speaker jumpers

kawizx9r

kawizx9r wrote: »

superjunior wrote: »

ok so the speaker cable would be plugged into the binding post where the jumper cable arrows begin correct?

See how my jumpers are?

Ok well let's say they're directional. Since I have them going from the bottom posts to the top posts the arrows will be pointing torwards the top post. It'd be reversed if you had your speaker cable coming from your amp going to your top posts....if that makes any sense.

superjunior

got it, thanks Freddy

gp4jesus

F1nut wrote: »

Your theory would be incorrect. Polk has a price point to meet as do all other speaker companies. The plates are cheap and plentiful.

Upgrading the caps and resistors in your speakers will also result in improved sound. Of course, Polk could use the better parts, but you'd pay a lot more for the speakers.

Advise me on the details (caps and resistors) for RTi A* series speakers-I'ma tweekaholic. I've seen this mentioned in other threads-been too busy to ask about specifics.
* A5s, A1s, CSi A6 center;

thanx tony

dskinner612

How are MIT 2 cables for Polk RtI 10 and 8`s? anyone know.
What about canare 4s11? thanks
Audio stream?

sTiLlLeArNiNg

dskinner612 wrote: »

What about canare 4s11?

I run 4s11, work's great! a lil' heat shrink and some techflex and you got yourself a set of $1,000,000,000,000,000,000,000.00 cable's

Best way to do it IMHO. Quick & easy to make plus they'll cost ya less than a 12 pack of frosties I noticed quite an improvement when i made the switch

lightman1

Cables don't make a difference.....









if you're deaf or a complete idiot.

packetjones

This thread has sparked my interest. I am currently using bananas to connect the speakers. Would i just cut a small piece of wire and connect the 2 binding posts, then plug in the bananas? Would I insert the jumper replacement into the normal wire hole and screw it down tight?

Thanks for the help. this seems like a really simple tweak and would like to see if it makes a difference at all.

-edit-
Also i have the A5's and A3's. Should I connect the bananas to the top or bottom does it matter? Currently I have it on bottom since i did not think it mattered.

F1nut

Would i just cut a small piece of wire and connect the 2 binding posts, then plug in the bananas? Would I insert the jumper replacement into the normal wire hole and screw it down tight?

Yes.

Should I connect the bananas to the top or bottom does it matter?

Makes no difference.

packetjones

Thanks for the quick response. Should i expect an improvement over the jumpers if i am just using some cheap speaker cable that i have laying around.

Looks like i will be doing this and adding spikes this evening. Woohoo for cheap tweaks!!

F1nut

Trust your ears.

sTiLlLeArNiNg

packetjones wrote: »

Thanks for the quick response. Should i expect an improvement over the jumpers if i am just using some cheap speaker cable that i have laying around.

Looks like i will be doing this and adding spikes this evening. Woohoo for cheap tweaks!!

When i first did this i was only running 16g Rocketfish junk from FS and the difference was night/day!

DForeman

Hooked up jumpers to front speakers this past weekend - noticed quite an improvement. Wish I had done this sooner.

Am planning to do the same for center and back speakers now.

(Signal Ultra speaker cables with Signal jumpers)

sTiLlLeArNiNg

DForeman wrote: »

Hooked up jumpers to front speakers this past weekend - noticed quite an improvement. Wish I had done this sooner.

Am planning to do the same for center and back speakers now.

(Signal Ultra speaker cables with Signal jumpers)

SWEET! I had all my speaker's setup like that before, now i "bi-wire". You don't need high end stuff to get 'er done but if ya got it, you may as well use it

flyfisher

Lasareath wrote: »

I have MIT speaker cables and I'm sure that jumpers from them are not going to be inexpensive.

I guess before I buy from them I can just make up my own with some spare speaker wire and some spades.

But I don't want to use spades because I can never get them to stay on. I'm using Bananas for my Shotguns so I can't do that. What are the spades called with the closed end, the ones with a circle in the middle?

Sal,did you mean ring terminals? http://www.parts-express.com/wizards/searchResults.cfm?srchExt=CAT&srchCat=402&CFID=4350410&CFTOKEN=26830913

Face

Sal, pick up the larger Vampire spades from Sonic Craft, they're copper based so they won't degrade sound quality. I'm sure you can find a way for them to stay on.

Face

You're using Cardas posts, correct? This will solve your problem: http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-binding-post-wrench-double/dp/B0009XQUAM

PiG

This is all very interesting. I recently stumbled upon this. I have a couple of questions as I'm planning to go the DIY route.

To get rid of the brass plate could I do either of the following:

1) Could I piggyback a closed screw banana plug on to the back of an open screw banana plug (where the speaker wire from the receiver is connected through the side) to make a jumper which would obviously have the other end of the DIY jumper plug straight into the back of the second post via another closed screw banana plug?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2943&seq=1&format=2

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10401&cs_id=1040115&p_id=2801&seq=1&format=2

(apologies if I can't post those links, only posted for clarity of open/closed screw banana plugs.)

2) How about using quad cable like the canare 4s11 where I would plug each inner strand to the four posts at the speaker end and then twist pairs of wires at the receiver end (basically making two 11AWG strands). Would this somehow degrade the signal since it's later split back to 4 strands of 12AWG? I'm thinking not but perhaps there's something simple I'm overlooking.

Thanks!

Face

PiG wrote: »

2) How about using quad cable like the canare 4s11 where I would plug each inner strand to the four posts at the speaker end and then twist pairs of wires at the receiver end (basically making two 11AWG strands). Would this somehow degrade the signal since it's later split back to 4 strands of 12AWG? I'm thinking not but perhaps there's something simple I'm overlooking.

Thanks!

This is what I would do. But, avoid Monoprice nanners, IMO they degrade sound quality due to their high brass content. Look for gold plated copper spades or a gold plated nanner with high copper content(Vampire, WBT, etc...).

PiG

Face wrote: »

This is what I would do. But, avoid Monoprice nanners, IMO they degrade sound quality due to their high brass content. Look for gold plated copper spades or a gold plated nanner with high copper content(Vampire, WBT, etc...).

Nanners = banana plug ? If so, they claimed to be copper construction, which is why I was looking at them. Marketing hype perhaps?

Face

I can promise you they're not pure copper, they'd be priced MUCH higher. It's an alloy with a small percentage of copper.

PiG

Face wrote: »

I can promise you they're not pure copper, they'd be priced MUCH higher. It's an alloy with a small percentage of copper.

Damn marketers... thanks for the heads up!

PiG

PiG wrote: »

Damn marketers... thanks for the heads up!

I checked out the WBT's WOW you weren't kidding about much more expensive... at the most basic level of wiring a 5.1 system were talking between $720 and $1000+ (not incl. tax and shipping and crimp tools) for 20 plugs. WOW!


This hurts I might have to go with the el chepo variety afterall

Bare wire isn't that bad... is it? :0

Face

Vampire's connectors(spades, nanners, etc...) are currently 20% off at Sonic Craft: http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections.htm

wolfman1138

OK, I have a question. After all the talk of speaker jumpers vs. plates and wire gauge, got me thinking. What gauge is the wire inside the speaker that Polk used? How does this compare with the plates?
It occurs to me that we are spending tons of cash on cables and connectors, etc and we are only going to achieve minimal gains.
Kind of like putting a bigger engine and better wheels on a car and still using a broom handle for the drive shaft.

Has anyone replaced the wiring inside the speaker?

62caddy

wolfman1138 wrote: »

OK, I have a question. After all the talk of speaker jumpers vs. plates and wire gauge, got me thinking. What gauge is the wire inside the speaker that Polk used? How does this compare with the plates?
It occurs to me that we are spending tons of cash on cables and connectors, etc and we are only going to achieve minimal gains.
Kind of like putting a bigger engine and better wheels on a car and still using a broom handle for the drive shaft.

Has anyone replaced the wiring inside the speaker?

You have it the nail on the head- IMHO.

I've no wish to question anyone's judgement who opts to change out their jumpers in favor of something else. By the same token I would hope the same courtesy be extended to those who choose not to go that route.

tonyb

It's not about the jumpers per say, but improving everything in the chain for a better signal flow. Brass is not the optimal for signal flow. Will it work ? Sure, can you do better ? Yep. Some have indeed changed internal wiring for better quality wire but to me thats a tad over the top. Improvements with changing out jumpers, cables, etc, are small subtle changes on their own, but when you add up all the small changes, you can hear real world differences.

With that said, most who change out those brass jumpers probably won't hear a difference. It's that minimal. Over time and oxidation, the signal will degrade some. So the standard answer applies, if you don't try, you'll never know. Simple as that really.

PiG

wolfman1138 wrote: »

OK, I have a question. After all the talk of speaker jumpers vs. plates and wire gauge, got me thinking. What gauge is the wire inside the speaker that Polk used? How does this compare with the plates?
It occurs to me that we are spending tons of cash on cables and connectors, etc and we are only going to achieve minimal gains.
Kind of like putting a bigger engine and better wheels on a car and still using a broom handle for the drive shaft.

Has anyone replaced the wiring inside the speaker?

I've seen other threads where someone has done or suggested that they would do this... It's a little out of my league right now so I won't be doing it.

Your point is well taken.

PiG

62caddy wrote: »

You have it the nail on the head- IMHO.

I've no wish to question anyone's judgement who opts to change out their jumpers in favor of something else. By the same token I would hope the same courtesy be extended to those who choose not to go that route.

Yeah, I was very interested in trying this as a no hassle cheap fix to MAYBE get some improved sound but it seems that there are so many variables that when you try to do it "right" its no longer cheap... so I might try it with cheapo plugs or bare wire but then of course, if you don't hear any differences you blame the lack of quality components... bit of a lose lose situation IMO

tonyb

Pig,
Most just use bare wire, extra speaker wire they have laying around, so the cost is zero, with nothing to lose and everything to gain, sounds more like a win-win scenario to me.

Face

I'll take bare wire over cheap connectors any day.