what are you running your LSiM 707 with ?

MAZ
MAZ Posts: 27
in 2 Channel Audio
I didnt realize these are 88 sn sensitivity . I have an amp made with the ICE a1200as2 module which is good for 600 rms x2 but curious what kind of class A/B amp will run good on this amp as I might try another amp.

ive had the Crown XLS amps and my current amp is basicallto ,one them. im thinking a nice high current amp would do the trick
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  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,505
    Those 1200as’s are hard to beat. This might sound crazy but I’m running 2 of them as monoblocks which means they’ll put out 1200 into that 4 ohm load.

    Listening to it now as I type and I did not expect this much improvement.

    Just a thought as those 707’s love power too
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Wiim Ultra. Jolida CD player. Fiio k11 R2R DAC, XTZ as300 Edge amp. Focal Cobalt 826 towers,

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Classe Audio 5 Preamp, DIY1200as2 Icepower Amp x 2, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E70 Velvet DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Polk LSi15's with MM840 woofer upgrade.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Schitt Saga 2 preamp, Topping a90 headphone amp, Mac Mini, Audiophonics Hypex NC252m amp, Polk r200's
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  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,505
    edited October 2025
    Long story short I’ll keep some AB amps around but with the 1200 monos I am DONE


    You can go a DIY route for the second one and save some cheddar too.
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Wiim Ultra. Jolida CD player. Fiio k11 R2R DAC, XTZ as300 Edge amp. Focal Cobalt 826 towers,

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Classe Audio 5 Preamp, DIY1200as2 Icepower Amp x 2, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E70 Velvet DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Polk LSi15's with MM840 woofer upgrade.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Schitt Saga 2 preamp, Topping a90 headphone amp, Mac Mini, Audiophonics Hypex NC252m amp, Polk r200's
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  • MAZ
    MAZ Posts: 27
    nice!guess i will keep it then and maybe build another
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,738
    Don't pay Lou any mind, he's as deaf as a doornail ;)
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • mpitogo
    mpitogo Posts: 515
    Rotel RB-1590. 350 W/Ch (8 Ω) 648 W/Ch (4 Ω) has no issues driving them. I read a review in Europe published tests of the amp with the power cord melting current limiting circuit disabled and got insane numbers.
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    • Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,738
    Since Rotel doesn't list the peak to peak current rating on their site do you know what it is?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • mpitogo
    mpitogo Posts: 515
    It’s current limited to 15A but some folks are saying 34A or 50A here https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/rotel-rb-1590.380008/

    unfortunately I couldn’t find the original article I read about power.
    • Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
    • Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
    • Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
    • Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
    • Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
    • Daughter's Gaming Rig-2.0 Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | Martin Logan Forte
    • Orphans DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
    • Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
    • Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,738
    The current of one of my amps is rated at 160 amps. The power cord has never melted.

    Someone was pulling your leg.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,448
    160 amps! I imagine the neighbors know when you are listening; not because they can hear it but because they see their lights dim. Do you have your own nuclear power plant?
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 27,026
    Dilithium crystals brah
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,738
    skrol wrote: »
    160 amps! I imagine the neighbors know when you are listening; not because they can hear it but because they see their lights dim. Do you have your own nuclear power plant?

    10 gauge line on a dedicated 30 amp breaker.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,699
    88dB efficiency isn't really that demanding. I've had no issues cranking up LSiM707s with a Parasound A23. The LSiM tweeter is the main weak point on those speakers and those could blow with any amp if played too loud for too long. The racetrack style woofers are also unusual. I found the LSiM707s to not integrate the top and bottom sections all that well compared with other speakers, but no amp was going to fix that.

    I sold a Rotel RB-1090 (now RB-1590) years ago because, although it had plenty of power output, it wasn't as refined sounding as amps with half the power that I had access to. It was overkill. The Rotel RB-1080 (now RB-1582) to me was a better, maybe ideal, sweet spot class AB amp choice for most uses.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,738
    I found the LSiM707s to not integrate the top and bottom sections all that well

    BINGO!!!
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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