Polk Monitor 70 Series 1 Tweeters Almost Silent
RandomNonsense
Posts: 19
I created the same question/thread, over in the troubleshooting forum:
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/184140/polk-monitor-70-series-1-tweeters-almost-silent#latest
I figured I'd give it a shot here as well, please see below or follow the link I guess. If this is a double post or something I suppose someone will delete this.
The TLDR would be:
1. Monitor 70 Series 1 tweeters are almost silent.
2. Replaced tweeters with RD0093-1 which match both original tweeters
3. New tweeters are just as quiet.
4. Verified all connections and other components are correct and operating normally
5. Not knowing otherwise, it sounds to me like the rest of the speakers are working fine
I'm dealing with a pair of Series 1 Monitor 70's, purchased in the early 2000's. While tinkering about I noticed by themselves they sounded a bit off. I couldn't quite place it until I hooked up an old Monitor 7. After some testing I concluded it must be the tweeters. I ordered a set of replacement tweeters, not from Polk (I know, I know yell at me later)... Anyway the new tweeters arrived and I installed them. They sounded the same, which is to say, I cannot hear the tweeters without putting a paper towel tube up to the tweeter and adjusting volume accordingly. I unhooked the 70's, removed the jumper, and ran the speaker wire to just the top binding posts for high frequency only. I have to crank my volume to about -10 to just get something resembling sound. I understand it's possible the replacement tweeters are bad but I am wondering if there could be some other problem. I am not at all adept at troubleshooting a speaker's crossover or internals. I have swapped in speakers to make sure the rest of my equipment is functioning and not causing the problem.
Are the Monitor 70 Series 1 tweeters just inherently exceptionally quiet? If not, does this sound like a problem with the speaker's crossover or other internal component/s? How should I go about troubleshooting the internals? I haven't opened them up yet because I don't really know what to look for apart from very obvious scorching or something like that. If the problem is with the internals, is it something worth trying to fix, or have serviced by someone with know how? I consider myself savvy enough but my technical knowledge in this area is lacking. I suppose with some guidance and a hell of a how to, it's something I can tackle.
I'm running a Yamaha RX-A840 which is feeding a Crown XLS 1002 which powers the two Monitor 70's. All connections have been checked and double checked. I have run both the Monitor 70's and Monitor 7's off just the Yamaha and the Crown, no matter the combo, the Monitor 70's tweeters are almost silent.
My apologies for a long post, thanks in advance.
http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/184140/polk-monitor-70-series-1-tweeters-almost-silent#latest
I figured I'd give it a shot here as well, please see below or follow the link I guess. If this is a double post or something I suppose someone will delete this.
The TLDR would be:
1. Monitor 70 Series 1 tweeters are almost silent.
2. Replaced tweeters with RD0093-1 which match both original tweeters
3. New tweeters are just as quiet.
4. Verified all connections and other components are correct and operating normally
5. Not knowing otherwise, it sounds to me like the rest of the speakers are working fine
I'm dealing with a pair of Series 1 Monitor 70's, purchased in the early 2000's. While tinkering about I noticed by themselves they sounded a bit off. I couldn't quite place it until I hooked up an old Monitor 7. After some testing I concluded it must be the tweeters. I ordered a set of replacement tweeters, not from Polk (I know, I know yell at me later)... Anyway the new tweeters arrived and I installed them. They sounded the same, which is to say, I cannot hear the tweeters without putting a paper towel tube up to the tweeter and adjusting volume accordingly. I unhooked the 70's, removed the jumper, and ran the speaker wire to just the top binding posts for high frequency only. I have to crank my volume to about -10 to just get something resembling sound. I understand it's possible the replacement tweeters are bad but I am wondering if there could be some other problem. I am not at all adept at troubleshooting a speaker's crossover or internals. I have swapped in speakers to make sure the rest of my equipment is functioning and not causing the problem.
Are the Monitor 70 Series 1 tweeters just inherently exceptionally quiet? If not, does this sound like a problem with the speaker's crossover or other internal component/s? How should I go about troubleshooting the internals? I haven't opened them up yet because I don't really know what to look for apart from very obvious scorching or something like that. If the problem is with the internals, is it something worth trying to fix, or have serviced by someone with know how? I consider myself savvy enough but my technical knowledge in this area is lacking. I suppose with some guidance and a hell of a how to, it's something I can tackle.
I'm running a Yamaha RX-A840 which is feeding a Crown XLS 1002 which powers the two Monitor 70's. All connections have been checked and double checked. I have run both the Monitor 70's and Monitor 7's off just the Yamaha and the Crown, no matter the combo, the Monitor 70's tweeters are almost silent.
My apologies for a long post, thanks in advance.
Comments
By the way it's not necessary for multiple threads.
Thank you
M 70 #1
M 70 # 2
The film cap will be much bigger and one would need to get creative to attach to the board but it can be done.
Film cap would be the route I'd take.
If you have a suggestion for the soldering iron, I am open to that. I do not currently have one and its been years since I've messed about but I'm generally capable if I know exactly what to do. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Magentos-Superb-Adjustable-Temperature-Soldering/dp/B0744P55YR/ref=zg_bs_3207126011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P4GZ8GDFR0ZQ4R1AXB25 seems like it ought to work as long as I can manage the rest.
*** I read the item description: states it's for 200v mains... May want to verify it's intended input voltage before ordering.
In this instance i really can't argue the dayton.
Yea that link for you I'd be all over it
Got everything you'd need.
Zip tie cap on back.
Daytons seem to start at 250v and go up. Shouldn't be a problem
Sorry lost me. What is for 200v mains?
http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php/loudspeaker-components/crossovers-components/capacitors.html/
https://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitors-film-claritycap-csa-esa-250vdc-series.html
I've looked into this thread but I'm still not sure what specs I should be looking for this specific capacitor replacement. http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/130077/monitor-70-crossover-help-for-noobs-like-me
Cost is less of a limiting factor than knowledge and skill. I'm not looking to rebuild the crossover, maybe one day when I'm a up to snuff on the technical stuff. For now I'm just looking for what capacitors to purchase so I can try my hand at soldering them bad boys to the boards.
I do very much appreciate the input thus far. If anyone wants to chime in and give me an exact brand/model capacitor to go after, I'd greatly appreciate the info, I don't know what I don't know here, capacitors and their specifications are like a foreign language to me.
The solder iron.
In the first top header it states 60 watt 110v.
But i did see below about 200-240v
The cord in the picture is 110v for sure. Anything in the 200v+ range I'd certainly call a welder LOL.
Take a picture of the wording on the caps in question we will help to make sure you get the correct value.
Hard to get all of the info in one picture so two will have to suffice.
Many thanks to both y'all.
The four options I could find, easily are below:
https://www.partsconnexion.com/CLARITY-82488.html
http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php/loudspeaker-components/crossovers-components/capacitors/dmpc-8-2-8-2uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor.html
http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php/loudspeaker-components/crossovers-components/capacitors/pmpc-8-2-8-2uf-250v-precision-audio-capacitor.html
http://www.soniccraft.com/product_info.php/gen-sonicap-82-uf-200vdc-p-447
Of the aforementioned options I've come across, none of them are outside my price range by any means. I just need to know if any of them will work and which would work "best".
Additionally I came across another thread which mentions needing to remove a bypass which I believe is what I have circled in the picture below. Please verify if that is required and/or recommended.
Thanks in advance for further feedback.
The difference between the Daytons is tolerance one is 3% the other 1%. I personally have never used them but have heard both are pretty accurate in their respective tolerances.
Voltage won't matter to much, big size differences are 620, 400, 250, 100
If you do not intend to upgrade the whole crossover, I would just find a place that carries everything you need and order from there. Parts express, Dayton
Madisound clarity cap px
Parts connexion Mundorf would be a good option
Sonicraft sonicap
I would go ahead and change the resistor to, Dayton non inductive, parts express or Mundorf mox, madisound. Mills mrc 50, parts connexion is good but I'm not a fan of the 12 watt mills.
"No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
The black NP electrolytic's are bad does the orange drop cap need to go? Is it being used as a bypass cap? Since he is going film cap to replace the lytics does the cap in the circle need to go.
At this point I'm most interested in getting these M 70's working again. It looks like replacing the resistor, if that's what it is, wouldn't be any more difficult than the capacitor. I am learning quite a bit as I go, thanks to these forums and this thread but I am not ready to replace everything on this board... yet. I can definitely spring for and hopefully handle the capacitor and resistor replacement. If the bypass absolutely must come out, I bet I can manage. I just need to know one way or another. If I can slap in the new capacitor and resistor and the speaker will work and parts won't fail I think I'd be happier not having to remove the bypass, seeing as I don't understand what it is and what it does or doesn't do.
I also have no idea about tolerance and how/why it matters but I assume 1% is a better number than 3% in this regard.
As usual, thanks for the feedback.
Ymmv, as long as it's within 5 percent you will be OK
"No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
"No, that's silly talk. Dude, you can't possibly be this audio dumb so quit the act." - Doro
Leave them open.
Seeing as how I will be attempting to mount the new capacitors and maybe new resistors to the back of the board, what gauge wire should I use to reach the solder points if the leads are not long enough? Also, probably a silly question but will I need to take any extra precaution to insulate the exposed solder points on the back of the board from my replacement parts? Lastly, the do I need to preserve the white case on the resistors and use it with my replacement resistors or can I install the new resistors as they are or will be anyway...?