Passive radiators for SRS 1.2's

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  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited August 2007
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    heiney9 wrote: »
    I don't have this problem, but why has no one suggested just shifting the position of the PR by a 3-4" and drilling all new holes? Can't do this with tweets, but one could do it with the drivers as well. The leads wouldn't all be symmetrical, but who cares if you get a good tight seal again.

    H9

    It's has been recommeded to me to rotate the PRs and drill new holes. At the time I was installing the newly upgraded crossovers and was chomping at the bit to get them installed and burned in. . . so I took the easy way out, which, as it turns out, worked very well. However, what I did is really not a permanent fix so the fix above, I think, would be more appropriate when time permits.

    One question; why would one want to rotate the drivers and make new holes? The drivers have little threaded anchors that you screw those allen head screws into.
  • shadowofnight
    shadowofnight Posts: 2,735
    edited August 2007
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    You would have to unscrew it to use the toothpicks. I found that with a screw spinning the PR rattles during deep bass passages. What I did was to remove all the screws, do the toothpick trick in all the holes, place two strips of speaker sealer (Parts Express) around the perimeter of the PR and them screw it back in. I was able to really torque the screws tightly and the sealer really held the PR in place. I did this back in June and have not had one bit of problem with the screws coming loose or the PR rattling anymore.

    Yup...What Joe said...just make sure you use hardwood toothpicks. That tape from parts express is really good...I buy it in bulk..use it anytime I open up an enclosure. The original polk seal is awesome ( Yours were virgin and why your PR moved by only pressing one 6 1/2...but after it is compressed once and removed it gets paper thin.
    The first rule of Fight Club is you don't talk about Fight Club
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,092
    edited August 2007
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    One question; why would one want to rotate the drivers and make new holes? The drivers have little threaded anchors that you screw those allen head screws into.

    Wasn't aware of that on some SDA's. I was speaking more for the Monitor series, etc. If I remove the driver (5b's) one more time it may not seat properly next time as there are no threaded anchors in the less expensive Polks.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited August 2007
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    Yup...What Joe said...just make sure you use hardwood toothpicks. That tape from parts express is really good...I buy it in bulk..use it anytime I open up an enclosure. The original polk seal is awesome ( Yours were virgin and why your PR moved by only pressing one 6 1/2...but after it is compressed once and removed it gets paper thin.

    I wasn't speaking of the tape, I was actually taking about that tar like speaker seal. Some people hate it but I found it easy to work with and easy to remove if necessary.

    As a matter of fact I used it to seal my cabinet close when I found that one of the corners had come apart.
  • hearingimpared
    hearingimpared Posts: 21,137
    edited August 2007
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    heiney9 wrote: »
    Wasn't aware of that on some SDA's. I was speaking more for the Monitor series, etc. If I remove the driver (5b's) one more time it may not seat properly next time as there are no threaded anchors in the less expensive Polks.

    H9

    Those anchors are pretty good but if you should force them out of the hole by accident, they are a bear to get back in place the biggest hazzard being that while **** them back in, you can squash them and then it becomes pretty much FUBAR.
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,328
    edited August 2007
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    Lasareath wrote: »
    There's something different about these PR's, I don't know if it's the new seal, the larger screws or the new PR but when I press on the PR the 8 MW's move like they did with the old PR but now if I push on one MW the PR moves as well. this was not the case with the old PR's.

    This a good thing!!! Your bass response should be a little better. What do you hear Sal?
    Carl