Outlaw Audio RR2150 sufficient for Monitor 70s?
rru2s
Posts: 90
I just ordered this combination, but I can return the Outlaw for 30 days with no penalty.
Does anyone have experience with the Outlaw RR2150: Is this 28 pound 2.1, 100 watts into 8 ohms X 2 channel receiver sufficient for Polk Monitor 70s? They are rated for 275 watts as per Polk website.
Will I get a decent amount of sound from this receiver/amp driving the 4 by 6 1/2 inch plus 1 inch speaker set in each Polk Monitor 70? That's a lot of speakers in one channel.
I just replaced a 30 year old system with a 180 watts per channel power amp and an old Advent receiver vintage late 1970s, which was driving a pair of old Polk Model 10s (2 by 6 1/2 inch drivers plus tweeter, with 10 inch passive bass radiator)
Does anyone have experience with the Outlaw RR2150: Is this 28 pound 2.1, 100 watts into 8 ohms X 2 channel receiver sufficient for Polk Monitor 70s? They are rated for 275 watts as per Polk website.
Will I get a decent amount of sound from this receiver/amp driving the 4 by 6 1/2 inch plus 1 inch speaker set in each Polk Monitor 70? That's a lot of speakers in one channel.
I just replaced a 30 year old system with a 180 watts per channel power amp and an old Advent receiver vintage late 1970s, which was driving a pair of old Polk Model 10s (2 by 6 1/2 inch drivers plus tweeter, with 10 inch passive bass radiator)
Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490
Post edited by rru2s on
Comments
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Welcome to the forum. Return the Outlaw, AND return the Monitor 70's.
Go back to your vintage system and you won't miss anything.
Something wrong with the M10's? They are great speakers.
Now seriously, if you are decided and like the 70's, the Outlaw should drive them decently. It all will depend on your listening habits. If you like really loud, then you'd be better off with some 200WPC amp. You could always get a pre and amp in the used market for what you're paying for the Outlaw.
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The old power amp, although really good quality, had to be repaired about 4 years ago. That set me back a buck 50. Now it went out again. Since it is 30 years old, I don't want the hassle as the old components keep going out. It was a great power amp, 180 watts per channel at 0.1%THD. But then again my ears are much older now and don't need any further hearing damage.
Second, I had been using an equalizer to increase bass response on the Polk 10s because although the 10 inch passive radiator had good quality, it needed a bit more push. And my equalizer was repaired but still didn't work right.
My old Polk 10s have had the 6 inch drivers blown more times than I can remember. They will just suddenly go for no apparent reason. So I think the monitor 70s will evenly distribute the power better over 4 midrange/bass speakers versus 2, which should lead to fewer problems.
The other thing is the old Advent receiver section tuner went out a few years ago and I miss having FM. I am also interested in having modern USB due to the sheer volume of music in my house in mp3 format. But the main use of this unit will be for high quality CD player -- a high end Sony unit from around 1991.
I plan to purchase HDTV in about a year and want to run DVD to the receiver rather than an overpriced surround unit. I could care less about surround, I just want really good music quality.
To sum it up, I am no longer willing to cough up 3 grand to go for components.
I think I can get high quality 2.1 from the RR2150, which has a good quality receiver, plus a good amount of 2 channel power with great sound, and even has a bit of bass boost built into it so I won't have to buy a subwoofer or buy a separate equalizer. And if I replace the Polk 10s with the Monitor 70s I should have less trouble with blowing speakers.
I found a deal on the Monitor 70s I couldn't pass up -- 540 a pair, so it's almost as cheap as the old days back when I bought my Model 10s. So in a nutshell, I am replacing two speakers, one power amp, one receiver, and one equalizer with a system that isnt' shabby for $1200 and change. And it will allow me to hook to USB, use inputs for my CD player, even bypass the receiver's amp and use just as a preamp if I ever decide for more power, or hook up the separate subwoofer output if I want that in the future.
Make sense? I also don't want to keep repairing old equipment over and over.Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490 -
I havent any experience with the Outlaw reciever. But i do have some with the mon70's. I used mine for HT but for about a month at the end before i sold them i ran them off of a Pas 3 pre and an Adcom 555II.
I was very surprised with the sound, a bit mellow with good response, I dont remember them bright at all. With HT was a bit brighter, but that was running DVD's through a pre/pro so a bit more of an edge all around. But not much.
I run a set of 2.3tl's currently, but im always thinking back and wondering if I made the right decision selling my mon's. May have to pick up another pair sometime.
I would wait on making any decision's regarding taking them back before you spend some time with them. And yes by spec's alone that reciever should power them fine, not a difficult speaker to push.
DaveOnce again we meet at last. -
I answered my own question. Both the Polk Monitor 70s and the Outlaw RR2150 arrived today.
I set them up and so far I am extremely pleased.
The Polks are so efficient that I haven't even turned the volume up past 9am, and these speakers are in a large living room, 25 by 15, which is open air with my dining room.
Sound quality of this system is superb. Very mellow, not too bright, incredibly accurate female vocals, acoustic guitar, jazz instruments too.Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490 -
The combination does not need much if any bass boost. Nowadays I listen to either Jazz, folk, piano, soft rock with female vocalists, or Christmas stuff.
However, when I played my old alternative rock CDs from the late 90s, almost every one of them sounded not deep enough at the lowest frequencies of bass no matter what the setting on the Outlaw.
If I start listening to rock more often, a sub will be mandatory with the Polk Monitor 70s, whose bass comes from two 6.5 inch speakers.
Is the Velodyne VR-1200 a good subwoofer for this system (Monitor 70s)?
That one has a 12 inch speaker and is good down to 29Hz, which should round out the Monitor 70s for lower frequency bass.Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490 -
Woops, just realized it's politically incorrect to ask about non-Polk speakers.
But then again, it's only a subwoofer, and the system is designed around the main speakers which are Polk Monitor 70s. Probably a lot of people have hybrid brands for their subwoofers, I'm guessing.Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490 -
if you feel that the system doesnt need much boost, I would say avoid a sub until your ear changes and you get the feeling that you really need a sub. a sub for 2 channel is a big hit or miss thing. I've done it, but always go back to pure 2 channel with no sub.
p.s., not too politically incorrest to ask about other speaker companies. you usually get a straight answer here from those who know about whatever line your asking about. I've owned many other speakers besides Polk, but I'm still a big Polk Fan
Living Room 2 Channel -
Wiim Ultra. Jolida CD player. Fiio k11 R2R DAC, XTZ as300 Edge amp. Focal Cobalt 826 towers,
Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
Classe Audio 5 Preamp, DIY1200as2 Icepower Amp x 2, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E70 Velvet DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Polk LSi15's with MM840 woofer upgrade.
Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Schitt Saga 2 preamp, Topping a90 headphone amp, Mac Mini, Audiophonics Hypex NC252m amp, Polk r200's -
Lots of people have speakers other than Polk on this board. Ask away!
Welcome to CP.:)Woops, just realized it's politically incorrect to ask about non-Polk speakers.
But then again, it's only a subwoofer, and the system is designed around the main speakers which are Polk Monitor 70s. Probably a lot of people have hybrid brands for their subwoofers, I'm guessing.Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2 -
if you feel that the system doesnt need much boost, I would say avoid a sub until your ear changes and you get the feeling that you really need a sub. a sub for 2 channel is a big hit or miss thing.
Well, I was very happy with jazz, acoustic guitar, orchestras, and FM easy listening. However, that is only 75 percent of our listening habits at home.
There are times, maybe once a week, when I really like to put on the old rock from the 70s or else the alternative rock from the late 90s. At that point, the speakers just don't produce the right balance. And I can't see having a system that forces me to avoid listening through the speakers to one genre of music and put on my Sennheiser headphones, particularly when rock music is designed to be played open-air for the world to hear!
If the sound doesn't couple perfectly with the Monitor 70s using a 2.1 system, then I can always turn off the sub for other styles of music. The Outlaw RR2150 I'm using has a simple switch to turn off the internal crossover whenever I would like to only use my main speakers without subwoofer.
So I ordered a Velodyne VR-1200 (130 continuous wpc, 195 peak). I suppose I might have got better sound with a Polk PSW-125, but I also read lots of happy satisfied customer reviews with the former, and I got it for 2/3 the price of the Polk sub.
Hopefully I'll be able to pick it up tonight and tweak it up for listening.Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490 -
Well, I got the sub (Velodyne VR-1200, 130 wpc continuous, 195 watts peak, 12 inch speaker with rear port) a couple nights ago and hooked it up yesterday to the Outlaw RR2150 100 wpc receiver with my Polk Monitor 70s (rated 275 wpc, each speaker has one 1 inch tweeter, two 6.5 inch midrange, and two 6.5 inch bass).
It made a world of difference on any type of music with a central bass melody.
The odd thing is, I had to boost the below-55-Hz signal by 6 dB coming from my Outlaw receiver's subwoofer output to get the sub to respond adequately, plus turn the sub volume all the way up. I think there was some kind of input level mis-match. Thank god the Outlaw RR2150 has this rather atypical control, which boosts all frequencies below a selected threshold (55, 65, 80 Hz) by exactly 6 dB. I found out that this boost is applied simultaneously both to the speaker mains (A, B, A+B) and to the subwoofer output.
I also tried playing with the Receiver's subwoofer filter (dividing the mains versus sub outputs at selected crossovers of 60, 80, or 100 Hz or else full spectrum to both mains and sub output). Also tried playing with the subwoofer's internal crossover filter (ranging from 60 to 120 Hz) and also the sub amp's volume control.
I ended up with subwoofer's internal amp at full volume and the receiver bass boost at +6 dB for below 55Hz, and the subwoofer's internal crossover about 100 Hz and the receiver's crossover at 60 Hz.
Don't ask me why, I just tried all possible combinations and this is just what seemed to work best.
ONE QUESTION -- Has anyone ever experienced a brand new subwoofer out of the box to need a few minutes of listening time just to "break in" to start kicking out the volume? I swear when I first plugged it in, all of the different settings I tried hardly worked until it had been on quite a while.Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490 -
Well, I talked to the Velodyne representative.
He said that the VRP and VX series have a problem with a lot of 2.1 systems because those systems deliver a lower level signal feeding the subwoofer compared to the surround sound systems. Therefore, he said I'm probably doing the best I can given that product. However, he told me that at a volume setting of 100%, the Velodyne amp may be compressing the signal because it thinks at the higher volume setting it must protect the speaker from clipping. OF COURSE, the only solution he recommends is that I'm supposed to exchange it for a more expensive Velodyne sub.
As usual, it boils down to more marketing to get the consumer to shell out more money. The Velodyne representative thinks I should be spending AS MUCH on my subwoofers as I spend on the main speakers. He actually said that.
However, I will never turn up the volume on my 100 wpc Outlaw Receiver farther than 9:00, so it is unlikely I will be sending that much power to the subwoofer's speaker. Hence, the problem was in the INPUT level being too low, which I ALMOST, not quite fixed by using the Outlaw Receiver's 6 dB boost for all signals below 55 Hz. Even though, I still had the subwoofer volume set to 100 percent.
The Velodyne rep also tried to talk me into a higher power subwoofer, given my room size of 3100 cubic feet (25 x 15), using highly efficient main speakers with a lot of midrange power (total of eight 6.5 inch speakers) at moderate listening volumes for those speakers. However, I'm not convinced I need a better setup because with the subwoofer corner-located in the room, I had no trouble hearing good bass at any listening location.
In my opinion, the proof is in the sound. I like the sound now that I have restricted the bass to below 60Hz, so only that portion is sent to the subwoofer, and I have increased both input signal level and internal gain volume for the subwoofer. So what if the volume is at 100 percent, because my ears don't hear compression distortion in the subwoofer's output, although the Velodyne rep said there would be some. I'm thinking the subwoofer's internal signal compression doesn't kick in until the subwoofer's total OUTPUT signal sent to it's speakers goes beyond a certain level, but that might depend on the circuit design. At least it seems that way based on my listening. And right now the sub volume is well balanced to the main speakers' volume, and I'm unlikely to EVER NEED to turn the system volume up higher than 9:00 because the Polk Monitor 70s are extremely efficient.Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490 -
I would get rid of the sub if that is the problem. That model is marginal at best IMO. IF what he is telling you is true it is reason enough to pass on it , but if you really feel you need to keep it you could also try hooking it up via the speaker outputs or the preouts and not the receivers sub out."Just because youre offended doesnt mean youre right." - Ricky Gervais
"For those who believe, no proof is necessary. For those who don't believe, no proof is possible." - Stuart Chase
"Consistency requires you to be as ignorant today as you were a year ago." - Bernard Berenson -
In a perfect world I would just buy a sub like the Polk PSW-125 to replace the Velodyne VR-1200.
One small hitch --- spousal approval. She barely accepted my spending $540 on the Polk Monitor 70s, and when I discussed ordering the $650 Outlaw Receiver, I had to do some fast talking and say it was a deal because it replaced 3 separates in my previous vintage system that cost $2500 over 30 years ago.
So currently my system is around $1400 and change. She didn't really complain when I discussed buying a subwoofer for $160, but then I actually bought a higher model costing $250. So it is out of the question to trade that in for one that costs $350.
My spouse and I both love the current sound, too, so based on listening experience it is hard to justify a sub upgrade purely based on the volume control being in a "bad" setting of 100 percent. Last night we were listening to the deep bass of Sarah McLaughlin's band from her "Surfacing" CD, plus various old jazz tunes and certain Christmas tunes like "Let it Snow" which have a nice melodic bass.Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490 -
Dang I should never have started reading these forums, I am catching the "upgrade" bug, it's contagious and spread by talking about Polk equipment.
OK, so after the Velodyne guy busted my hump over the phone yesterday about it being bad to use the VRP1200 with volume at 100%, I started checking prices. Well, lo and behold J&R electronics has the Polk 505 subwoofer for $299 plus $39 shipping. And circuit city will give me a full refund on the Velodyne.
So what are the pros or cons to upgrading to the Polk 505?
Pro - 300 watts continous, 450 watts dynamic, @+/-3dB response 28 Hz to 125 Hz
Pro - get rid of the Velodyne, 130 watts continuous, 195 peak, @+/- 3dB response 29 Hz to 160 Hz
Pro - won't have to turn the volume knob on the sub up to 100% all the time.
Con - spouse will have a fit as this will be the third upgrade in 7 days - from no sub at all, to a 130 watt sub, now to a 300 watt sub
Opinions on how to fast talk my way into this? Maybe Kay Jewelers?Living Room system: 52"HDTV, 4 Mon.70s, Epik Valor, Outlaw RR2150
Bedroom System: 2 Mon.60s,Velo VRP1200, HK3490




