Can you have two many Adcom Amps voltage drop

2»

Comments

  • polkrt3000p
    polkrt3000p Posts: 146
    I did some more looking, yes all of the outlets in the family room are on one circuit around 10 outlets, the Polk RT3000p subs are also plugged into the same circuit just a different outlets. So yeah not great, I noticed mid volume after shutting some amps down and just using the two Mono blocks 565 and 2 555s I was able to stay around 112-114 volts. When low volume it returns to 115-114. when all off it is above 115. After 11pm last night I noticed it was up a bit, and with all amps off I was getting 118v. then turn on around 115. The other outlet would require going through a couple of walls and to tap into the next breaker. Interesting on the Sunfire 425 per channel, sounds like maybe that could be an option and go with one amp or the most two vs what I have currently. Maybe not worth the upgrade on the 200 watt sunfire amps vs Adcom. Maybe I could try to wire it in myself, I have done some electrical wiring in the past, so I know how just a pain to get through the walls.
  • polkrt3000p
    polkrt3000p Posts: 146
    Is 115 normal for ideal in the evening around 7pm, as it did go up later in the evening. Guessing a lot of usage in the neighborhood pulling current during peak time. Guessing maybe normal as that would be around 5% off.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    120v is normal in my area.
  • polkrt3000p
    polkrt3000p Posts: 146
    Just doing more thinking of amp changes, from what I can tell from the responses it looks like if I went with the Sunfire 7401 400x7 I could then replace the Adcoms and just have the Sunfire Receiver TGR3 to go with the 7401 Sunfire amp and would almost solve both issues, one just down to a couple of things plugged into the outlet and not starving for power and Sunfire sound quality maybe better then the 3 Adcom 555s Stereo mode with each center getting 200w/ch and 2 Adcom 565s Mono blocks at 300watt and Adcom 2535 used Bridged 1 Channel 200w. As your read the 555s are biamped to the SDAs so supposably getting 400 wats per channel. Just in case I can't get the electrical wire switched out. Maybe if I sell all of the amps I could buy one 7401 Sunfire. I know this is questionable due to my issues, but it maybe something to think about. I love my Adcoms, but also a big fan of Sunfire.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,655
    You keep referencing the rated power output of the various amps, just stop!

    What you need to look at is the rated maximum amp draw, which should be listed on the back near the IEC or captive power cord.

    The Sunfire 7401 has a maximum draw of 12 amps. So, on your 15 amp line that, in theory, leaves 3. However, one should not exceed 80%, which just happens to be 12 amps.

    YOU NEED TO INSTALL DEDICATED 20 LINES NO MATTER HOW YOU LOOK AT IT.

    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,915
    Those two Adcom's ARE NOT throwing 400wpc at those SDA's.
    1. You'd cook those tweeters like an eggs if you tried.
    2. You would need to run those amps wide open, which I'm sure you're not doing, ALL the time.
    You seem to forget that ALL speakers do NOT stay at the rated 8 ohm, 6 ohm or 4 ohm throughout their entire frequency spectrum. They could drop as low as 3 ohms during music reproduction. Which mean if pushed hard the amps would in turn churn out a bit more power and hopefully current. I'm pretty sure at 4 ohm the 555's put out 360 wpc or so. That is another reason why they run out of gas, they are trying to pull more current from the outlet they're being starved from to produce power.

    You sure know how to make things extremely complicated, it doesn't have to be this way....
  • polkrt3000p
    polkrt3000p Posts: 146
    I'm sorry guys, don't want to make it too complicated and I will stop talking about wattage, sounds like I need to do some wiring in my case. I know you guys the masters at this and I am still learning for sure. Is it possible to change the 15amp breaker to a 20amp in the breaker box would it allow more voltage then, I thought 12g cable is cable of installing a 20amp, then I just need to get to another 20amp, there is another bedroom close by, and hardly anything used in that room as its a spare bedroom and change that out from a 15amp. Might be easier to get to. Just thinking. I wish I could just do a dedicated lane as that would solve the issue. I think everyone is in agreement of a wiring issue starving the amps regards if I change them out.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,655
    edited August 13
    Looking at the main breaker looks to be 12 gauge yellow wire.
    If that's the case you can replace the 15 amp breaker with a 20 amp and be within code.

    It's not code, but while you're at it you should change the outlet from a 15 amp version to a 20 amp version as they tend to be more robust.
    Is it possible to change the 15amp breaker to a 20amp in the breaker box would it allow more voltage then
    The voltage will not change. The amperage will.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 3,028
    As stated before, there really is no substitute for higher amperage circuits for amplifiers. Your current (pun) setup is causing significant “voltage drop”, or “V-drop” from the over taxed circuit. When this happens, your gear will “attempt” to compensate by drawing more amperage, and thus creating more heat. Further, the individual components within the amplifiers take a beating from the V-drop.

    I run a pair of Carver Silver 9t amplifiers in my 2ch system. To feed them, I ran a 20 amp circuit with 10ga wire. The amps are the only thing on that circuit…

    k0som3n5nwcb.jpeg


    In my home theater I’m running 2x Carver M500t amplifiers, a Sunfire 200x5, and a Parasound Z-12. For this I ran 3x 20 amp circuits with 12ga wire, just for the amplifiers.

    btgc8aovwzu3.jpeg

    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn
  • polkrt3000p
    polkrt3000p Posts: 146
    Well done, looks like you are setup well. Thanks for pics and thoughts.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,942
    Can you provide us with a pic of your panel?

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • motorstereo
    motorstereo Posts: 2,317
    edited August 14
    For my 1.2tls I use a pair of high current 1200wpc monos and they're each on their own dedicated 20amp circuit. I've checked the current-wattage they use and even during insanely high volumes they use very little and there's no voltage drop.
    I wonder if you may have a high current device on that same line in addition to those extra adcoms such as a big screen tv. dehumidifier, ac, etc.? With 10 outlets on that circuit I'm betting there is. If not and you have a good idea of what you're doing an inspection of your electrical panel is a good idea. Look for any obvious signs of issues and make sure all connections are TIGHT. For instance if a breaker isn't seated properly or is worn out it can arc which would cause a voltage drop in the line. Another thought is to check the other leg of your panel. You may have too much draw on one leg and not much on the other. You could switch your breaker over to the other leg for a quick fix if that's the case.
    Caution; if you don't feel confident in checking your panel then don't do it. There's voltages in there that can kill.
  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 7,442
    edited August 14
    Voltage in my house rarely drops below 120V except for quick spikes when my AC unit kicks on. I have a Ting monitor recording voltage 24/7. This was a day that had a relatively loud listening session after 8pm.
    msvcohux5ze4.jpg
  • audioluvr
    audioluvr Posts: 5,861
    edited August 14
    Just like larger gauge speaker wire makes your speakers run more efficient, Home wiring does the same. A 15 amp circuit (outlet) should be at minimum 14ga. wiring. 20 amp circuits should be at minimum 12ga. and on long runs at least one size larger. (for example if your breaker box is on one side of the house and the outlet is on the opposite.
    When I built my barn I used 4/0 ga. when the inspector came to approve it, his eyes lit up and said "Geez! That's huge wiring for a barn! What are you going to run off that?" I said "I don't know. A Van Halen concert?".
    Gustard X26 Pro DAC
    Belles 21A Pre modded with Mundorf Supreme caps
    B&K M200 Sonata monoblocks refreshed and upgraded
    Polk SDA 1C's modded / 1000Va Dreadnaught
    Wireworld Silver Eclipse IC's and speaker cables
    Harman Kardon T65C w/Grado Gold. (Don't laugh. It sounds great!)


    There is about a 5% genetic difference between apes and men …but that difference is the difference between throwing your own poo when you are annoyed …and Einstein, Shakespeare and Miss January. by Dr. Sardonicus
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,806
    Is it possible to change the 15amp breaker to a 20amp in the breaker box would it allow more voltage then, I thought 12g cable is cable of installing a 20amp, then I just need to get to another 20amp, there is another bedroom close by, and hardly anything used in that room as its a spare bedroom and change that out from a 15amp.

    Since the breaker isn't popping, you are not drawing more than the circuit can handle. Changing the breaker won't solve a thing. And running your system on two different circuits can sometimes cause ground loops.

    I'm not sure I'd trust that Monster 3500 for your voltage readings either, it's well over 20 years old. I have one, it doesn't fluctuate, but it reads 2v lower than my meters. Try a real multi-meter. I use mine just for the switched outlets.
  • polkrt3000p
    polkrt3000p Posts: 146
    I always thought it was weird that it did not blow the breaker based on the amperage the amps can pull each. So that was confusing to me why it never blow. The Monster unit is at least 20 years old which is connected to most of the amps, so maybe an issue there. I will need to test it with a volt meter. I did call to see if I can get an estimate on wiring in a new line next week. I am anxious to see what the cost will be.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,655
    From daddyjt's post above.
    Your current (pun) setup is causing significant “voltage drop”, or “V-drop” from the over taxed circuit. When this happens, your gear will “attempt” to compensate by drawing more amperage, and thus creating more heat. Further, the individual components within the amplifiers take a beating from the V-drop.

    You need to get your gear off of just the one line. Hence, the advice to get dedicated (separate) 20 amp lines installed.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • polkrt3000p
    polkrt3000p Posts: 146
    I was able to tap into another circuit from the next door bedroom and move a couple amps off. I have another outlet being installed on the August 29th so then I should have three different circuits instead of one. I plan to keep the Amps I have for now. Due to the expense of wiring in new outlets. Thanks for your help on this.
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,772
    Once you get the power issue figured out you may find those amps coming to life and sounding better.

    Let us know what you find.
  • polkrt3000p
    polkrt3000p Posts: 146
    Will do, thanks!
  • Well, I got the amps split up now with 3 circuits. I am now maintaining around 115volts and with everything off seems to be close to 118 or 119. It is a bit clearer now, which is good. I am happy enough with the change that is was worth it. Thanks again for the help. I am now thinking of adding a subwoofer to the front. The rears are fine with the RT3000p. Maybe nothing major but to add just a little more.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,655
    Thanks for the follow up.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • daddyjt
    daddyjt Posts: 3,028
    Nice - thanks for being a good (receptive) sport and taking our advice to heart. I think you’ll see long term benefits from splitting up the load.
    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn
  • skipshot12
    skipshot12 Posts: 1,772
    That's great, appreciate the follow up.
    Enjoy your system.