Questions on SDA SRS 2 Pin/Blade - crossovers, polyswitch and tweeter upgrades, mono blocks

jmardy
jmardy Posts: 12
in Vintage Speakers
I picked these up recently and have been quite impressed so far.
I've ordered hurricane nuts, PE gasket tape and am going to dynamat the baskets.

Is that little blue sucker next to the input header and above the yellow cap the polyswitch?

I'm running them with a pair of Kenwood L-05M mono-blocks with their ground terminals on the back of the amps connected. Is that OK?

RD0-194s are still the preferred drop in upgrade?

If I didn't want to go "all in" with crossover upgrades, what would you replace?

Thanks in advance. I know a lot of this is dead horse territory but not a lot of the discussions seem to cover the later pin/blade SRS2's.ogh118cjahtl.jpg

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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,829
    edited January 18
    If the stock gaskets are not damaged leave them alone. You gain nothing but a headache changing them unnecessarily.

    The blue device is the polyswitch. Remove and replace with a 0.5 ohm 10 or 12 watt Vishay-Mills resistor.

    Some mono blocks can be strapped and some cannot. I don't know about yours. Best bet is to build a Dreadnought.

    RD0194-1 tweeters are drop in.

    Either do all the caps and resistors or do nothing.


    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • jmardy
    jmardy Posts: 12
    Thanks F1.
    Much appreciated.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 18,089
    [quote="F1nut;c-2803972"]If the stock gaskets are not damaged leave them alone. You gain nothing but a headache changing them unnecessarily.

    The blue device is the polyswitch. Remove and replace with a 0.5 ohm 10 or 12 watt Vishay-Mills resistor.

    Some mono blocks can be strapped and some cannot. I don't know about yours. Best bet is to build a Dreadnought.

    RD0194-1 tweeters are drop in.

    Either do all the caps and resistors or do nothing.


    [/quote]

    All of this ^^^^^^^^ B)

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,200
    What F1nut suggested, but don't forget the PR push test after you've buttoned everything back up. This is the true test of gasket integrity.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • jmardy
    jmardy Posts: 12
    edited January 18
    This seems kinda interesting, one channel has a 4.4uf 250V, the other has a 4.4uf100V and looks to have had a piggyback added and removed at some point.

    Since they're out now, I might as well replace them.

    So the two yellow caps on each board, I replace with the same value Sonicap?

    And I've found Mills 10w 7.5 resistore and Vishay Mills 5W 2.7 Ohm Vishay Mills MRA-5
    Sound like a plan?

    Oh geez, here I go... :D
    6gy5sbhw4zvf.jpg
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,089
    Sonicraft are a good choice. Same value, the voltage will be higher and the size larger, that's okay.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,829
    If you think replacing only the 4.4uF caps is the way to go you would be sadly mistaken.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 5,200
    All those caps are fubar.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
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  • jmardy
    jmardy Posts: 12
    I'm replacing all the caps and resistors (and the polyswitch).
    Thanks for all the help!
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,829
    Good man. Do not use Solen, Dayton or Bennic caps.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • jmardy
    jmardy Posts: 12
    I can't find any film caps to replace the two electrolytics (20uf and 40uf) that will come anywhere close to fitting. Will sadness ensue if I just replaced them with electrolytics?
    Or does anyone have any suggestions?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,829
    You have to get creative. Search here for examples of the countless upgraded crossover examples.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,089
    jmardy wrote: »
    I can't find any film caps to replace the two electrolytics (20uf and 40uf) that will come anywhere close to fitting. Will sadness ensue if I just replaced them with electrolytics?
    Or does anyone have any suggestions?

    Another option is to move them off the board to a separate board and run extended leads to the proper XO solder point on the original XO. It's something I had to do with the huge caps on the SDA 2a XO I did.
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  • jmardy
    jmardy Posts: 12
    Got them done finally.

    f4n8fphsu9p0.jpeg

    Did my old 5A's while I was at it:
    ot1tvzs18i3s.jpeg
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,829
    How's the sound?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • jmardy
    jmardy Posts: 12
    I kind of suck at describing sound, it’s like trying to describe wine for me but the whole “veil lifted “ cliché seems to fit. They sound… silkier?

    I’m still working on Dynamatting the PR‘s and installing hurricane nut so I haven’t really pushed them yet.

    The 5a’s were a similar improvement.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,829
    There ya go B)
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 2,004
    Nice
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  • jmardy
    jmardy Posts: 12
    edited January 30
    Got them back together and played Paul Simon Graceland.
    The female vocals on "I know what I know" don't make me want to turn it down anymore.
    Same with the horns (woodwinds?) on "Crazy Love II" and "Gumboots"

    My watch told me it was too loud. I disagree.
    What?
    I SAID MY WATCH...

    My drum test tracks "Posters" by Dada and "Fool in the Rain" by Led Zeppelin sound fantastic. So tight and clean.

    I can't imagine them sounding better but tempted to drop another $250 on RD0-194's because that what all the cool kids have. :D
    Post edited by jmardy on
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,089
    Well they will get better after about 100 hours. The SL2000 will never sound better no matter what caps you use, get the RD-0194's, money well spent.
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  • jmardy
    jmardy Posts: 12
    edited January 30
    Thanks @pitdogg2
    I'm confused that some vendors call them SL2000:
    (and are those the ones to get?)
    https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/product/polk-audio-sl2000-1-inch-dome-tweeter/

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  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 2,004
    ^Yep, that’s the one’s you want.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,089
    jmardy wrote: »
    Thanks @pitdogg2
    I'm confused that some vendors call them SL2000:
    (and are those the ones to get?)
    https://www.midwestspeakerrepair.com/product/polk-audio-sl2000-1-inch-dome-tweeter/

    Yes. The reason they used the SL2000 for the 94 and SL2500/3000 for the 98 is to help consumers understand which model is the proper replacement for the older tweeters.
    I would call Polk customer service and buy them. Mention you're a member here on the forum and you will get a small discount on the tweeters.
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  • jmardy
    jmardy Posts: 12
    Thanks again @pitdogg2!
    Ordered from Polk. Set of four $192 plus tax, free shipping.
    SWEET!
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