New TV recommendations

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  • Posts: 19,575
    Samsungs. They usually crap out on us every 7 or so years. I'll look at Sony's next.

    Tom
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • Posts: 7,167
    edited April 4
    pitdogg2 wrote: »

    Note: I said "in an affordable manner." You linked a $70,000 TV that wouldn't fit in most rooms. I was referring to the sweet spot in consumer sizes between 55"-75". Plasma pixels didn't scale down small enough to get 4K in those sizes.
    Plasma was great for the time, but I really don't miss it. OLED today is better in almost every respect. It gets brighter, gets blacker, does colors every bit as well, and can be made in just about any size from a smart phone to a monster 100"+ size. It has also become more affordable than plasma was.
    Also, I don't believe that designing TVs that used less power has made them any less reliable. It has more to do with the overall 'cheapening' of the TVs through the last 10 years due to intense competition from Chinese brands like Hisense and TCL. The push for ultra-slim designs has also made TVs less reliable. When you pack circuits into smaller spaces, we know what happens. They get hotter, and there is less tolerance for faults. The compact designs have pushed the boards to almost complete surface mounted designs which also tend to fail more easily. Luckily, we are paying significantly less for TVs now and if it needs to be replaced every 5-7 years, then so be it. I paid $1500 for a 42" Panasonic Plasma in early 2007. In 2022, I bought a 50" Hisense for the bedroom that cost me less than $350. For the most part, the Hisense looks better than the Panasonic did and it doesn't heat the room up either.
  • Posts: 26,186
    Damn Bill! All I was showing is that they were coming and possible in 4k until the energy restrictions nixxed them.

    Name one new technology that wasn't unaffordable to the masses until they scaled it down to the affordable area.
    Hell even I remember when my neighbor bought a new betamax and projection TV that he paid high 5 figures for.



  • Posts: 2,748
    edited April 4
    Calibration is key. A properly calibrated $400 Hisense will destroy an un-calibrated TOTL Sony OLED in watchabilty and picture quality.

    I’ve run Samsung and Vizio for years (decades) with zero issues. The only time I’ve gotten rid of one was when there was literally no room for it. For example, went with a new Samsung 75” in the HT, moved that 65” Vizio to the family room, moved that 60” Vizio to the 2ch area, and moved tha t50” Samsung to a needy neighbor.

    As for OLED, QLED, or mini-LED, I really don’t see the value vs investment. Maybe when 8k goes mainstream, but as of now, not so much.
    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn
  • Posts: 7,167
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    Damn Bill! All I was showing is that they were coming and possible in 4k until the energy restrictions nixxed them.

    Name one new technology that wasn't unaffordable to the masses until they scaled it down to the affordable area.
    Hell even I remember when my neighbor bought a new betamax and projection TV that he paid high 5 figures for.



    I hate to belabor the point, but 4K wasn't coming in smaller plasma TVs. There was talk for years from industry experts at AVSforum about the difficulty in shrinking the plasma pixel size. The cost vs other technologies is what really made plasma go away. OLED skunked it. The energy savings was part of the equation, but not the only factor.
  • Posts: 17,630
    edited April 4
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Samsungs. They usually crap out on us every 7 or so years. I'll look at Sony's next.

    Tom

    LOL!! Again, this house will have to disagree, we have lived in this house for 25 years now, and just like you with SONY, we have only moved our TV’s around the house, never had a TV die on us, and as I said, the only TV we had an issue with, just happened to be a SONY, nothing big, we still use it, and honestly, I doubt it would keep me from buying another SONY.

    All I am saying is, Samsung has treated us well, and they have a fantastic picture..

    Edit: Sorry Tom, I shouldn’t have read this on my phone, you know, old eyes and all, and not wearing my glasses, I totally read what you posted wrong, LOL!!! But my statement does reflect my experience with Samsung.. 🤪
  • Posts: 822
    daddyjt wrote: »
    Calibration is key. A properly calibrated $400 Hisense will destroy an un-calibrated TOTL Sony OLED in watchabilty and picture quality.

    How do you calibrate your TV?
    2ch rig: Speakers: Magnepan LRS w/Magna Riser stands Preamplifier: Parasound P5 Amplifier: Parasound A23 CDP: Pioneer DV-563A Cables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB, AudioQuest Q2s, AudioQuest NRG X(preamp)

    Standby: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress mods
  • Posts: 51,169
    HzTweaker wrote: »

    How do you calibrate your TV?

    Training, lots of training.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 7,167
    edited April 4
    HzTweaker wrote: »

    How do you calibrate your TV?

    Read up here. https://www.avsforum.com/forums/display-calibration.139/
    So much information to try and summarize in a quick forum post.
    To do it right, most people hire a professional calibrator to come to their house and do the work. They use special colorimeters connected to a laptop running calibration software. It can be a very complex procedure that requires expensive equipment and years of training.
    For the frugal among us, you can adjust by eye using a series of reference images and you fine tune the menu settings to achieve the best look.
    Even easier it to take a set of published numbers from someplace like RTings, but every display has some variance, so that is the least reliable way to get a proper calibration.
  • Posts: 7,293
    HzTweaker wrote: »

    How do you calibrate your TV?

    You tweak the Hz.
  • Posts: 2,748
    There are several discs out there. I settled on this one years ago - it includes the blue-filter for setting color/tint and a host of other tests for brightness, contrast, sharpness, etc.

    It also includes a suite of audio tracks for HT calibration.

    1owe0wpbdjo9.jpeg
    “Human beings are born with different capacities. If they are free, they are not equal. And if they are equal, they are not free.”
    ― Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn
  • Posts: 7,167
    edited April 4
    A disc is nice to have. Keep in mind that calibrating with a DVD will only adjust the Rec.601 color space. A Blu-ray or a USB loaded with HD files would be needed for the Rec.709 color space. UHD is BT.2020 color space, then there are others for Dolby Vision (DV) and HDR10 spaces. It can get frustrating because modern TVs will change the settings each time a different signal is received. Took me awhile to figure out why some things were blinding me when I finally got a UHD TV. It was the DV settings, which you can't access until it receives a DV signal.

    For Rec.709, AVSforum created set of free calibration files. I had them burned to a disc at one point, but I don't know what happened to it. I still have a Spears and Munsil DVD from 25 years ago, but I only use the color filters that came with it.
    It might take some time to find the download, but here is the AVS thread for the 709 files.

    https://www.avsforum.com/threads/avs-hd-709-blu-ray-mp4-calibration.948496/?nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#replies
  • Posts: 2,006
    For my $, 75-77 QLED to replace my (still works great) 13YO Samsung 60” 1080p later this year or early next
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    *all connected w/Premiere ICs
    5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”

    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • Posts: 822
    Thank you for the info All.
    2ch rig: Speakers: Magnepan LRS w/Magna Riser stands Preamplifier: Parasound P5 Amplifier: Parasound A23 CDP: Pioneer DV-563A Cables: Wireworld Equinox 7 XLR ICs, Wireworld Ultraviolet 7 USB, AudioQuest Q2s, AudioQuest NRG X(preamp)

    Standby: LSi9s with VR3's Fortress mods

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