Odyssey Stratos Extreme Monoblocks . . .

SolidSqual
SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
edited May 2008 in Electronics
. . . I just pulled the trigger after an hour long phone call with Klaus. His Customer service is as impeccable as people say, but has to be experienced to be believed. I got all the new boards with upgraded wiring and all the other goodies he could throw at it!

January 26th is the delivery date. He's going to drop them off at my apartment himself! This is sick.

Sorry Mark, I know you don't like what I've done, but at least I'm not trading my Adagios for Tylers!

stratos-title.jpg
Post edited by SolidSqual on
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Comments

  • Sherardp
    Sherardp Posts: 8,038
    edited December 2007
    Its a gorgeous piece of gear for sure. Congrats on your new toy. Whats the specs on that bad boy?
    Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!

    Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,576
    edited December 2007
    He's an absolute pleasure to talk with on the phone and he makes a good product....no shame in that.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • pearsall001
    pearsall001 Posts: 5,227
    edited December 2007
    Congrats!!! Many hours of musical bliss await!
    "2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up.
  • TroyD
    TroyD Posts: 13,124
    edited December 2007
    If you dig 'em...rock on.

    BDT
    I plan for the future. - F1Nut
  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited December 2007
    Good on ya...

    enjoy !!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)


    :cool:
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited December 2007
    Klaus likes to keep many of his modifications proprietary, but i do know I am getting upgraded wiring, his new boards that cam in last week, his new power supply which won't arrive until January 18th and some other board or something he attempted to explain to me. At any rate, Klaus strikes me as being incredibly honest and indicated the upgrade to Mono Extremes from my Modded Khartago would be like going from a Chevy Cavalier with Racing Stripes and Buzz Mufflers to a Dodge Viper that's no longer street legal. Whatever all that means the improvement is suposed to be exponential. With the mods I am supposed to have a 50% improvement over the previous Stratos Extreme Standard.

    The base specs are as follows:

    Model Stratos Mono
    Extreme

    Input: RCA & XLR
    Power @ 8 ohm: 1 X 300W (Mono)
    Output Class: Class A/AB
    Frequency range: 2 - 500,000 Hz
    Memory: 180,000 uF per channel
    Current: >60 Amps per channel
    Delivery
    Distortion %: Not audible <0.04
    Damping Factor: >800 Continuous
    DC Offset: <1 mV
    Weight: >66 lbs. each

    Dimension (inches) 19 X 18 X 7
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,945
    edited December 2007
    SS, you are in for a treat. I have been impressed with two amps [Stratos extreme/no upgrades and the mono's w/upgrades] I have had the pleasure to audition that Klaus has built. Solid build for sure. I'll have one parked in my rig w/ upgrades very soon.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited December 2007
    I'm pumped. My whole system will be together in a month. I can't wait to update showroom for you guys to see all the good stuff you've helped put together.
  • lightman1
    lightman1 Posts: 10,796
    edited December 2007
    I heard Treys(VR3) a couple weeks ago on his Tylers. Damn nice! Looking at 'em myself as soon as I win the lottery!
    Great snag, SS!
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited December 2007
    Zero wrote: »
    Heh, the least you know - the better. Enjoy the amps when they finally arrive...

    What's that supposed to mean? I don't follow?
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,945
    edited December 2007
    nevermind.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited December 2007
    Hmmmmm . . . does Klaus have a problem with deadlines? Fortunately for me, he's a 5 minute drive away and I already own Trey's modded Khartago. If I have to wait, I have to wait.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,945
    edited January 2008
    Well, I have mine installed and operational. Not dialed in yet, but impressive. Makes the Tyler's rock like they never have. First impressions are good. Lots of power, lots of [quick] punch. When I get the rig all dialed in I will offer a review.

    SS, as I said before, I think you are in for a treat. The spec's I have on the amps I have used prior to this amp [not mono block, the amp pictured above] "should" perform better. So far, not the case. The bass control "Q" is pretty damn impressive and I understand why Trey is considering not using his subs anymore.

    Troy, I'm not confronting whatsoever, but I am curious as to why you made the comment "If you dig 'em...rock on". Am I reading you incorrectly? There's just a slight hint that you may not be, let's say impressed. Am I wrong? Just trying to feel where you are coming from......
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited January 2008
    I just found out I'm getting the new blue boards as opposed to the previously new red boards . . . the blue boards appear to be much thicker. I hope Klaus knows what he's doing with the upgrade. I would have been fine with the red boards but he gave me blue for the same price.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,945
    edited January 2008
    Good deal. I have the red. Silver faceplate. Heavy and big SOB. Be prepared for them to take up some depth in your stand. Add another three to four inches on to the back for hookups and PC upgrades. I had a new PC waiting for it for when it got here, but had to go w/ the stock because if I put the cord in [center, back], the front of the amp would hang off the edge of my previously large shelf. :eek:
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited January 2008
    I got two 8' Signal Magic Power Cords waiting for when they arrive. I hope I don't run into any issues with placement. I have two VTI amp stands for each amp on either side of my speakers.
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited January 2008
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Good deal. I have the red. Silver faceplate. Heavy and big SOB. Be prepared for them to take up some depth in your stand. Add another three to four inches on to the back for hookups and PC upgrades. I had a new PC waiting for it for when it got here, but had to go w/ the stock because if I put the cord in [center, back], the front of the amp would hang off the edge of my previously large shelf. :eek:

    For my 840C, I took a metal coat hangar and fashioned it into a cradle to hold the weight of the cable so it wouldn't fall out of the slot. I don't think it would have fallen out, but at least this way there was no strain.
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,136
    edited January 2008
    I've heard a lot of good things about them, I would love to get my ears on them.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,945
    edited January 2008
    If you don't get sick in March, you will.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited January 2008
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Well, I have mine installed and operational. Not dialed in yet, but impressive. Makes the Tyler's rock like they never have. First impressions are good. Lots of power, lots of [quick] punch. When I get the rig all dialed in I will offer a review.

    Glad to hear that your first impressions are positive. I look forward to your full review.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited January 2008
    yeah in 400 hours plus!
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited January 2008
    Would it be bad to leave my system on for 16.66666666667 days straight to break in the amps?
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 29,387
    edited January 2008
    My amps have been on for approx...

    MONTHS!

    The mono extremes take FOREVER to fully charge, youd have to be a crazy man to turn those things off when done
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited January 2008
    No no no. . . I'm not suggesting turning them, I am wondering if it would be ok to keep my entire system on for about 17 days to break the amps in.
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited January 2008
    My amps have been on for approx...

    MONTHS!

    The mono extremes take FOREVER to fully charge, youd have to be a crazy man to turn those things off when done

    Treitz --

    Just in case you weren't aware of it, Sid's right. The Odyssey needs to be kept "on" all the time, and it takes a while before it sounds optimal. Since your amp has been dormant for the past few weeks, the sound may actually improve in a day or two.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited January 2008
    This should put us all on the same wavelength:



    The following and it's related pages are intended as a general referance to the proper setup and operation of audio equipment. Every single audio and video system, Odyssey or other brands, benefit from these simple steps, some of which are actually free and very effective. A little attention and work can go a very long way as far as your system's performance is concerned

    Even though most high-end audio equipment such as Odyssey products have been burned-in at the factory for a minimum of 48 hours, there is still considerable operational time needed for your unit to perform at its best. For enhanced sonic performance, we highly recommend you leave your unit on at all times until break-in is complete. The length of the break-in period is highly variable and dependent upon the specific product. There are specially-designed CDs, such as Reference Recording's Test and Burn-In CD (RX1000) or the Sheffield and Purist Audio Designs PAD burn-in CD's that contain special tracks that help with break-in. As a general rule, most equipment requires several hundred hours of playing to fully break-in. There are several factors that determine the extensive length of "break-in", such as charging of capacitors, establishing the electron flow on the PC board, cables, soldering joints, etc. External conditions, such as the power quality and stability of your power in your listening room, the kind of music you are listening to (more or less dynamics), and many more factors will contribute to the break-in process. It is important to note, that the more a given electronic unit has been played, the smaller the audible differences get.

    Even though we generalize improvements across the board, the typical phases of break-in below are more valid for solid state equipment, such as the Odyssey..

    Within the break-in process, we distinguish four distinct phases of performance:

    First Period: After turning on your amplifier or preamplifier for the first time, the units will require a few minutes to stabilize. The sound will be rather harsh on the higher frequencies, and the dynamic range is rather restricted with a flat overall presentation. This sonic signature will always be apparent when you turn on "cold" components.

    Second Period: This stage will be reached after approximately 1-2 hours of playing time and lasts about 3-4 days. This stage is all about the charging of the power supply, and during this time, the dynamics, soundstaging, focus, and transients will improve noticeably. Essentially, your unit will start "opening up and relaxing." However, please also note that the amplifiers do a "Jeckyl and Hyde" during this time to some degree. Meaning that one day you might not have any bass whatsoever while the next day you might have too much of it, for example. Overall, the presentation might be very unstabile.

    Third Period: After approximately 10-14 days of playing and being charged, the upper midrange and highs will "smoothen out". The bass will improve in speed and articulation with less overhang. The result is more even and natural tone balance.

    Fourth Period: After about 6 weeks + of operation when left on continuously, your unit should be very close to being fully broken in. The sound and performance has progressively improved and your unit will perform to it's full sonic potential.


    Even after the initial break-in period, the internal components lose their charge each time the unit is turned off. The full re-charging can take hours (and sometimes days!). Therefore, the best sonic performance is achieved when the components are kept fully charged at all times. This essentially means leaving your equipment on at all times--if you are comfortable with that arrangement. If not, at least be aware that it will take some time for your unit to warm up and fully charge each time you power up. These charged-based performance issues are applicable to most electronic equipment, and are especially critical in high-end solid-state gear such as Odyssey amplifiers and preamplifiers.

    To realize ultimate performance of your audio system, fine-tuned adjustments or "tweaking" should be considered. This can involve everything from simply setting up the equipment properly to using expensive system-enhancing products and acoustical room treatments. We will attempt to categorize by cost the various options and provide some basic advice on optimizing system performance.

    In reviewing the following sections, it is important to understand that the suggested techniques and products are system-specific. Therefore, we strongly advise you to audition the products before purchasing them. Please feel free to call us and we will try to guide you through the veritable jungle of tweak and enhancement products. Even though for the last 14 years we have accumulated an extensive database of such tweak products with the emphasis of synergy with our products. We strongly recommend to purchase any tweaks only after an in-home trial with your own system.

    http://www.odysseyaudio.com/setup_tweak.html

    This info. usually comes with Odyssey owner's manuals as well.
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,804
    edited January 2008
    Even after the initial break-in period, the internal components lose their charge each time the unit is turned off. The full re-charging can take hours (and sometimes days!).

    Is there something wrong with the capacitors he uses?
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited January 2008
    From the way they sound, I would say no.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,945
    edited January 2008
    Absolutely not.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited January 2008
    WilliamM2 wrote: »
    Is there something wrong with the capacitors he uses?

    Most designers put a resistor across each of the storage capacitors. These resistors are a very high resistance value so they take very little current while the unit is powered up and can be a low wattage part. What they do is drain the voltage off when the unit is powered down. As far as I know they are there for safety purposes only.
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D