1.2TL crossover rebuild/mods?

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awe-d-o-file
awe-d-o-file Posts: 146
edited July 2008 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I'm going to put on good binding posts and eventually redo/mod the crossovers. One weak point has to be the molex connectors so I plan to hard wire to the new board. I'm looking to see what others who have modded/redone their crossovers did and the results. Oh also my PR's are starting to rattle a tiny bit on loud very LF passages.(20-40hz) Is there a typical failure on these? Spider side? Surround side? Repairable or buy new ones? New ones available? Thanks in advance!


ET

System: MF Trivista SACD > Placette passive> CJ passive horizontal bi-amp> MF 2500A(LF) MF2100(HF) > 1.2TL's

Other: Speltz silver Eichmann IC's & speaker wire, Econotweaks Detail Magnifiers, PS Audio P-300(source), R. Gray 600, Al Sekala's AC R/C filters, R. Gray HT PC's, Oyaide R-1's,WPC-Z , M-1, Herbie's & DIY Isolation
Room: Qty 7 - 4' tall 18" diam. bass traps, Qty 4 - 4' X 2' X 4" panels. All DIY - man my wife is tolerant!
Post edited by awe-d-o-file on
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  • MillerLiteScott
    MillerLiteScott Posts: 2,561
    edited July 2008
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    Welcome awe-d-o-file.

    You are already off to a great start and there are plenty of guys here who will guide you in the right direction to make the most of your 1.2TL's.
    I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited July 2008
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    Welcome to Club Polk. The XO upgrade is well worth, and as stated above there will be plenty of help for you here.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,806
    edited July 2008
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    You won't notice any sound difference between the Molex connectors and hardwired.

    Take the PR's out, you'll most likely find that the styrofoam disc has separated from the main body. Simply reglue them.

    Hit the search function, plenty of info on crossover upgrades in here.

    I see you still have a working Tri-Vista SACD, wonderful sounding player. Sadly, can't be many of those left now.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • awe-d-o-file
    awe-d-o-file Posts: 146
    edited July 2008
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    F1nut wrote: »
    You won't notice any sound difference between the Molex connectors and hardwired.

    Take the PR's out, you'll most likely find that the styrofoam disc has separated from the main body. Simply reglue them.

    Hit the search function, plenty of info on crossover upgrades in here.

    I see you still have a working Tri-Vista SACD, wonderful sounding player. Sadly, can't be many of those left now.


    It does sound like styrofoam rattling, should be an easy fix. Thanks! Best type of glue? I'm surprised to hear you say the connectors don't degrade sound, especially when they are over 20 years old. I did Deox and Pro Gold them and that helped. My idea was to make a large point to point wired board and upgrade weak components from the existing x-over. I'm not having luck with the search here. I searched "1.2 crossover" and even "1.2" and got zero results. I will try other words. I know from my 1A's that binding posts and internal rewire is a benefit. Rewire is time consuming for sure! I put Kimber 4TC in my 1A's with Vampire binding posts. The TL's are worth WBT's and I can get them for "cost". My Trivista has been great, knock on wood. Several of the Phillips transports failed and there are no more or parts. I think its a better redbook player than it is an SACD player. I mean redbook is awesome but SACD is only very good compared to other players.


    ET

    System: MF Trivista SACD > Placette passive> CJ passive horizontal bi-amp> MF 2500A(LF) MF2100(HF) > 1.2TL's

    Other: Speltz silver Eichmann IC's & speaker wire, Econotweaks Detail Magnifiers, PS Audio P-300(source), R. Gray 600, Al Sekala's AC R/C filters, R. Gray HT PC's, Oyaide R-1's,WPC-Z , M-1, Herbie's & DIY Isolation
    Room: Qty 7 - 4' tall 18" diam. bass traps, Qty 4 - 4' X 2' X 4" panels. All DIY - man my wife is tolerant!
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  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,860
    edited July 2008
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    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=69245&highlight=crossover+upgrade

    Check all of Raife's (Darqueknight) reviews, he does great work and details it nicely.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
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  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited July 2008
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    This might help get you started on your project. (if you had not already found it...)

    Also - use the search words sda crossover upgrade and that will help narrow things down a bit for you.

    Welcome to Club Polk.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited July 2008
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    Here's some more:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/tags.php?tag=crossover+upgrades

    I tagged several crossover threads when I thought tags would be used wisely.....
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
    SOPA
    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,806
    edited July 2008
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    The best glue? One of the 3M products was recommended by some other forum members, but IIRC one melts styrofoam, so check on that first.

    I see the guys have helped you with the search function, so.....
    My Trivista has been great, knock on wood. Several of the Phillips transports failed and there are no more or parts. I think its a better redbook player than it is an SACD player. I mean redbook is awesome but SACD is only very good compared to other players.

    That Philips transport has a predicted 100% failure rate, which is too bad as I thought the sound of both SACD and CD was excellent and I would have been happy with that detailed warm, lush sound for many years to come.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • awe-d-o-file
    awe-d-o-file Posts: 146
    edited July 2008
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    great comments and links. I'm getting excited and ready to move forward. I still have this idea to take some cherry I cut down and make a 10" X 4" X 1/2" thick plank to layout the new x-over w/point to point wiring. It would look so nice. I like Darque Knights comment about taking the metal cover off and finding the small board inside. I had the same impression. I remember how beautiful my RTA-12 crossovers were. My gasket for the metal cover has had it. I welcome suggestions on a replacement for that. I was worried about using something too thick and stressing or ruining the threaded screw holes in the particleboard. Maybe thin rope caulk? I also need a glue rec for my PR's that won't destroy the styrofoam. I think I want something that won't dry hard and brittle. The journey continues............

    ET


    ET

    System: MF Trivista SACD > Placette passive> CJ passive horizontal bi-amp> MF 2500A(LF) MF2100(HF) > 1.2TL's

    Other: Speltz silver Eichmann IC's & speaker wire, Econotweaks Detail Magnifiers, PS Audio P-300(source), R. Gray 600, Al Sekala's AC R/C filters, R. Gray HT PC's, Oyaide R-1's,WPC-Z , M-1, Herbie's & DIY Isolation
    Room: Qty 7 - 4' tall 18" diam. bass traps, Qty 4 - 4' X 2' X 4" panels. All DIY - man my wife is tolerant!
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  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited July 2008
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    Search on Passive Glue Repair and you should find what you need....
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
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  • Deadof_knight
    Deadof_knight Posts: 980
    edited July 2008
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    He can rebuild an awesome set of 1.2tls I know I own one of his sets he has performed surgury on ...... Theirs GREAT! too say the least .....



    I recently torched one tweet thought Ricci! It hurt my heart ..... when I did it

    I personally recommend a Rega UNIt transport wise they sound blissful !
    :cool: " He who dies with the most equipment wins Right ? "

    Denon 3300 Adcom 535 BBe w/sub out 1 pr 4.6s 2 pr of 4 jrs Recent additions Samsung Lns-4095D LCD, Samsung hd-960 DVD, Monster HT-5000 Power center    ,HPSA-1000 18" sealed DiY home sub.:D
    Black Laquer 1.2tl's w/ upgraded x-overs and Tweets BI-Amped with 2 Carver tfm-35's Knukonceptz 10ga cables
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  • awe-d-o-file
    awe-d-o-file Posts: 146
    edited July 2008
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    Lasareath wrote: »
    Awe-d-o,

    Please post pics when you create these new crossover boards. I've was juggling with this as well in the past. I wanted to make an outboard crossover so that I can swap it really fast.

    I'd make one pair stock, one pair with Sonicaps and another pair with Gold/oil Mundorfs ;)


    Money is a little tight these days. However as I have the cherry I might as well start that part of the process. I need to find someone with a more precision saw than I have. I then want to insert threaded sleeves in the wood to accept screws I will put through the big metal front plate yo hold it on place. I need to get a bit to make counter sync holes as well. I will post pics when I get going. I am still going to go with "hard wired" to the drivers, input and eliminate the molex <type> connectors on the original board so mine won't be easily swappable.


    ET

    System: MF Trivista SACD > Placette passive> CJ passive horizontal bi-amp> MF 2500A(LF) MF2100(HF) > 1.2TL's

    Other: Speltz silver Eichmann IC's & speaker wire, Econotweaks Detail Magnifiers, PS Audio P-300(source), R. Gray 600, Al Sekala's AC R/C filters, R. Gray HT PC's, Oyaide R-1's,WPC-Z , M-1, Herbie's & DIY Isolation
    Room: Qty 7 - 4' tall 18" diam. bass traps, Qty 4 - 4' X 2' X 4" panels. All DIY - man my wife is tolerant!
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,806
    edited July 2008
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    I am still going to go with "hard wired" to the drivers, input and eliminate the molex <type> connectors on the original board so mine won't be easily swappable.

    You're only **** yourself by doing that.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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