Any amp recommendations for 703?

Just grab a pair of 703 when this model is on sale at $449. Found I need an amp to drive them, after hours of research on internet, I think Yamaha A-S501 is a good fit for a non HiFi man, any suggestions?

Comments

  • DSkip wrote: »
    Dayens Menuetto

    2x50 / 8 Ohm
    2x70 / 4 Ohm

    isn't it too low?
  • audioluvraudioluvr Posts: 1,990
    koote wrote: »
    DSkip wrote: »
    Dayens Menuetto

    2x50 / 8 Ohm
    2x70 / 4 Ohm

    isn't it too low?

    Think quality, not quantity.
    One foot on audio nirvana and the other in the poor house.
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 4,188
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/168143/results-integrated-shootout-with-lsim703/p1

    I also had good results with a Peachtree Nova.

    If you are a non hifi man then an amp probably isn’t necessary. What are you using now?
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • I have the Yamaha A-S501 with the 703s in my home office and like it a lot and think it’s good bang for the buck. Many here have had Dayens and speak highly of the combo.
    Living Room
    Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Parasound P5, Parasound A23, Yamaha BD-S681, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, Polk S60, Polk S30, Samsung 60" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 24,903
    koote wrote: »
    DSkip wrote: »
    Dayens Menuetto

    2x50 / 8 Ohm
    2x70 / 4 Ohm

    isn't it too low?
    audioluvr wrote: »
    koote wrote: »
    DSkip wrote: »
    Dayens Menuetto

    2x50 / 8 Ohm
    2x70 / 4 Ohm

    isn't it too low?

    Think quality, not quantity.

    According to Polks specs from https://d3vqw2nv1topde.cloudfront.net/assets/Product Documents/Product Information Sheets/LSiMSeries InfoSheet.pdf, the nominal sensitivity of this speaker's 88 dB SPL at 1 meter for 2.83 AC volts input. The impedance is listed as "compatible with 8 ohm" (whatever that means); at face value, 50 watts is probably OK -- depends on the size and acoustical 'state' of the room in question, one's taste in music and how loud one likes to play it. It also depends, a lot, on the actual impedance curve of this speaker (which is a pretty good guide to how easy or difficult of a load it is for an amplifier to drive).

    Unfortunately, that information isn't available from Polk. Fortunately, John Atkinson at Stereophile actually tested these, and his comments are illuminating
    https://www.stereophile.com/content/polk-lsiiim703-loudspeaker-measurements

    All this being said, it's always a good idea to go with empiricism -- if folks say that these amps work well with these speakers... they probably do.

    And I totally agree that the quality of an amplifier's output, umm, trumps the sheer number of watts on tap. :) Indeed, especially at low volume levels, many high power amplifiers are, simply, not at their best.


  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,327
    All i can say is that the mid bass bloat did not come under control until I got a 200 WPC rotel RB 993. A Marantz AVR was the pre. That was a pretty sweet combo...
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Martin Logan Grotto sub; Cambridge Azur 851A; Cambridge Azur 851D; Bryston BPD-1
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
  • ClipdatClipdat Posts: 7,744
    Parasound is a good match for the LSiM series.
  • EmlynEmlyn Posts: 2,587
    edited September 2019
    My rule of thumb is that the original retail price of an amp + preamp or integrated amp should be close to or above the original retail price of a pair of speakers being driven by the combo. The price the LSiM line is being discounted to does not reflect their performance capabilities. The Yamaha integrated will work, but it will not get the best out of the LSiM speakers. If the short term goal is just to get decent sound out of the 703s the S501 would be fine. The Signature line would really be a better match for the S501 though. With the 703s, I'd at least kick up the integrated to the S801 model.

    I am currently using a Parasound A21 on mine, but an A23 also works well.
    1. Polk LSiM707, 704C, 703; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A23 amp; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Sonic Frontiers Line 3 Preamp; Classe Model 25 amp; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Oppo 105D; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio Power Director; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Parasound JC2BP and A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; MIT S3 cables
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 24,903
    edited September 2019
    You guys have some odd surrogate markers for pairing amplifiers and loudspeakers. ;)


    FWIW -- I like to use my ears.

    E.g., I am sure you can find some perfectly awful 200 wpc amplifiers to pair with these Polks. Heck, I can even think of some ;)


    Likewise, price... well... is that MSRP, Amazon, Walmart, used, or close-out street price?

    Sorry, I am being unnecessarily (if not atypically :/ ) argumentative -- I am really mostly amused by these rules of thumb -- not really dead-set against them.

    Can't beat empiricism, though -- e.g., @DSkip, presumably, has listented to the specific pairing he recommends (I have not!), and 'reports from the field' suggest he has a pretty good sense of good sound. I.e., I'd certainly give serious consideration to his suggestion, but I'd sure as heck want to give a serious listen before plunking down filthy lucre for one (or, at least, have a relatively painless return option if a pre-purchase auditions' not possible).

    And not that the other folks replying to this thread don't speak from relevant experience, but I've become a lot less enamored of, shall we say, rubrics (or recipes) for good sounding hifi in the past couple of decades.

    Sorry to be tangenting again :p

  • rooftop59rooftop59 Posts: 6,327
    Jeebus mark did you actually read my post? I gave no rule of thumb. I tried several amps and didn’t get sound that I was really satisfied with until I paired them with a specific amp, a rotel RB993 that happens to be rated at 200 wpc. I did NOT say only a 200 wpc amp would work fwiw...
    Living Room 2.1: Dynaudio Contour 1.3mkii; Martin Logan Grotto sub; Cambridge Azur 851A; Cambridge Azur 851D; Bryston BPD-1
    Game Room HT: Denon AVR-X4200w; Definitive Technology SM350; Definitive Technology LCR2000; Definitive Technology Procinema 800; Mirage Nanasats; Sub - HSU VTF-2 MK5
    Master Bedroom
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Definitive Technology SM45; ACI Titan Subwoofer; Squeezebox Touch
  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 24,903
    edited September 2019
    Yup, sure did. I inferred that you thought the 200 wpc part was important. It may or may not be. Thus (half of) my little tirade.

    The 200 WPC was, I presume, important in your analysis, since you mentioned it.
    I guess the important part was the amplifier, not the power output. I do apologize that I misapprehended that.
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    All i can say is that the mid bass bloat did not come under control until I got a 200 WPC rotel RB 993. A Marantz AVR was the pre. That was a pretty sweet combo...

  • PSOVLSK wrote: »
    https://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/168143/results-integrated-shootout-with-lsim703/p1

    I also had good results with a Peachtree Nova.

    If you are a non hifi man then an amp probably isn’t necessary. What are you using now?
    I need amp since I am going to use this pair of 703 with my TV. I don't have any AVRs.
  • Emlyn wrote: »
    My rule of thumb is that the original retail price of an amp + preamp or integrated amp should be close to or above the original retail price of a pair of speakers being driven by the combo. The price the LSiM line is being discounted to does not reflect their performance capabilities. The Yamaha integrated will work, but it will not get the best out of the LSiM speakers. If the short term goal is just to get decent sound out of the 703s the S501 would be fine. The Signature line would really be a better match for the S501 though. With the 703s, I'd at least kick up the integrated to the S801 model.

    I am currently using a Parasound A21 on mine, but an A23 also works well.
    Thanks, A801 is affordable, what is the difference between A801 and A501?

  • mhardy6647mhardy6647 Posts: 24,903
    edited September 2019
    I would agree, but I would also say "both and" for the parameters of sensitivity* (not efficiency per se -- sensitivity is a more 'real world' parameter... well, at least, it's easier to quantify!) and the impedance curve. That said, nasty-a$$ impedance curves and low sensitivity tend to go hand in hand, IME/IMO. :(

    _______________
    * The efficiency/sensitivity thing is a bit of a sore subject for me, too -- sorry! Yeah, I realize that most folks use the terms interchangeably, and we do know what they mean. Efficiency is a measure of just that -- the percentage of input electrical power converted to output acoustic power. Efficiency is independent of distance. Sensitivity is a measure of dB SPL per unit of input power (usually 2.83 AC volts, which is 1 watt into 8 ohms) at a fixed distance (usually 1 meter) from a loudspeaker under test. :| Sensitivity varies with distance; a speaker capable of 88 dB SPL at 1 meter for (nominally) 1 watt input produces (in free space) 85 dB at 2 meters, 82 dB at 4 meters, etc.



  • I have the Yamaha A-S501 with the 703s in my home office and like it a lot and think it’s good bang for the buck. Many here have had Dayens and speak highly of the combo.
    Thanks, got a positive feedback on A501+703 combo:)
  • EmlynEmlyn Posts: 2,587
    koote wrote: »
    Thanks, A801 is affordable, what is the difference between A801 and A501?

    The 801 has a stronger power supply and a built in USB DAC. I think it's a better value overall for the price difference.

    1. Polk LSiM707, 704C, 703; Dual SVS SB2000 subwoofers; Marantz SR7011 receiver; Parasound A23 amp; Oppo 205; Sony 65" 4K TV; FIOS; PS Audio Power Plant Premier; MIT S2 cables
    2. JM Labs Electra 920.1; Sonic Frontiers Line 3 Preamp; Classe Model 25 amp; Sony HAP-Z1ES; Oppo 105D; Music Hall MMF7 and Acoustech phono pre; PS Audio Power Director; MIT S1 Cables
    3. Polk LSiM703; Parasound JC2BP and A21; Sony 48" 4K TV; Wyred4Sound DAC 2; Oppo 203; Squeezebox Touch; MIT S3 cables
  • Emlyn wrote: »
    koote wrote: »
    Thanks, A801 is affordable, what is the difference between A801 and A501?

    The 801 has a stronger power supply and a built in USB DAC. I think it's a better value overall for the price difference.

    The 801 is better, I got a great deal on 501 and with the Auralic Mini it’s fine for office duty with the 703s. There are certainly better options and the 703s were much livelier with my Parasound stack but that’s in the main system. Maybe the OP can give us his budget and we can help spend his money😀
    Living Room
    Yamaha Aventage RX-A 1060, Parasound P5, Parasound A23, Yamaha BD-S681, Cambridge Audio Azur 851N, Polk S60, Polk S30, Samsung 60" LED

    Office
    Yamaha A-S501, Auralic Aries Mini, LSiM 703s

    Douglas Connection ICs and Cables
  • PSOVLSKPSOVLSK Posts: 4,188
    Just a point of clarification: if you don’t have an AVR you’ll either need one plus an amp or you’ll need an integrated.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
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