Crossovers

VR3 is the guru for xover rebuilds.

Anyway, as Gardenstater said Many have rebuilt by following what is there and replacing components. Pop the xover out, note values of components needed. Sometimes you'll find a 34uf capacitor and can only get a 33uf. That is well within the tolerance range. It tweeter cap isn't marked, there are schematics here that can help. Extreme builds will replace inductors, wiring and binding posts. Dynamat driver and passive radiator baskets.

You can spend a little or a lot on capacitor upgrades. It's worth it to improve quality over what you are removing. You use Bipolar (non-polarized) capacitors. There are plenty of threads here in the DIY section and capacitor comparisons done on web sites to help one choose. Mills or better 1% tolerance resistors are typically used to replace the old ones. When purchasing capacitors/resistors, spend the extra buck or two per pair for matching. That way the values used in each speaker are closely matched.

Folks will typically remove the tweeter protection poly-switch and increase resistor value by .5 ohm to compensate for its removal. Tweeter upgrades are commonly done to replace SL2000 and other tweeters. Keep the Peerless tweeters. Some will remove fuses, just jumper with a soldered wire, or bypass them.

If you DIY take pics before disassembling noting wire colors, polarity. For example, you find only black and white wires will be connected to both the tweeter and driver. Wrap a piece of tape around wires and note what it connects to. You can also figure it out by where wires attach to xover/capacitor value. Drivers will typically have a color dot on basket for positive. You'll want to connect all wires properly upon reassembly.