End Cap Replacement for SDA1C?

I have a pair of SDA1Cs that I bought on ebay years ago. The guy I bought them from had no idea how to pack these and they came damaged as you might expect, (lesson on shipping SDAs learned). The end caps are dented in pretty good on all corners and some veneer is missing, water stains as well. I have seen some great pics here on the forum of upgraded caps with some unique woods. Does anyone know if there is a forum member or another source that makes and sells replacements?

Comments

  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,249
    edited November 2016
    Any competent cabinetmaker would be able to make replacements. The originals are veneer over MDF and that is a better choice than solid woid.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Thanks, I will look for. Local furniture repair drop that des veneer. Any Advice on how to get these off without damaging them? Mine do not have any bolts visible on the inside, so I assume they re glued. I have also read about staples being involved. not sure if mine have them
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,249
    Yours are glued and stapled. To remove, start at the back with a thin pry bar like this....3hxaemwc6xur.jpg
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • gwg_97gwg_97 Posts: 331
    Have you considered making them yourself? All you need is 1" mdf, raw veneer, a craigslist or HF router and flush trim bit, glue, varnish, and time. I made these and would be happy to help you through the the process. ltb1bgc6ob5k.jpeg
    
    

    System 1:
    Nakamichi PA-7
    Kenwood Basic C2
    Polk SDA 1C modded
    HiFiMe DIY DAC
    Ipad/Tidal

    System 2:
    Dynaco ST-70
    Polk Monitor 5B modded
    Kenwood Basic C2
    Airport Express/Ipad/Tidal

    Home Theater:
    Carver A-760x
    Outlaw Audio M200
    Kenwood Basic M2A x 2
    Yamaha RXV 665
    Polk SDA SRS 3.1TL
    Polk Monitor 5B
    DIY Polk Center Channel Speaker
    HSU VTF-3 MK4

  • Those look great!! Nice work
    Yamaha RXA1030, Yamaha CD, Bluesound node 2i, Tidal
    Polk SDA2btl highly modded
    Polk SDA 1C
    Polk CS350 LS x2
    Polk m5jr
    Kimber 8TC
    Sony 55" Bravia
    Wish list SVS sub

  • 250GTLusso250GTLusso Registered User Posts: 162
    Wow! Those tops are beautiful. I am the original owner of a pair of SDA 1C's and those look nicer than new!
    HT
    Adcom GFP-565 Pre-amp, Adcom GFA-565 Mono Block Amps (Front), Adcom GFA-585 Amp (Side), Adcom GFA-555 Amp (Rear), Adcom ACE-515, Pioneer CLD-3070 Laserdisc, Sony CDP-605esD, Sony BluRay BDP BX59, Samsung 50" Plasma, Polk Audio SDA SRS 1.2TL Front (Walnut), Polk Audio SDA SRS Side (Walnut), Polk Audio SDA SRS Rear (Walnut).
    2 Channel (Living Room)
    Adcom GFP-565 Pre-amp (w/Big Sky Audio Upgrades), Adcom GFA-565 Mono Block Amps (w/Big Sky Audio Upgrades), Adcom ACE-515, Sony CDP-705esD, Magnum Dynalab FT-101A Etude, Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL (Walnut), Polk Audio SDA SRS 2 (Walnut), STAX SR34 Electret Earspeaker System.
    2 Channel (Office)
    Adcom GFP-555 Pre-amp, Adcom GFA-555 Amp, Sony CDP-605esD, Adcom GFT-555 Tuner, Polk Audio SDA 1C (Walnut).
    2 Channel (Garage)
    Hafler DH-110 Pre-amp, Hafler DH-220 Amp, Sony CDP-505esD, Hafler DH-330 Tuner, Polk Audio SDA 2B (Walnut).
  • ConradiclesConradicles Posts: 5,775
    I wish somebody on the forum would start making and selling SDA end caps. I would buy a pair.
  • nikoniknikonik Posts: 118
    I just got a set of 1c speakers today and 1 has slight water damage on top. I want to fix them too. It will be fun but finding time is gonna be harder.
  • My new wood shop will be finished sometime in January and I've considered doing them, I'm just trying to nail down a price. The MDF/Veneer would save in materials but it's a two step process so labor goes up. Exotic woods get expensive fast.
    If I did them they would have the t nuts installed and ready to bolt on.
  • h335e2wcp77p.jpg
    Here is the set I just did for my 2.3tl's
  • Looks great!
    SDA SRS 1.2TL's w/ RD0198-1's, Sonicap, Mills
    AI-1 Dreadnought
    SDA 1C's w/Clarity Cap ESA; PA, Mills, RD0194-1's
    SDA 1C's stock
    SDA 2B TL's w/RD0198-1's
    SDA 2's (side by side tweeters) stock
    Yaqin MC-30L integrated tube amp
    Yaqin MS-20L integrated tube amp
  • la2vegasla2vegas Posts: 3,253
    Boy o boy, those look sharp mopar. Are those caps solid or are they MDF?
    2.3TL, 3.1TL, SRS 2, SDA 2B, SDA II,SDA 1C, 7B, 7C, 7 series 2, 10B, 5JR+, 5JR, 5A, 4.5, 4, RTA 11TL, RTA 8TL, RTA 8T, LSI9 Ebony, LSI7 EBONY, LSI7 CHERRY, LSIC, RTI A7, RTI A3, CSI A4, CSI A6, F/XI A4, RTI4. That's all for now.
  • They are Cherry veneer over a birch plywood base. I don't care for MDF because it does not hold screws as well as something like solid wood or plywood.

    It wouldn't matter that much, but on the base of a 200lb speaker I just don't trust MDF, the original partical board Polk used was bad enough. Call me paranoid..
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,249
    It's been my impression that the end caps on the later models were veneer over MDF. Regardless, they work perfectly, so yeah, you're paranoid.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • My reasoning can be explained by looking at these pictures. The guy I bought them from had spikes on them and tried to move them and they basically ripped out.
    I know people call sheet goods by different names but this is partical board from where I come.33kfwute5p68.jpg
  • All 4 were torn out6zypm12nzdb8.jpg
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,249
    Yeah, that is definitely particle board.

    Still, what happened to yours is extremely rare. In fact, I've never seen/heard about that happening before.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • Ha well if you would have met this moron you could understand how it happen! I have seen people that could crash a train with a rubber mallet.

    Anyway, now that you have chimed back in, do you think doing these out of MDF and veneer would be ok? I know you have a lot of wood working knowledge. MDF is smooth and easy to work with it and is inexpensive here.

    I just wouldn't want to do them for people and then them having any issue down the road. My other thought was to epoxy the nuts in the wood.
  • F1nutF1nut Posts: 41,249
    I'm not sure. Like I said, I always thought they were MDF, but seeing your pics says otherwise, so maybe MDF isn't the right choice.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


  • ptrooperptrooper Posts: 250
    I went solid timber on both my polk upgrades/rebuilds,they were done with Australian Hardwoods ,The SDA SRS were done in "Jarrah" tops and side trims .I used "Marri" for the 2.3's end caps and people who have seen them really comment how they really look like quality character furniture pieces now . I know they might split or warp but i'll take the chance , if so i'll just replace them again.
    I have also seen in pictures on this site of black end caps and side strips on SDA SRS 1.2's ! loved the Finnish ........ Maybe i'll do this on the next SDA SRS rebuild! or maybe go aluminium !
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