Monitor 70 upgrade to RTiA9
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surreality87
Posts: 10
in Speakers
Hi All,
hoping to get some input from everyone about possibly upgrading my towers. my current set up is: first gen Monitor series, 70's up front and 30's for surround with a CS2 center and a dsw-550 sub. this is driven by a Sony Str-da5600es with the towers Bi-amped. I've been pretty happy with my set up but within the last year or two i really dove into vinyl. I got a Rega P2 with an Ortofon blue cartridge. It sounds amazing but I'm starting to notice a lacking in vocal and high range clarity. It shows the most with older vinyl which I know will have inherent degrading and is to be expected to a point. But I still would like some more clarity and presence with the vocals.
I'm wondering if anyone can speak for the RTiA9's and what I should expect from them. From what I can tell both tower speakers share the same tweeter so I'm hesitant to expect much more from the RTiA9's but I also know the extra mid driver and better crossovers should come into play.
Polk's dealer locator doesn't seem to be working for me so I don't know where I could go to listen to them or if anyone would even have them on display anymore.
I would appreciate anyone's input about the RTiA9's or any suggestions to get more clarity from my current set up if that's possible. Also if anyone wants to recommend other speakers besides the RTi's I don't want to get into anything bright or metal as my ears get exhausted quickly with bright highs.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Kurt
hoping to get some input from everyone about possibly upgrading my towers. my current set up is: first gen Monitor series, 70's up front and 30's for surround with a CS2 center and a dsw-550 sub. this is driven by a Sony Str-da5600es with the towers Bi-amped. I've been pretty happy with my set up but within the last year or two i really dove into vinyl. I got a Rega P2 with an Ortofon blue cartridge. It sounds amazing but I'm starting to notice a lacking in vocal and high range clarity. It shows the most with older vinyl which I know will have inherent degrading and is to be expected to a point. But I still would like some more clarity and presence with the vocals.
I'm wondering if anyone can speak for the RTiA9's and what I should expect from them. From what I can tell both tower speakers share the same tweeter so I'm hesitant to expect much more from the RTiA9's but I also know the extra mid driver and better crossovers should come into play.
Polk's dealer locator doesn't seem to be working for me so I don't know where I could go to listen to them or if anyone would even have them on display anymore.
I would appreciate anyone's input about the RTiA9's or any suggestions to get more clarity from my current set up if that's possible. Also if anyone wants to recommend other speakers besides the RTi's I don't want to get into anything bright or metal as my ears get exhausted quickly with bright highs.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Kurt
Comments
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If you do not like bright then RTiA9's are not for you. Your receiver also my not be up for the task to drive them. I'd look into the signature 60's they may be your cup of tea. They are not a theater reference speaker like the RTiA series. The Signature series do very well with music.
The last point you can't biamp from a receiver no matter what the literature says it's marketing gimmick and can actually degrade the sound. The more speakers you hook up the less power is available to your speakers in the long run.
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Pitdogg2 I'm curious how the RTi's would be too bright for me when they have the same tweeter as the Monitor 70's which I currently own. does the crossover change them that much? I've always known silk dome to be on the softer side.
Also for Bi-amping i don't understand how that's a marketing gimmick when my receiver is taking the surround back channels and reassigning what they do. its just rerouting power that wouldve gone to other speakers in the system. I certainly noticed a difference when i switched to the bi-amp and have been running the system that way for 10ish years with no sign of degrading. -
pitdogg2 is right you are using the same power supply for all channels in a receiver. It all comes from the same place.
When you are Bi amping you have to have 2 power supplies for each set of wires(2 amps) It is all a marketing Hype.
They A9s are amazing Theater speakers but if Music is your main use go with the S60s. You will also need aroound 200 watts per channel from outboard amplification if you go with the 9s. All those drivers love power.Main room- RTiA9 x4, CSiA6, in ceiling Atmos RT-70 x4, SVS PC 4000 x2, Marantz 8805A, OPPO 203, Emotiva DR3 G3, Emotiva XPA-2 G3, Emotiva XPA-5 G3, Emotiva X300, Sony 75" 940E, Panasonic Plasma VT50, PS Audio Power Port X2, PS Audio AC-5 x8, AQ Rocket 33 Biwire speaker cables, AQ King Cobra XLR IC, Furman PFi20 W/Cullen cable, SoildSteel S4-4 rack, Gik room treatments
Office- Legend L600, in ceiling Polk RC80i, Marantz 7704, OPPO 203, Pioneer Elite PDF-59 CD, PSA Stellar 300, Sony 55" 800B, Gik room treatment
Master BR- Signature ES60, Signature S35 Center, Signature S15 Dolby Height, LSI700 in ceiling, SVS-SB4000, Marantz 5012, Emotiva XPA5 G2, OPPO 203, Pioneer DVL-919 Laser Disc, Sony 55" OLED
Patio- SDI Atrium8 x3, Emotiva A-100 amps x3 -
so if I went to the S60's what would I expect coming from the Monitor's? I would expect clearer highs but i feel like with mid's and lows it would be a step down in performance?
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99% if home theater receivers are rated with only the front two channels and at 1khz not 20h to 20khz. Read audio mags they have proved it over and over. Take a 120wpc x5 reciever and run 5 speakers the output is about 60wpc x5 not 120.
Do a search here it has been discussed 1000x. If you like it fine no worries. The crossovers in the RTiA are voiced way different than the monitor series so yes they are a hotter brighter tweeter for theater. They need lots of current to get the best from them and control all the drivers.
Get your ears on both the signature line and the RTiA and go from there.
A receiver has only one power supply it can't double the power from 8 to 4 ohm like some amplifiers. Some amps double the power from 8 ohm to 4 then again from 4 to 2 ohm.
My point is the power supply is where manufacturers of recievers skimp. It cost a lot of money to build great power supplies with great secondaries and STILL meet the price point that will sell it affordably.
Trust me I'm not calling your baby ugly. -
The RTiA tweeters are VERY different from the monitor series. Much brighter. Annoying as hell for music imho.
If you can get the s60s on discount from Adorama or Polk eBay store they are a great deal and should be a nice upgrade. But if you really want to step it up, wait until adorama brings back a killer deal on the LSiM707s. Those will bring your vinyl to life...
Personally I think that you should look on the used market at other brands besides Polk. I really like my Dynaudios and PSB bookies (both better than the LSiM703s that I owned), and if I have space I would looking for tower versions of one of those. Lots of great brands out there, especially at used prices. I would get my read and research on and make an upgrade that will last!Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
by chance does anyone have any recommendations for getting a little more clarity out of my monitor 70's? I'm really pretty happy with them otherwise except when it comes to some vocals and highs that just feel a little soft.
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surreality87 wrote: »by chance does anyone have any recommendations for getting a little more clarity out of my monitor 70's? I'm really pretty happy with them otherwise except when it comes to some vocals and highs that just feel a little soft.surreality87 wrote: »by chance does anyone have any recommendations for getting a little more clarity out of my monitor 70's? I'm really pretty happy with them otherwise except when it comes to some vocals and highs that just feel a little soft.
The main advice has already been given: a better receiver with preouts (I would recommend marantz or denon) and a high current 2 channel amp like a used parasound hca-1200 or 1500, rotel, b&k, etc. then if you really want to make then sing get a separate 2 channel pre or integrated with ht bypass...Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
surreality87 wrote: »by chance does anyone have any recommendations for getting a little more clarity out of my monitor 70's? I'm really pretty happy with them otherwise except when it comes to some vocals and highs that just feel a little soft.
I have never owned Monitor 70's, but everything I have read about them is that they NEED a lot of power to make them open up. A typical AVR isn't going to provide that. -
I don't think you mentioned what you're using for a phono preamp.; Are you plugging your turntable into the Sony receiver or do you have an external phono preamp? That can make a lot of difference.
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surreality87 wrote: »by chance does anyone have any recommendations for getting a little more clarity out of my monitor 70's? I'm really pretty happy with them otherwise except when it comes to some vocals and highs that just feel a little soft.surreality87 wrote: »by chance does anyone have any recommendations for getting a little more clarity out of my monitor 70's? I'm really pretty happy with them otherwise except when it comes to some vocals and highs that just feel a little soft.
The main advice has already been given: a better receiver with preouts (I would recommend marantz or denon) and a high current 2 channel amp like a used parasound hca-1200 or 1500, rotel, b&k, etc. then if you really want to make then sing get a separate 2 channel pre or integrated with ht bypass...
My receiver is actually a pretty decent ES line Sony from several years ago. I have full preouts. I like the idea of a separate 2 channel amp but I assume I'll need 2 if I'm going to continue bi-amping them? -
I don't think you mentioned what you're using for a phono preamp.; Are you plugging your turntable into the Sony receiver or do you have an external phono preamp? That can make a lot of difference.
The Sony has a Dedicated Phono input. I don't know how much of a gimmick it is but my receiver has an Analog direct mode which shuts off all unnecessary electronics. -
surreality87 wrote: »surreality87 wrote: »by chance does anyone have any recommendations for getting a little more clarity out of my monitor 70's? I'm really pretty happy with them otherwise except when it comes to some vocals and highs that just feel a little soft.surreality87 wrote: »by chance does anyone have any recommendations for getting a little more clarity out of my monitor 70's? I'm really pretty happy with them otherwise except when it comes to some vocals and highs that just feel a little soft.
The main advice has already been given: a better receiver with preouts (I would recommend marantz or denon) and a high current 2 channel amp like a used parasound hca-1200 or 1500, rotel, b&k, etc. then if you really want to make then sing get a separate 2 channel pre or integrated with ht bypass...
My receiver is actually a pretty decent ES line Sony from several years ago. I have full preouts. I like the idea of a separate 2 channel amp but I assume I'll need 2 if I'm going to continue bi-amping them?
One other point of clarification: you are not actually bi-amping your speakers. You are using one amp (the single amp in your receiver that is just used to power up to 7 speakers and reduces its output based on the number of connected speakers) and two runs of speaker wire. In order to actually bi-amp, at the least you need two separate amps, but those two amps are definitely not better than one high current amp with twice as much power, so why bother with two runs on cables? And besides, your tweeters need WAY less power than those woofers, so if you got two amps the one going to the highs would be wasted.
So yes, get one good, powerful amp and see if you feel like that solves your problem. If you still feel like your missing something, welcome to the rabbit hole lol...Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Thanks for all the input rooftop, definitely gives me a direction to head.
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Short version of my journey might help. My first speakers were the same Monitor 70's you have. I ran them off a HK receiver and I agree with your feeling on wanting them to open up more. I added a 200w B&K reference amp and they were better, but the difference was subtle to me.
I then upgraded to Polk LSi 15 speakers and was blown away. The sound was far more open. I then upgraded to LSiM 705's and they were like the 15's on steroids. Same sound as the 15's, but filled out.
I then upgraded to my current GoldenEar Tritons and that took everything to the next level.
I've tried other speakers here and there, but what I listed above was my main path.
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Also, you know this, but the different pressings of albums can dramatically affect the presentation through your speakers. I have the 2m Blue cartridge and it is definitely open/forward, so that is not the issue.
IMO your most dramatic changes would result from improving equipment in this order.
1) Speakers
2) Dedicated phono amp
3) Dedicated power amp2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A -
I agree with @hochpt21 that there is a pretty low ceiling as far as what your speakers are capable of: don’t get me wrong, they are nice for the money, but that tweeter just ain’t that detailed. It would probably cost $20 max on partexpress.com lol. If you really want a difference, upgrade to the LSiMs or a different brand of speakers. BUT you’ll want better power no matter what, so it doesn’t hurt to start there...Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
I think I’d double check your cartridge alignment, tracking weight with a digital scale and your anti-skate as starters
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Bi-Amping with an AVR is a no no. Think of the AVR's power supply as a faucet, you can add as many "Y" and spliter 's as you want but the same amount of water will still come out. Best to replace the brass jumper on the speaker with speaker wire and run full range.
For speakers RTi are more geared for HT. Music Signature and LSiM would be what to look for. I'm not a fan of the monitor series
Your AVR is not bad, a Sony ES is actually great with music. adding an amp would do wonders, even an Emotiva BasX-A300When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
Surreality87, welcome to the club!
I did what you are considering. From M70's, 40's, 30's and the CS2, to the RTiA9's with the CSiA6 and FXiA6's.
It was a great move in detail and I didn't mind the brightness "too" much. I did some experimenting and found that with more power behind the A9, it became less bright, yes sir, smoothed right out it did.
I did back to back comparisons using a CD from Chicago's horn section, doesn't get any brighter than that
I spent a few years grooming the A9's for 2ch, worked on placement, room treatments, using external power and cables with good copper conductors with plenty of shielding. I got them sounding so good in fact, that my ex (married that the time of her statement) said that she preferred the A9 over the LSiM703 for 2ch.
Regarding the M70's, I set them up for a demo for a perspective buyer and had them hooked into my 300wpc amp that I was using to drive the A9's. I demoed some Pink Floyd, Lynnard Skynnard, the "Kill box" scene from Iron Man 2. We cranked it and man, I have never heard my M70's sound so good. Bass that I didn't know existed, detailed highs that actually made me think twice about selling them. The kid did not even think twice about giving me my asking price.
All that being said, the A9's have won my heart hands down for both theater and for 2ch. My 703's are currently set up as rears but plan to use them in a dedicated 2ch room one day.Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2
Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display
EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman -
Thanks for the input Geoff4rfc and love the profile pic! Based on what everyone has been saying, I think I'm going to try amping my M70's to start things off. as was mentioned earlier if they still don't sound better then at least I have the amp. the issue now is I've been content with my system for so long that I don't even know where to start looking for an amp. I was trying to stay in the $200-$400 range but for the power I need (I'm thinking 150 watts a channel) that's proving to be tough. I don't know whats what when it comes to used either so I'm just going to have to settle in and do some research.
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surreality87 wrote: »Thanks for the input Geoff4rfc and love the profile pic! Based on what everyone has been saying, I think I'm going to try amping my M70's to start things off. as was mentioned earlier if they still don't sound better then at least I have the amp. the issue now is I've been content with my system for so long that I don't even know where to start looking for an amp. I was trying to stay in the $200-$400 range but for the power I need (I'm thinking 150 watts a channel) that's proving to be tough. I don't know whats what when it comes to used either so I'm just going to have to settle in and do some research.
https://emotiva.com/collections/amps/products/a-300 I had this amp before I went for a big one. nice amp with good power. Use some nice Audioquest RCA's match is well.When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music -
Parasound HCA 1500
B&K Reference 200.22 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A -
I actually have a local record shop I deal with and I gave him a call and he has an NAD amp at 150 watts a channel for $300. I'm going to look at it tomorrow.
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See if he would let you try it out in-home.2 ChannelTurntable - VPI Classic 2/Ortofon 2M BlueAmplification - Rogue Audio Cronus Magnum II, Parks Audio Budgie PhonoSpeakers - GoldenEar Triton 17.2 Home TheaterDenon AVR-X3300W; Rotel RMB-1066; Klipsch RP-280F's, Klipsch RP-450C, Polk FXi3's, Polk RC60i; Dual SVS PB 2000's; BenQ HT2050; Elite Screens 120"Man CaveTurntable - Pro-Ject 2.9 Wood/Grado GoldAmplification - Dared SL2000a, McCormack DNA 0.5 DeluxeCD: Cambridge AudioSpeakers - Wharfedale Linton 85th Anniversary; LSiM 703; SDA 2A
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I had the Monitor 70's and then now the RTiA9's .....I have read they are bright but never heard they didnt do music well...considering I dont do anything with mine but music and it sounds much fuller than the 70's did.
Of course if they are truyly bright turn down the treble and or get a Preamp that is warm not bright. you might be able to use that SOny ES.
I am running a NAD C160 preamp to some crown and some other top secret amps and it sounds fantastic.
make sure you understand 300rms is about minimum to run the RTiA9's ..they eat power for breakfast. -
For anyone interested I ended up going with the NAD amp from my local record shop. its still not where I want the vocals to be 100% but it is better and I am happier with it.
I think I'll be happy with the monitors yet for a while (but will still pine for a set of RTI's).
On a related note all this comparison got me curious, per Polks description both the monitor's and RTI's have "Dynamic Balance silk polymer composite". are these the same tweeter and if so what makes the RTI's brighter? -
Assuming you’re right, any, two or more, or all of the following:surreality87 wrote: »On a related note all this comparison got me curious, per Polks description both the Monitor 70s and RTis (or RTi As?*) have "Dynamic Balance silk polymer composite". Are these the same tweeter and if so what makes the RTI's brighter?
1. XO component quality,
2. the resultant F3 frequency(ies),
3. driver interaction w/each other
4. driver interaction w/the front baffle
5. any EQ designed into the XO.
*the RTi & “RTi A” descendants use the same tweeter though the “As” are said to be less bright
3-4 years from now, after I move my system, if you didn’t mind me performing “surgery” on your 70s, I’d gladly have a looksee inside plus connect to my system to check against my ‘A7s.
Too busy having retired ~ 3 weeks ago w/the honey-do list.
Felice Natale! Tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out 8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out *soldered LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & “Plugged*” Mids - 981, connected w/MP Premiere ICs Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s *Xschop's handy work -
The RTiA tweeters are VERY different from the monitor series. Much brighter. Annoying as hell for music imho.
If you can get the s60s on discount from Adorama or Polk eBay store they are a great deal and should be a nice upgrade. But if you really want to step it up, wait until adorama brings back a killer deal on the LSiM707s. Those will bring your vinyl to life...
Personally I think that you should look on the used market at other brands besides Polk. I really like my Dynaudios and PSB bookies (both better than the LSiM703s that I owned), and if I have space I would looking for tower versions of one of those. Lots of great brands out there, especially at used prices. I would get my read and research on and make an upgrade that will last!
I find my RTi-a5’s great for both music and HT. Although I have read many reviews that some who have the 7’s and 9’s do find those two bright on the top end. I believe I read, could be wrong, that Polk used a Different material for the drivers in the RTi-a5’s than in the 7’s and 9’s any truth to that?
