Speaker Burn In?

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skrol
skrol Posts: 3,340
edited October 2008 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
What method(s) are recommended for performing a speaker burn-in?
Thanks
Stan

Main 2ch:
Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

HT:
Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

Other stuff:
Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
Post edited by skrol on
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited October 2008
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    The best method I've used is a mixture of pink noise and classical music. Pink noise by nature covers all of the frequencies, and classical music does a good job of also covering a wide frequency. Plus, I like the dynamics that the classical music provides. The trick is just the leave the music or pink noise on for at least 100 hours straight. (The radio works really well for this)
    Jake
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited October 2008
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    Best method is no break in at all. Take em out of the box and start playing them. Eventually they'll tone out and you'll be happier with your speakers.

    I only break-in my speakers(only woofers) before testing their parameters.

    They're not susceptible to damage or anything, so just enjoy em and move on.
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,340
    edited October 2008
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    ShinAce wrote: »
    Best method is no break in at all. Take em out of the box and start playing them. Eventually they'll tone out and you'll be happier with your speakers.

    I only break-in my speakers(only woofers) before testing their parameters.

    They're not susceptible to damage or anything, so just enjoy em and move on.

    You are the 2nd person who has told me this. The first person used to design speaker systems and mentioned only breaking-in the woofers using 10Hz signal for some time period to condition the rubber surrounds, spider, etc and no need to break in the tweeters. I am sure that there are varied opinions for a topic of such controversy.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2008
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    Tweeters need burn in too. Use some dynamic music, and let them play. Stick them in a closet if need be, and just run them at a fairly high level for a while.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited October 2008
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    All speakers need to break-in the same before delivering consistent performance, even tweeters. The caps in the crossover need some time to shine as well.

    As a speaker builder, it doesn't do much good to mechanically condition a tweeter, since they don't use enclosures. The tweeter already has it's own 'airspace' to work with, so breaking it in and testing it won't change your design.

    I used a combination of music and high excursion 20 Hz sine waves with the woofer dangling from a rope. That way it's in the right position for testing later.
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,340
    edited October 2008
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    I have long been curious about the physics behind breaking-in (burning-in) things like capacitors, interconnects, and other non-mechanical components. Are there actually physical changes that take place?

    I can see where a designer would want to break-in a tweeter, not for designing the enclosure, but for tuning the crossover. It makes sense that you would want to tune based on the nominal tweeter sound characteristics.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • TouchOfEvil
    TouchOfEvil Posts: 967
    edited October 2008
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    What are you guys using for your break in sound source? Like i don't have a cd or anything with pink noise on it?
    I also can't put it on a station that doesn't come in as it will just pass em up til it finds one that works are do no sound at all if i stop it myself.
    Living Room Rig:D
    Rotel RSP-1069/Rotel RMB-1095/Rotel-1072/Polk lsI15's W/modded xoverW/DBsubs/Polk LsiC/lsI7's/Klipsch sub-12"the weak link"/DLP Mitsubishi 65"
    Xbox360/PS3/WII
    M.Br. setup:)
    Emotiva MMC-1/Rotel RMB-1075/Polk BlackStone TL350's/Velodyne SPL1000/Samsung 51" Plasma
    Computer Rig:
    Rotel RB1050/Tannoy DC4's/Klipsch RW-10d/ImodIpod/HK AVR230 for now....
    Headphones-Ultrasone-HFI780's w/LittleDot MK Vamp Portables Panasonic HJE-900's
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited October 2008
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    I use a computer running WinISD and a spare amp.
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited October 2008
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    ShinAce wrote: »
    I use a computer running WinISD and a spare amp.

    edit: why do we use such harsh terms to describe conditioning a brand new speaker. Break-in? Burn-in? I feel sorry for the drivers, they get a bad rap.
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  • markmarc
    markmarc Posts: 2,309
    edited October 2008
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    I'm a firm believer that good break-in requires play the widest possible frequency range. Classical music is excellent in this regard. I put monitors in a closet, hooked up to an old receiver and cd player. I throw a heavy blanket over them and let them play for a week, stopping once a day for an hour or two to let the cd motor rest.

    For towers, they are hooked up at the far end of the house with blankets over them and i let them play from bedtime to breakfast.

    In both cases I do try to crank them up every day for an hour to really flex the cones.
    Review Site_ (((AudioPursuit)))
    Founder/Publisher Affordable$$Audio 2006-13.
    Former Staff Member TONEAudio
    2 Ch. System
    Amplifiers: Parasound Halo P6 pre, Vista Audio i34, Peachtree amp500, Adcom GFP-565 GFA-535ii, 545ii, 555ii
    Digital: SimAudio HAD230 DAC, iMac 20in/Amarra,
    Speakers: Paradigm Performa F75, Magnepan .7, Totem Model 1's, ACI Emerald XL, Celestion Si Stands. Totem Dreamcatcher sub
    Analog: Technics SL-J2 w/Pickering 3000D, SimAudio LP5.3 phono pre
    Cable/Wires: Cardas, AudioArt, Shunyata Venom 3
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited October 2008
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    I use the Burninwave Generator which is freeware. It does White noise, Pink noise, Pure test tone, and Frequency sweep. Also, it has a auto "rest" function so that you can set a short break every so often during burn-in process if you want.

    http://www.burninwave.com/generator_dl.htm
    Jake
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited October 2008
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    zingo wrote: »
    I use the Burninwave Generator which is freeware. It does White noise, Pink noise, Pure test tone, and Frequency sweep. Also, it has a auto "rest" function so that you can set a short break every so often during burn-in process if you want.

    http://www.burninwave.com/generator_dl.htm

    Well that is a fun little program. You could really annoy the heck out of someone with that! I still prefer music with good dynamics;)
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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