Upgrade Monitor 10 XO

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I have searched the forums but cannot find the answer I am looking for. I have a pair of Monitor 10's with SL2000 tweeter. I want to upgrade to the RDO-198 tweeters. To modify the XO do I just change the caps and resistors listed in this schematic?

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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
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    That schematic says it's for the sl3000 tweeter update, not the RDO-194/8. Now I may be mistaken, but IIRC, the SL2k and 2.5k use 194 as an upgrade, and the 3k gets the 198 only.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
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    I have searched the forums but cannot find the answer I am looking for. I have a pair of Monitor 10's with SL2000 tweeter. I want to upgrade to the RDO-198 tweeters. To modify the XO do I just change the caps and resistors listed in this schematic?

    You would be changing one resistor and one inductor, no caps.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
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    FestYboy wrote: »
    That schematic says it's for the sl3000 tweeter update, not the RDO-194/8. Now I may be mistaken, but IIRC, the SL2k and 2.5k use 194 as an upgrade, and the 3k gets the 198 only.

    The SL2000 replacement is the RD0194. The SL2500 or SL3000 replacement is the RD0198.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
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    Thank you for the clarification, mental note created.
  • makaveli6103
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    FestYboy wrote: »
    That schematic says it's for the sl3000 tweeter update, not the RDO-194/8. Now I may be mistaken, but IIRC, the SL2k and 2.5k use 194 as an upgrade, and the 3k gets the 198 only.

    I saw that the RDO-194 are drop in replacements for the SL2000. But I thought I read you can upgrade to the 198 if you modify the XO.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
    edited September 2017
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    FestYboy wrote: »
    That schematic says it's for the sl3000 tweeter update, not the RDO-194/8. Now I may be mistaken, but IIRC, the SL2k and 2.5k use 194 as an upgrade, and the 3k gets the 198 only.

    I saw that the RDO-194 are drop in replacements for the SL2000. But I thought I read you can upgrade to the 198 if you modify the XO.

    Only on certain models such as the SDA 2B, SDA CRS+ and Monitor 10C.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • makaveli6103
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    F1nut wrote: »
    FestYboy wrote: »
    That schematic says it's for the sl3000 tweeter update, not the RDO-194/8. Now I may be mistaken, but IIRC, the SL2k and 2.5k use 194 as an upgrade, and the 3k gets the 198 only.

    I saw that the RDO-194 are drop in replacements for the SL2000. But I thought I read you can upgrade to the 198 if you modify the XO.

    Only on certain models such as the SDA 2B, SDA CRS+ and Monitor 10C.

    I found this on another forum for a 10B with SL2000's

    http://forum.polkaudio.com/discussion/158810/which-monitor-10s-do-i-have

    "The crossovers can be upgraded with a direct replacement of the current caps and resistors while also replacing the polyswitch with either a jumper wire or a 0.2 - 0.5 Ohm resistor. Done this way, you'd use RDO-194 direct replacement tweeters from Polk. This is the most commonly done Monitor 10B upgrade currently.

    Alternatively, you could do a "TL Mod" upgrade to the crossovers. Some think this gives superior results. This would include using an additional cap and altering the values of one or two of the resistors on each crossover. You'd also use the RDO-198 tweeters in this TL mod, which some CP members prefer over the 194s. They're both far superior to the SL-2000s that were stock in the 10Bs.

    Dave (Westmassguy) is a great resource for info on the TL mod. I know he's done it to his 10s and probably to several other pairs for others.

    You can get the 194 or 198 tweeters directly from Polk CS. Tell them you're a Forum member and you'll get a discount and free shipping.
    Flag Quote · Insightful"
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
    edited September 2017
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    Sorry, typo. That should have read 10B. However, in the schematic you posted it only shows changing a resistor and inductor, no cap.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • makaveli6103
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    F1nut wrote: »
    Sorry, typo. That should have read 10B. However, in the schematic you posted it only shows changing a resistor and inductor, no cap.

    Do you have a schematic on how to modify to use the 198? Or is it even worth it compared to the 194?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
    edited September 2017
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    The schematic you linked is for the SL3000/RD0198 mod.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • makaveli6103
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    F1nut wrote: »
    The schematic you linked is for the SL3000/RD0198 mod.

    I realized that. I found the schematic for the SL2000.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
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    That is the same schematic from your first post showing the modification required to use the SL3000/RD0198 tweeter. One resistor and one inductor, no caps.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • makaveli6103
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    F1nut wrote: »
    That is the same schematic from your first post showing the modification required to use the SL3000/RD0198 tweeter. One resistor and one inductor, no caps.

    Ok thanks. I misread your first comment. Few questions. Other than Sonicap I am having troubles finding 34uF caps. Which others would you recommend. Also am having an inductor with the specs on the schematic. Any recs?
  • motorhead43026
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    "Any Recs?" put RDO194's in it and call it a day.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.

    Imagine making politics your entire personality.
  • makaveli6103
    makaveli6103 Posts: 33
    edited September 2017
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    "Any Recs?" put RDO194's in it and call it a day.

    Yea might just be easier and no modifications to the current XO. But I still want to replace the caps and resistors. I was planning on using Sonicaps for the Hi-Pass with Mill resistors and Dayton caps for the low pass. But I can only find Daytoon 33uF caps and not 34uF. Will using the 33uF make much of a difference?
  • motorhead43026
    motorhead43026 Posts: 3,892
    edited September 2017
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    I would use the 34uf Sonicaps (in fact I did in mine) but A 33uf would work.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.

    Imagine making politics your entire personality.
  • makaveli6103
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    I would use the 34uf Sonicaps (in fact I did in mine) but A 33uf would work.

    Is it worth 5x the price?
  • motorhead43026
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    Can't say , as I have never used anything but Sonicaps.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.

    Imagine making politics your entire personality.
  • makaveli6103
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    Can't say , as I have never used anything but Sonicaps.

    Ok last question. Does 5w vs 10w resistors matter and which voltage of caps should I get?
  • FestYboy
    FestYboy Posts: 3,861
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    Wattage matters. Almost as important as the resistance value.
  • motorhead43026
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    10w on the resistors and 200v on the caps.
    2 channel: Anthem 225 Integrated amp; Parasound Ztuner; TechnicsTT SL1350; Vincent PHO-8 phono pre; Marantz CD6005 spinner; Polk SDA2BTL's; LAT International speaker cables, ZU Mission IC's and power cables all into a PS Audio Dectet Power center.

    Other; M10 series II, M7C's, Hafler XL600 amp, RB-980BX, Parasound HCA-1500 amp , P5 preamp, all in storage. All vintage Polk have had crossover rebuilds and tweeter upgrades.

    The best way to predict the future is to invent it.

    It is imperative that we recognize that an opinion is not a fact.

    Imagine making politics your entire personality.
  • makaveli6103
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    10w on the resistors and 200v on the caps.

    Ok I saw others use 10w also but the schematics say 5w
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 24,553
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    10w on the resistors and 200v on the caps.

    Ok I saw others use 10w also but the schematics say 5w

    Mundorf come in 10 watt and Mills are 12. Cheap insurance to get higher wattage. Larger than 200v caps get huge fast.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
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    F1nut wrote: »
    That is the same schematic from your first post showing the modification required to use the SL3000/RD0198 tweeter. One resistor and one inductor, no caps.

    Ok thanks. I misread your first comment. Few questions. Other than Sonicap I am having troubles finding 34uF caps. Which others would you recommend. Also am having an inductor with the specs on the schematic. Any recs?

    Sonicap is the only one that makes a 34uF, but you can always use two 17uF caps in parallel.

    You'll likely have to order the inductors, Parts Express sells Jenzten and should be able to do that for tou.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • VSAT88
    VSAT88 Posts: 1,227
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    You are going for one sick set of 10's. Post images, love images.
  • makaveli6103
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    Any idea where I would buy risers for another level to place the new caps?
  • makaveli6103
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    VSAT88 wrote: »
    You are going for one sick set of 10's. Post images, love images.

    I will post images when done
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,787
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    Any idea where I would buy risers for another level to place the new caps?

    Mouser, Digi-Key, etc.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk