Original Owner Of Monitor 5JR Plus

melchionda
melchionda Posts: 79
edited November 2022 in Vintage Speakers
Hello folks. Back in the mid nineteen eighties I was in high school and I had two hobbies. Riding bikes and high end audio equipment. On weekends I did yard work in my neighborhood to make money two fund both of those hobbies. I saved my money and bought a pair of Polk Monitor 5 Jr + speakers at Audio Breakthroughs in Manhasset on Long Island NY. I took those speakers up to college and then out to California where I now live. They are in great shape but probably need an upgrade. I'll probably do the recommended tweeter replacement as everyone seems to recommend that. Also I'll re-do the cross-over with new higher quality parts. Any other recommendations? How about the veneer? Is there a way to re-do veneer? What about lining the interior with a layer of foam. Does that help?
Yamaha RX-A2080 HT Receiver in 5.4.4 configurationYamaha A-S2200 Integrated Amp Powering an extra set of Front SpeakersAudioLab 6000N Network Streamer Connected to Spotify and Amazon HD Music4 10" Subwoofers Powered By Dayton Audio 1200 DSP Amps4 In ceiling Atmos SpeakersSpeakers:Warfedale Diamond 9.1 (Front and Rear L+R)Polk Monitor 5 Jr+ (Front L+R)Martin Logan Motion SLM XL (Center Channel)Subwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RS270-8 10" Reference WooferSubwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference Series HO DVC Subwoofer
«134567

Comments

  • Oh man!

    Check out my thread for links to mods you can do!

    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/comment/2704595#Comment_2704595
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
  • plastic_avatar
    plastic_avatar Posts: 687
    edited November 2022
    And welcome!

    5jr were my first Polks (same age range as you, I am), but didn't get mine until about 2000-2002.

    You'll quickly learn that there's a great deal of info and help here.
    The Thrifty Setups in Mah House Big thrifty stereo in the basement w/ my custom SDA-1C (built with help from kind forum members) * Beautiful 1966 MCM GE console upgraded w/ Bluetooth, Dual turntable, and Paradigm speakers in family room * Swanky 1980 Realistic system and great TEAC eq with dancing colored lights in the living room * Ye Olde college stereo in the garage
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,557
    Welcome to the forum! Looking forward to following along on your 5JR mod/upgrade progress.
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,635
    Rick James would approve.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • F1nut wrote: »
    melchionda wrote: »
    Hello folks. Back in the mid nineteen eighties I was in high school and I had two hobbies. Riding bikes and high end audio equipment. On weekends I did yard work in my neighborhood to make money two fund both of those hobbies. I saved my money and bought a pair of Polk Monitor 5 Jr + speakers at Audio Breakthroughs in Manhasset on Long Island NY. I took those speakers up to college and then out to California where I now live. They are in great shape but probably need an upgrade. I'll probably do the recommended tweeter replacement as everyone seems to recommend that. Also I'll re-do the cross-over with new higher quality parts. Any other recommendations? How about the veneer? Is there a way to re-do veneer? What about lining the interior with a layer of foam. Does that help?

    Are they wood veneer or vinyl?

    Do NOT line the interior with foam.

    Do NOT bother looking at the link posted above, it's full of really bad ideas.

    Yamaha RX-A2080 HT Receiver in 5.4.4 configurationYamaha A-S2200 Integrated Amp Powering an extra set of Front SpeakersAudioLab 6000N Network Streamer Connected to Spotify and Amazon HD Music4 10" Subwoofers Powered By Dayton Audio 1200 DSP Amps4 In ceiling Atmos SpeakersSpeakers:Warfedale Diamond 9.1 (Front and Rear L+R)Polk Monitor 5 Jr+ (Front L+R)Martin Logan Motion SLM XL (Center Channel)Subwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RS270-8 10" Reference WooferSubwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference Series HO DVC Subwoofer
  • [/quote]

    Are they wood veneer or vinyl?


    [/quote]


    When I bought them I had the choice of walnut or black. The black had the same texture as the walnut except it was black in color. How can you tell if it’s wood or vinyl veneer?
    Yamaha RX-A2080 HT Receiver in 5.4.4 configurationYamaha A-S2200 Integrated Amp Powering an extra set of Front SpeakersAudioLab 6000N Network Streamer Connected to Spotify and Amazon HD Music4 10" Subwoofers Powered By Dayton Audio 1200 DSP Amps4 In ceiling Atmos SpeakersSpeakers:Warfedale Diamond 9.1 (Front and Rear L+R)Polk Monitor 5 Jr+ (Front L+R)Martin Logan Motion SLM XL (Center Channel)Subwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RS270-8 10" Reference WooferSubwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference Series HO DVC Subwoofer
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,471
    Post a picture of them. From the sounds of it, it sounds like vinyl. You can tell wood from a vinyl pretty easily.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    One way is to follow the grain pattern up from the side to over the top. Vinyl will look like one continuous pattern as the planes change.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • melchionda
    melchionda Posts: 79
    edited February 2023
    I'm thinking that the first two upgrades will be replace the tweeter and the crossover. However it looks like if I am going to re-do the crossover I should probably modify it to use the RDO-198 tweeter as that is preferable to the RDO-194. Is there a parts list and schematic for the crossover that I can reference?
    Yamaha RX-A2080 HT Receiver in 5.4.4 configurationYamaha A-S2200 Integrated Amp Powering an extra set of Front SpeakersAudioLab 6000N Network Streamer Connected to Spotify and Amazon HD Music4 10" Subwoofers Powered By Dayton Audio 1200 DSP Amps4 In ceiling Atmos SpeakersSpeakers:Warfedale Diamond 9.1 (Front and Rear L+R)Polk Monitor 5 Jr+ (Front L+R)Martin Logan Motion SLM XL (Center Channel)Subwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RS270-8 10" Reference WooferSubwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference Series HO DVC Subwoofer
  • In the vintage speakers section. The first one is for the SL2500 tweeter, which the RD0198 is the upgrade/replacement for. Surprising that it seems like all they did is change the 12uF cap to a 13.5uF one, and jumper out (eliminate) the polyswitch. The inductors are the same values but you need to check the wire awg because that will effect the DC resistance. They are probably the same but who knows?

    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/6/7/2/8/18771.pdf

    https://us.v-cdn.net/5021930/uploads/attachments/4/6/7/2/8/18770.pdf
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • melchionda
    melchionda Posts: 79
    edited February 2023
    I'm looking for crossover components. Is parts express the best place? I'm going through the trouble of doing the work so I'm looking for quality stuff.

    Questions:

    1.) For the capacitors what is the spec on the volts that I should look for? Also, I assume that I should do a metalized polypropelene?

    2.) For the resistor.... what am I looking for? wire wound? non inductive? etc?

    3.) The coil at .19mH and 22awg doesn't seem to be available at parts express. Any other places to get them?

    Yamaha RX-A2080 HT Receiver in 5.4.4 configurationYamaha A-S2200 Integrated Amp Powering an extra set of Front SpeakersAudioLab 6000N Network Streamer Connected to Spotify and Amazon HD Music4 10" Subwoofers Powered By Dayton Audio 1200 DSP Amps4 In ceiling Atmos SpeakersSpeakers:Warfedale Diamond 9.1 (Front and Rear L+R)Polk Monitor 5 Jr+ (Front L+R)Martin Logan Motion SLM XL (Center Channel)Subwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RS270-8 10" Reference WooferSubwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference Series HO DVC Subwoofer
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    Sonic Craft or Parts Connexion.

    Voltage will always be higher with film caps, which is perfectly fine.

    Wire wound, non-inductive. Mills are nice.

    Inductors often have to be custom ordered.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,133
    edited February 2023
    The only reason to replace your coil would be if the one in your speakers isn't 22awg. If you have a dial caliper you can measure the diameter of the wire. 22awg would be .0253"

    https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

    If you have a spool of known 22awg that is solid wire (not stranded), you could use an adjustable wrench to check if they are the same sizes, if you don't have a caliper.
    Post edited by Gardenstater on
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • For the resistor what wattage should I get? Looks like they come in 2.5, 5 and 10 watt.
    Yamaha RX-A2080 HT Receiver in 5.4.4 configurationYamaha A-S2200 Integrated Amp Powering an extra set of Front SpeakersAudioLab 6000N Network Streamer Connected to Spotify and Amazon HD Music4 10" Subwoofers Powered By Dayton Audio 1200 DSP Amps4 In ceiling Atmos SpeakersSpeakers:Warfedale Diamond 9.1 (Front and Rear L+R)Polk Monitor 5 Jr+ (Front L+R)Martin Logan Motion SLM XL (Center Channel)Subwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RS270-8 10" Reference WooferSubwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference Series HO DVC Subwoofer
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,471
    10 or 12 watt resistors. Cheap insurance over stock 5w
  • melchionda
    melchionda Posts: 79
    edited March 2023
    Hi... I have three questions today..

    1.) Which speaker to you think that this actually is? I always thought that I had the Monitor 5 Jr+. However the name plate on the back says "Monitor 5JR"

    2.) I'm considering re-doing this veneer. I'm guessing that this is actually not wood veneer but rather vinyl veneer? I'm thinking its vinyl because the grain is continuous around the corner of the cabinet and because in the corner where it is damaged the cross section of the outer layer appears to be black all the way through and does not appear to be wood.

    3.) What is the best way to remove the vinyl veneer? I have a heat gun and so was thinking of attempting to use heat to release the glue so I could peel off the veneer. Anyone else removed the vinyl veneer? Whats the best way to attack that?

    qmcq4ijrbc7x.png
    lnf7yvy61ii8.png
    x4bs56etzcks.png
    vfb2mwzomssd.png
    Yamaha RX-A2080 HT Receiver in 5.4.4 configurationYamaha A-S2200 Integrated Amp Powering an extra set of Front SpeakersAudioLab 6000N Network Streamer Connected to Spotify and Amazon HD Music4 10" Subwoofers Powered By Dayton Audio 1200 DSP Amps4 In ceiling Atmos SpeakersSpeakers:Warfedale Diamond 9.1 (Front and Rear L+R)Polk Monitor 5 Jr+ (Front L+R)Martin Logan Motion SLM XL (Center Channel)Subwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RS270-8 10" Reference WooferSubwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference Series HO DVC Subwoofer
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,635
    I used a heat gun on a few sets of 5Jrs with good results. Those feet are not original
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    5jr.

    Why are there feet on the side of the cabinet?

    Use a heat gun. Start at a rear edge, heat small areas at a time, pull the vinyl off. It is a PITA.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,471
    I was under the impresssion the 5jr+ had the 6.5" passive and the 5jr had the port.
  • Gardenstater
    Gardenstater Posts: 4,133
    5jr+ first appeared in Audio Oct 1987 Equipment Buyer's Guide and was with the passive radiator. All the 5jr (not 5jr+) listings in years prior had the port, at least according to the EBGs.
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Crown D150 amp
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I was under the impresssion the 5jr+ had the 6.5" passive and the 5jr had the port.

    I defer, not really familiar with that model.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,635
    edited March 2023
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    I was under the impresssion the 5jr+ had the 6.5" passive and the 5jr had the port.

    Yep

    You can score the edges with a sharp blade or hit them with a belt sander, then burn those edges quickly with a flame so the material lifts off, then the heat gun will be easy to take off the rest.

    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,704
    A belt sander!?! HELL NO!!!

    Just use heat gun, start at a rear edge with a putty knife to start to lift the vinyl. Once you get it started heat small areas and pull on the vinyl by hand. Repeat until skinned.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • wispolkboy
    wispolkboy Posts: 149
    ^^^^This^^^
    that's what worked for me...
    M7's 1982 Peerless tweeters
    M5's X2 (1981 Peerless tweeters, 1988 with upgraded tweeters)
    M4's X2 both with Peerless tweeters
    M5Jr with SL1500 (in the garage, they sound great)
    M4.6 series2 X2 with upgraded tweeters
    SDA 2 with upgraded tweeters
  • xschop
    xschop Posts: 4,635
    I suggested the belt sander just to score the edges as I have found that the adhesive/vinyl to be tougher near corners to remove. To each his own method.
    Don't take experimental gene therapies from known eugenicists.
  • xschop wrote: »
    I used a heat gun on a few sets of 5Jrs with good results. Those feet are not original

    yes. I put the feet on because I’ve had to have these sitting on their side on a ledge in my previous house.

    Yamaha RX-A2080 HT Receiver in 5.4.4 configurationYamaha A-S2200 Integrated Amp Powering an extra set of Front SpeakersAudioLab 6000N Network Streamer Connected to Spotify and Amazon HD Music4 10" Subwoofers Powered By Dayton Audio 1200 DSP Amps4 In ceiling Atmos SpeakersSpeakers:Warfedale Diamond 9.1 (Front and Rear L+R)Polk Monitor 5 Jr+ (Front L+R)Martin Logan Motion SLM XL (Center Channel)Subwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RS270-8 10" Reference WooferSubwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference Series HO DVC Subwoofer
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,306
    I removed the vinyl on some RTA/Monitor 11Ts with a heat gun and scraper.
    It was, indeed, a pita, but the heat gun makes it easy.

    Might want to think about wearing some glubs. That vinyl gets hot. The pulling might not be as big a deal on the 5JR+ vs something bigger, but easy to get blisters with this job.
    I disabled signatures.
  • Has anyone tried an iron with maybe a thin piece of cloth between the iron and the vinyl surface? I was thinking maybe an iron could heat the vinyl faster than the heat gun.
    Yamaha RX-A2080 HT Receiver in 5.4.4 configurationYamaha A-S2200 Integrated Amp Powering an extra set of Front SpeakersAudioLab 6000N Network Streamer Connected to Spotify and Amazon HD Music4 10" Subwoofers Powered By Dayton Audio 1200 DSP Amps4 In ceiling Atmos SpeakersSpeakers:Warfedale Diamond 9.1 (Front and Rear L+R)Polk Monitor 5 Jr+ (Front L+R)Martin Logan Motion SLM XL (Center Channel)Subwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RS270-8 10" Reference WooferSubwoofers 2x Dayton Audio RSS265HO-44 10" Reference Series HO DVC Subwoofer
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,306
    Might work. I read about using an iron for applying veneer, but not removing the vinyl.

    One thing I noticed with the heat gun is that there's a range of optimal heat. Too little and the vinyl won't lift. Too much, and it becomes too soft and just stretches and tears easily - pretty much that it's getting close to melting.
    I disabled signatures.