RTA12 tweeter question

Get another Peerless. There is universal agreement among those that know more than I (and have compared) that the Peerless is better. They show up on on Ebay. You want the same tweeter in both speakers. By the way, I have a pair of the originals (1980) that are quite impressive in their sound after a full blown series of modifications. It took time, effort and expense, but was well worth it. The most rewarding mods were a DHS Speaker Service (David Shirly) crossover rebuild (Sonicaps/Mills resistors), new Cardas binding posts on aluminum discs, and a David Shirly recommended structural/acoustical mod that overdamped the outer woofers to mimic the crossover frequency roll-off of later versions of the RTA line (dramtically improves imaging/detail). I also replaced the internal wiring with high purity Neotech OCC wire, bypassed the fuses, added more damping material under the crossover module, and did all the other standard upgrades recommended here one the Polk Forum. I can walk you through any/all of these if you desire (relevant threads are on this forum).

I used 14 gauge stranded Neotech OCC wire and high silver content solder. I didn't replace the wiring on the crossovers, just all the internal wiring.

The crossover module on the original RTA-12 came boxed by itself. Once installed it sits on top of the cabinet and is connected to the internal wiring via that little "pinch" connector at the top of the cabinet. The design idea was to set the tweeter back a bit from the midwoofers for better time alignment (therefore these speakers don't require any tilt or rake angle). If you wanted you could replace all the wiring on the crossovers, to the tweeters, and the wiring to that connector on the top of the cabinet (DHS Speaker Service offered Speakon connectors for this). You have to replace the original female socket on the top of the main cabinet as well etc. My original connectors were in good shape and the original wiring on the crossovers and tweeters is just a few inches in length so we elected to go with the original set-up. I replaced all the wiring inside the cabinet from the binding posts to all the internal drivers, and spliced/soldered together inside at the female crossover connector mentioned above. By the way, compared to the replacement Cardas binding posts, my original posts sounded horrible. I don't think one can really evaluate these speakers until those are replaced. However, my old binding posts may have been worse (oxidized?) than some. Also, my binding posts cups were cracked from age, so I mounted the new posts on some thick aluminum discs I had made at a local machine shop. I think you can get the original style plastic cups as well.