Monitor 10As wires from crossovers to drivers

Gardenstater · May 18

He'll(?) be OK as long as he goes with the Dormans. They seem to be a push fit for the most part. Couple licks with a file worst case scenario.

Those other ones I have you have to file the tabs.

VSAT88 · May 18

Used those Doorman on a set of Klipsch KLF 10's that came to me with bad, horrible fast ons crimped 1/2 **** on. Worked perfectly on the horn section.

Lalala · May 22

It almost seems like it would be easier just to solder wires to drivers again, though that would be annoying if I have to replace one again

Gardenstater · May 22

You can do a short pigtail soldered at the driver and then a male/female pair of fastons or even pin connectors are also available I believe, like the ones that are inside the molex connectors Polk uses. If you do the pigtail with fastons, make sure you put a male on the end of the pigtail, not the female.

Lalala · May 22

Gardenstater wrote: »

You can do a short pigtail soldered at the driver and then a male/female pair of fastons or even pin connectors are also available I believe, like the ones that are inside the molex connectors Polk uses. If you do the pigtail with fastons, make sure you put a male on the end of the pigtail, not the female.

can I make this myself by cutting a short wire stripping both ends, soldering one end to the driver and putting a male faston and then connecting to a female faston on the the longer wire from the crossover/other driver?

Gardenstater · May 22

Lalala wrote: »

Gardenstater wrote: »

You can do a short pigtail soldered at the driver and then a male/female pair of fastons or even pin connectors are also available I believe, like the ones that are inside the molex connectors Polk uses. If you do the pigtail with fastons, make sure you put a male on the end of the pigtail, not the female.

can I make this myself by cutting a short wire stripping both ends, soldering one end to the driver and putting a male faston and then connecting to a female faston on the the longer wire from the crossover/other driver?

Yes that's what I'm saying. You can use a high quality wire of your choice and a good solder like Cardas Quad Eutectic or other.

Here ya go. Get these male fastons from DigiKey which are stated to be tin plated copper (0.187 wide x 0.020 thick) and get the gold plated 0.187 Dormans. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/3m/MVU14-187DMK/31382

But I don't think you will find that fitting the Dormans directly is a huge insurmountable problem. All you need to do worst case scenario is file the tab width down ever so slightly.

PS: I haven't experienced the Dormans loosening up over time and haven't heard anyone else report that they did. If they do, then don't use them.

Lalala · May 22

Gardenstater wrote: »

Lalala wrote: »

Gardenstater wrote: »

You can do a short pigtail soldered at the driver and then a male/female pair of fastons or even pin connectors are also available I believe, like the ones that are inside the molex connectors Polk uses. If you do the pigtail with fastons, make sure you put a male on the end of the pigtail, not the female.

can I make this myself by cutting a short wire stripping both ends, soldering one end to the driver and putting a male faston and then connecting to a female faston on the the longer wire from the crossover/other driver?

Yes that's what I'm saying. You can use a high quality wire of your choice and a good solder like Cardas Quad Eutectic or other.

Here ya go. Get these male fastons from DigiKey which are stated to be tin plated copper (0.187 wide x 0.020 thick) and get the gold plated 0.187 Dormans. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/3m/MVU14-187DMK/31382

But I don't think you will find that fitting the Dormans directly is a huge insurmountable problem. All you need to do worst case scenario is file the tab width down ever so slightly.

PS: I haven't experienced the Dormans loosening up over time and haven't heard anyone else report that they did. If they do, then don't use them.

how would you do the pigtail with the driver that connects to both the crossover and the other driver? yes there are two tabs on each side, but seems more complicated. IIRC before I started having to replace things both wires (crossover and other driver) were soldered to the same tab

Gardenstater · May 22

Lalala wrote: »

Gardenstater wrote: »

Lalala wrote: »

Gardenstater wrote: »

You can do a short pigtail soldered at the driver and then a male/female pair of fastons or even pin connectors are also available I believe, like the ones that are inside the molex connectors Polk uses. If you do the pigtail with fastons, make sure you put a male on the end of the pigtail, not the female.

can I make this myself by cutting a short wire stripping both ends, soldering one end to the driver and putting a male faston and then connecting to a female faston on the the longer wire from the crossover/other driver?

Yes that's what I'm saying. You can use a high quality wire of your choice and a good solder like Cardas Quad Eutectic or other.

Here ya go. Get these male fastons from DigiKey which are stated to be tin plated copper (0.187 wide x 0.020 thick) and get the gold plated 0.187 Dormans. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/3m/MVU14-187DMK/31382

But I don't think you will find that fitting the Dormans directly is a huge insurmountable problem. All you need to do worst case scenario is file the tab width down ever so slightly.

PS: I haven't experienced the Dormans loosening up over time and haven't heard anyone else report that they did. If they do, then don't use them.

how would you do the pigtail with the driver that connects to both the crossover and the other driver? yes there are two tabs on each side, but seems more complicated. IIRC before I started having to replace things both wires (crossover and other driver) were soldered to the same tab

I just wouldn't. When it comes to the parallel driver wiring here I would just put the Dorman's on directly and slightly file the tabs if necessary, with both tabs being used on the + of one driver and both tabs being used on the - of the other driver, and female faston jumpers between the + and - .

You can't crimp or solder or even fit two 15 or 14 awg wires into any 0.187 faston or even a 0.205 faston. You'd have to go to the 0.250 size to be possibly able to squeeze two 14 awg wires into the faston.

F1nut · May 22

There are those that speculate, those that twiddle their thumbs and those that do. Be one that does.

Lalala · May 22

Gardenstater wrote: »

Lalala wrote: »

Gardenstater wrote: »

Lalala wrote: »

Gardenstater wrote: »

You can do a short pigtail soldered at the driver and then a male/female pair of fastons or even pin connectors are also available I believe, like the ones that are inside the molex connectors Polk uses. If you do the pigtail with fastons, make sure you put a male on the end of the pigtail, not the female.

can I make this myself by cutting a short wire stripping both ends, soldering one end to the driver and putting a male faston and then connecting to a female faston on the the longer wire from the crossover/other driver?

Yes that's what I'm saying. You can use a high quality wire of your choice and a good solder like Cardas Quad Eutectic or other.

Here ya go. Get these male fastons from DigiKey which are stated to be tin plated copper (0.187 wide x 0.020 thick) and get the gold plated 0.187 Dormans. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/3m/MVU14-187DMK/31382

But I don't think you will find that fitting the Dormans directly is a huge insurmountable problem. All you need to do worst case scenario is file the tab width down ever so slightly.

PS: I haven't experienced the Dormans loosening up over time and haven't heard anyone else report that they did. If they do, then don't use them.

how would you do the pigtail with the driver that connects to both the crossover and the other driver? yes there are two tabs on each side, but seems more complicated. IIRC before I started having to replace things both wires (crossover and other driver) were soldered to the same tab

I just wouldn't. When it comes to the parallel driver wiring here I would just put the Dorman's on directly and slightly file the tabs if necessary, with both tabs being used on the + of one driver and both tabs being used on the - of the other driver, and female faston jumpers between the + and - .

You can't crimp or solder or even fit two 15 or 14 awg wires into any 0.187 faston or even a 0.205 faston. You'd have to go to the 0.250 size to be possibly able to squeeze two 14 awg wires into the faston.

I wasn’t thinking one, I was trying to imagine 2 pigtails on one tab and thought that seemed like a terible idea. that’s why I come back to soldering like they were originally maybe being the best

Lalala · May 22

This photo is from my first post on this forum, how the wires were connected originally before I replaced or changed anything. that’s the driver that connected directly to crossover and other driver. and why I wondered if soldering directly like they did might be easier, without any fastons. I am not sure of using the top tab in terms of how they fit I think it would easily become disconnected and that may have been a part of my issue (along with the too big fastons)

Gardenstater · May 22

Polk used a higher AWG (smaller wire) and therefore it was easier for them to solder to a single tab. Sometimes it is advantageous to bend the tabs at their base while keeping the rest of the tab flat and you can do that.

When we do upgrades most of us go to a larger wire, like 15 or 14awg. I used 12 awg on my 7B midwoofer lol. For the wires connecting the + to + and - to - you could use a smaller wire than the ones going to the PCB. Try that and see if you can stuff the two into a single Dorman 0.187.

Yeah sure. Solder if you want to ensure consistent contact and sacrifice driver ease of swappability.

Gardenstater · May 23

The Dormans accept a 0.090 in. plug gage, so from that you get 4.10 mm^2 area.

14 awg = 2.08 mm^2
16 awg = 1.31 mm^2

So, you could untwist those and retwist together and should have 3.39 mm^2 which should fit in the Dorman and you can crimp and back flow solder. Then you only need to use one faston and one tab per pole on the drivers and can make black and white wiring harnesses that have a 14 awg wire from the PCB to the first MW and a short 16 awg wire to the second MW. That's fine because the 16 awg wire is only conducting half the current. Two 14 awg wires wouldn't quite fit in the Dorman.

You now can upgrade the wire quality to DH Labs Silversonic, Neotech, Cardas etc.. That's what I'd do.

Monitor 10As wires from crossovers to drivers

Answers