Polk rt 2000 subs to create 7.2.4 dolby atmos

Hi there.
I have a pair of polk rt 2000 tower speakers cs 400 center and dipole rear. Im up grading to a denon 6500 reciever. Ive added 4 polk rt80s in the ceiling and added a pair of s20 book shelf speakers. This is all for 7.1.4 dolby atmos. My question is can i use the subs in the rt 2000 to make it a 7.2.4 set up and move the main sub behind the listening position.? Thanks for your time.

Comments

  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 5,135
    edited February 14
    I don't see why not. I don't think those built-in subs are the greatest, so it's good you're not relying on just those. What other sub are you using? Also, that's a nice, beefy AVR, but with 11 speakers to power, be sure to set all your speakers to small with a crossover around 80Hz. And, go easy on the volume control.

    P.S. Welcome!
  • FleggFlegg Posts: 7
    Hi mdaudioguy
    Thanks for the repy, the sub is a polk psw250.even though ive had the speakers set up for years im still a novice at wiring everything up. Do i need to wire the sub part of the rt 2000 differenty to separate the bass. Also the reciever do you mean it would be under powered to power the 11 speakers? Thanks again for the reply
  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,423
    Flegg wrote: »
    Hi mdaudioguy
    Thanks for the repy, the sub is a polk psw250.even though ive had the speakers set up for years im still a novice at wiring everything up. Do i need to wire the sub part of the rt 2000 differenty to separate the bass. Also the reciever do you mean it would be under powered to power the 11 speakers? Thanks again for the reply

    those RT2000s are made to run full range and already have a passive crossover set at 100 HZ for the midrange driver. I would just keep the straps holding together the binding posts and run them full range. Use the volume knob on the back to manually adjust the sub level.

    That is a lot of speakers for one AVR, but they are all pretty easy to drive. I would experiment running the center full range as well, but agree that the rest should be crossed over at 80hz or so...
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Martin Logan Grotto sub; Cambridge Azur 851A; Cambridge Azur 851D; Bryston BPD-1
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,734
    Given the time and resources to go ATMOS it might be worth the wait to get a more capable sub or two. As far as crossover points... I would keep everything in the 70-80 Hz range. Maybe see how the RT 2000's sound with a lower crossover point..

    CS 400 - 3dB down at 50Hz
    RT2000 - 3 dB down at 36Hz
    psw250 - 3dB down at 40Hz

    BTW, SVS is having a Presidents Day sale:
    https://www.svsound.com/collections/outlet-specials/price_under-$500?cjevent=0d91e8914f9111ea809700190a240613&utm_channel=affiliate&utm_source=CommissionJunction

    ....also, there,s always local used HSU, SVS, PSA, Rythmik, etc subs on CL, FB Marketplace, Letgo, Offerup, etc. A 'true" ATMOS setup deserves a 'true' subwoofer.
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • FleggFlegg Posts: 7
    Thanks for the replys so I should leave the tower speakers the way they are reduce the other speakers and add a second sub behind the listener space. Would that be correct?
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,734
    edited February 15
    Flegg wrote: »
    Thanks for the replys so I should leave the tower speakers the way they are reduce the other speakers and add a second sub behind the listener space. Would that be correct?
    Maybe play with lowering the crossover of the RT2000. Not sure about letting them go full range however.

    Also, once you get a better sub.....even something like a used 5-10 year old $150-$300 HSU, SVS, etc in a 10"-15" ported, you will forget about the 8" psw250 and want it out of the house to make room for a second 'real' sub.

    Great center channel and sub integration can make a HT system. Just as the opposite can break a HT system. Your psw250 is not helping or supporting all of those extra channels. You need something capable of generating clean and low impact that these new digital formats provide. Very few will add in a bunch more channels before getting the LFE sub channel/s in order.

    A great sub or two in a Dolby ATMOS setup is money well spent.

    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
  • mdaudioguymdaudioguy Posts: 5,135
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    Flegg wrote: »
    Hi mdaudioguy
    Thanks for the repy, the sub is a polk psw250.even though ive had the speakers set up for years im still a novice at wiring everything up. Do i need to wire the sub part of the rt 2000 differenty to separate the bass. Also the reciever do you mean it would be under powered to power the 11 speakers? Thanks again for the reply

    those RT2000s are made to run full range and already have a passive crossover set at 100 HZ for the midrange driver. I would just keep the straps holding together the binding posts and run them full range. Use the volume knob on the back to manually adjust the sub level.
    I don't have any real experience with those speakers, so I'll defer to others, but can't they be run one of two ways - either full range, or with the upper section connected to your receiver's speaker outputs and the lower section connected to line/LFE outputs?
    WLDock wrote: »
    Flegg wrote: »
    Thanks for the replys so I should leave the tower speakers the way they are reduce the other speakers and add a second sub behind the listener space. Would that be correct?
    A great sub or two in a Dolby ATMOS setup is money well spent.
    Agree, many times over! With such an investment in the receiver and all those speakers to achieve immersive surround, a decent sub or subs is needed for real impact. An 8" sub just doesn't cut it for HT, IMO, especially in a room that I'm assuming is somewhat large for 11 speakers to fit comfortably. A sub such as one of those recommended above would be great.
  • WLDockWLDock Posts: 2,734
    edited February 15
    mdaudioguy wrote: »
    I don't have any real experience with those speakers, so I'll defer to others, but can't they be run one of two ways - either full range, or with the upper section connected to your receiver's speaker outputs and the lower section connected to line/LFE outputs?
    You are correct, they do have this. I used to have a set of RT3000p that have this as well and experimented with it. The OP can for sure experiment with it, it might make a noticeable difference.

    However, lets not forget that surround channels can be full-range and the LFE channel/s is ~ 120Hz - down. Therefore, IMO I would leave the RT2000s alone and maybe let them play down to about 40-50Hz. Then, add in a ported 12"-15" sub connected to the LFE output, placed behind the listening position....or wherever it performs best.
    FAMILY ROOM
    HDTV - Sharp AQUOS LC-70LE600U 70" | AVR/Streamer - Onkyo TX-NR3008 | Amp - Parasound HCA-1203A
    Blu-Ray/Media/Gaming - Sony PS3-320GB / Microsoft Xbox One | Broadcast - Xfinity X1 Platform
    Front Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Center Spkrs - Coming...DIY Statement II | Rear Spkrs - Artison Portrait LRS
    Sub - DIY Stereo Integrity HT 15 | Sub Amp - Dayton Audio SA1000
    Wire - Audioquest Type 4, BJC Belden 5000 | HDMI - BJC Belden | Power Cables - Pangea | Surge - Monster
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