Polk Audio Sr112 Dvc Help

I have the SR124 DVC, currently powered by Alpine's MRD-M605 (does over 600 watts RMS into 2 ohm load). It gets plenty loud, sounds good, but I suspect the sub has more to give. If I had my way, I'd be giving the SR sub the 750 watts RMS it can withstand continuous, but since there aren't too many amps that spec out at exactly that, I'm considering using one good for 1000 watts RMS...with gains set appropriately, of course. The likely choice for me will be Alpine's MRD-M1005, available on close-out, for a couple of reasons- modest footprint, reliable, does rated power without drama, and matches my other amp.

I tried my SR124 out on my old Alpine amp (that I'd given to a friend when troubleshooting a sub problem on his system), an MRD-M301 (400 watts RMS into a 2 ohm load) and found the SR sounded just as good off the lower amount of power, but the volume level from the sub wasn't anything to get excited about.

I'd recommend getting an amp with some headroom (more power than necessary) to get reasonable volume levels without running the amp into clipping. Buy a reputable amp with more clean power than you think you'll need, then run modest gain settings and exercise self-control with the volume knob.

polkster99 wrote: »

Thanks Greg,so you could not tell a sizable difference beteween 301 and the 605 power,iam also concerned with saving space ,considering mounting amp on sub box,which i dont have the exact demensions on yet.possibly 14x14x14 on a 1.21 cu.box,how about your f 245 what kind of power does it produce on your other speakers?

I could tell a difference. Sound quality was OK off 400 watts RMS, but it didn't get very loud at all- definitely not loud enough to keep up with my front stage. The 600 was a better fit, but I'm still looking at more power. The additional power doesn't affect SQ at low volume levels, but does allow more SQ at higher volumes rather than having your amp run out of steam and produce a distorted, clipped signal.

My MRV-F345 does 84 watts RMS X 4 as per the birth sheet.

What car are you installing in? How many amps does your factory alternator put out?

Unless you plan on listening to the system "flat out" for extended periods, the MRD-M1005 won't be drawing maximum current from your electrical system most of the time.

To give you an idea of what my two amps actually do to the electrical system in my Jeep (fact alt good for 125 amps output IIRC), if I have things cranked right up beyond the point where I can stand listening to the system, the voltmeter barely twitches and no lights dim...that's with zero mods to the electrical system and a "maybe too small Optima Red Top" for a power source. Normal listening levels cause no visible draw to show on the voltmeter. With engine running I get almost 14V at the amplifiers. If I were worried that wasn't enough, I would upgrade "the big 3" wiring under the hood and improve that a bit.

Class D amps (most common sub amps these days) are fairly efficient, more so than a Class A/B like I use for my front speakers. If you were to run two Class A/B amps for front stage/subs, with the sub amp putting out in the vicinity of 1000 watts RMS, I could see a below-par alternator/electrical system getting stressed out with extended high-volume listening. That shouldn't really be the case with a Class D subwoofer amp used in a normal fashion...listening to music at normal levels. If you intend to crank bass heavy music and test tones for extended periods, electrical upgrades will probably be in your future.

If the goal is to run a bone-stock electrical system with a fair amount of amplifier power on tap, check out Alpine's PDX amps- extra efficient and put out a reasonable amount of power with minimal draw.

Guys im also getting the SR 124 DVC sub for my accord, also with a sealed enclosure..

and i was thinking in use the Alpine PDX1.600 AMP, becouse the Alpine PDX amps usually makes more power...my PDX4.100 makes 120WRMS

should i keep with this idea?