Which loctite for magnet shift?

Hi All -

I thought I should circle back around and give an update!

After making my initial posts, I realized I had stashed an old pair of 5Bs, bought for $10 at Goodwill, in my basement.

I had a few PMs in response to my initial posts, and was glad, because I had never checked the speakers with a multimeter to see if they were bad. In my 7Bs, one of the MW6500 and both of the black Peerless tweeters had no resistance (ohm at infinity), so I decided to concentrate on the 5Bs.

I had never even hooked them up and by using the simple push test quickly realized both of the midrange speakers were locked. I took the lone MW6500 from the 7B and both of the MW6502 from the 5Bs and reset the pole. I hooked all 3 up, and one of the 6502 seems to have some interference (not sure it if shifted or I hit the coil) but I was able to get the lone 6500 and one of the 6502 repaired and sounding very well. Both of the tweeters in the 5Bs were solid (these are 7-8ohm) and these little 5Bs crank. Thanks for all the help and the ideas.

Regarding the Loctite - I went with the green. At first I tried not using any liquid, but had such a difficult time moving the pole plate without some liquid between it and the magnet that I bit the bullet. I simply added 4-5 small drops to the magnet and took a plain piece of paper to spread the loctite before dropping the pole piece into the hole. I had at least 5 minutes of good working time to center the pole piece and confirm movement, and was happy with the outcome. I used Gorilla epoxy to seal everything. I'll also say that I used the blown 6500 (which also had a cracked magnet) for 'testing purposes'. Gorilla epoxy is strong, but you can remove it with an ice pick and patience, and can separate the magnet and pole piece by placing a screwdrive (or putty knife) on the side of the pole plate and then hitting with a small hammer to separate. I determine if something shifts during glue-up, there is the chance to start over without damaging the parts, and I will eventually take apart the one 6502 to see if I can repair better.

However - now I've got a followup question that I'm sure someone on here can help me answer. I tried moving everything into the 7B cabinets, but they sound like crap - I suspect there is a crossover issue, or it has something to do with the resistance of the tweeters. The original black tweeters are (I believe) 4 ohm, and the silver tweeters register 7-8 ohms.

The tweeters in the 5Bs look similar to the Peerless in the 7Bs - but instead of being black, they're silver/dull chrome. Are these also Peerless or are these something else? They don't have the horizontal groove that I see in most of the pics of the SDL tweeters, and I can't seem to find much information on silver/chrome tweeters in the older monitor speakers. If it helps, the sticker on the MW6502 speakers sticker had 1984 as the date. Pic attached: