7B crossover upgrade parts
Jonesy
Posts: 189
I know there is a fairly standard parts list for this upgrade but I have a question for the more technically advanced than I (which is pretty much anyone).
Resistors.....This seems to be the preferred part. However, due to proximity I'd like to use Madisound parts. These two resistors appear to have different construction......wirewound and metal oxide film.
Would there be a performance difference between any of these? Is one a complete no-no. Does it not matter at all? Should I stick both up me yahoo, quit sweating the small stuff and get on with it?
Thanks.
Resistors.....This seems to be the preferred part. However, due to proximity I'd like to use Madisound parts. These two resistors appear to have different construction......wirewound and metal oxide film.
Would there be a performance difference between any of these? Is one a complete no-no. Does it not matter at all? Should I stick both up me yahoo, quit sweating the small stuff and get on with it?
Thanks.
Post edited by Jonesy on
Comments
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I like the fact that the Mills are non inductive, and 1% tolerence. I don't like the ceramic kind; do to the fact that the ceramic insulates the resistor. When resistors get hot they tend to lose their resistance. Another reason I chose the Mills is that I don't want to be guessing later on down the road if I should have waited for the Mills. Another reason I chose the Mills is 99 out of 100 Polkies chose Mills.:D
Enjoy
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
I was thinking about this for a little while. Now to be a little blunt. Why replace crap with crap? I really don't know how much of a difference replacing the resistors really makes because I did the caps at the same time. I would either test the stock ones, or buy the Mills.
Enjoy your project. Looking forward to hearing reviews.
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Jonesy,
I would go with the wire wound. It is low inductance, 5% tolerence.
Having said that, I agree with Ben's suggestions. Partsexpress or Sonicraft will have them to you in a couple of days. The Mills cost about $2.50 which is twice the Madison ones, but it's better tolerence, probably better build. In either case you can use the 5 watt.
What kind of caps are you going to buy? Good luck!Carl -
I agree with Ben's 2nd post, test the stock, if they aren't out of spec'....no "need" for replacement. If you want to upgrade them, well, that's up to you and the gates are wide open.
I'd love to read a review of the bat/human that can tell the difference between a wire wound or a metal oxide, with a stock XO.
Mills definetly makes high quality/high tolerance products, but so do a few other manufacturers. Realize that Mills begat Mills begat Mills....its really just a cycle of suggestion and perspective.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
I'd love to read a review of the bat/human that can tell the difference between a wire wound or a metal oxide, with a stock XO.
That's really what I was after. Thanks. I have no particular loyalty to a distrubutor or brand. I'm just lazy and picking up parts from Madisound for cash, as far as I'm concerned, is easier than ordering online with a CC and waiting. No big deal. If there is a definitive consensus that Mills is superior then I may go that route. If it's just been done because it's been done then maybe I'll try the other wirewound.....or maybe the metal film, I dunno. I do like the sentiment from someone in another thread somehere...."try something different" I believe it was.
Regardless, I'm getting the feeling that it really won't matter that much in real world conditions and the longer I screw around wondering about the differences the longer it'll be until it's done. -
They utilize an Alumina ceramic core, a nickel chromium element, silver plated copper end caps and tinned copper leads. The all welded construction greatly enhances frequency response. These 1% precision (non-inductive) resistors, offer unsurpassed performance over conventional wire wound resistors.
Says everything you need to know about why they are better.I'm getting the feeling that it really won't matter that much in real world conditions
If you really feel that way, just leave the crossovers alone.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Jonesy - Just do it. I'm not trying to discourage you, why does that sound familiar?, but use different components if possible....be an individual.
F1Nut has done some serious upgrades on some of his gear, and even tho' he's old, he has some good ears. There is a benefit to quality components.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
The Mills is the way to go. It makes a difference. The reason is because the resistor is actually in the signal path. If there is anyway possible to get the Mills, do it. Now that being said, I'm going to go out on a limb and slightly disagree with Ben and F1 and say if the Eagles are the only ones you have access to they will still be better than the 20+ year old original sand type resistor. But the Mills is the ONE.
I live in Rockford and the main reason I didn't go with Madisound was because they didn't carry the Mills. I got all my parts from Parts Express (in Ohio) and shipping was about $5.50 USPS Proirity mail. So what it comes down to is if it's worth an extra $5-6, and I say absolutely. Madison isn't that much farther away than Rockford.
I will be posting my pics within the next hour so if you want to see some visuals, stay tuned.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul! -
Started a new thread in the DIY Mods forum
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?p=613756#post613756"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Puritan Audio PSM136 Pwr Condtioner & Classic PC's | Legend L600 | Roon Nucleus 1 w/LPS - Tubes add soul!
