Wireless Ethernet Bridge?

I recently bought a used Marantz NA8005. I'm building a modest 2 channel system around my 703s that will be used to play flac files only. I wanted something that I could load up a thumb drive full of flac files, plug it in and play. I'm already going to declare the NA8005 as the most awesome piece of audio hardware I own. Another win for the hermit!

I have read conflicting reports on whether you can play flac files via the front usb port. I was reading owners comments all over the internet before purchasing it. Some people said they could only play mp3s but not flac from the front usb port, others seemed to have no issues. I have a USB A to B adapter for the rear USB-B port if the front didn't work. Maybe this was fixed through a firmware update, but it reads my flac files from the front port with no problems. Winning!

I had no interest in the streaming aspect of the unit. When it first arrived, I connected it to my router in the office where my router is located in order to make sure the firmware was up to date. This unit doesn't have wifi so it was connected via an ethernet cable. When it was connected to a router, I was able to use my android tablet as a remote. This is something I didn't think I'd want, but after playing around with it, I can see this as being an extremely convenient way to access the files on a thumb drive or hard drive. Seeing the file structure and such. Later on I'll probably buy a SSD drive to connect in the rear. I usually don't like things in my rear :anguished:

So I've got no LAN connection in the room where I'm going to have this set up, for the time being. So I need a way to convert the ethernet port on the Marantz to wifi.

This isn't my area of expertise. I'm not really sure I have an area of expertise, so is something like this my best choice "on the cheap":

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wavlink-N300-300Mbps-Wifi-Range-Extender-Access-Point-with-3dBi-Internal-Antenna/222783701972?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

It's ac powered, and has a LAN port. If I'm understanding this correctly, it's the cure for what ails me.

s4h02gyk3lob.jpg

My first idea was to take an ethernet cable and connect the Marantz to my laptop and share the connection, but then I'd have a cord stretched across the room, so I thought a bridge would be a better choice. (I think it's called a bridge)

I'm going to tag my computer go-to guys...
@nbrowser
@EndersShadow

Comments

  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    I have used these with success in the past. The best part was when I called to help me figure out how to set it up to do exactly what you want to do, an actual human being who spoke perfect english walked me through the process. Worked great!

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005WKIKA0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The more expensive (but FAR superior route is to purchase two of these:

    https://www.amazon.com/Google-Wifi-system-set-replacement/dp/B01MDJ0HVG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1523992933&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=google+mesh&th=1

    Each one can be plugged into one ethernet device (you will need at least two). I have three, all three are connected to ethernet cables that I ran through my attic, and then are attached to ethernet switches. This way you not only get great whole home wifi coverage, but all your HT devices can be hardwired.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    edited April 2018
    I also forgot that I bought this for my bro in law a couple years ago to use with his streaming bdp in the master bedroom which is the opposite side of the House from the router. He says it has worked well:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWRUIY4/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    You could add an Ethernet switch to this and connect all your devices that way.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Hermitism
    Hermitism Posts: 4,192
    Sorry, I had to leave right after asking a question. Had some family drama to deal with, I don't have the words. :neutral:

    Great info guys. Looks like I've got a few alternatives to chose from.
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    an actual human being who spoke perfect english walked me through the process.
    Is there a lot of computer wizardry involved in getting this to work with the home's wifi router? Or is it basically plug and play, so to speak?

  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    Hermitism wrote: »
    Sorry, I had to leave right after asking a question. Had some family drama to deal with, I don't have the words. :neutral:

    Great info guys. Looks like I've got a few alternatives to chose from.
    rooftop59 wrote: »
    an actual human being who spoke perfect english walked me through the process.
    Is there a lot of computer wizardry involved in getting this to work with the home's wifi router? Or is it basically plug and play, so to speak?

    It actually isn’t that complicated for what you want to do. You just have to choose between router and bridge, and like any router you need a computer to plug it into to get it up and running.

    There are a number of possible configurations, and that’s where I needed help. I wanted to plug it into my Ethernet cable and use it as a wireless extender to extend the range. That is more complicated than what you are doing. But the help was quick and painless.
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • Hermitism
    Hermitism Posts: 4,192
    Oh, I had one more question that I forgot to ask. Will using something like this near audio equipment create any noise in the audio signal? I bought a PS Audio Duet last week for this system, if that helps with the answer. I don't want to start a debate on noise, but is it a bad idea to have this literally within a couple of feet from an audio system?
  • Clipdat
    Clipdat Posts: 12,560
    edited April 2018
    Good question. I can't remember who it was off the top of my head, but I know at least one forum member had issues with a WiFi device adding some interference to their audio signal.
    Hermitism wrote: »
    Oh, I had one more question that I forgot to ask. Will using something like this near audio equipment create any noise in the audio signal? I bought a PS Audio Duet last week for this system, if that helps with the answer. I don't want to start a debate on noise, but is it a bad idea to have this literally within a couple of feet from an audio system?

  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 7,952
    Probably only one way to find out. Most of those options are pretty inexpensive. Give one a try and let us know!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es; Squeezebox Touch with Bolder Power Supply
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Cambridge Azur 551r; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,517
    edited April 2018
    So I'm a nut about hardwiring everything..... so I'd suggest a Powerline Adapter.

    It lets you use your electrical wiring as a cable and then you can actually hardwire the Marantz to your router, and I prefer a physical connection over wireless...... But it may not work for your situation.

    I've also had success with this device (I've got one lying around, but I'm keeping it cause it worked tooo damn well). Its similar to what you suggested.

    Asus EA-N66 Network Bridge. I by no means paid 130 for it lol, I paid I think 40 bucks for it, and it works quite well.
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
  • Hermitism
    Hermitism Posts: 4,192
    So I'm a nut about hardwiring everything..... so I'd suggest a Powerline Adapter.

    It lets you use your electrical wiring as a cable and then you can actually hardwire the Marantz to your router, and I prefer a physical connection over wireless...... But it may not work for your situation.

    I've also had success with this device (I've got one lying around, but I'm keeping it cause it worked tooo damn well). Its similar to what you suggested.

    Asus EA-N66 Network Bridge. I by no means paid 130 for it lol, I paid I think 40 bucks for it, and it works quite well.
    So just to clarify, you have a great idea, but it may not work, and you've got a great device, but I can't have it! I love you man, you're the best! :smiley:
  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,517
    Hermitism wrote: »
    So I'm a nut about hardwiring everything..... so I'd suggest a Powerline Adapter.

    It lets you use your electrical wiring as a cable and then you can actually hardwire the Marantz to your router, and I prefer a physical connection over wireless...... But it may not work for your situation.

    I've also had success with this device (I've got one lying around, but I'm keeping it cause it worked tooo damn well). Its similar to what you suggested.

    Asus EA-N66 Network Bridge. I by no means paid 130 for it lol, I paid I think 40 bucks for it, and it works quite well.
    So just to clarify, you have a great idea, but it may not work, and you've got a great device, but I can't have it! I love you man, you're the best! :smiley:

    The powerline should work, I've just never used one. I know many folks that have and love them. Depends on if you have a spare outlet by the router (not part of a surge protector), and another in the room with the Marantz. If so, it will work.

    And if you can find that network bridge on say... eBay....... I have one of those and it works quite well....

    I'd suggest the powerline first. Easiest to use. Plug and play (literally lol)
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)