Question about my breaker panel for adding a dedicated line

tcrossma
tcrossma Posts: 1,301
edited January 2009 in Electronics
I want to add a new dedicated outlet or two for my system, so I popped off the cover to the breaker panel to see what was available in there.

At the top of the right leg is the 100amp "main" breaker. Directly across from that on the left leg is two empty spaces. The rest of the panel is full.

Can I use those two empty spaces? It just seemed odd to me that they weren't already being used and given that they are directly across from the main breaker at the top I figured maybe they couldn't be used for some reason?

Anybody know? I could take a picture if necessary.

Thanks.
Speakers: Polk LSi15
Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
Amp: Pass Labs X-150
CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
Cartridge:Denon DL-160
Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
Post edited by tcrossma on

Comments

  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited January 2009
    A pic would be good.
    You can also replace an existing breaker with a double slim (not sure what they're called) but it puts two breakers in the same space as one.
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  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited January 2009
    Like this-replace one of these
    782113101644.jpg

    with one of these (two poles but they're not tied together like in a 220V dbl pole breaker)
    f0597e12-ab12-4d38-b195-c1f73489d84e_400.jpg

    Of course you would only use like brands and the proper replacement for your panel (those are the only images I could quickly find.
    You'll also need to ensure that you're panel isn't already maxed out (i.e. talk to an electrician)
    ____________________
    This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.

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    Pool: Atrium 60's/45's
  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2009
    Thanks, I'll try and post a picture later. I'd like to just use the open slots if possible.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited January 2009
    This all depends on how many amps you are currently running on the entire panel. "just because there are checks in the checkbook doesn't mean there is money in the bank account"....hehehe
    TNRabbit
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  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2009
    TNRabbit wrote: »
    This all depends on how many amps you are currently running on the entire panel. "just because there are checks in the checkbook doesn't mean there is money in the bank account"....hehehe

    Yeah, but just because the speedometer in my car goes to 125 doesn't mean I'll get a ticket for going 25 either. ;)

    Of course if I add up all breakers the total far exceeds 100 amps, but I don't think my normal house draw exceeds the limit. Nor have I ever tripped the main breaker. And I've been running my audio gear on the exist lines and haven't even tripped the breaker it's currently on. I'll not really be adding any additional load to my house, I just want to ensure good, clean power to my equipment.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited January 2009
    Sounds like it might be a subpanel-type setup. Is there an outside breaker at the box w/ some breakers for things like AC and the stove?

    Anyhow, put up a pic, but you're probably fine. As for the breaker values exceeding the main value, that's not a problem.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
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  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited January 2009
    tcrossma wrote: »
    I want to add a new dedicated outlet or two for my system, so I popped off the cover to the breaker panel to see what was available in there.

    At the top of the right leg is the 100amp "main" breaker. Directly across from that on the left leg is two empty spaces. The rest of the panel is full.

    Another option is upgrading to a 200amp panel. I did that over the summer, and it really stabilzed the power. Now the voltmeter on the power conditioner stays at a solid 124 volts, while before it would fluctuate. Other obvious improvements are the kitchen lights do not slightly dim when the coffee pot heater kicks on.

    With the upgrade, and the half-size breakers, there is more than enough room to add seperate circuits for every wall outlet in the house. Like you, at some point I would like to add a dedicated line for the HT equipment, and a line for the living room system.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
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  • johnny42
    johnny42 Posts: 32
    edited January 2009
    Good idea replace an existing breaker with a slim line breaker or breakers. I would pop out a breaker and take it to HD or an electrical supply to match it up to your panel. As for the load your system is drawing off the panel now, adding a dedicated line, it's still drawing of the same panel. A dedicated line also means a dedicated neutral. Your system won't be mixed in with other stuff ( noise ) returning to the panel on the neutral.
  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited January 2009
    100amps is a very low amperage service for todays homes, is yours an old house? The norm nowadays is 200amps or more, if you've got two spaces in your panel, you should be able to install two separate 15 or 20amp breakers without having to use the more expensive "piggyback" type. While it's a bit of a pain in the a$$ to work with, I'd recommend using MC (metal clad) cable because the cladding provides a shield against radio frequencies etc. and is ground linked to the panel and connected ground rod. If you've got a lot of heavy draw appliances-AC,furnace,water heater,elect. stove or others, you might want to consider a "heavy up" and go to a 200amp service and panel, I prefer Cutler Hammer myself but Square D is good too as long as you don't get their cheapie Home Line stuff. BE CAREFUL and good luck!!:)
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2009
    mmadden28 wrote: »
    Like this-replace one of these
    782113101644.jpg

    with one of these (two poles but they're not tied together like in a 220V dbl pole breaker)
    f0597e12-ab12-4d38-b195-c1f73489d84e_400.jpg

    Of course you would only use like brands and the proper replacement for your panel (those are the only images I could quickly find.
    You'll also need to ensure that you're panel isn't already maxed out (i.e. talk to an electrician)



    Caution of using double breakers like that above, breaker in which you are splitting one leg of AC. Using a breaker like this you need to run 2 wire runs 1 for each outlet. Using a 12/3 cable where you can share the neutral would overload the neutral as you have the same phase on each feed doubling the current on that wire. A quad breaker would be a better choice where you're replacing 2 single breaks with 1 quad double breaker this allows 2 phases on wiring splitting the neutral current. A breaker like this would allow the 12/3 wire to be used.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
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  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited January 2009
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    Caution of using double breakers like that above, breaker in which you are splitting one leg of AC. Using a breaker like this you need to run 2 wire runs 1 for each outlet. Using a 12/3 cable where you can share the neutral would overload the neutral as you have the same phase on each feed doubling the current on that wire. A quad breaker would be a better choice where you're replacing 2 single breaks with 1 quad double breaker this allows 2 phases on wiring splitting the neutral current. A breaker like this would allow the 12/3 wire to be used.

    Good point. DJ. I remember I was considering doing that-just using a slim dbl. Just don't put both of the hots of the 12/3 on the same dbl slim/phase breaker. Actualy, when I ran my 2 dedicated circuits with 10/3, I used a regular dbl pole breaker (usu for 220v) which put each circuit on separate legs. And in that case the neutral overload DJ mentioned above would not be an issue.
    I used dbl slims in my setup to simply free up space on my panel (replacing other separate circuits) so I could fit the reg dbl pole somewhere. I did not use the dbl slims for my new dedicated circuits that were on the same 12/3 run.
    ____________________
    This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.

    HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
    2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
    Pool: Atrium 60's/45's
  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2009
    gdb wrote: »
    100amps is a very low amperage service for todays homes, is yours an old house? The norm nowadays is 200amps or more, if you've got two spaces in your panel, you should be able to install two separate 15 or 20amp breakers without having to use the more expensive "piggyback" type. While it's a bit of a pain in the a$$ to work with, I'd recommend using MC (metal clad) cable because the cladding provides a shield against radio frequencies etc. and is ground linked to the panel and connected ground rod. If you've got a lot of heavy draw appliances-AC,furnace,water heater,elect. stove or others, you might want to consider a "heavy up" and go to a 200amp service and panel, I prefer Cutler Hammer myself but Square D is good too as long as you don't get their cheapie Home Line stuff. BE CAREFUL and good luck!!:)

    House was built in '85. 100 amp service seems pretty common around here for some reason. I do have A/C, but we have a gas furnace, water heater, dryer and cooktop.

    I would love 200 amp service just for the piece of mind, but I *think* 100 amp is adequate for the house.

    Thanks for all the help guys. I still have to get that picture taken and uploaded to make sure those free spaces can be used, and I'll do that later today.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2009
    Here's a couple pics of the panel. Main question is whether those two empty spots to the left of the main 100a breaker can be used. I think they can, but it just struck me as odd that they were left blank in the first place...

    Thanks!
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2009
    I take it that is a sub panel of a main panel. The main panel maybe where your meter is there properly a main breaker also over there. If not that panel isn't wired right IMHO. But I think those 2 open breakers are ok to use. A normal main panel should been using the large screws terminal for the feed, yours is feed like a breaker.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2009
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    I take it that is a sub panel of a main panel. The main panel maybe where your meter is there properly a main breaker also over there. If not that panel isn't wired right IMHO. But I think those 2 open breakers are ok to use. A normal main panel should been using the large screws terminal for the feed, yours is feed like a breaker.

    This is my one and only main panel. Those 2 big wires coming into the 100amp breaker at the top are coming right in from the outside -- directly above this panel.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2009
    Ok I don't see a problem using those 2 open spaces, but if you're uncomfortable about those 2 spaces you could go with a quad breaker. Removing 2 breakers below the main 100 amp breaker to add a quad or 4 breakers there. The 2 20 amp breaker just below the main breaker that’s where you could add a quad 4 20 amp breaker. Doing it this way wire the 2 new 20's in the middle of the quad. Never the top 2 or the bottom 2 breakers using the same neutral. If metered the voltage to the outlets are 120vac but 240vac if messured by the 2 hot leads.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited January 2009
    DJ, is that a quad 15 at the bottom right of his panel?
    ____________________
    This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.

    HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
    2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
    Pool: Atrium 60's/45's
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2009
    mmadden28 wrote: »
    DJ, is that a quad 15 at the bottom right of his panel?

    Yes it is, and I question the way its wired as it looks as the black and white is used for feeds so the neutral must be ground. But more important that the both blacks look like they are using the upper 2 where the lower white are using the lower 2. Not sure what this is powering but for sure you shouldn't do a 12/3 or 10/3 cable like that, where you need to outer 2 or the middle 2 for proper load on the neutral. As 2 20 amps draw would add to 40 amp on neutral if on the same phase, but cancel each other if on phase A and phase B*.

    BTW I question now why they put a quad in where they seem to be able to add 2 singles next to the main breaker for less money. As quad breaker are a bit pricey, over doubles or single breakers. Perhaps you need to do a quad also.

    * Not really phases I know but to clarify this message.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2009
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    Yes it is, and I question the way its wired as it looks as the black and white is used for feeds so the neutral must be ground. But more important that the both blacks look like they are using the upper 2 where the lower white are using the lower 2. Not sure what this is powering but for sure you shouldn't do a 12/3 or 10/3 cable like that, where you need to outer 2 or the middle 2 for proper load on the neutral. As 2 20 amps draw would add to 40 amp on neutral if on the same phase, but cancel each other if on phase A and phase B*.

    BTW I question now why they put a quad in where they seem to be able to add 2 singles next to the main breaker for less money. As quad breaker are a bit pricey, over doubles or single breakers. Perhaps you need to do a quad also.

    * Not really phases I know but to clarify this message.

    I believe this is for my central air system. It was installed maybe 10 years ago (well after the house was built). I bought the house a couple years ago, so none of this is my doing...
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2009
    I didn't think you did it, but its the first time I seen a panel and questioned it. ;)

    I going to take a guess here the 50 double is for the compressor outside where one of those 15 double of quad is for the fan inside. The other 50 amp for a stove or clothes dryer, the 30 amp double for Hot Water?

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2009
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    I didn't think you did it, but its the first time I seen a panel and questioned it. ;)

    I going to take a guess here the 50 double is for the compressor outside where one of those 15 double of quad is for the fan inside. The other 50 amp for a stove or clothes dryer, the 30 amp double for Hot Water?

    We have:

    - double wall oven
    - built-in refrigerator
    - central A/C
    - gas water heater
    - gas furnace
    - gas dryer
    - washing machine

    These are the only big items that I can think of in the house.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited January 2009
    disneyjoe7 wrote: »
    Yes it is, and I question the way its wired as it looks as the black and white is used for feeds so the neutral must be ground. But more important that the both blacks look like they are using the upper 2 where the lower white are using the lower 2. Not sure what this is powering but for sure you shouldn't do a 12/3 or 10/3 cable like that, where you need to outer 2 or the middle 2 for proper load on the neutral. As 2 20 amps draw would add to 40 amp on neutral if on the same phase, but cancel each other if on phase A and phase B*.

    BTW I question now why they put a quad in where they seem to be able to add 2 singles next to the main breaker for less money. As quad breaker are a bit pricey, over doubles or single breakers. Perhaps you need to do a quad also.

    * Not really phases I know but to clarify this message.



    OK 15 Min's later and I wish I could edit this message, because I FU*KING WRONG I'M THE IDIOT :rolleyes:


    The whites together with the black together is right, I'm wrong. Back at the equipment where ever it goes the Black and White have 240vac on them. Look at what I posted where the outer 2 wires are different the middle 2 are different (that's right, but a quick look by me I think different) Mind is just about 20 Min's behind fingers nice I like the no edit thing on this forum, love the people hate the politics.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
    Pioneer 79Avi DVD
    Sony CX400 CD changer
    Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
    WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR


  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2009
    Thanks for all the help, I'm going to try using those 2 empty spots for my new dedicated lines. If that fails for any reason, I'll do a quad breaker or something.

    Thanks again.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • djseafood
    djseafood Posts: 73
    edited January 2009
    I agree that it looks like the two spots opposite the 100 amp main should work fine. As you can see, each phase of the main breaker is split so one feeds the right side of the panel and the other the left.

    Not sure of your experience level in this realm, so I just have to say be very careful in there! And remember that even when you turn the main 100 amp breaker off those two big wires feeding into it will still be hot unless you have your power company come by and disconnect your meter!

    Since you're going to the trouble, I'd run 12 gauge 20 amp circuits. If you ever upgrade your panel you'll have all the juice you need. It seems like everything in your house runs fine on your 100 amp service even with your equipment. Just like a power strip, you can plug in as many devices as you want or put as many breakers in as you want, but you just can't run them all at the same time.

    You may have trouble finding those old Gould breakers though.
    HT
    Receiver: Onkyo TX-SR506
    FR: Polk Monitor 40
    CNTR: Polk CS2
    Sub: Polk PSW505
    RR: Infinity SS2001 w/ SpeakerCraft 5.25" aluminum woofers and 1.5" ports
    Patio: Polk Atrium 45
    TV: Sony Bravia KDL-46XBR9
    BD: Sony BDP-S570
    Gaming: PS2 and Wii
    PWR: APC C-5


    Work
    Receiver: h/k AVR 20
    CD: marantz Professional PMD320
    Mains: Infinity SS2005
    2nds: DLK 1 1/2's
    CNTR: Infinity Sterling Video

    Subs: Paradigm PS-1000 w/ beefed up power circuit resistors and custom 15" w/ Polk PSW-505 amp.
  • tcrossma
    tcrossma Posts: 1,301
    edited January 2009
    djseafood wrote: »
    Not sure of your experience level in this realm, so I just have to say be very careful in there! And remember that even when you turn the main 100 amp breaker off those two big wires feeding into it will still be hot unless you have your power company come by and disconnect your meter!

    My experience is such that I know enough not to do work in the panel. I'll run the lines and install the plugs and then have a friend of mine do the panel work.
    Since you're going to the trouble, I'd run 12 gauge 20 amp circuits. If you ever upgrade your panel you'll have all the juice you need. It seems like everything in your house runs fine on your 100 amp service even with your equipment. Just like a power strip, you can plug in as many devices as you want or put as many breakers in as you want, but you just can't run them all at the same time.

    Yeah, I was planning to do two 20 amp's with 12/2
    You may have trouble finding those old Gould breakers though.

    Yeah, I was just starting to research that today. It looks like most of the existing breakers are ITE (who acquired Gould I believe). And now Siemens has acquired ITE. Do you have any tips on where or how to go about getting the breakers? I've never purchased any before...

    Thanks for the help!
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH