What do you think is going bad?

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NuckingFuts
NuckingFuts Posts: 77
edited November 2004 in Vintage Speakers
One of my monitor7's isnt sounding right and I cant seem to pin point what is going bad.

If I crank down the bass and pump the treble and volume my tweets seem to sound ok.

If I crank down the treble and pump up the bass(or even bring up the bass some) and volume my mid and radiator sound ok.

But when I dial in the treble and bass together the speaker at high volumes sounds like its ever so slightly crackling(like a blown speaker would sound).

The first time I heard it I thought the tweet was blown but now Im not thinkin' so.

Could it be that my 100w receiver isnt delivering enough power?

Im ear thinks its the speaker though.....so what to you guys recommend I should do?

Muchas gracias!
Post edited by NuckingFuts on

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  • BlueMDPicker
    BlueMDPicker Posts: 7,569
    edited October 2004
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    Swap speaker leads (r to l, l to r) first to eliminate the receiver as the cause of the problem. If the problem moves to the other speaker, it's your receiver. If the problem stays in the same channel, remove the leads to the tweeter and see if the crackling disappears. If so, it's the tweeter. If not, reconnect the tweeter and remove the leads to the mid. If the problem persists there may be issues with the crossover. If the problem disappears, its the mid.

    If the 7's are fused, replace the fuses before looking into the crossover as an issue.
  • bolitasboy2
    bolitasboy2 Posts: 13
    edited October 2004
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    i think the problem its rubbing the voice on the magnet,thatswhy sound craking, the voice out line or check the wire polarity.good luck i hope i give u a little help,b'coz i learn it happened to me b4.
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited October 2004
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    Originally posted by NuckingFuts
    But when I dial in the treble and bass together the speaker at high volumes sounds like its ever so slightly crackling(like a blown speaker would sound).
    Certainly would do the above checks, but it's possible you are clipping your Receiver...

    What is "high volumes" to you, as in position of the volume control? 11 o'clock? 12 o'clock? more o'clock?
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • NuckingFuts
    NuckingFuts Posts: 77
    edited October 2004
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    Originally posted by Tour2ma
    What is "high volumes" to you, as in position of the volume control? 11 o'clock? 12 o'clock? more o'clock?

    Yeah, 11 o'clock is about 4.5 (10 is cranked) which is friggen blasting.
    Originally posted by BlueMDPicker If the 7's are fused, replace the fuses before looking into the crossover as an issue.

    Thats a good idea. Im not sure I have the correct fuse. Anyone know where to find the specs on this? I never did have a manual.

    If the polarity was reversed wouldnt that trash your speakers PDQ!! :eek: I sure hope they're not reversed, Ive never switched the color coded plastic nuts.

    Thanks for helpin' out guys. Tour2ma thanks again for all your responses to my posts....you take a lot of time to help others...very cool!!
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
    edited October 2004
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    If you're turning the volume past halfway, you're turning it up too far and clipping is occuring. Actually, it may be occuring way before halfway.

    Edit: need to give Bruce credit for calling the clipping situation first.....I didn't see it the first go round.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • NuckingFuts
    NuckingFuts Posts: 77
    edited October 2004
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    Im not near the clipping stage when I first hear it. I would say anything from 3-4.5 (I wont go much higher than that) Im hearing the dirty sound. The thing is, its really faint. For the most part the speaker sounds really nice for being 30 yrs old:D

    Maybe Im being to critical of a vintage speaker when comparing it to cystal clear sounds of a new set of speakers.

    In any case, the LS90's will show up on the front door next week. Im trying to figure out if I should keep the monitors as part of my set up (maybe make them my rears). Thoughts?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
    edited October 2004
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    In that case, do as Blue has suggested. You need to narrow down the problem step by step.

    LS90's....you're going to need power for those boys.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited October 2004
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    Edit: Y'all are posting too fast... ;)

    Agree, F1... not all 100 wpc receivers are created equal...

    NF,
    Thanks, but I'm just one of many here that get satisfaction from trying to help others... that plus insomnia... You've just been hitting areas where I at least think I can help.

    On the volume thing... As Jesse indicated we often think of 11 o'clock as a safe maximum, but taint necessarily so.

    Try determining where the "cracking" starts. Take a CD track that always produces it and repeat it starting with the volume at 9 o'clock and bumping up a "half hour" each successive play until you hear it. Once you do hear it, stop the test.

    What receiver are you running? If you've mentioned it before, I've forgotten.

    As for your speakers possibly not running in absolute phase... nah, not an issue. A surprising percentage of electronics are 180 degrees out, and owners never know it.

    If you want to check your rig for absolute phase, play Aerosmith's "RagDoll" or a similar tune with a strong kick drum line and watch your MW. It should push out on the leading edge of the drum's "thud". Reverse your speaker wires for comparison. Note that your 10's PR will be moving opposite the MW motion.
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
    edited October 2004
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    Originally posted by Tour2ma
    Once you do hear it, stop the test.



    Now that's a classic line! Good on ya bro......:D
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited October 2004
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    Gracias... Senior Hesse... :p

    Agree that the 90's are not necessarily a solution... Gotta beleive they are tougher to drive than the Mon 10's. Let's see...

    Spec comparison............10's.....................90's......................+/- ................
    Impedance:.................... 6 ....................... 8 ................. one for the 90's
    Number of drivers: 2 MW's/1 tweet ... 4 MW's/ 1 tweeter....... one for the 10's
    Efficiency (dB) ............... N/A .................... 90 ....................... ????

    That's all I got... I think the bottom line is don't know, so don't assume.

    BTW NF, my 10A's manual calls for a 1 amp fast blo fuse for the tweeter.

    Have you ever cleaned the fuses and the fuse holder? Oxidation there could be a contributing factor.

    To clean the fuses, pull them (you want to check their rating anyway) and take a pencil eraser and rub the fuses' metal collars. Also clean the inside of the fuse clips. Wipe off all erased surfaces with a soft cloth or paper towel to remove any eraser "shavings".

    Wouldn't hurt to take a look at the speaker terminals, too, while the eraser is handy...
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • NuckingFuts
    NuckingFuts Posts: 77
    edited October 2004
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    All good advise, thanks again!


    I'll update when I go through the prescribed steps.:)
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited November 2004
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    And?
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • hotwheelman
    hotwheelman Posts: 1,300
    edited November 2004
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    And Then???
    "Its worked so far but we're not out yet."
    "Hey big man let me hold a dollar"
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
    edited November 2004
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    And then again???
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • hotwheelman
    hotwheelman Posts: 1,300
    edited November 2004
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    And then and then and then and then.:D O.k. I'll stop. :D
    "Its worked so far but we're not out yet."
    "Hey big man let me hold a dollar"
  • scottnbnj
    scottnbnj Posts: 709
    edited November 2004
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    on how tough monitor 7's are to drive, i don't know the technical stuff with this, but, my carver 'the receiver' 130 always ran pretty consistently warm with 7c's.

    not so with lsi9's, i've looked for it and it just doesn't heat up that way with them, even though i drive them to higher spl's for longer periods of time.

    7c's start choking it at lower dial settings though sound louder than 9's at comparable settings. 9's go a good bit louder before trouble starts and the receiver starts losing its grip at higher dial settings. the trouble starts at different frequency ranges on each pair.

    anyway, as much as we hear about how tough 9's are to drive, whether it's nf's problem or not, i'm thinking y'all might be onto something here.

    )
  • Tour2ma
    Tour2ma Posts: 10,177
    edited November 2004
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    More like "on something"... :)... except for Jesse anyway. He's so straight he could be a ruler...

    NF,
    Before I forget, one thing not touched upon above is that you may have done damage to your tweeters during past "crank it to clipping" episodes that result in distortion at lower levels now...

    scott,
    Interesting observation on the Mon 7's vs. LSi 9's. I would have guessed the 9's were the tougher drive owing to their lower impedance, but....

    Tale of the tape:

    Mon 7C's
    Lower -3dB Limit 40Hz
    Upper -3dB Limit 23kHz
    Nominal Impedance 8 ohms
    Efficiency 89 dB

    LSi 9's
    Lower -3dB Limit 50Hz
    Upper -3dB Limit 26kHz
    Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
    Efficiency 88 dB
    Crossover Driver 1: LPF at 200Hz 12dB/oct,
    Driver 2: LPF at 2.4kHz, 12 dB/oct.

    Couple of observations in support of the 7's being the more demanding load:
    1. The Mon 7's dig 10 Hz deeper... more power demand here.
    2. There's one MW and a PR doing the bass' and mid's work in the 7 vs. the 9's x-overed twin MW's and ported design. The port vs. PR design is likely significant.

    Otherwise the efficiency is a toss up...

    Your Carver is a factor as well. Being a Carver, it has a fair amount of current capability (20 to 30 amperes peak to peak, I'd guess), so the 4 ohm load is not too significant a challenge. It's 130 wpc into the 7's easily becomes 180 wpc or so into the 9's. Whereas it may be voltage limited before the 7's have been fully satisfied, especially if rock is your muic of choice.
    More later,
    Tour...
    Vox Copuli
    Better to remain silent and be thought a fool, than to open your mouth and remove all doubt. - Old English Proverb

    "Death doesn't come with a Uhaul." - Dennis Gardner

    "It's easy to get lost in price vs performance vs ego vs illusion." - doro
    "There is a certain entertainment value in ripping the occaisonal (sic) buttmunch..." - TroyD
  • scottnbnj
    scottnbnj Posts: 709
    edited November 2004
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    thanks much for shedding some light on the technical side of this. from the sharply opposing characters of these two models, it doesn't surprise me that different gear and tunes are likely to produce opposite results and that different rooms and placements would amplify them.

    i don't have one music of choice but you're dead on that the 9's were intended to and did answer what the 7c's are not, but, i think as a result, by definition, are not what they uh,.. are. i think the differences are similar to tubes v. ss in alot of ways.

    back to nf, i don't know the differences between the 7's and 7c's, but, my 7c's are just so sensitive and prominent in that area they could easily shine a spotlight on something like component dampening weaknesses that other speaks might not. that might be another possibility that would make sense of what happens with wiggling the tone controls. in any case, which drivers it comes from needs to be nailed down first.

    nf, when you get a break in dealing with ups, you gotta get that noise rolling again and put your ear to the individual drivers.

    )
  • egp823
    egp823 Posts: 74
    edited November 2004
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    had the same crackling sound on my CRS. Recently changed all the drivers and sound is perfect. Could not ask for more.