Request for advice (re speaker surgery)

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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,098
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    slow_polk7 wrote: »
    @drumminman

    That sounds logical enough, but one need only consider the case of a through-hole component on a PCB to realize that the solder is indeed responsible for current flow.

    In that application, yes.

    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,042
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    I was astounded to learn (not that many years ago) that wire wrap is (as folks would put it today) the best practice for many connections. Apparently wire wrap done properly is gas-tight and mechanically extremely robust.

    https://www.jameco.com/Jameco/workshop/TechTip/wirewrap.html
    https://hackaday.com/2018/05/04/ask-hackaday-whatever-happened-to-wire-wrapping/

    Like many really timeless electronics innovations, it was (apparently) developed by the "telephone company" way back when.
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  • StantonZ
    StantonZ Posts: 439
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    Umm...no. I used wire-wrap (back in the day) for proto-typing, but I wouldn't want all the parasitic capacitance (and even inductance) that comes along with it...especially in high-frequency or ruggedized environments.
    Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV
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  • mhardy6647
    mhardy6647 Posts: 33,042
    edited February 2020
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    https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2 books/links/sections/301_discrete wiring.html

    7ikqduk0e30o.png
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  • Kryten
    Kryten Posts: 79
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    I also remember wire wrapping....Gawd we're getting oldER :# (wait, we are experienced, seasoned)
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,338
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    BlueBirdMusic wrote: »
    Then you would use a tool similar to the one below. I purchased one because my Pioneer pl-570 turntable used the wrap method (but soldered also because the pins were round) on power connections for the timing motor that I replaced.

    qutt60jaz9kk.png

    I still have one of those.
    Stan

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    HT:
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
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    Not really- the wire should go through the hole and be flat against the trace so the solder flows over top and holds it in place.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • slow_polk7
    slow_polk7 Posts: 33
    edited March 2020
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    drumminman

    I (dangerously) assume you are attempting to rebut my statement a ways back in this post.
    drumminman wrote: »
    Not really- the wire should go through the hole and be flat against the trace so the solder flows over top and holds it in place.

    IF that were true, you should be happy to eschew solder completely and, using an appropriately high-temp epoxy, simply glue your lead to the pad. In this way, you could completely eliminate the possibility of ever overheating a component, or of lifting a pad.

    I'm being facetious, of course, to make a point.
    In your explanation, solder is the equivalent of a piece of scotch tape, holding the lead against the pad. In a proper solder joint, the solder surrounds the lead, allows it to make electrical contact with the entirety of the pad (not just the tiny area the lead is resting on) and even travels a way up the lead towards the body of the component.

    Even more troublesome is the fact that to do what you're suggesting one would need to bend each component lead, so that after it passes through the hole, it makes a nearly right-angle bend such that it can lay on the pad and be soldered over.

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