Bi-wiring Recommended!

If you wanna beleive that article, be my guest. I once had the same thought. My mind was changed.

Those that don't know, don't know that they don't know...

I was referring to the wire gauge article. For an entry level set up 16 gauge may be all that is needed, but as one moves up the audio ladder wire begins to make a bigger difference and it involves more than the gauge. Having said that, don't take my word for it, nor should you take that article as the gospel truth, it's not. It's something you have to experience for yourself.

See my previous comment.

JK, 16 gauge lamp cord may work just fine in your set up, but it doesn't even come close to working in mine.

I never said it was false. I said it should not be taken as the gospel truth and I stand by that comment.

*** My only question would be....... "Is 5% the correct number when determining max. wire resistance /speaker performance'.

The correct answer would be what sounds best with your gear. As I stated previously, for entry level gear, lamp cord may be all one needs to be happy. However, when you get into better gear, lamp cord or wire measured by gauge alone (AWG table) is woefully inadequate at bringing out the best your set up has to offer.

I'll put it another way. If you are stuck on specs and measurements as your guide to what sounds good or what should sound good, you are in the wrong hobby.

Didn't mean to start a flame war. Hey, if expensive, thick speaker wire makes you happy, fill your boots! I'm using the money I saved with cheap, tiny wire to buy big bottles of ale! To each their own...;-)

Actually, the 18 gauge wire I'm using is 25 years old and I just upgraded from RadioShack Realistic speakers that were about the same age to the RTi10s. Sure, the RTi10s sound good. I was surprised, though, by how little better they sound than my old RadioShack specials. Hmm, "little better", is that proper grammar?

Oh oh, think I just started another flame war....

http://www.polkaudio.com/homeaudio/products/systems/?helpid=55

MillerLiteScott wrote:

I will go down to Sound Scape this coming week. I like fact that it is family owned.

I stopped in on Tuesday, the name is one word.

Anyway, get a demo on the big Quads powered by the CJ tube amp.

I went to Soundscape on Tuesday and demoed some Subs. I am going to get a SVS though. I am only allowed to go into the first room on the right as you walk in. I went to Gramaphone yesterday and man they have some equipment in there. Definitely out of my range.

Scott

Scott, I didn't see you in there...lol. What do you mean you are only allowed to go into the room on the right???

samiam wrote:

...removed the crummy brass posts?...

You only remove the "Brass Jumpers" for bi-wiring (do not remove the binding posts).

Take a deep breath, it may be worth reading

I started down the path of bi-wiring, which to me, made no difference when I tried it other than cost me $40 more per wire. Then I thought about bi-amping until I started reading about Active and passive crossovers. Most speakers have a passive crossovers built in them, and if you remove it like some do, your speaker warranty is voided. Apparently, unless you bypass the internal crossover, you will get minimal benefits considering the costs incurred to have a biamped setup.

Something I saw from the HT Spot forum regarding Bi-Wire \ bi-amping...

"The only thing bi-wiring does is put more copper between the amp and speaker. You can accomplish the same thing by using a heavier gauge wire. As already mentioned, biamping does not help if you are using speakers with an internal passive crossover (most speakers). Some people will actually go so far as to remove the passive crossover and put an electronic crossover from someone like Beringer between the preamp and two or three amplifiers that then drive the speaker. This can provide excellent results, but you have to know what you are doing and it is more complexity than most people want to deal with. "

"Pikers is correct. If you don’t bypass the internal crossover within each speaker, you’re only benefiting from a fraction of what you could be getting. Many, if not all mid and high end speakers made today are bi-wireable. I don’t think there are any, even audiophile grade that are active bi-amp ready because they all have internal crossovers. Removing the bridges between the terminals on the speakers does not bypass the internal crossover. To get full benefit from your bi-amping, you need to physically bypass the internal passive crossover. Be forewarned however, this often voids any warranties.

"Ethan_Winer is also correct in that bi-wiring is a complete waste of time regardless of what a few people claim to hear. Salespeople will tell you there’s a difference because they want to sell you more wire. And manufacturers make their speakers bi-wireable simply to keep up with the Jones’s. As far as I know, there simply isn’t any quantifiable data that supports the bi-wire claims. It’s all false perception and sales hype. "

Here is the link to the above information.

http://www.hometheaterspot.com/htsthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB5&Number=778129&Searchpage=1&Main=777488&Words=bi-amping&topic=&Search=true#Post778129

Ok first post, but it's important because I joined the forum to discuss this. I'm a newb to stereos, I'm no audiophile. I've got the RTi6's with PSW10 and Yamaha RX-797. I bought 20 gauge cable not knowing the difference, but my speakers are right next to the amp with short lengths of wire.

Anyway, I first set it up with the brass jumpers, but later bi-wired (not even knowing that was possible unti I got these speakers) and I did hear a big difference. The highs are much crisper and the midrange improved to say the least. I did it bare wired and I don't know how crappy my wiring skills are, but I've got what seems to be totally clear sound. I don't see how this would be possible with banana plugs. I don't know if bi-amping is even worth it for my casual needs. It's definitely very good as it sits and is the best stereo setup I've ever heard for under $1000.