Anyone reseeding their lawn ?

Being down here in the Southeast, my lawn takes a beating. I've been told reseeding will bring it back to life with a thick green lush appearance. Decided to aerate in the next week, throw out the lime, fertilize with a 5-0-20 fertilizer. Also decided to go with Lesco seed from John Deere since it has a very very low chance of weed seed in it. Anyone else reseed, any tips?
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  • Now is the perfect time in NC. Sounds like you have the right plan.
  • Lesco products are the best.... I use them religiously and have the best lawn in the neighborhood. I start my fall program tomorrow. This summer was very mild for us in the NE and the lawn did not suffer from any heat related issues.

    What type of lawn do you have?

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  • nooshinjohnnooshinjohn Posts: 21,443
    I like the idea, but re-seeding has some risk of fescue grass.(I think that is the right name)

    I reseeded my yard in Indiana and in a matter of weeks, I had several dozen circular patches of dense fescue that had to be dug out by shovel. I fought this problem for two years afterward.
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  • polk500polk500 Posts: 1,181
    I think reseeding is the way to go, I've been doing it every two years(sometimes every year depending on winter kill) using Scotts helps keep the weeds a bay as well as
    we aren't allow to use any weed killer products in my neighborhood.

    Along with a fertilizing program and the lawn looks great cost me about $200 a year.

    Cheers
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  • No reseeding. No watering. No nothing.
    On my street I'm "That Guy"
    We have been in a serious drought for the last five years so four years ago I stopped watering my lawns. All four of them. The have now reverted back to what Southern California was before man came. A desert.
    I own the last two houses on my block. They are next door to each other and everything else on the street is an apartment.
    Last entire year I got 6.18 inces of rain and this year is even dryer.
  • MacLeodMacLeod Posts: 14,365
    I had to re-seed most of my front yard back in June. I along with several neighbors used some Weed and Feed and it killed half our lawns for some reason. No idea what we did wrong but oh well. I tried fescue and it wouldnt grow. Got some centipede grass and dug up about ¼ to ½ inch of dirt and laid them out with one of those hand held crank spreaders then covered it back up and then watered it every night when I got home from work. Within a couple weeks it really took off and is spreading around my yard pretty nice now. The main reason I wanted it was because it spreads like wild fire and a lot of my yard was nothing but weeds and it has not disappointed. Its even spreading into my back yard where I have a privacy fence! It grows really fast so I cant go 2 weeks between mowing anymore but it is nice and green and full. Highly recommended for use southeastern boys (Im in Chattanooga, TN).
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  • I have fescue and irrigation... Had a few weeds this year but nothing serious. I've been using Lesco products since it was layed 3 years ago and I have to cut app every 5 days...I cut it next to highest setting on my mower and it helps it choke out the weeds but I use pre-emergent in the spring then fertilizer then weed and feed all before memorial day then nothing in the summer until now... then more weed and feed, and then winter fertilizer after Halloween. PH is at 6.8... PH should be measured in spring and fall,and only use lime when you your PH test calls for it.
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  • SherardpSherardp Posts: 8,051
    Like you Mikey I also have the tall fescue and irrigation. I had a soil test done and had a ph of 6.5. I will still throw lime, as I'm told it won't hurt to do so with this red clay dirt we have down here.
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  • tonybtonyb Posts: 31,598
    Every area is different. Different grasses....dirt...climate. Some basics remain the same though. Aeration is essential for well established lawns, helps the roots spread and grow and makes nice little holes for re-seeding. Don't water unless you can water deeply. Just pissin' water on it only promotes diseases. If it browns, let it, it will come back....unless your in an extreme drought or live in Arizona. Don't cut too short when it's hot out, or lack of rain.

    Some areas get a break in late winter, maybe a few days or weeks when it unseasonably climbs into the 40's or 50's. Throw some seed out then. You can thank me later for that tip.

    Italians have other uses for lime.

    There are many products available for your given area, some work decent enough, some not so much. I find if you stick to the basics, pull a weed by the roots when their young, your dependency on store bought products goes way down.

    Unfortunately most of us live in neighborhoods. I have a guy next to me and one across the street who never weed, pick up dog crap, and the prevailing winds push those nice weed seeds you know where....pisses me off too. Is it too much to ask for people to spend 20 bucks on a bag of weed and feed ? In the middle of summer, when those dandelion flowers start to die off and the seeds start spreading in the wind, it's like snow coming down in my yard. Yeah, I hate weeds.
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  • thsmiththsmith Posts: 6,092
    edited September 2014

    I over seeded the first year after having new sod put down. SOunds like you are on the right track. We have a place here called the grass pad and they have idiot proof programs and it works. One tip they provided on Aerating is to over lap and once you have completed the lawn is go back over it at a different angle, if you go North to South then also go East to West. According to the Grass PAd golf course Aeraters have the tines about an inch apart where as rentals are about 4-6 inches a part.
    I did a 50% overlap and also went the other direction.
    This is a pic about 4 weeks after over seeding last year. Looks even better this year and will not over seed or Aerate this year.

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  • WillowWillow Posts: 9,681
    Thats some nice grass Thsmith. Ours was so bad last year we put tons of clover down. Up close looks not so good but from the street looks like our lawn is green. This fall is weed and feed plus over seed. Our front lawn is shared with neighbours who are renters. They never care for their lawn or even rarely cut it. So we got tons of weeds, clover helped kill a bunch and add nutrients to the soil. We might also have grubs oh and to top it off we are on clay. Builders put down the minimum of dirt before sod. We've been in our place for almost 8 years now and the water shutoff is now poking up almost an inch and a half.
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  • thsmiththsmith Posts: 6,092
    The OP will need to lower his blade before overseeding. I do not know what kind of grass you have but for min I took it from 3.5 inches to 2.5 inches.

    Be prepared to water more than normal for 3 weeks, at that point the new grass should be about 3 inches, at least that is what mine did.

    Here is what I overseeded with.
    http://grasspad.com/machomix.html
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  • For me here in HOT Arizona.
    I de-thatch every re-seed/over-seed.
    and rent a tiller every 3 years.
    That seems best for me BUT I am a different climate and soul then you. Also by far, the BEST pre-emergent weed killer is "amaze" I had tried everything for weeds and is the best. A true 3-6 month weed free lawn. It is granules, just throw and a little water done deal.

    Hope this helps.

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  • JstasJstas Posts: 13,815
    My lawn is already pretty healthy but most of it is zoysia grass.

    What I've been doing though is over-seeding so that I get a mix. That way, the zoysia grass stays green unless the drought is really bad but in the fall when the zoysia grass turns brown, I still have green stuff popping up as the other grasses flourish and aren't choked out by the zoysia grass.

    Didn't work so hot last year 'cause of the high heat and low rainfall but I can see this year that I don't have any dead spots so I'm hoping the over-seeding will take.

    As far as spreading it, I just use a Scott's drop spreader and Scott's Sun and Shade mix. I have large trees everywhere and that's what works best.

    Aerating though, unless your lawn is thin and your soil is compacted and hard, it doesn't help that much. Well, it does but a healthy lawn doesn't need aeration or dethatching. They do damage to healthy root systems and can make problems more than help things in a healthy lawn.
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  • SherardpSherardp Posts: 8,051
    Ok guys so mowed the lawn really short yesterday. Aerated twice as I've read online. Pulled some nice plugs out, which left the lawn looking like dog **** with all the red clay plugs. Reseeded with Lesco fescue select seed and I set the irrigation to water for 10 mins a zone daily. Hoping to get some rain in between to help. We shall see what happens.

    I needed to reseed due to having some grubs come out of nowhere and destroy patches of my lawn. I had to purchase two bags of dylox from Deere to rid of them. As soon as I put the stuff down the patches began to fill in. I'm stoked to see what reseeding does to my lawn .

    Thsmith job well done bro, your lawn looks awesome. Exactly what I'm shooting for with my very own. Any thoughts on lime? Fertilizer?
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  • JstasJstas Posts: 13,815
    Grubs don't come out of no where. Something is using your yard as a bathroom.
    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • SherardpSherardp Posts: 8,051
    Jstas wrote: »
    Grubs don't come out of no where. Something is using your yard as a bathroom.

    That sounds about right bro. I'm on a corner lot so who knows pets are pooping on it. Not sure where they came from, just seems like they worked extremely fast. In one week I had brown patches. Pulled back some of the fescue and spotted them.

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  • thsmiththsmith Posts: 6,092
    edited September 2014
    I use this idiot proof program at http://grasspad.com/idiotproofprogram.html

    I have not used lime. Soil in KS is pretty much like Dallas, clay. My neighbor told me when we moved in he puts down a lot of fertilizer since the soil has nothing in it. He had the best looking lawn in the neighborhood until this year.

    I also use Bayers lawn insect control, the granules. Sold at HD or Lowes. I put it down in the Spring and again in the summer.

    In the summer before it gets in the 90s maybe early July I do put down Scott's Max green for the iron. Otherwise I stick to their program.

    I use their Grass Pad Long Lasting Grub Control, in mid-June to early-July.

    I sharpen my lawn mower blade every 5 weeks, that is about 10 mowings. Surprising how quickly the blade gets dull with just grass. Makes a huge difference.

    As you can tell I am not afraid to use chemicals on my lawn.

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  • SherardpSherardp Posts: 8,051
    Man I'm striving hard for that.
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  • SherardpSherardp Posts: 8,051
    Whoo hoo! Seeds are germinating since overseeding on Monday ,so it's been a week. Excited to see how thick it gets once it all becomes established. So far , so good.
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  • thsmiththsmith Posts: 6,092
    The local shop I use (Grass Pad) has you fertilize when you overseed and again 4 weeks later. THat was quick to have already germinated.

    Congrats !
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  • SherardpSherardp Posts: 8,051
    I can put more fertilizer down if you suggest it. Also going to try Tonyb's little tip by overseeding again in winter.
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  • tonybtonyb Posts: 31,598
    Obviously when you re-seed, you need moisture. Rain....melting snow. For a Chicago climate, whenever you get above the freezing mark and snow starts melting, go throw out some seed. Even if it freezes again later and snows more, the seed will just stay dormant for that period of time. The seed will have a head start on the germination process once spring arrives.

    You guys in the south, just make sure you re-seed when a period of rain comes in or right before your wetter seasons. Makes no sense to seed in a dry spell unless you plan on watering like crazy.

    Throw your insecticides down very early spring before those little boogers start multiplying. My area it's all about grubs/ringworms/ticks. Backing up to woods doesn't help the cause either so I normally do it at least twice a year.
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  • Actually, depending where in the SE you are. If your leaves are turned (mountains) then go ahead. If not, wait. I am near Charlotte and we wait until November-December, but could even do January. Of course aerate first, you can do that whenever, but just before is best. My yard, I strategically planted trees so as to provide shade so the lawn isn't brown in dry seasons, but also so I don't have to water anything unless new. We go with Kentucky Bluegrass, forget the brand, yellow bag, then weed n feed in spring. That's it. But, I have only seeded twice in 14 years. And weed n feed more often, say every third year. Weed n feed depends on how many dandelions your neighbors have, really.
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  • SherardpSherardp Posts: 8,051
    Actually, depending where in the SE you are. If your leaves are turned (mountains) then go ahead. If not, wait. I am near Charlotte and we wait until November-December, but could even do January. /quote]


    Give me a shout sometimes bro. I'm near you on Lake Wylie.
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