RTIA or Signature speakers

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Hi,

This is Raj Kumar. I am from India. I am planning to buy a simple 5.1 setup for my living room. My budget is about 1 Lakh rupees for the speakers. I can exactly purchase S15 pair (for L and R), S10 pair (for surround), and S30 for center and DSW440 Pro for bass.

However, If I stretch my budget for a little I can afford RTiA series too. I can take RTiA3 for (L and R), CSiA4 for center and RTiA1 for surround and DSW 440 Pro.

But, I am kind of confused as which one to go. I checked the forum, I did not get a clear answer.
How does RTiA series sound compared to signature series? Is it a good choice to stretch budget by 10-15% more and go for RTiA series?

I know, audition is the best solution. But, we do not have any place where we have these speakers for audition. So, want to ask in the forum.

Mostly I like listening to music, but - I will be using these for TV and HT too.. Mostly 50% of time - will be using for music.

I will be using Denon AVR X2600H for these speakers.

Please suggest.

Thanks.





Comments

  • Hermitism
    Hermitism Posts: 4,205
    edited September 2020
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    The RTiA series of speakers are home theater speakers. I own the older version of those called the RTi line. They are excellent home theater speakers, but most, including me, find them to be a bit bright for music. Some may use the terms harsh or fatiguing. I haven't heard the Signature series, but the forum members here that have, like them and say they are better suited for dual-purpose: music/HT. Personally, I would not recommend the RTiA as a dual-purpose speaker, but would only recommend them for HT, which is what they were designed to be used for.

    I'll let someone else chime in as to the capabilities of the Denon, in regards to powering the speakers.
    https://usa.denon.com/en-us/shop/receivers/avrx2600h_d#divSubscribe
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,806
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    ^ Summed up nicely ^
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,464
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    Hey Raj,

    I agree with Hermitism on the RTi or RTiA for music or combo use. I also had RTi series, and while I enjoyed them for theater, I couldn't get comfortable with them for music. In fact, I thought they were awful. Fatiguing within 20 minutes, and just sounded empty in the midrange, with overbearing highs.

    I tried Signature S20s a few years ago, and I was pretty impressed with them for music. I think they're a better choice than RTi for combo use systems where music sound quality is a factor.
    I disabled signatures.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,981
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    If you can bump your budget just a little for the RTiA, I would suggest getting the S20 for your mains.

    I agree with the general consensus about the RTiA. Now, the older iterations are a different story. If you could find the rt55i and ca400i, that would be better than both other options. But I realize that being in India that might not be an option...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • rajakumar
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    Hi all,

    Thanks for your suggestion. Seems like fling with signature series is a better option if I use it for music mostly.

    I also completely agree with rooftop59 and msg that S20 would be a better choice. But, they look very big for a bookshelf speaker. it would be tough to accommodate them in the decor, considering size.

    Thanks,
    Rajkumar
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
    edited September 2020
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    Go w/your Signature plan; “stretch” for the most sub you can. See below.

    Ditto on the RTi A series for music unless you want mod them which I recommend against unless you’re very “handy.”

    I believe many will agree: do NOT short change your sub for your home theatre enjoyment - you’ll thank me later. Save for a Polk 600* series or HTS 12* sub if you’re committed to brand loyalty - separate purchase if you must.

    Either that or bounce ideas off other CP members for an SVS or HSU sub that fits your budget
    *I think either is Polk’s best but ask around.

    BTW: how big is your listening space?

    I wish you the best whatever you decide. Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    edited September 2020
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    I agree with the above, I've owned both RTi ans Signature line. For Movies the RTi is hard to beat for music the Signature was a lot better.

    My wife liked the RTi better, I couldn't turn up my 80's hair metal on the over bright RTi.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • rajakumar
    Options
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    Go w/your Signature plan; “stretch” for the most sub you can. See below.

    Ditto on the RTi A series for music unless you want mod them which I recommend against unless you’re very “handy.”

    I believe many will agree: do NOT short change your sub for your home theatre enjoyment - you’ll thank me later. Save for a Polk 600* series or HTS 12* sub if you’re committed to brand loyalty - separate purchase if you must.

    Either that or bounce ideas off other CP members for an SVS or HSU sub that fits your budget
    *I think either is Polk’s best but ask around.

    BTW: how big is your listening space?

    I wish you the best whatever you decide. Tony

    Hi Tony,

    Thanks for your suggestion. I believe HTS12 would be far off from my budget. I believe i can Spend a little more to get HTS 10. Is that a good choice? Also, my listening space is not big. It is just about 16(L)x11(w)x10(H) in feet. I think this set-up is with HTS 10"would be good enough for an immersive experience.

    Thanks.
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,481
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    Subs are not polk's strong suit. One of the internet direct brands will blow them away. Are SVS, HSU, or any similar available to you?
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
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    DaveHo wrote: »
    Subs are not polk's strong suit. One of the internet direct brands will blow them away. Are SVS, HSU, or any similar available to you?
    raja: what DaveHo said.

    I believe your space is bigger than you think. $ave for your sub as a separate purchase. SVS & HSU sell subs about the same $ as the HTS 12 w/superior performance. The “5” provide the immersion. Trust us on the sub advice - you’ll thank us later.

    Tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • rajakumar
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    gp4jesus wrote: »
    DaveHo wrote: »
    Subs are not polk's strong suit. One of the internet direct brands will blow them away. Are SVS, HSU, or any similar available to you?
    raja: what DaveHo said.

    I believe your space is bigger than you think. $ave for your sub as a separate purchase. SVS & HSU sell subs about the same $ as the HTS 12 w/superior performance. The “5” provide the immersion. Trust us on the sub advice - you’ll thank us later.

    Tony
    DaveHo wrote: »
    Subs are not polk's strong suit. One of the internet direct brands will blow them away. Are SVS, HSU, or any similar available to you?

    Hi Tony and Dave Ho,

    Thanks for your advice. I checked for the pricing and availability. There is no dealer for HSU here in India. Coming to SVS, its starting model SVS SB-1000 Powered Subwoofer or SVS PB-1000 Powered Subwoofer - both of them sell for 77,000 INR in india. While HTS 12" sells at around 47K. I have a budget of 24k initially. I extended it to 35K for HTS10".. I can maximum stretch it until 50K INR. SVS subwoofer for 77000 is still a lot far away from my budget.

    Audio companies are slowly starting up here and we still do not have very good brands available for sale. After sale service also is a big problem if we purchase from US and get them shipped to India.

    The major superior brands we have are Yamaha, elac, Taga Harmony, Polk, Pioneer, KEF, Definitive technology, Fyne audio. There are other premier brands like SVS, B&W which are definitely out of my budget..

    If you know a good subwoofer belonging to one of the above brands, please advise. That would be of really great help.

    Thanks,
    Raja Kumar
  • rajakumar
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    Just to add up a little more - I also Find Wharfdale D- 10 and Dali c-8 /9, Cambridge Audio, Earthquake brand also available in India.

    Do you see any of these brands have better subwoofer than HTS10 that I am considering right now ?
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,608
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    HTS10 might be your best option in this case, with that budget.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,981
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    I completely understand having a budget and sticking to it; to be honest, few people on this forum ever stick to an audio budget, so your words fall on deaf ears lol.

    I will say agree with the others, however, that if you can stash away a few rupees a month for say, 6-12 months and then buy the SVS PB-1000, you will be very happy with that sub and will never wonder. You will still enjoy music and movies with a 5.0 setup in the meantime, but it will be like getting a whole new system when you add the sub down the road.

    On the other hand, you will still get lots of enjoyment with a HTS-10 if that is what you end up going with!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • ken brydson
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    rooftop59 wrote: »

    On the other hand, you will still get lots of enjoyment with a HTS-10 if that is what you end up going with!

    Until the amp fails. Oops, did I say that with my out loud voice?

    Agree with saving up for a more capable/ reliable sub..
  • rajakumar
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    rooftop59 wrote: »
    I completely understand having a budget and sticking to it; to be honest, few people on this forum ever stick to an audio budget, so your words fall on deaf ears lol.
    !

    Ha ha.. Thatz a true Audiophile :smile:
    Until the amp fails. Oops, did I say that with my out loud voice?
    Agree with saving up for a more capable/ reliable sub..

    Oh.. that sounds fearful to me. I understand SVS is probably the best subwoofer out there.. How about Definitive Technology ProSub 800 or KEF Q400b or Yamaha NSW series.. Do you find any of these reliable and better performing than polk HTS 10 .?

    Thanks.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
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    Someone recently posted loving his Klipsch subs; can’t recall who on the “What did you do to your system?” on the 2 channel page

    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • rajakumar
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    Hi,

    Luckily I checked for a couple of sites and got good discount on SVS subwoofer. But, have a small doubt as which one to go for SVS PB100 or SVS SB1000. As I have already mentioned - my usage will be almost 50 -50 for Music and Movies.

    Now- in dilemma as which one to go for.. I just have one doubt. Mine is a small room 16 ft (L) x 11ft (W) x9ft (H).. I doubt SVS PB1000 will literally just make more bass that could disturb other flats.. Is that true? or can i just go with it ?
    Please advise..
    Thanks.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,981
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    I would go with the ported sub, as you can always turn it down. But I have not lived in a flat since college so maybe be other la should chime in.

    You will be very happy with either sub!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,969
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    PB-1000! What he^ said
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work
  • DaveHo
    DaveHo Posts: 3,481
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    Agree, ported.