Re capping 10's ?

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ajanzalone
ajanzalone Posts: 128
edited September 2008 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I would like to rebuild the electronics on my 30+ year old Polk monitor 10's

Do I but the parts from Polk Audio?
If not, what are best audiophile quality parts to do the Capacitors & Resistors ..... etc?

Anyone have a list of parts or know the best starting point?
I have no idea of parts or brand names that wold be best.

I left a voice mail message at Polk Audio 10 days ago, but never got a response or call back? :confused:

Thanks
Tony
Audio Research SP5 Preamp
Quad 405 Amp
Pioneer Elite DV-48AV -
Outlaw 950 preamp/processor
Polk Monitor 10's
Velodyne VRP 1200 Sub Woofer

Success is having what you want ... but Happiness is wanting what you have!
Post edited by ajanzalone on
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  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited September 2008
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    I would suggest that you pull the crossover,, identify the caps and resistors,,, then if it were me,,I'd call Jeff @ Sonicraft--good luck
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
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  • jon s
    jon s Posts: 905
    edited September 2008
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    First, you will need to determine exactly which Polk Monitor 10 you have... there were a few variants of the 10s over the years. You can find the schematics here.

    I'm guessing you have an original Monitor 10A (has a fuse on the rear binding plate). If so, you will need two 12uf and one 34uf capacitors and a 2.5 ohm 5 watt and a 2.7 ohm 5 watt resistor per speaker (if not, look at the schematics and try to match the values shown with yours).

    The general consensus is to replace them with Sonicap capacitors and Mills resistors. You can find both from Soniccraft. While a tad expensive, the end results are definitely worth your while. Note that Sonicraft does not list a 34uf value, but if you ask they will find one that will come as close as possible to that value. You could just go with the 33uf, the value will still be in spec.

    Also recommended is that you replace your current HF driver with a new cloth domed one (probably the RDO194) if you have one of the plastic domed tweeters (the SL1000/SL2000) as they tend to get brittle as they age which makes them harsh. They also have a 5dB peak at about 12kHz which exaggerates the high end.

    You can read about my upgrade here... Good luck.
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