Subwoofer placement

Options
DannyV
DannyV Posts: 23
edited March 2003 in Speakers
Hello Polkies,

I'm new to the forums but I feel at home already. I really love to listen to music and movies on my polk's. I just feel kinda frustrated with the positioning of my subwoofer i just got. I went woth the Polk 404 for numerous reasons, and wanted to know where the best placement for it would be....I basically have a cubed shaped room with the speakers and the TV in the corner. do you know of any websites i can get info on this stuff?
Danny V
57" toshiba cinema series
H/K 525
"pos" Panasonic DVD progressive scan
Front: Polk Rti1000p
Center: Polk Csi40
Rear: Polk Fxi30
Sub: Velodyne CHT-10
Post edited by DannyV on

Comments

  • MxStYlEpOlKmAn
    MxStYlEpOlKmAn Posts: 2,116
    edited February 2003
    Options
    Move your sub along the wall, and every so foot stop and listen -- until u find the best sound for u, thats all neone can tell you - other than that.......try the corner.
    Damn you all, damn you all to hell.......
    I promised myself
    No more speakers. None. Nada. And then you posted this!!!!
    Damn you all! - ATC
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited February 2003
    Options
    Good on ya Sid... helping a newbie...

    Welcome Danny from a fellow Buckeye, albeit a transplanted one... originally from Cleveland area here…

    Mx is right on with his advice. Sub positioning is largely trial and error. General rules are in play like the most bass reinforcement can be found in corners then diminishes as you move away along a wall, and even more if you come away from the wall. But a cube shaped room is as difficult as they come.

    First you need to be sure you have set your rig up properly as you could have bass interaction issues with your other speakers. See this for general set-up guidelines:
    http://clubpolk.polkaudio.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=7987
    Once your set up is right then positioning playtime is in order. You can do by ear, but at $35 Radio Shack's analog SPL meter is a great investment as is a test DVD (both the Avia's $40 and the less expensive, $20 Sound and Vision are popular here).

    If you have additional questions, you’d best be served by moving this thread to the “Subs and Bass Management” area. There you will attract the attention of one, Dr. Spec. He is the Club’s foremost authority on that area. Sid and I are pupils; Doc’s the teacher… Doubt you can find better advice anywhere on the Web, plus it's free here and interactive...

    Once again welcome...
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • DannyV
    DannyV Posts: 23
    edited February 2003
    Options
    ...thanks for the advice guys. Sometimes people that work in stores that sell audio equipment are kinda weird. This one auidophile salesman that works at HiFibuys in Canton, OH told me that if I bought an Athena sub from him, then he would show me where to place it in the room. Well, you can see I didnt go with the Athena because the guy was cocky. Just about all audiophile's ive met are really cocky guys that really do know what there talking about, but make bad salespeople.

    I found that the best way to buy something is: first, do some research on your own on the web from real owners...not BS. Second, buy your stuff on the web because its a lot cheaper and they have a return policy.


    thanks again,
    Danny V
    57" toshiba cinema series
    H/K 525
    "pos" Panasonic DVD progressive scan
    Front: Polk Rti1000p
    Center: Polk Csi40
    Rear: Polk Fxi30
    Sub: Velodyne CHT-10
  • Dr. Spec
    Dr. Spec Posts: 3,780
    edited February 2003
    Options
    Originally posted by Tour2ma If you have additional questions, you?d best be served by moving this thread to the ?Subs and Bass Management? area. There you will attract the attention of one, Dr. Spec. He is the Club?s foremost authority on that area. Sid and I are pupils; Doc?s the teacher? Doubt you can find better advice anywhere on the Web, plus it's free here and interactive...

    Thanks for the props, Bruce, but before I can't fit my head through the doorway - the only thing I have going for me is a photographic memopry and the willingness to help.

    I haven't invented anything new over here - I learn from the real bass gurus over in the subwoofer DIY forums and pass on what I fully understand (which is not everything I read unfortunately). These guys go over my head sometimes and I've gotta re-read it three times before I understand it, and I'm a licensed professional engineer!

    There are some REALLY smart guys over in these other forums who put me to shame. But I'm learning and I'm willing to pass it on - that's what we are all here for.
    "What we do in life echoes in eternity"

    Ed Mullen (emullen@svsound.com)
    Director - Technology and Customer Service
    SVS
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited February 2003
    Options
    You're welcome and nice rig there... Particilarly intertested in your review of your Toshiba. My 32" is starting to feel a bit small as I go deeper into the world of wide-screen DVD's. Love the brand...

    Never heard of "Athena", but no matter. One thing you won't find 'round here are a lot of folks with their noses up in the air. Polk tends to draw a crowd that's into value. We don't kid ourselves that there aren't better speakers out there, but feel that the price/reward curve does get pretty steep from here on out.
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • DannyV
    DannyV Posts: 23
    edited February 2003
    Options
    ...coo, I'll have to post some reviews of my stuff. Athena's a new company, but they're not "mainstream" like Polk. Athena's bottom of line stuff is like $800/pr of floorstanding speakers, which isnt too bad for good speakers. The next line up in Athenas level starts at $3000/pr for speakers, which is too much for 2 speakers for me. For the money though...the bottom of the line Athena's dont touch Polk Lsi's.

    The Toshiba widescreen I got is a Theatrwide model, which they dont sell at Bestbuy's. I bought mine at HHgregg www.hhgregg.com . The theatrewide i recommend over the regular model for overall picture quality and features. Like, a better projection system, cool remote, pip features, picture setup. If I had to go buy another BigScreen I would of probably bought the Mitsubishi because it comes in 3 pieces. Now that im taking my 57" from the basement to upstairs, I have to beg my friends to help me.

    Overall though, I'm glad I bought my TV first because hometheater is not the same without big viewing. The BIG sound from the surround sound and the BIG picture from the TV work very well together :)
    Danny V
    57" toshiba cinema series
    H/K 525
    "pos" Panasonic DVD progressive scan
    Front: Polk Rti1000p
    Center: Polk Csi40
    Rear: Polk Fxi30
    Sub: Velodyne CHT-10
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,712
    edited February 2003
    Options
    Can I ask how large the room is for your home theater?

    Often times I hear people complain of a lack of warmth or a weak subwoofer. In both cars and homes. One thing I find to be a common problem is people over-buy a sub for thier application. Not to say you have done so yet because I do not know your specific application. However, the reason most people have for buying a huge sub is they want to FEEL it. Well, over powering a room with a sub is a good way to get some nasty response. You don't need the biggest baddest sub money can buy. You need something that isn't over-powered and will fit your application properly. I have heard 8 inch subs fill a 12x12x7 foot listening room better than a 12 inch sub because the 8 inch sub was designed and constructed for a small space to begin with. A 12 inch sub will work best where it has room to breathe, usually in a much larger room closer to say 20x20x9.

    A way to remedy this is to reflect the sound off of walls. Reflecting the sound slows the sound waves down and makes the sub behave as if it were in a larger room. Facing the sub into a corner can get this affect for you. Also, reflected sub information tends to have a warmer and smoother sound. Since you said that your speakers and TV are in the corner, you might try stuffing the sub behind the TV in the corner.

    One thing to remember about sub placement versus other speakers is that low frequency information is difficult for the human ear to localize. Sub manufacturers and designers capitalize on that fact by building downward firing subs and ports to reflect sound off of a floor or a panel. So, stuffing your sub behind the TV may prove to be a better idea than running it along the wall. Especially if the room is small. It will not only reflect the sound waves and smooth out the response but it will be harder to localize the sub which greatly increases the definition of your front sound stage. Overpowered subs or subs that are too large for the room will tend to skew a sound stage and sound harsh. Most people just turn them down to almost inaudible levels and then complain that the sub doesn't hit hard enough. For the other full-range speakers in your setup, the rely on direct information to build the sound stage and give you the surround sound effect. Since a sub is meant to fill in and reinforce the bottom end for these speakers, a single sub needs to radiate sound information for all 5 or 6 or 2 or however many speakers are in your system.

    I was always told then when assembling a home theater or a stereo, the best way to approach placement and component selection is by thinking of the room as an enclosure itself and select the size, power and placement of your components accordingly. To do that, you must do the number one thing that everyone here has mentioned and that is research. Take measurements, audtion equipment and read up about the specs of the equipment and what the specs mean so that you can make an informed decision. Not only will it sound spectacular but you get a certain amount of satisfaction from a job well done!
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited February 2003
    Options
    Originally posted by Dr. Spec
    Thanks for the props, Bruce, but before I can't fit my head through the doorway - the only thing I have going for me is a photographic memopry and the willingness to help.
    I haven't invented anything new over here - I learn from the real bass gurus over in the subwoofer DIY forums and pass on what I fully understand (which is not everything I read unfortunately). These guys go over my head sometimes and I've gotta re-read it three times before I understand it, and I'm a licensed professional engineer!
    There are some REALLY smart guys over in these other forums who put me to shame. But I'm learning and I'm willing to pass it on - that's what we are all here for.
    First, who's Bruce? ;) and just add my standard referral fee to my account…
    Hey, we all learn somewhere and I for one am damn glad someone is willing to distill all the lofty, expert discussions down to something I can easily understand, and is willing to not only spend the time doing this, but also pass it on here. After all I'm only a lowly ChemE...

    Your modesty is obvious, but you know I'm not blowing smoke here, so if your head swells a bit, just buy a bigger hunting cap and live with it :)

    Photographic memory… wow that’s cool. You must have been hell on wheels at Trivial Pursuit… :D

    Side Note: Weird how when you quoted me a number of my quotation marks turned into questions marks… :confused: First time I’ve noticed this…

    Anyway glad you came across Danny’s thread. Think he’s going to end up needing help beyond my learning before it’s all over.

    Danny meet Doc --- Doc, Danny… you’re in good hands now…

    Jstas,
    You posted while I was typing the above. Hadn’t seen you wade into sub discussions before. Some interesting thoughts in your post like firing the sub into a wall. Also liked your “think of the room as an enclosure” thought.
    Was surprised that you’ve found that “oversized” subs can be a problem. I always assumed that any sub could be tamed through proper set up, position and electronics, to serve any room. But if bigger means a sub can reach deeper (and the two often go hand-in-hand), then I can see where this could be an issue. As more low frequency information is reproduced, the likelihood of reflections interacting would increase. And more so in smaller spaces, than larger.
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,712
    edited February 2003
    Options
    Sub box design is a heavy hitter in the car stereo world which is where most of my experience comes from. Subs are subs. The only difference between the ones in your house and the ones in your car is power and signal source.

    Any sub can be tamed. However, if your sub is constructed with your listening area and desired result in mind then it will be much easier to get teh sound you want.

    In a car, most people who want big boom go for high power and large 12 inch or bigger subs. They provide alot of noise but are not as accurate and they don't have the frequency range of say a 10 inch sub in a sealed enclosure. In a large space, a bigger sub has more room to breathe and the sound has room to expand and even out. It takes away some of teh muddled sound of a larger sub. Which is why you see trucks and SUVs loaded with 12 and 15 inch subs.

    I used to help a freind out installing high dollar systems in rich people houses. I learned alot through casual observations about how people with way too much money over buy things. We did an install for a guy who had a rather large home and a much smaller condo. The condo was for his extra-marital exploits. Well, he had my friend purchase the same equipment for his home and his condo. Since my friend was getting paid to do what the guy wanted, he got it and went with it. The condo room sounded harsh and it seemed as if the sound was bouncing off of teh walls in every direction. The same system at the house, in a listening room twice the size of the condo, sounded smooth and elegantand blended very well.

    Now, all the equipment was the same except for the condo's listening room was 15x11.5x9 feet and teh house had a theater room of 35x22x10. Both subs were a 12 inch Velodyne with about 350 watts of power running through them, if I remember correctly. That sub was obviously way too much for the smaller listening room but filled the much larger room very well.

    If you look at the room as an enclosure, you realize that stuffing a 15 inch woofer into a box designed to hold an 8 inch woofer just isn't going to work so well. So what you have to do is audition the equipment to see how it would sound, preferably with as similar an amp and signal source as you can find and then select your speakers based on that. Basically what it comes down to is the 10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound sack. All it does is make one hell of a mess.

    So choosing your speakers based on room size, you can get a small 6 or 8 inch woofer in a small room with 200 watts to sound just as good and shake as much furniture as a 10 or 12 inch woofer with 400 watts in a larger room.

    There is science behind it. It has to do with standing waves, resonant frequencies and wavelengths and such. Really too much science and physics to get into on an internet message forum. I will say thought that I have witness the application of this science in real life and it makes a very big difference.

    With all of that said, full-range speakers like a tower set, you are pretty much limited only by your budget. By the time you reach the point where a set of towers will overpower your room, you are probably well beyond your budget anyway. This goes along the lines of a budget is exponentially related to the size of the room and the size of the house that room is in. We all have a finite amount of money and that is a major constraint. It is very cool to have the biggest baddest bragging rights but if your room can't handle your high dollar equipment and makes it sound like crap, whats the point?

    Bigger is not always better.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • DannyV
    DannyV Posts: 23
    edited February 2003
    Options
    yes....i agree Jstas. Bigger is not always badder. Thats the same reason why I went with the Lsi 9's and not the 15's or 25's for front speakers. Basically, all you need for front speakers are a good mix of Tweeter/midrange. You'll never get the sound out if a tower that you do of a Subwoofer.

    Let the Subwoofer do its job up to a point! Thats why they make subwoofers.
    Danny V
    57" toshiba cinema series
    H/K 525
    "pos" Panasonic DVD progressive scan
    Front: Polk Rti1000p
    Center: Polk Csi40
    Rear: Polk Fxi30
    Sub: Velodyne CHT-10
  • DannyV
    DannyV Posts: 23
    edited February 2003
    Options
    btw....my room is 13x14x7 with a drop ceiling ! It's funny to see the panel move up and down with the bass.
    Danny V
    57" toshiba cinema series
    H/K 525
    "pos" Panasonic DVD progressive scan
    Front: Polk Rti1000p
    Center: Polk Csi40
    Rear: Polk Fxi30
    Sub: Velodyne CHT-10
  • rs159
    rs159 Posts: 1,027
    edited February 2003
    Options
    Basically what it comes down to is the 10 pounds of crap in a 5 pound sack. All it does is make one hell of a mess.
    :lol: Effin' hilarious
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited February 2003
    Options
    Jstas,
    Again I see your points, but given that Danny has his rig and his room, how do we help him to help them to get along?
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • DannyV
    DannyV Posts: 23
    edited March 2003
    Options
    btw...

    The song I test all my audio equipment with is:

    Fear Factory - Resurrection

    Has a good range of metal, vocals, bass.....
    Danny V
    57" toshiba cinema series
    H/K 525
    "pos" Panasonic DVD progressive scan
    Front: Polk Rti1000p
    Center: Polk Csi40
    Rear: Polk Fxi30
    Sub: Velodyne CHT-10
  • goingganzo
    goingganzo Posts: 2,793
    edited March 2003
    Options
    if you want the best output if a single sub at the listning spot. take your sub but it where you sit then crall around the room with the meter and look for the loudest spot. place your sub there and you will be happy.
  • faster100
    faster100 Posts: 6,124
    edited March 2003
    Options
    so what if it hits hardest right in the middle??
    MY HT RIG:
    Sherwood p-965
    Sherwood sd871 dvd
    Rotel 1075 amp x5
    LSI15 mains
    LsiC center
    LSIfx surround backs
    Lsi7 side surrounds
    SVS pb12/plus2


    2 Channel Rig:

    nad 1020 Pre-amp
    Rotel 1080 stereo amp
    Polk sda 2B
    kenwood grunt Tuner
    realistic lab 450 TT
    Signal cable IC
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited March 2003
    Options
    Then you stub your toes a lot...

    We must be willing to sacrifice for our sound. :)
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • goingganzo
    goingganzo Posts: 2,793
    edited March 2003
    Options
    i said crall around the primiter of the room i ment.
  • freid
    freid Posts: 24
    edited March 2003
    Options
    Originally posted by Jstas
    Can I ask how large the room is for your home theater?


    A way to remedy this is to reflect the sound off of walls. Reflecting the sound slows the sound waves down and makes the sub behave as if it were in a larger room. Facing the sub into a corner can get this affect for you. Also, reflected sub information tends to have a warmer and smoother sound.

    Thanks a lot for this tip. I turned my Velo CH12 towards the wall and the bass suddenly came alive. I could not believe I had this sub for 8 months and I can only now really enjoy its sound.
  • goingganzo
    goingganzo Posts: 2,793
    edited March 2003
    Options
    that is caues you are getting a peak from the wall vibrateing and makeing more than the sub alone. but there is a drawback to this. your bass has a higher thd and also you are limiting your fr with your bass is at the same level with the rest of your speakers.
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited March 2003
    Options
    Originally posted by freid
    Thanks a lot for this tip. I turned my Velo CH12 towards the wall and the bass suddenly came alive. I could not believe I had this sub for 8 months and I can only now really enjoy its sound.
    That is something. A few details please…
    How tight to the wall is the driver now?
    Did the sound improve throughout the room or just in your primary listening position?
    Not skeptical here, just curious as to whether you may have simply eliminated a dead area and maybe replaced it with a "hot" spot at your prime position.

    Also wondering if firing into the wall at close proximity:
    - turns the wall into a radiator; and/ or
    - creates strong reflections that the cone could have to fight to its long-term detriment?
    With a little more thought the latter seems unlikely, as down-firings are very near the surface they fire into, but then again then may be designed to take the reflections.
    Dunno, just fishing here, wondering aloud… but I guess that was obvious…:rolleyes:
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,712
    edited March 2003
    Options
    Originally posted by Tour2ma
    Jstas,
    Again I see your points, but given that Danny has his rig and his room, how do we help him to help them to get along?

    Trial and error. Takes a long time but without setting up the room with sophisticated listening equipment, there isn't a better way for the average guy to do it. A simple decibel meter will help but there is no way to make it accurate.

    Originally posted by goingganzo
    that is caues you are getting a peak from the wall vibrateing and makeing more than the sub alone. but there is a drawback to this. your bass has a higher thd and also you are limiting your fr with your bass is at the same level with the rest of your speakers.

    While that may be true, the simple fact remains is that specs can only tell you how the speaker operates. They tell you nothing of how it will perform inside your listening room. The shape of your room and the materials used in the carpeting, wall materials, decorating, paint or wallpaper and even the furniture can change the frequency response of the speakers.

    I'm not understanding your statement about bass response though. If the enclosure is designed to respond within a certain frequency range, how can the wall be limiting the enclosure's response? The wall may not be reflecting all of the information because the wavelengths are different. If the sound wave length is 2 feet long and you place the sub 1.5 feet away from the wall then the 2 ft wave will not reflect well because 25% of the info is going through the wall and not reflecting off of it. That's not the scientific reason but that is findamentally what is hppening. The enclosure will always produce it's rated frequency range unless the enclosure or speaker are changed. Position in the room will not affect the enclosure only how the enclosure reacts in the room. That is what makes the room a second enclosure.

    Like I said before, every room is an enclosure. If you want to have a different level of response, change the position of the sub. The problem is that if the sub is too big for the room then your ideal response position will be outside the perimeter of the room. Therefore, bouncing the signal off of the wall will slow down a certain range of wavelengths and improve the audible response. Yes you will lose information but, unless you buy equipment for the room you are working with, this is a drawback you will have to live with.

    Above all though, specs can mean jack-squat when it comes to what a person hears. If they like what they hear, they will be happy until they get another, better reference to change their mind. If the owner likes it, that's what counts.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • freid
    freid Posts: 24
    edited March 2003
    Options
    Originally posted by Tour2ma
    That is something. A few details please…
    How tight to the wall is the driver now?
    Did the sound improve throughout the room or just in your primary listening position?
    Not skeptical here, just curious as to whether you may have simply eliminated a dead area and maybe replaced it with a "hot" spot at your prime position.

    :

    Hi,

    The room is 24x15x10. The sub is on the other long side of the room opposite the mains. When I turned the driver towards the (brick) wall at 10" from the wall the bass sounded much richer throughout the room.