Powering with non-HT amps..like Pro PA/DJ Amps?

villian wrote: »

So...

You used MDF instead of high ply count Baltic Birch plywood. Obvious SQL mistake number one.

Mistake number two. You used ROUND ports?

Watts are watts. Can you tell the difference in the glow of your lamps at home from when your getting pure solar power, nuclear, gas or coal power? You can put down pro amps all you want, but a good ones put out just as good as an "audiophile" approved amp. Period.

If watts are watts then please feed 100 watts of DC to your speakers and send us the video.

Haha, this IS fun! BTW, I am talking AC watts. What country has dc grid?

halo71 wrote: »

lol....this thread is awesome with its clueless "knowledge" base and all. Looks like we might have another DJ chiming in! I mean...comparing a light bulb to an amplifier....simply brilliant. And where has anyone in this thread "put down pro amps"? Did I miss something?

Amen...and actually I kinda put them down. But again, that's just my opinion and obviously others differ...and so what, who cares. You like pro amps...knock your panties off.

LukeCage wrote: »

Oh, yes sir, I completely agree with you. Tube amps are a beast of their own. Big difference indeed, I completely agree. However I very much dislike them, and their colored(warm) sound.

That's an uninformed opinion. I've heard tube amps that sound more SS than actual SS amps.

nbrowser wrote: »

DSkip, I've been trolled too lately...mebbe we should form an anti-troll taskforce...

Oh no..no ..no. You don't get to wear that badge and be on the task force until you take back the biggest troll of them all...Bieber.

I'm going to sum up this whole thread....

If cheap bang for your buck watts is the priority....pro amps are your huckleberry.

If cheap bang for your buck sound quality is the priority....B&k-Parasound amps are your ticket.

Well said Luke.

Look, if pro amps are all you can afford....roll with it and we'd be happy for ya. Criticizing those who seek out better audio....or have deeper wallets, doesn't fly around here. The "giant killer" terminology is way over used in audio forums to begin with and usually used by those with no experience in better audio.

The OP asked a question, with a pre-determined answer in mind. We gave him answers both for and against, but he only wants to hear one side of the coin to validate his personal choice....end of story.

LukeCage wrote: »

Agreed. As I stated in another post I had a Mcintosh MC2250, which aint cheap to buy, and aint cheap to get repaired. The heat that thing produced was incredible, and I didn't care for the colored sound, which I didn't notice until I got the QSC. I'm not for buying used audio gear, as I have been burned quite a few times on CL,and Epay. A lot of people just stick their amps in an entertainment center and don't care about proper ventilation which amps and receivers need. So that is my main concern when buying used amps/receivers. I plan on buying an Emotiva XPR-2 after I pay off my new RtiA9's. Sorry I got a little carried away defending pro amps, when all I should have stated is that they aren't a bad fix until you can afford what you want.

True high fidelity was the original pursuit of this hobby and that was accuracy in reproducing the original recording. If an amp, speaker, receiver is capable of accurately doing that, it shouldn't matter what brand, type or cost and if it does so and an individual does not like it, it then becomes a matter of personal preferences or prejudices. Luke's experience with the vaunted Macintosh brand was that the sound was colored in his opinion. But that was the mighty Macintosh, so he must be wrong, right? I mean it can't be possible that a pro amp could sound better, right?

When I look at specs like this taken from an old Crest 3500/3501 data sheet:

8 ohm Stereo
Power output: 225 wpc
1khz power output .1% THD clipping point: 250 wpc
Total Harmonic Distortion:
from 250 milliwatts to rated output: less than .06%
less than .03% @ 250 wpc - 20khz
less than .01% @ 250 wpc - 10hkz
less than .005% @ 250 wpc - 20hz to 1khz
intermodulation distortion: less than .015%
Frequency response:
0db 20hz to 10khz
- .2db 10hz to 20khz
- 3db 80khz
Rise time: faster than 3 microvolts
Slew rate: greater than 40 volts per microsecond
Damping factor: greater than 300:1 20hz to 1khz
Hum and noise: 20hz to 20khz) -100db below rated output

I wonder how can you get into arguments about distortion or claim the manufacturer is hyping the specs. A Hafler TransNova 3000 with changes to its features/inputs becomes a Hafler P3000, a professional amplifier. So now it's no good, right? I mean that's the logic being given in a lot comments. Beef up a Krell, a Macintosh and add in more reliability and ruggedness with XLR input/outputs, level controls, and a fan and they're only good to anchor a boat, right? Automatically.

We all have strong opinions and a wide range of experiences I'm sure and even under threat of kidnapping and torture of being made to sit and listen to some pro amps, some will never change their opinions. That's okay. But there are a number of true audiophiles who believe differently. As I type this and listen through some music through electret headphones driven by an old Ashly FET1500M MOSFET amplifier, there's no hiss, no hum, no distortion, clarity in spades. Are there better amps, yes? But again I just say I hope those other people browsing the internet in similar pursuit of this topic keep an open mind and do some research and listening and form their own opinions.