Best Polk Subwoofer to complement LSiM703 for Music?
Options
On the heels of the Ebay fiasco with the LSiM703's through a non-authorized dealer, I'm shopping a set of LSiM703's through the authorized dealer network. Crutchfield is closest to me for fastest shipping. They're also offering a $299 subwoofer credit with qualifying purchases, so I'm considering picking up a sub to go with the speakers.
I was originally planning on holding off on a sub and considering options by HSU or SVS, but am thinking that I should take advantage of this offer, take the free one at the very least.
Any thoughts on which is the best model to complement a set of LSiM703's?
Do I only need one sub?
Or should I just take the free PSW110 (8" - 150w) or PSW111 (10" - 100w) sub, and buy something else to go with the speakers?
I was originally planning on holding off on a sub and considering options by HSU or SVS, but am thinking that I should take advantage of this offer, take the free one at the very least.
Any thoughts on which is the best model to complement a set of LSiM703's?
Do I only need one sub?
Or should I just take the free PSW110 (8" - 150w) or PSW111 (10" - 100w) sub, and buy something else to go with the speakers?
I disabled signatures.
Post edited by msg on
Comments
-
Good question. I wish I had the answer. I got a similar deal when buying one of my 703s, and ended up choosing the 111. It's still new in box in storage, along with a pair of LSi7s. I figure I'll set up a snazzy little 2.1 system with those some day. So, I don't know which one you should choose. Hopefully someone here has some experience with these subs and can suggest the best match.
Two Channel Setup:
Speakers: Wharfedale Opus 2-3
Integrated Amp: Krell S-300i
DAC: Arcam irDac
Source: iMac
Remote Control: iPad Mini
3.2 Home Theater Setup:
Fronts: Klipsch RP-160M
Center: Klipsch RP-160M
Subwoofer: SVS PB12NSD (X 2)
AVR: Yamaha Aventage RX-A2030
Blu Ray: Sony BDP-S790
TV Source: DirecTV Genie -
I think that even with that $300 credit, you're going to be hard pressed to find something for less than a good HSU or SVS that would beat them.
You could take the free sub, sell it, and put the dough towards a good ID sub.Display: LG 47" LCD | AVR: Marantz SR5005 | BD: Panasonic BDT-210 | CD/SACD: Oppo 980 |
Amps: Rotel RB-990bx | Marantz MA-500 | Speakers: Totem Mite : Totem Mite-C : RC60i | Sub: HSU VTF-2 MKIV
HK AVR635 | Polk R30 | Sony DVD/SACD Player -
yeah, that's what I'm thinking, or use it with a smaller system in a bedroom or something.
Crutchfield is currently out of stock on the Mahogany LSiM703, unfortunately. curses.I disabled signatures. -
PS. - yeah! that'd make a sweet little 2.1! garage, workshop, computer room, reading room, or any secondary space, since you've already got a regular setup.Loud & Clear wrote: »Good question. I wish I had the answer. I got a similar deal when buying one of my 703s, and ended up choosing the 111. It's still new in box in storage, along with a pair of LSi7s. I figure I'll set up a snazzy little 2.1 system with those some day. So, I don't know which one you should choose. Hopefully someone here has some experience with these subs and can suggest the best match.
Of course, LSi7's don't need to be relegated to a little/secondary setup, apparentlyI disabled signatures. -
yeah, that's what I'm thinking, or use it with a smaller system in a bedroom or something.
Crutchfield is currently out of stock on the Mahogany LSiM703, unfortunately. curses.
IMO, go for the best value for the money....2.2 Office Setup | LG 29UB55 21:9 UltraWide | HP Probook 630 G8 | Dell Latitude | Cabasse Stream Amp 100 | Boston Acoustics VS 240 | AUDIORAX Desk Stands | Mirage Omni S8 sub1 | Mirage Omni S8 Sub2 -
yeah, thanks man, I checked the Ebay store for the refurbs after the fact, but they didn't have them in stock in the color I wanted. at this point I think I'm just gonna keep the ones that came from Ebay. haven't opened 'em yet, though, but by the time I pay for the shipping charges, I'm gonna be out $100 minimum, and that's if I can negotiate the restock fee. so that puts a set of the refurbs at ~$1400 ($1280 + ~$40 sales tax + $100). I think I'm gonna suck it up, take my punches on this one, and take the risk.
Have you done any of the DIY stuff?!? (I see in your sig that you're thinking about it?) I'm really curious about these kits. they look super fun! I replaced a sub in an old set of Boston Acoustic computer speakers with a piece from Parts Express - a nice 4" woofer - but it didn't turn out very well; muddy; needs a crossover I imagine. anyway, yeah, I kinda want to build a set but I wonder how they'd sound. I signed up over on Parts Express's website a few days ago and plan to do some lurking in the speaker building threads. I need to learn how to solder better - I totally suck at it.
Thanks for the recommendations on the subs! I was considering HSU or SVS. I'll check out Outlaw, too.
And then Crutchfield was offering $300 allowances toward Polk subs on qualifying $500 purchases, but again, were out of stock on the 703's in the color I wanted. I was reading that Polk subs weren't the best choices anyway, but was gonna take one if they were giving them away.
Hey, how do those RT3000's sound? are they good for music? more importantly, how did you come into them?!?I disabled signatures. -
Amazon has the 505 powered sub.Lots of bang for the money.
-
Amazon has the 505 powered sub.Lots of bang for the money.I disabled signatures.
-
I would not get the 505 for LSIM's, especially for music. The 505 is geared more towards the HT side. Look at the dsw or micropro lines of Polk subs if your dead set on a sub from Polk.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
I was remembering that someone said the 505 was a little slow? what does this mean?
not deadset on a sub from Polk, but was considering if could be had affordably.I disabled signatures. -
I was remembering that someone said the 505 was a little slow? what does this mean?
not deadset on a sub from Polk, but was considering if could be had affordably.
You're buying Polks flagship speakers. I'd look outside of Polk for your sub. Their lower offerings are marginal at best and the better models can easily be bested by the competition, especially ID. Give us an idea of what you consider "affordable" as well as other details regarding your listening habits, room size, etc. We'll be happy to help spend your $$. -
703's don't really need a sub, but mp 1k does mate up wellMy New Year's resolution is 3840 × 2160
Family Room| Marantz AV7704| Usher Dancer Mini - 2 DMD Mains |Usher Dancer Mini-x DMD's Surrounds | Usher BE-616 DMD Center | SVS Ultra Rear Surrounds | Parasound Halo A21 | Parsound Halo A52+ | MIT Shotgun S3's | Dual SVS SB 4000 Ultras | Oppo UDP 203 | Directv Genie HD DVR | Samsung 75" Q8 QLED | PSAudio Stellar GCD | Mytek Brooklyn DAC+ | Lumin U1 Mini | HP Elite Slice PC | ROON'd for life |
ManCave: HT:Polk LSiM 706VR3 LSiM 703's LSiM 702's|| Marantz AV7002 AV PrePro Sunfire TGA-7401| Sony PS4 Pro| Sony PS4 Pro|SVS PB13 Ultra| Oppo UDP 203 | Music Hall MMF 5.3se TT w/ Soundsmith Carmen | Samsung 55" SUHD TV | Sony PS4
Patio | Polk Atrium 8's | Yamaha R-N303BL |
Office BlueSound Node| KEF LS50 | Peactree Nova 125SE |
Bedroom | Focal 905's | Chromecast Audio |
Garage | Polk Monitor 5B's
Closet Yamaha M80 | 2 Polk MP3K subs| Yaqin MC100B with Shuguang Treasures KT 88's & CV181Z's | Tesla E83CC's | Marantz 2252B | Marantz 2385 |Polk SDA SRS 2.3 | LSiM 705's | -
ID subs will still give you a better value than the discount you have. How big is your room? Openings to other areas? Listening preferences? Loud, HT, music? Room dimensions? Whether you need just one sub will vary on a number of factors, such as how smooth a response you want over a certain area. The larger area to have "good" bass, typically you would need more subs to smooth in room response. Based on the area you're trying to fill will factor into how many subs you need and of course the efficiency of the sub. Do you want to EQ the sub? More subs will fill in peaks and nulls so less EQ is needed.2Ch Tube Audio Convert
-
For music I like a good sealed sub.
I love my Velodyne subs. Very quick and tight with lots of slam still when it's needed. -
ken brydson wrote: »You're buying Polks flagship speakers. I'd look outside of Polk for your sub. Their lower offerings are marginal at best and the better models can easily be bested by the competition, especially ID. Give us an idea of what you consider "affordable" as well as other details regarding your listening habits, room size, etc. We'll be happy to help spend your $$.
-
Polkie2009 wrote: »Ken hit the nail on the head, honestly, you're going to have to spend some money( $1000 and up, unless you make your own) to get a really decent subwoofer to go with your Polk speakers.
I'm a big SVS fan and they have some offerings below $1K that would work well depending on his room size... -
I was remembering that someone said the 505 was a little slow? what does this mean?
not deadset on a sub from Polk, but was considering if could be had affordably.
Means it's not as snappy as it could be for music. LSIM's are Polks best, why mate up their lower tiered subwoofers ? I get the affordable aspect, but that isn't the best match for the speakers. If you can't afford a decent sub now, don't just buy one to buy one, save your money and buy a good one that will compliment the speakers.HT SYSTEM-
Sony 850c 4k
Pioneer elite vhx 21
Sony 4k BRP
SVS SB-2000
Polk Sig. 20's
Polk FX500 surrounds
Cables-
Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable
Kitchen
Sonos zp90
Grant Fidelity tube dac
B&k 1420
lsi 9's -
Means it's not as snappy as it could be for music. LSIM's are Polks best, why mate up their lower tiered subwoofers ? I get the affordable aspect, but that isn't the best match for the speakers. If you can't afford a decent sub now, don't just buy one to buy one, save your money and buy a good one that will compliment the speakers.
Best advise so far and could be applied to many recent threads. The "gottahaveitnow" mindset will cost in the long run... -
I'll admit, I went down this path early on buying 2 old used M&K subs on fleabay for about 100.00 each. They sounded decent for music but just didn't have enough power or speakers to fill a room of over 4000 cu.ft with slamming HT bass. After about a year, I decided to upgrade and spend about $1800 on 2 Epik Empire subs, bought a Antimode 8033S from one of our awesome fellow polkies here for about 425.00 and now I have some nice bass.
-
Twin LMS Ultras and a Crown iTech 12000HD- Computer Rig -
YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5
- Main Rig -
Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD
- Currently In Progress -
Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf -
but really, if you want a good sub, Polk probably isn't the brand to be looking at.- Computer Rig -
YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5
- Main Rig -
Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD
- Currently In Progress -
Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf -
but really, if you want a good sub, Polk probably isn't the brand to be looking at.
There he is! Jim knows what he's talking about, look outside of Polk. Velo, SVS, outlaw, HSU, JL, just to name a few. The best Polk sub is none for the LSiM's. Take your time with this decision, don't be afraid to run the speakers for a month or more before you get a sub to get a good ear on them. Good luck! -
On a serious note, the 703s don't need a subwoofer, but certainly benefit from one. I had an extensive amount of time with one of the proto sets and wrote this review on them. They're a high-caliber speaker to say the least. That being said, you've really gotten some rock solid advice in this thread. If you do buy from Crutchfield, pick up the nicest sub you can for $300, and throw it on a computer system or something of the sort, or sell it on ebay or CL.
Otherwise, Polk Direct is your next best bet. The brands of subwoofers that have been recommended are all big-time in the bass industry. You won't be disappointed with anything from Velodyne, SVS, Outlaw, HSU, or JL. A less-mentioned brand is Rhythmik, and if tight bass is your thing they're someone to definitely look into. Personally, I've gone to the dark side where everything is completely DIY, and built everything instead of buying prefab. That may be more than you wanna take on, which is totally okay. Take your time, listen to whats out there, then pull the trigger. Rushing into audio purchases tends to leave you with gear that doesn't quite hit the spot for you, and costs you more in the long run.
More importantly, what comprises the rest of your system?- Computer Rig -
YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5
- Main Rig -
Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD
- Currently In Progress -
Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf -
I would not get the 505 for LSIM's, especially for music. The 505 is geared more towards the HT side. Look at the dsw or micropro lines of Polk subs if your dead set on a sub from Polk.
^^^^Exactly^^^^Tonyb took it out of my mouth and posted it (lol) The 505 are cool for HT. I had 2 of the Micro pro subs....the 2000 and 3000. The 3000 was a good musical sub.
Shoot the psw 111 wasn't really too bad for music, Loud & Clear got a nice little 2.1 set up waiting to happenMain Rig:
Antipodes DX > Roon > PS Audio Directstream Jr.>deHavilland Ultraverve 3 >Belles Reference 150a >Harbeth C7 ES3
Second Rig:
Roon> PS Audio Directstream Jr Bridge II > EE Minimax pre (Tutay mods) >Belles 150A Ref >Monitor 5 (Westmassguy-modded) -
I purchased 703s for the downstairs system and left my 2 MicroPro 3000s with them instead of moving the subs upstairs with the RTI A9s. i was looking for a sub(s) for the A9s, but now wondering if HSUs, SVS, etc are significantly better choices for the 703s than the MicorPro 3000s.