got my gear comin!

2+2
2+2 Posts: 546
edited August 2004 in Speakers
Well, I've got the following coming to me:

1. Polk LSi15, LSic, LSiFX speakers which are 4 Ohm and sound great. No sub yet but LSi 15 are full range.
2. HK 230 to use as pre/pro.
3. Rotel 1075 5-channel 120wpc amp...will buy in next few days unless conviced otherwise.

I am so exited!! I have several options for hook up:

1. Run each Polk with a channel from the Rotel.
2. "Bi-amp" the LSi15 with the HK driving the highs
3. "Bi-amp" the LSi15 with the HK driving the lows
4. "Bi-amp" the LSi15 with Rotel driving the highs and the lows and drive the surrounds with the HK.

I am leaning toward option #4 as I mostly do music listening but what do you think?

Hey, where do you guys get "good quality" cables that dont cost an arm and a leg?
System 1: Martin Logan Vantage, Rotel RC 1070, B&K Reference 200.2, Music Hall DAC 15.2, Yamaha 2300

System 2: LSi15 w/db840, Marantz SR8400, Rotel 1080, RM6800 (C&S), Sony X2020ES

System 3: LSi7, Yamaha SW215, Music Hall Maven, Music Hall MMF CD25 w/627opamps

System 4: RTi100, Harman Kardon AVR 230, Panasonic DVD
Post edited by 2+2 on
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Comments

  • hoosier21
    hoosier21 Posts: 4,420
    edited August 2004
    I like option 4 also.

    Many companies out there, try http://www.signalcable.com/ they give a small discount for Polk forum members.
    Dodd - Battery Preamp
    Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
    Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
    ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
    DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
    Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
    Outlaw ICBM - crossover
    Beringher BFD - sub eq

    Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!

    "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."
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  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited August 2004
    Congrats. Try http://bluejeanscable.com/
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
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  • PolkWannabie
    PolkWannabie Posts: 2,763
    edited August 2004
    1. Run each Polk with a channel from the Rotel.
    2. "Bi-amp" the LSi15 with the HK driving the highs
    3. "Bi-amp" the LSi15 with the HK driving the lows
    4. "Bi-amp" the LSi15 with Rotel driving the highs and the lows and drive the surrounds with the HK.

    I wouldn't even consider doing #3.

    Of the other choices I would favor 4, 1 and lastly 2.
    Rick
    HT+ Sunfire TG IV, Dual CG Sig II's, CinePro 1K2, Oppo 981, Audio Technica PL120, Polk SRT's & F/X1000's, Samsung 71" DLP
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  • 2+2
    2+2 Posts: 546
    edited August 2004
    Thanks polks!! #4 is the winner!
    I will take a look at those cable vendors...hopefully, they wont rape me....

    Quick question...when I bi-amp, the full spectrum of frequency is provided to the biamped speaker. For instance, the woofers in LSi15 are still provided with higher frequency signal and the tweeter/mids are provided with lower frequency signal. (Assume I am using simple Y-splitters.).

    Is providing the full frequency harmful to my speakers?
    System 1: Martin Logan Vantage, Rotel RC 1070, B&K Reference 200.2, Music Hall DAC 15.2, Yamaha 2300

    System 2: LSi15 w/db840, Marantz SR8400, Rotel 1080, RM6800 (C&S), Sony X2020ES

    System 3: LSi7, Yamaha SW215, Music Hall Maven, Music Hall MMF CD25 w/627opamps

    System 4: RTi100, Harman Kardon AVR 230, Panasonic DVD
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  • hoosier21
    hoosier21 Posts: 4,420
    edited August 2004
    Originally posted by 2+2
    Is providing the full frequency harmful to my speakers?

    No

    I mean if it was, would anyone do it?

    Good luck
    Dodd - Battery Preamp
    Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
    Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
    ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
    DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
    Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
    Outlaw ICBM - crossover
    Beringher BFD - sub eq

    Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!

    "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."
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  • 2+2
    2+2 Posts: 546
    edited August 2004
    I figured I would double check....
    Those wire sites dont seem to show any splitters.. Dont I need splitters to split each of the front signals from the AVR to feed into the amps for bi-amping?
    Sorry for the stupid questions but never done this before....
    System 1: Martin Logan Vantage, Rotel RC 1070, B&K Reference 200.2, Music Hall DAC 15.2, Yamaha 2300

    System 2: LSi15 w/db840, Marantz SR8400, Rotel 1080, RM6800 (C&S), Sony X2020ES

    System 3: LSi7, Yamaha SW215, Music Hall Maven, Music Hall MMF CD25 w/627opamps

    System 4: RTi100, Harman Kardon AVR 230, Panasonic DVD
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  • hoosier21
    hoosier21 Posts: 4,420
    edited August 2004
    If you are doing option 4, yes you will need Y splitters.
    Dodd - Battery Preamp
    Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
    Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
    ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
    DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
    Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
    Outlaw ICBM - crossover
    Beringher BFD - sub eq

    Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!

    "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."
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  • 2+2
    2+2 Posts: 546
    edited August 2004
    thanks!
    System 1: Martin Logan Vantage, Rotel RC 1070, B&K Reference 200.2, Music Hall DAC 15.2, Yamaha 2300

    System 2: LSi15 w/db840, Marantz SR8400, Rotel 1080, RM6800 (C&S), Sony X2020ES

    System 3: LSi7, Yamaha SW215, Music Hall Maven, Music Hall MMF CD25 w/627opamps

    System 4: RTi100, Harman Kardon AVR 230, Panasonic DVD
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  • PolkWannabie
    PolkWannabie Posts: 2,763
    edited August 2004
    You should be able to get Y-split from either of these places ...

    There are ways around sending the full range signal to each amplifier/speaker but I wouldn't get concerned about it for now.
    Rick
    HT+ Sunfire TG IV, Dual CG Sig II's, CinePro 1K2, Oppo 981, Audio Technica PL120, Polk SRT's & F/X1000's, Samsung 71" DLP
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  • venomclan
    venomclan Posts: 2,467
    edited August 2004
    Hi 2+2,
    Congrats on your purchase. I would recommend a straight hookup of the Rotel to each speaker-Option 1. The reason is that biamping without an outboard crossover is usually negligable. I tried it with my onkyo avr and an H/K amp. In the end it sounded better with just the amp. Biwiring will be better in your circumstance.

    Try it both ways and see what you think. The second reason I favor 1 is that even if your avr and amp have very close watt ratings, your Rotel will easily have twice the real power.

    A recent test of 3 popular 7 channel JVC, Sony and Yamaha avr's rated between 100-130 watts/channel, showed these avr's clipping at 60 watts with only 5 channels driven. Amps however are usually rated at all channels driven with full power. Even though speakers are rated at 4 or 8 ohms, they can dip well below that at certain times. My 8 ohm B&W's drop to 5 sometimes. This dropping will really strain an AVR.

    I think that the Rotel is an excellent choice. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
    Regards,
    Jeremy
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  • Pauly
    Pauly Posts: 4,519
    edited August 2004
    Signal Cable is good quality cable and not gettin raped at the same time :)

    Good Luck!
    Life without music would♭
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  • jefft1314
    jefft1314 Posts: 169
    edited August 2004
    While you make a good point in general venom, it just so happens that HK rates their recievers with all channels being driven across the full frequency range. They are, as far as I know, the only mass market reciever manufacturer to rate their receivers as such. Most midlevel receivers (read: 300 and up) are giving you ratins with two channels being driven across the frequency range.
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  • 2+2
    2+2 Posts: 546
    edited August 2004
    Thanks for the comments. I will have to try various options in due course but #4 appeals to me since vast majority of my spkeakers will be used for music listening through the LSi15s and people keep on telling me how power hungry these things are. The way I figure it is that the rear channels will only be at very low volumes in surround sound so the AVR should be able to handle it. The center speaker will be driven by the Rotel with the mains. By biamping the mains, I dont think it is the same as providing each speaker with 400w (at 4 ohm) but certainly better than 220w if not biamed. Later, if I end up using the system more and more for movies that the AVR becomes taxed, I may have to add another stereo amp to drive the rears.
    :D

    I have not bought interconnects yet between the AVR and the Rotel which I think will be critical to get good quality, so I will investigate the signal guys. I did however, already order 10 and 12 gauge speaker cables and Optical cables made by AR (Master series). I also got some RCA interconnects for non-critical VCR and tape deck made by AR (Pro2 series). AR is on sale at www.ac4l.com at pretty significant discount. With some other stuff, still ended up spending $357 on them w/shipping.

    Thanks guys.
    System 1: Martin Logan Vantage, Rotel RC 1070, B&K Reference 200.2, Music Hall DAC 15.2, Yamaha 2300

    System 2: LSi15 w/db840, Marantz SR8400, Rotel 1080, RM6800 (C&S), Sony X2020ES

    System 3: LSi7, Yamaha SW215, Music Hall Maven, Music Hall MMF CD25 w/627opamps

    System 4: RTi100, Harman Kardon AVR 230, Panasonic DVD
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