RT1000p owners

scottvamp
scottvamp Posts: 3,277
edited January 2003 in Speakers
I wanted to get rid of some of my LFE "daisy chaining". My manual is packed away and I am having a hard time downloading it. If i use the speaker IN method to signal the subwoofer onboard do I just simply *make to small wire runs from the speaker wire post to the speaker IN on the subwoofer portion*???? If so - how well has this worked for ya.
Thanks!!!
Post edited by scottvamp on

Comments

  • schumach
    schumach Posts: 199
    edited January 2003
    The speaker IN ports are for a line level signal only. If you are going to use the speaker wire you will need to connect the binding post together, this way the voltage is dropped down to line level. The manual for the 1000i is the same, which can be downloaded. If you have a problem downloading it let me know I can email it to you. I hope this helps.

    How do you currently have your RT1000p speakers hooked up? I am curious.
  • scottvamp
    scottvamp Posts: 3,277
    edited January 2003
    If you are going to use the speaker wire you will need to connect the binding post together, this way the voltage is dropped down to line level.
    This is what I needed to know. Wanted to mack sure. Now that I look again there were jumpers there originaly. High level input I have not used in a long time. What ever HLI means anyway.
    How do you currently have your RT1000p speakers hooked up? I am curious.
    As I said - I have the hooked up to the LFE using the rca inputs.
    Ther is one IN and one OUT to go the other speaker.

    Now this brings up another question:
    If a person is using the "high level input" - then you would have NO choice but to set speakers to LARGE because set to small the "signal" would drop most bass frequences and the subs would be useless. Right? That is why I had them hooked up LFE method - but now I am experimenting abit. I found a better method to get a stronger signal to my other 2 subs.
    Let me know???
  • schumach
    schumach Posts: 199
    edited January 2003
    You are correct in saying if the speakers are set to small, without using the LFE port on the receiver the sub portion of the speaker would not be utilized. I don't have any separate sub (WAF) so I really cannot tell you the best way to hook these speakers up using separate subs. I can tell you the way I have found best for me: 1- Set the fronts to large 2- Connected the subs from the 1000's to the R&L line level inputs on the receiver (left sub to left line level and right to right). 3- Set the sub volume on the speakers using AVIA. I calibrated the left front sub for the left speaker only and the right front on the right. All other speakers seem to be very close in reference of high side calibration and the lows (sub) when I did this. Hope this clear enough.

    Something you might try is setting up the speakers like I have it or using the binding post. Turn the power on the subs off (Do not change the receiver to "NO" for subs) set fronts to large. Calibrate the fronts like I explained in step 3 above before doing the separate subs. Just thought I would through out a suggestion. Good luck.
  • scottvamp
    scottvamp Posts: 3,277
    edited January 2003
    Connected the subs from the 1000's to the R&L line level inputs on the receiver (left sub to left line level and right to right).
    Ya, that is how I would like to do it but my speakers are at the front of my HT and the reciever is in the back. The runs are just too long.
    Thanks for the help!!!!
  • schumach
    schumach Posts: 199
    edited January 2003
    Got the picture now. Using the binding post would be your best option. You can still try to set them up as explained in the second part of my last post.
  • scottvamp
    scottvamp Posts: 3,277
    edited January 2003
    Just tryed using the line in and it worked well. Even set to small there is little or no diffence in the internal sub. They play well either way - to my surprize. The 1000's just sound much better set to small - period.
    Now I found a new problem on one of my 1000's there was there crackling sound - like the speaker was blown on the sub - come to find out - the cheap back plate they use is vibrating to hell when the internal sub hits. When played loud it is very audiable. I push my hand against it and it stops. So now I have to find a way to stablize it.:confused:
  • schumach
    schumach Posts: 199
    edited January 2003
    If you are getting sound out of the sub with the speakers set to small and using the receiver R&L line levels you have go something strange going on.
  • scottvamp
    scottvamp Posts: 3,277
    edited January 2003
    No really it depends on the crossover point in the speaker. That little 6.5 was not designed to produces very low bass. Not sure what the frequency cut off point for "small" is but it is still enough to make little difference in the sound (on the internal sub). I co-located my subs and not much change but still plenty of clean low end. About 500 watts worth. I fixed the speaker cabinat problem - the 1000's back plate is just "glued" on and over the years came loose. I used some 5/8 brad nails in my staple gun and it worked perfect.
    Anyway I am by far not a rookie by all means - I was just wondering how other RT1000p owners were running there speakers for HT purposes. Wanted to experiement and it worked out well.
    I don't have any separate sub (WAF) so I really cannot tell you the best way to hook these speakers up using separate subs.
    You are really missing out on the full HT/music experience. You system is missing all the low end frequences that make many movies reach out and grab ya.;)
  • VE6OHV
    VE6OHV Posts: 119
    edited January 2003
    I have my RT1000p's subs running as if bi-wired using banana plugs, directly from the right and left main ouputs on the reciver. The main speakers are set to "large" with the cross over freq. set to 100hz. Being as we have a similar sut-up with a couple of extra subs, here is what I found works well for me.

    Mains: RT1000p's set to large, cross over @ 100hz
    Center: CSI400 set to small
    Side surrounds: RT35I's set to small
    Rear Centers: S/D bookshelves (probably as old as MX :)
    Subs: Tympani 15" 350w front firing non-ported, and a JBL (Modified) 10" PSW1000 (wattage unknown), both cross overs set a blonde one over 100hz.
    Reciver: Denon avr1803

    After exchanging the 15" to fix the problem with harmonic distortion (as per Dr. Spec). I placed both subs on the main wall spaced unevenly from each other. I found that this works well for me, I hope this helps. The few of us RTp owners have to stic together......
  • scottvamp
    scottvamp Posts: 3,277
    edited January 2003
    VE6OHV, thanks for the input. I am happy with the new arrangment. The rt1000p's hooked directly from the right and left main ouputs on the reciever is the way to go but with my speaker distance from the reciever I can't do it. Believe it or not the speaker line works very well on these perticuliar speakers.
    To me small sounds much better than large - almost like night and day. But every situation is different.
    Ya, the RTp club!!!!!!!!
  • schumach
    schumach Posts: 199
    edited January 2003
    The cross over for the RT1000p sub is a fixed 80Hz. If the speaker is set to small any frequency lower than the receiver cutoff point will never make it to the speaker, it will be directed to the separate sub. Most receivers cutoff at 80 or 100Hz, that is why I am surprised you are still hearing sound from the sub. The 6.5" mid-driver should not be effected either way (large or small). If the receiver is sending a signal of 100Hz and below to the powered sub in the RT1000p, the only sound that is reproduced is that below 80Hz.

    Scott in no way do I think you are an amateur in this field and I apologize if I made it sound that way, because I am no means an expert.
  • scottvamp
    scottvamp Posts: 3,277
    edited January 2003
    schumach, its all good man. Thanks for your input. You notice alot not sub form these rt1000p's than i would because you are not running any other subs. I am use to having much more bass there for I am not as aware of the bass that the internal subs are producing. I put my had at the bottom of the speaker (power port area) and there is alot of air moving either way. Enough even on small to make that back panel vibrate to hell. That is fine with me because my 2 other subs are taking care of the rest of the bass and I eliminated the extra lfe cables. Sweet!!!!!
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 2,962
    edited January 2003
    Hey Scott,
    Thanks for the post on the Rotel 1098 thread. I started looking at this forum a couple of months ago (used Home Theater Forum for a while longer) when in search of the definitive answer about whether the RT1000p or RT1000i speakers can be bi-wired. The RT1000p speakers were the first really good pair of speakers I bought 4 or 5 years ago. It sounds like you've solved your problem from the posts above.

    I'll offer my own experience with the speakers--not sure if it helps but here goes. I've also addressed your question from the other thread partially at the end about how I arrived at this point with my system.

    Regarding the RT1000p speakers, I first tried using the line level inputs from the subwoofer pre-out on an Onkyo receiver (model 595 hissing version). I think the output level from the pre-out was weak, so the speakers didn't sound as good as just running speaker wire with the jumpers in place. I bought a subwoofer after a year or so and used the line level to go to the subwoofer. Much improved the system. Around the same time I tried bi-wiring and couldn't tell much if any difference. After buying a pair of RT1000i speakers, I moved the RT1000p speakers to the back of the room to use as full range surrounds because I was just getting into DVD-Audio, and 5 channel stereo on a Yamaha receiver. I switched the connections one more time. As suggested in the manual, I ran speaker wire from the receiver to the subwoofer and then to the RT1000i speakers in front. The RT1000p speakers in the rear were connected with a 25-30 ft run of wire to each speaker. I set all speakers to large, with the receiver setting as if there was no subwoofer. After tinkering with the set-ups for a couple of years, this was what sounded best to me for 5 channel stereo, DVD-Audio and 5.1 surround.

    2 channel stereo was where I not satisfied, so starting in October last year I went on an upgrade blitz. I've started to listen to heavier music again after being more interested in jazz for a while. I haven't quite started listening to Black Sabbath again (hair metal ruined my interest for more than a decade) but the system seemed lacking when listening to music like Eric Clapton, Radiohead, Flower Kings, Spock's Beard, Marillion (Fish- era), Scorpions, Neal Young, Kylie Minogue (just kidding!), Dream Theater, etc. It did still sound great when I let a girlfriend listen to stuff like Celine Dion and Charlotte Church in 5 channel mode. I got the RTi150 speakers after hearing them at Circuit City with a decent sales guy who knows his stuff. I traded in the RT1000i speakers and got he $200 discount too. Next, I wanted to boost the power because the Yamaha receiver had pre-outs and a rather weak, tinny sound in two channel mode. I bought the Rotel amplifier, which caused the speakers to hum when connected to the Yamaha receiver (HTR-5280). Not a ground loop problem though. The amplifier dramatically improved music. I tried a Sony STR-DA4ES receiver--absolute silence with no inputs running, but brutally harsh with music. I decided to get the Denon receiver instead of the Rotel 1066 pre/pro. Reason was less cost and extra amplification I can use for the back surround channels. Now the best words I can use to describe everything is smooth and detailed. I have been debating using the Rotel amplification only for the front soundstage, and using the Denon amplification for the left/right and back surrounds. Haven't tried it yet though. The RT1000p speakers are still going strong, still wired only with speaker wire, and still set to large. I am using the subwoofer from the pre-out now.
    1. Polk LSiM-707, LSiM-704C, LSiM-702FX; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A31 and A23 amps; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Parasound JC2 and JC5; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Marantz SA8004 SACD; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio P1000; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Anthem Pre-2L SE; Parasound A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; PS Audio Power Director 4.7; MIT S3 cables
  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 2,962
    edited January 2003
    Scott,
    By the way, your theater looks great on the pictures you posted in the showcase.
    1. Polk LSiM-707, LSiM-704C, LSiM-702FX; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A31 and A23 amps; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Parasound JC2 and JC5; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Marantz SA8004 SACD; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio P1000; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Anthem Pre-2L SE; Parasound A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; PS Audio Power Director 4.7; MIT S3 cables
  • scottvamp
    scottvamp Posts: 3,277
    edited January 2003
    Emlyn, thanks for the info on your setup. Sounds like you are having a blast with it and got some good A/V knowledge.
    And thanks for the kind words on my HT - those picks are out of date - reminds me that I should get my showcase updated. Here is a newer pick of my front stage. Like to see some pics of yours sometime. Nice talking to ya!!!!
  • VE6OHV
    VE6OHV Posts: 119
    edited January 2003
    Scott - you said that the run of cable to your speakers is too long? I don't get that, in my set-up I have the equivelant to running the binding post jumpers across both sets of terminals with just one set of speaker inputs.

    As far as the 80hz fixed cross over in the RT1000p line - I understood that that was only effective when you disconnect the binding post jumpers between the line level inputs and are running a seperate LFE connection..... When the binding post jumpers are in place then the cross-over is defeated....... can anyone confirm this?

    I also have been playing with the size setting of the RTp's and I did find a HUGE improvement in sound when set to "Small". (an YES the 6.5" sub does work when set to small) Thanks Scott I never would have thought of it.
  • scottvamp
    scottvamp Posts: 3,277
    edited January 2003
    Scott - you said that the run of cable to your speakers is too long? I don't get that, in my set-up I have the equivelant to running the binding post jumpers across both sets of terminals with just one set of speaker inputs.
    Not sure what u are saying??? If i were to use the preouts on my reciever that is in the back of my HT I would not have the rca long enough and the justification to do so. I would need two runs of rca cables - 1 at 25 foot and one at 40 foot. That is alot of quality rca. When about 10 inches of speaker wire solved the whole issue.

    I also have been playing with the size setting of the RTp's and I did find a HUGE improvement in sound when set to "Small". (an YES the 6.5" sub does work when set to small) Thanks Scott I never would have thought of it.
    Told ya so!!!!!! Hey , we both learned something today about out rt1000p's. Nice!!!!:D
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