Network help/opinions needed

So while fiddling around with the wired part of my home network, I noticed that my 4-port hub behind my HT seemed to not be up to par as far as speed. The specs on it are 10/100,
so I am guessing that it might be causing a bottleneck with my normal connection speed from the cable modem - 200 Mbps. My question, and it may not even be relevant, is should I replace that 4-port with a new one capable of gigabit? It's feeding my Oppo BDP-103, a PS4, a PS3, and my DirecTV HD receiver, so it's not really critical, but the OCD in me wonders if it's worth upgrading.
Thanks!
So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


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«1

Comments

  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 10,862
    I'd say if you found a giga on sale that had more than 4 ports (future proof) go ahead. I'm no IT guy though. Let the pros chime in
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    I can’t imagine that your consistently drawing 200 mbps even at the modem, and I really doubt if your devices need that much...before upgrading grab a laptop and test the speed before and after it goes through the hub. If your losing speed then it might be worth it...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    I can’t imagine that your consistently drawing 200 mbps even at the modem, and I really doubt if your devices need that much...before upgrading grab a laptop and test the speed before and after it goes through the hub. If your losing speed then it might be worth it...

    I did that. I connected my desktop PC through the 4 port hub that used to feed my HT devices, I ran Fast.com and topped out at about 90 Mbps; I consistently hit 200+ when I used ethernet from the routers LAN port (Optimum's one saving grace is their consistent, fast 'net access).
    But I am relocating the router, and figured it would be easier to run one cable to it rather than 5, that's all.


    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    polrbehr wrote: »
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    I can’t imagine that your consistently drawing 200 mbps even at the modem, and I really doubt if your devices need that much...before upgrading grab a laptop and test the speed before and after it goes through the hub. If your losing speed then it might be worth it...

    I did that. I connected my desktop PC through the 4 port hub that used to feed my HT devices, I ran Fast.com and topped out at about 90 Mbps; I consistently hit 200+ when I used ethernet from the routers LAN port (Optimum's one saving grace is their consistent, fast 'net access).
    But I am relocating the router, and figured it would be easier to run one cable to it rather than 5, that's all.


    Well, that certainly is a difference. The question is, does it make a difference? In performance of the attached components, that is. I doubt it does, as 90 is VERY fast. Remember when DSL topped out at like 5 mbps??? Unless I was having problems I would probably just use it till it dies, because who knows what will be available then? Of course, if you have the money and find a really good deal it certainly wouldn't hurt to upgrade...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,308
    edited December 2018
    What kind of switch is it, and how old is it?
    I've seen older gear "get tired". I'd chalk it up to heat, but I don't get into troubleshooting at that level.

    The Netgear ProSafe line is pretty nice for home use, and pretty cheap. GS105, 108, and E series. There are larger ones, too, as well as Power over Ethernet options if you needed to power webcams or a PoE capable access point for WiFi extension.
    https://www.netgear.com/support/product/GS105v5.aspx
    7gkayrfxad0a.png

    Newer stuff can be noticeably faster. You might notice faster initialization of web streaming, or faster recovery from FFWD or RWD operations, for example.

    What I do at home is:
    Modem > WiFi Router > Network Switch

    Then, every other connection comes off the network switch, not the router.

    I have a secondary Netgear network switch set up behind the main system, and use this for Ethernet connections to the TV, TiVo, Squeezebox, and Roku, etc. Everything else in the house gets WiFi. This alleviates some of the load on WiFi when I've got multiple stuff pulling internet.
    I disabled signatures.
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    I'm currently running a netgear switch off the modem directly to my office computer.

    SWITCH NETGEAR|GS105 5P 1000M RTL (same as above?)

    Bought from NewEgg a few years back, very happy with it. Everything else in the house is wireless.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    @msg, it's a D-Link DES-1005E, no idea how old but still maxes out at 100Mbps, it's a cheap looking piece of plastic too. I'm just going to replace it.

    My reason for doing any of this is my router started giving us problems Friday, we had very spotty WiFi and even lost internet connections at random times. I hadn't made any changes to anything in the house, so I just started checking things from the modem -> router. All the cables seemed OK, (even the ones I made myself, those were the first ones I checked :)), at that point I figured I'd separate the router from the ethernet connections I had through it, and move it to another location to see if that might help. I've got a bunch of stuff coming today, hopefully I can get this working again - it sucks having to use 4G when you're used to fast WiFi.
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • trj
    trj Posts: 320
    Depends on what the purpose of that switch is and also the wiring.
    I hope the wiring is at least Cat5/Cat5e to take advantage of gigabit lines.

    Do you have any local servers? Media servers/file servers? If that you have, then an upgrade would be a no brainer. But even if you are just streaming netflix, amazon 4k a higher capacity switch would give you more bandwidth to use when needed. Think about streaming a 4k movie and downloading another one at the same time.

    I'd upgrade to a gigabit switch as they have gotten really cheap.
    I use 8 port version of this:
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N99BBC/ref=twister_B07KHBZ9F6?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

    I specifically like that one because of the single light in the front(an array of blinking lights can be quite distracting) and it blends in with rest of my equipment and I dont have to worry about wifi or clogging up the network. I like to keep everything stationary hard wired and keep only mobile devices on wifi.
    Sony BDP-S6500 | Raspberry Pi 2 | XBOX One S | Wii --> Yamaha RX-V667 --> Adcom 5006 bridged to 175 watts for front LCR -- >Front: Polk Audio RTi8s | Center: CSi5 | Side Surrounds: RTi4s | Rear surrounds: FXiA4s | Cheap 12" sub woofer|Samsung UN60KU6300
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,308
    edited December 2018
    polrbehr wrote: »
    @msg, it's a D-Link DES-1005E, no idea how old but still maxes out at 100Mbps, it's a cheap looking piece of plastic too. I'm just going to replace it.
    Looks like it may be from around Jan 2014 according to the date stamp on the spec sheet
    polrbehr wrote: »
    My reason for doing any of this is my router started giving us problems Friday, we had very spotty WiFi and even lost internet connections at random times. I hadn't made any changes to anything in the house, so I just started checking things from the modem -> router. All the cables seemed OK, (even the ones I made myself, those were the first ones I checked :)), at that point I figured I'd separate the router from the ethernet connections I had through it, and move it to another location to see if that might help. I've got a bunch of stuff coming today, hopefully I can get this working again - it sucks having to use 4G when you're used to fast WiFi.
    So you're actually having some connectivity issues? Is this consistent or did it clear up?

    Do you have a separate modem and router? Not one of the combo units? This is the first place I start whenever trying to help people. I think it's one of those things where dedicated devices work best, the combo units not performing either function as well as separates (hey, what's that sound like? :) )

    The modem is a commonly overlooked place for speed issues until you start experiencing dropouts. Sort of a slow boiling the frog thing.

    There are a few different places speed issues and dropouts can occur, and can even be cumulative, but it's relatively easy to rule out just by process of elimination, testing each piece separately, providing the issue is consistent enough to be able to reproduce.

    ISPs are coming out with some pretty crazy bandwidth upgrade leaps, and a newer gen modem can make a marked difference in your speed, even if you're not upgrading your plan. For these, I like the ARRIS or Netgear modems.

    Which router do you use? Sometimes a firmware upgrade fixes hiccups and weird drops, and they're pretty easy to download and install from within the admin control panel of your router.

    If you need a new router, the Netgear Nighthawks are pretty nice. I went from an Apple Airport Extreme, which used to be "fast" to me, to a Nighthawk AC1900, and I couldn't get over the improvement in response and range (it does kind of eff up my wireless USB mouse/keyboard in the home office space from time to time, but I'll suffer it). I'd always been pretty happy with the APeX units, even having worked with other routers, but the Nighthawk just blew it away. A few of the guys here posted up on them over the past couple of years, I think.
    I disabled signatures.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    If you have trouble spots in your house with wifi range, get a google mesh system. I used to have the same nighthawk as Scott, but in my L shaped 3000 sq ft house I had lots of places that the nighthawk couldn't reach. and each additional unit gives you one Ethernet in and one out, which I connect to an Ethernet switch. While it was expensive, love this setup...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    edited December 2018
    Thanks for the advice and guidance so far, everybody. I've spent the better part of my day off trying to figure out why this is happening.
    @msg, yes the connectivity issues still come and go, though it seems better now? I do use separates, Optimum gave me an Arris TM1602 awhile back, they insist it's their standard modem and a call to CS (per their rep) said the connection was good. Still,
    I made an appt. to have them come Thursday, nothing to lose at this point. I ditched their router last year though, way too many dead spots in my house and no, it's not
    a mansion, it's single story and about 1600 sq ft. I bought a Netgear AC1750 and that made a huge difference in speed and coverage, but that started giving me problems
    the other day, so I decided to get a Netgear AC3200. It even did a firmware update as soon as I hooked it up, but it seems like the same issues are happening. I will likely return it once this is ironed out.
    @rooftop59 at this point I will try just about anything, I can't imagine I've overlooked something at this point, aside from replacing every cable in the network (all pretty new Cat5e cables, btw).
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,308
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    If you have trouble spots in your house with wifi range, get a google mesh system. I used to have the same nighthawk as Scott, but in my L shaped 3000 sq ft house I had lots of places that the nighthawk couldn't reach. and each additional unit gives you one Ethernet in and one out, which I connect to an Ethernet switch. While it was expensive, love this setup...
    Ooh, good idea, I've heard good things about these mesh systems. My boss ended up getting the Netgear Velop mesh system, and he loves it too. His house is older with really dense walls, and he was having dead spot trouble as well.

    Also heard good things about the TP-Link extender that somehow uses your home's electrical wiring?
    I disabled signatures.
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    edited December 2018
    So now my WiFi seems better but the wired part isn’t working at all? Goes from modem to router to new 8port gigabit hub, and it’s absolutely dead. Can’t get much simpler than this and it’s still not working...
    I’m done for today, typing this on my phone just to vent a little :)
    Post edited by polrbehr on
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


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  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,308
    Have you had another look at this today?
    1. New switch powered up?
    2. Cabling correct?
      • Modem > Internet Port on Router (typically yellow)
      • LAN Ports on Router > Ethernet Switch
      • Ethernet Switch > LAN Ethernet Devices
    3. Power cycled all devices? (This order - modem, router, switch, devices. By the time you finish power cycling all devices, the modem should be synced up and online, and everything else should follow suit.)
    I disabled signatures.
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    As near as I can tell, one of my cables may have had a loose pin or connection inside the RJ45 connector, because after doing some cable swaps, my network sprang back to life. And it wasn't even a homemade cable, it was one of those bright yellow ones
    that some electronics come with; I'm thinking it came with the cable modem? Hey,
    **** happens I guess, I just wish it made itself more obvious to me.

    At the very least, I can forever say with certainty that CABLES MATTER!!
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


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  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    edited December 2018
    Wow, @msg, talk about timing...

    I did pretty much what you suggested, only thing is I didn't get an 8-port switch, it was
    just a hub. After some reading, I see that a switch is probably the way to go (also see why it's more expensive). The only major change other than replacing the bad cable is I only have one to the WAN port on the router, not using the LAN ports at all.

    Thanks to all for the replies, I hope it all stays together once I put everything back.
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    If anyone else wants to chime in, I might as well ask - is it worth keeping the new Netgear AC3200? Now that I believe I isolated the issue to a cable flaw, I'm thinking the AC1750 might be perfectly fine. Or is the $160 I spent a way to future-proof my Wifi?
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • verb
    verb Posts: 10,176
    You can run Speedtest on your devices to see if it makes a difference. Just to be sure, before you send it back.
    Basement: Polk SDA SRS 1.2tl's, Cary SLP-05 Pre with ultimate upgrade,McIntosh MCD301 CD/SACD player, Northstar Designs Excelsio DAC, Cambridge 851N streamer, McIntosh MC300 Amp, Silnote Morpheus Ref2, Series2 Digital Cables, Silnote Morpheus Ref2 Series2 XLR's, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Pangea Power Cables, MIT Shotgun S3 IC's, MIT Shotgun S1 Bi-Wire speaker cables
    Office: PC, EAR Acute CD Player, EAR 834L Pre, Northstar Designs Intenso DAC, Antique Sound Labs AV8 Monoblocks, Denon UDR-F10 Cassette, Acoustic Technologies Classic FR Speakers, SVS SB12 Plus sub, MIT AVt2 speaker cables, IFI Purifier2, AQ Cinnamon USB cable, Groneberg Quatro Reference IC's
    Spare Room: Dayens Ampino Integrated Amp, Tjoeb 99 tube CD player (modified Marantz CD-38), Analysis Plus Oval 9's, Zu Jumpers, AudioEngine B1 Streamer, Klipsch RB-61 v2, SVS PB1000 sub, Blue Jeans RCA IC's, Shunyata Hydra 8 Power Conditioner
    Living Room: Peachtree Nova Integrated, Cambridge CXN v2 Streamer, Rotel RCD-1072 CD player, Furman 15PFi Power Conditioner, Polk RT265 In Wall Speakers, Polk DSW Pro 660wi sub
    Garage #1: Cambridge Audio 640A Integrated Amp, Project Box-E BT Streamer, Polk Tsi200 Bookies, Douglas Speaker Cables, Shunyata Power Conditioner
    Garage #2: Cambridge Audio EVO150 Integrated Amplifier, Polk L200's, Analysis Plus Silver Oval 2 Speaker Cables, IC's TBD.
  • Willow
    Willow Posts: 10,862
    Fwiw I have my modem/router then to a 6 port splitter (pc , pool avr, garage door opener, magic jack then one cable goes to my giga wall plug ) all that gear is in the basement. From the other giga wall plug near the system goes one cable to another giga splitter ( avr, TV, Android box, br player). I think the switch and apple TV are on wifi. On the second floor I have a wifi extender.
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    The AC3200 is the better router.

    The WAN port on the router is where you plug in from the cable modem. use one of the router ports to the switch.

    Switch, I still see a lot of AV gear coming with 10/100 ports, I think the PS4 is 10/100/1000. Even though your internet is 200Mbs it is best to have a gigabit switch. It can handle more bandwidth then a 10/100.

    I make my own CAT5E/6 cables. I don't trust store ones. Cable testers are not that much anymore for a decent one.

    One thing I do monthly is cycle the power on my network.
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    I have 3 weeks to compare the 3200 to the 1750, I'm sure the 3200 is better but is it $160 better? I'll probably just return it, I think I'd be better off with a wifi extender.

    I didn't use any of this routers LAN ports. Since I moved it there's only 1 cable to the WAN, the router is fed from one of the new gigabit 8-port switches I bought. Not sure if that's the best way to do it but it seems OK.

    I also make my own Cat5e cables, it's not that hard to do and the money I saved so far
    more than paid for the tools/materials needed - Klein Tools stripper/crimper, RJ45 male connectors, bulk wire, Monoprice signal checker (cheap at 3x the price!). I just bought a 1000' spool of wire from Ama*** for $47, can't beat that with a stick. I have a few more long runs to do to get the whole house wired up, after the holidays I'll be snaking and fishing... LOL

    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    polrbehr wrote: »
    I have 3 weeks to compare the 3200 to the 1750, I'm sure the 3200 is better but is it $160 better? I'll probably just return it, I think I'd be better off with a wifi extender.

    I didn't use any of this routers LAN ports. Since I moved it there's only 1 cable to the WAN, the router is fed from one of the new gigabit 8-port switches I bought. Not sure if that's the best way to do it but it seems OK.

    I also make my own Cat5e cables, it's not that hard to do and the money I saved so far
    more than paid for the tools/materials needed - Klein Tools stripper/crimper, RJ45 male connectors, bulk wire, Monoprice signal checker (cheap at 3x the price!). I just bought a 1000' spool of wire from Ama*** for $47, can't beat that with a stick. I have a few more long runs to do to get the whole house wired up, after the holidays I'll be snaking and fishing... LOL

    If your going to spend that much, go with a mesh system. I'm telling you from experience, a wifi extender will not work nearly as well as a good mesh system, especially if you have cable runs to a cable different rooms. My modem is in my daughter's room (used to be my office!!!), which is connected to the first (primary) router, which is then connected to a switch. Then two cable runs go to the living room and the master bedroom. They then connect to another router, which extends the range (unlike a wireless extender which is going to be drain on your system). Each secondary router is then connected to another switch so that all the HT devices can be hardwired. I do still lose some speed, wireless is about 80-100 mbps when the speed at the router is about 260 (I am paying for "up to" 300), but this is still the fastest, most consistent setup I have had by far...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,477
    speaking of WIFI extender I'm thinking I need one that just plugs into an outlet. Any recommendations on those that are cheap?
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    Thanks for the tips @rooftop59. I have been looking into mesh systems, as speed
    Isn’t my issue, it’s coverage thru the house. Especially in the finished part of the garage where my Duet sits. I can get a cable in there but it would be tough at this point so WiFi is the primary means for network based music.
    Since I still have both Netgear routers for now, maybe I’ll try using both of them? Nothing to lose except a few minutes to plug them in and set them up right?
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    polrbehr wrote: »
    Thanks for the tips @rooftop59. I have been looking into mesh systems, as speed
    Isn’t my issue, it’s coverage thru the house. Especially in the finished part of the garage where my Duet sits. I can get a cable in there but it would be tough at this point so WiFi is the primary means for network based music.
    Since I still have both Netgear routers for now, maybe I’ll try using both of them? Nothing to lose except a few minutes to plug them in and set them up right?

    You can do that, you’ll just have two different zones with different login info, and even if you give both zones the same login, you will still have to switch back and forth. Been there done that, pita. Now, if you just want it for the duet, then yes that is a possible solution. But if your in the garage and you want your phone to switch to that zone you will have to manually switch at least in my experience. The whole you have to be on one Wifi network (what I am calling a zone) in the living room and a different in the bedroom drove my wife nuts so I got rid of it fwiw...
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    polrbehr wrote: »
    I have 3 weeks to compare the 3200 to the 1750, I'm sure the 3200 is better but is it $160 better? I'll probably just return it, I think I'd be better off with a wifi extender.

    I didn't use any of this routers LAN ports. Since I moved it there's only 1 cable to the WAN, the router is fed from one of the new gigabit 8-port switches I bought. Not sure if that's the best way to do it but it seems OK.

    I also make my own Cat5e cables, it's not that hard to do and the money I saved so far
    more than paid for the tools/materials needed - Klein Tools stripper/crimper, RJ45 male connectors, bulk wire, Monoprice signal checker (cheap at 3x the price!). I just bought a 1000' spool of wire from Ama*** for $47, can't beat that with a stick. I have a few more long runs to do to get the whole house wired up, after the holidays I'll be snaking and fishing... LOL

    HMMM, do you have a cable modem or cable modem/router combo?

    I have just a plain jane 3.1 modem which hits the router WAN first then routers LAN ports to switches

    One thing I noticed about my DLINK router was it was naming the 5G and 2.4G the same causing lots of dead spots. Once I manually named each 5G and 2.4G it was all fine
    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music
  • polrbehr
    polrbehr Posts: 2,825
    @mrloren I have a separate modem from Optimum (Arris 1602?) , and the aforementioned Nighthawk AC3200 router.

    I had all 4 LAN ports on the router used, but wanted to put the router in a new (better)
    location and didn't want to have to extend all 4 ethernet cables to it, so it's now being fed directly off a new gigabit 8-port switch.

    FYI I renamed all the default settings on the router for all 6 zones (3 primary, 3 guest)
    as well as the passwords. Nothing fancy, but easy enough to recognize it's my network.
    So, are you willing to put forth a little effort or are you happy sitting in your skeptical poo pile?


    http://audiomilitia.proboards.com/
  • msg
    msg Posts: 9,308
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    speaking of WIFI extender I'm thinking I need one that just plugs into an outlet. Any recommendations on those that are cheap?
    Ivan, I'd probably start with the same brand as your main router to see what's available. I use one of the Netgear AC1900 Extenders in the BR space to provide ethernet to a TiVo mini. Works great as an "ethernet bridge".

    There's another type out there as well, something like the TP-Link Powerline series, which is supposed to somehow make use of the home's electrical wiring to transmit data.
    I disabled signatures.
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    edited December 2018
    msg wrote: »
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    speaking of WIFI extender I'm thinking I need one that just plugs into an outlet. Any recommendations on those that are cheap?
    Ivan, I'd probably start with the same brand as your main router to see what's available. I use one of the Netgear AC1900 Extenders in the BR space to provide ethernet to a TiVo mini. Works great as an "ethernet bridge".
    I have one of those, too. It works well.
  • mrloren
    mrloren Posts: 2,454
    I use to use "Power Line" in my house. In fact my bro still does. Works very good. I hard wired as much I I could when I got my NAS. My Bro's house is much larger with no problems either.
    polrbehr wrote: »
    @mrloren I have a separate modem from Optimum (Arris 1602?) , and the aforementioned Nighthawk AC3200 router.

    I had all 4 LAN ports on the router used, but wanted to put the router in a new (better)
    location and didn't want to have to extend all 4 ethernet cables to it, so it's now being fed directly off a new gigabit 8-port switch.

    FYI I renamed all the default settings on the router for all 6 zones (3 primary, 3 guest)
    as well as the passwords. Nothing fancy, but easy enough to recognize it's my network.

    Odd you can go from modem to switch bypassing the router. Router functions as a gateway separating and assigning IP address.

    Make sure you 2.4GHZ and 5GHZ are named different. A lot of devices like to try and pull from the 5GHZ but if your more than 20' away the 2.4ghz will work better.

    My family room is or was a dead spot. I configured an older Netgear router to act as an extender of sorts. Plugged in hard wired and uses it's own SSID.

    When I was a kid my parents told me to turn it down. Now I'm an adult and my kids tell me to turn it down.
    Family Room:LG QNED80 75", Onkyo RZ50 Emotiva XPA3 GEN3 Oppo BDP-93,Sony UBP-X800BM. Main: Polk LsiM 705Center: Polk LSiM 704CFront High/Rear High In-Ceiling Polk 80F/X RT Surrounds: Polk S15 Sub: HSU VTF3-MK5
    Bed Room; Marantz SR5010, BDP-S270Main: Polk Signature S20Center: Polk Signature S35Rear: Polk R15 Sub: SVS SB2000
    Working Warehouse; Yamaha A-S301, Sony DVP-NS3100ES for disc Plok TSX550T SVS PB2000 Mini tower PC with 400GB of music