Best speaker wire

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Comments

  • K_M
    K_M Posts: 1,627
    tonyb wrote: »
    mrloren wrote: »
    Everyone has there own opinion.

    AQ Type 4 has been the best speaker I have used. Is there better wire, most likely yes. Can I get 3 sets for $50 like I did off CL, doubt it.

    If someone wants to send me some wire to try I have no problems doing a blind test on my kids. They use my system as much as I do.

    If your only criteria for wire is cheap, then your spot on. My question to you would be....do you hold the same criteria for your other components ?

    You can get a Pre amp for a 50 too on Craigslist, why spend more ?

    When we start treating cables as a component in our systems, that's when thinks start to click. Too bad some don't see it like that.

    There are literally hundreds of connections and wires within a system. They are links from one part to another, not technically a component.
    The only goal from a connection or link is to not degrade the signal.

    The ideal wire will not degrade the signal.
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    K_M wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    mrloren wrote: »
    Everyone has there own opinion.

    AQ Type 4 has been the best speaker I have used. Is there better wire, most likely yes. Can I get 3 sets for $50 like I did off CL, doubt it.

    If someone wants to send me some wire to try I have no problems doing a blind test on my kids. They use my system as much as I do.

    If your only criteria for wire is cheap, then your spot on. My question to you would be....do you hold the same criteria for your other components ?

    You can get a Pre amp for a 50 too on Craigslist, why spend more ?

    When we start treating cables as a component in our systems, that's when thinks start to click. Too bad some don't see it like that.

    There are literally hundreds of connections and wires within a system. They are links from one part to another, not technically a component.
    The only goal from a connection or link is to not degrade the signal.

    The ideal wire will not degrade the signal.

    And that is the whole problem. All wire degrades the signal. The issue is trying to find the wire that degrades it the least, and that costs money.

    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • K_M
    K_M Posts: 1,627
    BlueFox wrote: »
    K_M wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    mrloren wrote: »
    Everyone has there own opinion.

    AQ Type 4 has been the best speaker I have used. Is there better wire, most likely yes. Can I get 3 sets for $50 like I did off CL, doubt it.

    If someone wants to send me some wire to try I have no problems doing a blind test on my kids. They use my system as much as I do.

    If your only criteria for wire is cheap, then your spot on. My question to you would be....do you hold the same criteria for your other components ?

    You can get a Pre amp for a 50 too on Craigslist, why spend more ?

    When we start treating cables as a component in our systems, that's when thinks start to click. Too bad some don't see it like that.

    There are literally hundreds of connections and wires within a system. They are links from one part to another, not technically a component.
    The only goal from a connection or link is to not degrade the signal.

    The ideal wire will not degrade the signal.

    And that is the whole problem. All wire degrades the signal. The issue is trying to find the wire that degrades it the least, and that costs money.

    That is where I and many disagree. Unless you are going hundreds of feet, a normal length of wire say 10-20 feet will degrade it hardly at all.
    But you are welcome to your view, I just see no evidence supporting it.

    Not trying to argue, but we are not talking NASA here, just audio signals.
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,560
    Kelly is 2019 the year that you try an aftermarket power cable? ;)
  • gdphoto
    gdphoto Posts: 182
    There's a pair of Analysis Plus Oval 9 8 foot pr cables w bananas yellow/black w box for sale here. Geppy1 is asking $295. Would that be a good set for my system?
    Hafler DH220 Power amp Recapped
    Hafler DH110 Preamp Recapped
    Hafler Digital FM Tuner
    Virtue Audio M1 Piano CD Player
    Technics SL-1210-MK5 with a Rega Exact Cartridge
    Polk SDA1c's(Rebuilt XO's by Ben) RDO194 Tweeters
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,708
    tonyb wrote: »
    When we start treating cables as a component in our systems, that's when things start to click. Too bad some don't see it like that.

    Give that man a ceegar!!!



    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • joecoulson
    joecoulson Posts: 4,943
    F1nut wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    When we start treating cables as a component in our systems, that's when things start to click. Too bad some don't see it like that.

    Give that man a ceegar!!!



    By the looks of his Avatar, he probably has one going at all times.
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,477
    gdphoto wrote: »
    There's a pair of Analysis Plus Oval 9 8 foot pr cables w bananas yellow/black w box for sale here. Geppy1 is asking $295. Would that be a good set for my system?

    are they good cables ?? Yes.. A match for YOUR system? That is only for you to decide. you could always flip them if not. A lot of folks do like them.
  • gdphoto
    gdphoto Posts: 182
    I stumbled upon these earlier today.

    https://www.amazon.com/KK-Cable-Speaker-Banana-8banana/dp/B07DLBGRYJ/ref=wl_mb_wl_huc_clickstream_1_dp#HLCXComparisonWidget_feature_div

    The price is right and they are OCC, but I don't know what gauge they are and I never heard of this brand. Any body have experience with these?
    Hafler DH220 Power amp Recapped
    Hafler DH110 Preamp Recapped
    Hafler Digital FM Tuner
    Virtue Audio M1 Piano CD Player
    Technics SL-1210-MK5 with a Rega Exact Cartridge
    Polk SDA1c's(Rebuilt XO's by Ben) RDO194 Tweeters
  • motorhead43026
    motorhead43026 Posts: 3,892
    edited December 2018
    ^^Dude, stick with name brand proven manufactures. I am sure these are some freakin junk cables. You asked for suggestions, why don't you check those out?
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.

    Imagine making politics your entire personality.
  • PSOVLSK
    PSOVLSK Posts: 5,021
    How long of a run to each speaker? I have a pair of Doug's that I'm no longer using. (8ft I think, but they may be 10ft. Possible issue is that they are bi-wire on both ends.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • gdphoto
    gdphoto Posts: 182
    I need a 10 foot pair not biwired. I have a bid in on a pair of Zu cables.
    Hafler DH220 Power amp Recapped
    Hafler DH110 Preamp Recapped
    Hafler Digital FM Tuner
    Virtue Audio M1 Piano CD Player
    Technics SL-1210-MK5 with a Rega Exact Cartridge
    Polk SDA1c's(Rebuilt XO's by Ben) RDO194 Tweeters
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    ^^^^^ What Skip said. For 2 hundie you can find a set of MIT Terminator 2's (which I did). I immediately noticed a performance improvement over my home-made ones. Baby steps for me, but made me a believer! :smile:
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • gdphoto
    gdphoto Posts: 182
    Thanks DSkip! Great advise. I learned a lot here about quality cables. I now realize that if I expect to hear a difference I need to up the budget and that's what I'll do. I will stick with one of the brands mentioned in this post and search for the best deal. I am willing to be patient.
    Hafler DH220 Power amp Recapped
    Hafler DH110 Preamp Recapped
    Hafler Digital FM Tuner
    Virtue Audio M1 Piano CD Player
    Technics SL-1210-MK5 with a Rega Exact Cartridge
    Polk SDA1c's(Rebuilt XO's by Ben) RDO194 Tweeters
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    If you’re patient, zu audio cables can be won for a very good price. I have noticed that they go cheapest on Friday nights (I followed months before I grabbed a pair). I got my libtecs 10 ft for $81 shipped...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    If the OP wins the auction for the Zu Audio cables, he may want to invest in some Zu Audio IC’s as well. Just my $0.02.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • marvda1
    marvda1 Posts: 4,862
    the zu libtec is pretty good, remember it retailed for 1k+
    Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
    Interconnects: Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
    Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
    Puritan PSM156
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,477
    Yes you can't get carried away in a bidding war they will come along again.
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    I like the Zu Audio speaker cables on eBay but you cannot buy bi-wire cables on those auctions
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    K_M wrote: »
    BlueFox wrote: »
    K_M wrote: »
    tonyb wrote: »
    mrloren wrote: »
    Everyone has there own opinion.

    AQ Type 4 has been the best speaker I have used. Is there better wire, most likely yes. Can I get 3 sets for $50 like I did off CL, doubt it.

    If someone wants to send me some wire to try I have no problems doing a blind test on my kids. They use my system as much as I do.

    If your only criteria for wire is cheap, then your spot on. My question to you would be....do you hold the same criteria for your other components ?

    You can get a Pre amp for a 50 too on Craigslist, why spend more ?

    When we start treating cables as a component in our systems, that's when thinks start to click. Too bad some don't see it like that.

    There are literally hundreds of connections and wires within a system. They are links from one part to another, not technically a component.
    The only goal from a connection or link is to not degrade the signal.

    The ideal wire will not degrade the signal.

    And that is the whole problem. All wire degrades the signal. The issue is trying to find the wire that degrades it the least, and that costs money.

    That is where I and many disagree. Unless you are going hundreds of feet, a normal length of wire say 10-20 feet will degrade it hardly at all.
    But you are welcome to your view, I just see no evidence supporting it.

    Not trying to argue, but we are not talking NASA here, just audio signals.
    For mid-level systems, no need to outspend your speakers and other gear. The improvements won't likely be drastic. As you start climbing the ladder with more refined gear, you can hear the differences that better cables (power, interconnects, and speaker) bring.

    I totally get that one person's mid-level is another's final stop, and that's ok. But, those people should recognize that said improvements may not be apparent in their system, but that's not proof that cables don't matter, only that it doesn't matter to them, in their system.

    My Polk RTi 9-speaker HT is strung together with budget zipcord. Had I known then what I know now, I'd have upped that budget a little, however, I'll probably never upgrade now, since most of it is in-wall. My return on that investment (mostly my time) is just not worth it to me.

    My hybrid 2-channel/5.1 HT is a different story. The main left and right are getting the full treatment with incremental cable upgrades, from power to source to speaker, and each swap has had a positive, undeniable effect on the overall sound. Still, the surrounds in that system are connected with standard 14 gauge wire, because it just doesn't matter to me for that application.
  • txcoastal1
    txcoastal1 Posts: 13,124
    No such thing as best

    I've had the good bad and the ugly make both positive and negative audible differences in my systems.

    Years ago I had a pair of **** that worked great on my Usher MD2's at LSAF. We put them on Skips system on another pair of his Usher 6800 series and they were very flat.

    Switched his back to his PNF's I believe and his system was alive again

    ....

    I own a pair of MIT S1.3 shotgun interconnects that have failed in my systems but were the bomb with the Thresholds Modwright pre

    Synergy :#:):/:D
    2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
    Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
    Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
    Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC

    erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a
  • gdphoto
    gdphoto Posts: 182
    I found a pair of 15 ft. MIT AVT3 Speaker Cables for $175 plus S&H. Unless I'm missing something I should grab them. Any reason why I schouldn't?
    Hafler DH220 Power amp Recapped
    Hafler DH110 Preamp Recapped
    Hafler Digital FM Tuner
    Virtue Audio M1 Piano CD Player
    Technics SL-1210-MK5 with a Rega Exact Cartridge
    Polk SDA1c's(Rebuilt XO's by Ben) RDO194 Tweeters
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    gdphoto wrote: »
    I found a pair of 15 ft. MIT AVT3 Speaker Cables for $175 plus S&H. Unless I'm missing something I should grab them. Any reason why I schouldn't?

    Considering the length I think that’s a pretty solid deal. Others probably know pricing better. But yes, a good cable for the $$$
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • K_M
    K_M Posts: 1,627
    [/quote]
    For mid-level systems, no need to outspend your speakers and other gear. The improvements won't likely be drastic. As you start climbing the ladder with more refined gear, you can hear the differences that better cables (power, interconnects, and speaker) bring.

    I totally get that one person's mid-level is another's final stop, and that's ok. But, those people should recognize that said improvements may not be apparent in their system, but that's not proof that cables don't matter, only that it doesn't matter to them, in their system.

    My Polk RTi 9-speaker HT is strung together with budget zipcord. Had I known then what I know now, I'd have upped that budget a little, however, I'll probably never upgrade now, since most of it is in-wall. My return on that investment (mostly my time) is just not worth it to me.

    My hybrid 2-channel/5.1 HT is a different story. The main left and right are getting the full treatment with incremental cable upgrades, from power to source to speaker, and each swap has had a positive, undeniable effect on the overall sound. Still, the surrounds in that system are connected with standard 14 gauge wire, because it just doesn't matter to me for that application.[/quote]

    System price and subjective impressions...huh? Maybe my hearing is bad.....forgot that one...lol

    Still does not change the fact that with short runs of wire, audio is very easily sent with very little degradation.
    There is very little room for improvement.



  • I made my own cables with 12g OFC and sleeved with braided nylon/sst. They're terminated with wire pants and Sewell BP's. I just didn't feel the need to spend a grand on speaker wires but I wanted some decent quality. I'm happy with the ones I made and I'm fairly certain the average listener will not be able to tell the difference between mine and a much more expensive set. And, imho, they look pretty good.
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,902
    K_M wrote: »


    Still does not change the fact that with short runs of wire, audio is very easily sent with very little degradation.
    There is very little room for improvement.
    [/quote]

    No offense here, but you'd be very wrong to think that. Maybe in terms of signal strength vs extremely long runs. More to cables than just signal strength though. Most cables made today, lose very little of the signal even on runs of 20+ feet.

    Sound...is a different matter than signal degradation. A 5 ft. pair of monoprice cables vs a 5 ft pair of Wireworld eclipse, MIT, Acoustic zen, Kimber, even Audioquest, would not be subtle. Most tend to compare cables within the same criteria, cheap, gauge, ofc. Then you'd be correct about little room for improvements.

    Much of this cables thing is trial and error, as already said, not everything is going to be a prince and synergize with your system or ears. Which btw...is also said for every other piece of gear in your system, and why we say to treat the cabling in the same manner.

    That said, many are turned off by the higher costs of better cabling. I have a hard time with it myself as my own wallet is not bottomless. This is why I suggest buying used cables at roughly half of those retail prices. Sometimes even less. Even the budget minded can then experience what better cabling can do for your system.

    Heaven knows, I sure as sheet ain't the only budget conscience guy on the forum. :)
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,517
    edited December 2018
    I've tended to look at spending ~10% of the price of my gear on associated cables.

    Meaning if my entire HT is about 10k of equipment, I should have about 1k TOTAL in cables connecting everything.

    In general that gets me to the mid-fi level of my stuff. Then looking for used results in good deals on cables that are for what I have now as "end-game" as my wallet can afford.

    I've spend years acquiring cables of all sorts as they went on sale and my wallet didnt take nearly the hit it could.

    Some examples:

    Powercables: Stock -> Pangea AC-9 & AC-14 -> PS Audio AC-3's
    Interconnects: Stock ->Signal Cable Analog 2 -> MIT EXp2 -> Kimber Kable Hero
    Speaker Cable: Monoprice 12 gauge -> MIT EXp2 -> Kimber Kable 8VS -> Kimber Kable 8TC (front L/R/C only)
    HDMI: Stock -> Monoprice -> Audioquest Cinnamon

    In general I've found as I moved up each provided a benefit, however moving higher up than I am now has a higher cost to benefit ratio than I AM comfortable with. Everyones wallet is diff, so someone else may go for it and thats cool, or someone else may not want to spend what I have either, which is ALSO ok.

    In general it doesn't cost a LOT to get into better cables. You just have to be super patient for deals and slowly upgrade over time. The upgrades noted above have all been works in progress since I became a member hear over YEARS.

    My fav brands for most to start with are:

    Signal Cable*
    Douglas Connection*
    Blue Jeans Cable
    Zu Audio (ebay only)

    Moving up to the next mid-fi tier IMGO gets you to:
    Wireworld (purchase from @Dskip)
    Kimber Kable
    PS Audio
    MIT

    *members here get 10% off with each vendor
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • Hermitism
    Hermitism Posts: 4,192
    I just want to make one comment about cables and synergy. This example has to do with power cables. Not trying to invoke a debate, just sharing my experimentation. It's nice to experiment once you finally have different stuff to experiment with. I use RTi speakers for my HT. They're bright and I've done a lot of stuff to bring some warmth to that system. Panels, cables, Dynamat in components. When I bought my LSiM speakers, which everyone loves here, and tried them in my HT system, I didn't like them or I didn't like the loss of the top end. The brightness had gone from one extreme with the RTi to the other extreme with the LSiM. Since I have more stuff to mix around since I'm building a two channel system, I tried out PS Audio AC5 power cables in my HT with the 703s; I had Pangea cables there originally which have a very warm sound (in my opinion). The AC5s did something magical to the top end. Even though I still don't really understand how a power cable could change the sound, it did. Power, IC, speaker cables... that's a lot of flavoring or neutrality that you have to get right for each person's system. So I have to amend my former opinion on LSiM speakers not being good HT speakers. It was just bad synergy. Or an ear wax build up. I think there is already a nasty thread here on ear wax.
  • rpf65
    rpf65 Posts: 2,127
    I personally thought that those that said cables matter were completely insane, when I first read it. Others who said it only matters with a long length of cable, I thought were a little bit more sane, but still in need of professional help.

    Then I tried a little bit better cable, Canare 4s11. I don’t know what I first had hooked up to the front three, still have it for surrounds, but I heard a slight improvement. So I started reading.

    Looking at the pricing of I couldn’t, and still can’t believe the price some will pay, but it’s there money. Anyway I was looking and found a good buy on Analysis Plus Black Mesh Oval 9.

    Switching from the Canare to the Analysis Plus made my speakers sound completely different. I honestly couldn’t believe how much better they sounded. Most here, myself included, would not consider LSI M705’s high end speakers, but the improvement was very evident. I heard things in various songs, that I’ve been listening to for over 30 years, that I didn’t know were there.

    Bad part was that the center channel was extremely isolated. So much so that people who could care less about such things asked why my system sounded a little weird. So I bought a pair of 4 foot Clear Ovals, and tried one of them on the center. No more isolation issue.

    Some may consider an 8 foot run long, but in no way is a 4 foot run of speaker cable even close to being considered long. Was pretty happy that I didn’t have to buy the more expensive version to get good results.

    I don’t understand it, and have no interest in finding out why, but different materials, construction techniques, and other things cable companies do will influence the sound of the system. I’ve also heard this on interconnects.

    For the skeptics; No, it isn’t all in my head. I’ve had people over who use their tv speakers, and only listen to music, in their cars, with stock radios hear a difference.

    Even heard a difference when I pulled the RTI A5’s out of the closet and hooked them up. Although it wasn’t as profound as the LSI M’s it was still very noticeable.

    So, to the OP, there is better cable out there than what you’re currently using. It will cost a little, but it doesn’t have to be rediculous. My advice is go to The Cable Companies web site and check out their lending library.
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited December 2018
    A question about these Audioquest speaker cables:

    What is the hierarchy between these two models:

    Type 8

    Rocket 33

    It seems, to me, that the Rocket 33 & Type 8 are very similar to one another as both feature long grain copper and perfect surface copper combinations. You have to step up to the Rocket 44 for a straight perfect surface copper cable.

    The Type 8 & the Rocket 33 are similarly priced at Audio Advisor for a no frills bi-wire cable (actually, the Type 8 is just a little more expensive than the Rocket 33). @mantis ?
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10