source for inductors?

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billbillw
billbillw Posts: 6,213
edited June 2007 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Just did a re-build on my Mirage crossovers. Changed all the caps and resistors (about 21 parts in each crossover!)

Before the rebuild, I noticed the response out of the woofers was not the same, one woofer was passing noticeably more midrange. I figured the coils don't go bad, gotta be the caps, might as well change them all, along with the resistors, that way everything is fresh and to spec. Well, I gave them a listen last night and I'm still hearing more midrange out of one woofer than the other. When I test this, I only have the woofer attached (removed bi-wire jumpers).

The network for low-pass is a simple 2nd order, with a single laminated I-core inductor (4.2mH) and a total 85uF in shunt capacitors. I think the driver measures 4 ohm with a multimeter, but the nominal value may be higher since the whole system is supposed to be a 6 ohm nominal speaker.

So, its gotta be a bad coil in one, right?

So, the original schematic from Mirage shows a laminated iron core inductor, 4.2mH and ~0.6ohms resistance, pretty sure its 18awg. I'm having a helluva time finding a replacement. Nothing available from Mirage, especially now that Klipsch has absorbed API.

Any ideas on where to find a suitable replacement?

I've thought about putting 2 in series to obtain the correct inductance value, but then I read about "mutual inductance" if they are placed close together. Is this something I should be concerned about?

I was thinking a 4.0 I-core and a .2 air core (or something along that line).

Or, if anybody has the modeling capabilities, could you tell me how much the crossover frequency would change if I went with a 4.0mH or 4.5mH coil?
.
For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
Post edited by billbillw on

Comments

  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited May 2007
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    Humm,I doubt the coil is bad but if you can find someone with an LCR meter you could verify they both have the same value.Are you certain the shunt cap is connected?If it wasn't then that would give more midrange output.Did you try swapping woofers to see if it follows the driver.?
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited May 2007
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    You are looking at about a 1% difference using just the 4.0. Most inductors (especially the lower cost iron cores) are 5% tolerance. I would just get the 4.0 air core from Parts express, and be done with it. I would get the Erse 18ga perfect layer's for $18.42 a piece . The DCR is very low for an air core which helps keep your crossover in spec, and they are 2% tolerance.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited May 2007
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    I would try Parts Express.
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  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,213
    edited May 2007
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    Thanks for the ideas guys.
    Humm,I doubt the coil is bad but if you can find someone with an LCR meter you could verify they both have the same value.Are you certain the shunt cap is connected?If it wasn't then that would give more midrange output.Did you try swapping woofers to see if it follows the driver.?

    Ok, GV, If you see my original post, I just replaced all the caps in the crossover, so yes, the shunt caps are connected, no doubt. I actually moved the crossover from one side to the other (easier than swaping the woofer, and the problem definetly follows the crossover, so its not the woofer or any internal cabinet wiring either.

    I originally thought there was no way a coil would go bad, but if you think about it, if they overheat from excess current, and the varnish burns off, the coils get shorted, the current path is changed, and the inductance value would change. In this setup, there really is no other explanation.
    I would try Parts Express.

    Appadv, Of course, that was the 1st place I looked. THey have 4.0 and 4.5, but no 4.2.
    You are looking at about a 1% difference using just the 4.0. Most inductors (especially the lower cost iron cores) are 5% tolerance. I would just get the 4.0 air core from Parts express, and be done with it. I would get the Erse 18ga perfect layer's for $18.42 a piece . The DCR is very low for an air core which helps keep your crossover in spec, and they are 2% tolerance.

    Ben, I think your math is off. A 4.0 would be 4.8% difference. Yes I know they are 5% spec'd, but you will find that in practice, they are usually much closer to the spec'd value. Also, I don't have room for a 4.0 air core, they are much to large to fit in this crossover. See the pic for an idea of how tight things are. The dimensions of the board fit exactly within the base of the speaker and have no room to go outside the footprint. That's probably why they went with the iron core in the first place. The Erse aircore is 3" diameter, compared to the original, which is about 1.5"

    I think you will find that iron core coils will have a lower DCR due to a shorter length of coils. They are more efficent for a given winding.

    I've pretty much gotta find an iron core. Either I will have to settle for a 4.0 or 4.5, or I'll have to put a small air core in series.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited May 2007
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    billbillw wrote: »
    Thanks for the ideas guys.
    Ben, I think your math is off. A 4.0 would be 4.8% difference.
    Me fail math that unpossable:o
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited May 2007
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    Are there any other components such an RC combo across the voicecoil?If not then it has to be the coil.here is a link that may be helful. http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?exact_match=yes&product=SL&cart_id=8856312.12379
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  • jcaut
    jcaut Posts: 1,849
    edited May 2007
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    The inductors would be one of the last things that would be damaged, just because of the time required to heat them up so severely, so I seriously doubt that you have a bad coil. I re-read, and now see that the problem existed before the initial rebuild, so I don't know what could be causing it.

    If you need to replace the 4.2, buy a 4.5, find someone with an LCR meter, and unwind until you get to 4.2. I'm pretty sure Madisound will still wind you a custom coil, also.

    Jason
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,213
    edited May 2007
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    jcaut wrote: »
    The inductors would be one of the last things that would be damaged, just because of the time required to heat them up so severely, so I seriously doubt that you have a bad coil. If it was okay before the initial rebuild, then something else is causing the problem, IMO.

    If you need to replace the 4.2, buy a 4.5, find someone with an LCR meter, and unwind until you get to 4.2. I'm pretty sure Madisound will still wind you a custom coil, also.

    Jason

    Jason,
    The problem was there before the rebuild; it was the main reason I decided to go ahead with the rebuild.
    Unfortunately, the problem is still there after the rebuild. I've replaced all the other parts in the Low pass circuit (which is wired independent of the mid/high crossover), the problem is not with the woofers or the cabinet wiring, therefore, there is nothing else that could possibly be wrong. Believe me, I tried everything else, short of testing the coils with an LCR meter. The coils are not producing the same inductance value for whatever reason. They are cheap enough, its a fairly simple swap.

    I should mention, this is not a drastic problem. The speakers sound great, but like most of us, I'm a perfectionist and knowing that the woofers are not producing the same response on each side is driving me batty. I just want them to sound as good or better than the original designers at Mirage intended.


    I did some modeling today using some software and there really isn't much of a difference by using the 4.0mH coil. I'll probably go with the Erse Super Q from P.E.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • jcaut
    jcaut Posts: 1,849
    edited May 2007
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    Bill,

    Sorry, I must have looked again at this, just about the time you posted. I see that this was the problem you were trying to fix in the first place.

    You're probably right that the 4.0mH would be fine. I presume that you'd replace the inductors on both speakers? If it were me, I'd be tempted to try and measure the inductors that are there first, just to see if they are the same, within spec. You know, just to see what's going on. Maybe I'm cheap, but I'd hate to spend that much on inductors without proof that one was bad. Even if they're just at opposite ends of tolerance, if you had an LCR meter available perhaps you could unwind one of them to match the other. Have you tried measuring resistance across the coils on each crossover? I would think that a problem great enough to change the inductance enough to be audible would cause a measurable change in DC resistance.

    Those Super Q inductors are quite large, also, so check to make sure they'll fit.

    Jason
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,213
    edited May 2007
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    Jason, I edited my post and added some interesting photos. I haven't bothered to measure the resistance. I may do so next time I have them appart, but that will probably be when I replace the with the new parts, and of course, YES, I will be replacing both. That's another reason why I did the rebuild of the crossover. I noticed some of the caps were not the same one each side. One cap in the tweeter had been replaced with a different type of cap and virtually none of the low pass shunt caps were the same. I couldn't tell what was original and what wasn't. This is why I thought at first that the woofer problem was due solely to the shunt caps not being matched. I was wrong about that.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • jcaut
    jcaut Posts: 1,849
    edited May 2007
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    Sorry about all the editing.

    Wow. I see. Somebody's been blowing up some capacitors.
    Looking at that, there's no telling just what's going on there. I still think it'd be awfully difficult to hurt the inductors, but who knows? Good luck with it!

    Jason
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited May 2007
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    Its real hard to find a cheap MM that will read inductance. You could measure the ohms, and that would give you a fair idea. Or just buy new inductors. I really would try to make the air cores fit. At anything but a sub woofer frequency air cores are better IMO.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,213
    edited May 2007
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    ben62670 wrote: »
    Its real hard to find a cheap MM that will read inductance. You could measure the ohms, and that would give you a fair idea. Or just buy new inductors. I really would try to make the air cores fit. At anything but a sub woofer frequency air cores are better IMO.

    It seems that some schools of thought have changed in regards to using aircore, especially when compared to the ERSE Super Q.

    VMPS claims to use them in their speakers, read the "crossover" section at this page:

    http://www.vmpsaudio.com/technical.htm
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited May 2007
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    Did you try swapping the woofers? Or did I miss that post?
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  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,213
    edited May 2007
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    jakelm wrote: »
    Did you try swapping the woofers? Or did I miss that post?

    You missed it above. I actually swapped the crossover from one side to the other and the problem followed the crossover. This eliminated both the woofer(s) and possible cabinet wiring problems.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited May 2007
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    billbillw wrote: »
    You missed it above. I actually swapped the crossover from one side to the other and the problem followed the crossover. This eliminated both the woofer(s) and possible cabinet wiring problems.


    It is just so rare that an inductor goes bad. I have seen a burned board where there was a short which cause the tweeter to be much louder. The short actually bypassed the resistors on the board, thus giving a non resistive signal to the tweeter. I'm sure the same could happen with the midbass. Or even a bad solder joint, or a solder that touched 2 parts of the board.

    But I'm sure you checked the board already.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • Jockos
    Jockos Posts: 310
    edited May 2007
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    Not to hijack your thread but I have a similar problem with my 5b's. One of the inductors was repaired about a year ago but the speaker sounds thin and shrill compared to my other one. Tried swapping another spare tweeter but same result. Sounds like my 6 in driver is putting out too much highs. I'm going to recap. the x-over and see if that helps. Parts express does sell a LCR meter for $95. I'll be watching your situation closely.

    Jockos
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,213
    edited June 2007
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    Well, it took awhile to finish up this project, but today I finally got around to replacing the inductors on my Mirage crossover's low pass filter for the bass driver. After the change, it was clear that the inductors were definitely the problem. After replacement, both channels sound identical now. I ended up using the Erse SuperQ in a 4.0 mH size. Now I can finally enjoy the M3 sound as they were meant to be. I'm sure the entire crossover needs to be burned in, so there should only be better things to come. But, I can already say that the midrange is much cleaner. Previously, with one of the bass drivers passing too much midrange, there was some harshness especially on piano that is now gone.

    In hindsight, I can see that one of the old inductors looked a little brown and some of the glue had turned dark as if it was over heated. The board on that inductor came from showed some browning too. Its odd, the tweeter section on one side was burned out, and the bass on the other channel was burned. They must have been bi-amping and ran into some problems.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited June 2007
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    Great to hear you got them fixed.They are great sounding speakers and along with their big brother the M1 were ground breaking products when they were first introduced.A few other companies started to copy their bipole design.
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  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited June 2007
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    digikey.com
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,213
    edited June 2007
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    digikey.com

    ???? Thanks for the insightful post. :confused:

    If you read the thread, you'd see the problem was already solved. Also, Digikey does not have a 4.2mH iron core inductor that is designed for a crossover. I checked there long ago.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited June 2007
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    read the first page, not the whole thread... ''' ooo bad me '''

    however now that you mention what you were exactly searching for, why a ferrous core? if its a space / packaging issue, then it makes sense, but otherwise the best thing you can use (and really isn't any huge price difference) is an air core.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,213
    edited June 2007
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    read the first page, not the whole thread... ''' ooo bad me '''

    however now that you mention what you were exactly searching for, why a ferrous core? if its a space / packaging issue, then it makes sense, but otherwise the best thing you can use (and really isn't any huge price difference) is an air core.

    Again, read the thread before you post. Smallest aircore was 3", I only had 1.5" to work with.
    For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited June 2007
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    Kim, $20 for a 16 awg air core ... that's a SUPERB price.

    **adds solen to his list of 'places to get stuff'**
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge