IEC power cords interchangeable?

bthogan · January 2013

Quick stupid question!

I just bought an Adcom GFP-750 preamp. Great price, blue board. Unfortunately, it looks like the seller forgot to put the power cord in the box. Luckily - maybe - I have a few IEC cords, intended for computer PSUs, lying around. They're all fairly heavy-gauge (probably 14 awg at least). As far as I can tell, the manual doesn't have any warnings along the lines of "use the provided power cord, and ONLY the provided power cord!"

Now...I know that IEC cords are interchangeable, unless you're dealing with a really power-hungry amplifier or etc. I know that. But I don't really know it, you know what I mean? (What I mean is, I'm an amateur re: electronics, and I'm neurotic, and I don't want to hurt my beautiful new preamp.)

I'm sure that a lot of folks saw the title of this thread and thought Duh? Of course they are! Which is as it should be, because they are, generally. I was wondering if one or more people could reassure me that a preamp, even the GFP-750, will run with an IEC from a computer PSU, without any harm to the preamp, because an IEC is an IEC. Please feel free to point out that preamps are not heavy power drawers, and computer PSUs can be, so there shouldn't be an issue with overheating or etc., and there's no danger in using a heavy-gauge power cord (like my PSU cords) for a low-draw component - it's not gonna give the preamp "too much power" and blow its brains out.

I know all of these things. I just don't trust myself to be right about them, without confirmation from more knowledgable parties. And I don't want to hurt that preamp.

Thanks for help.

decal · January 2013

Use what you have.

bthogan · January 2013

decal wrote: »

Use what you have.

Thank you.

We'll not speak of this again.

F1nut · January 2013

There's a whole big, wide world of aftermarket power cords just waiting for you to try a few.

bthogan · January 2013

F1nut wrote: »

There's a whole big, wide world of aftermarket power cords just waiting for you to try a few.

Oh believe me...once the bank account recovers from the holidays, I will go a-shopping...already have my eye on the Shunyata Venom 3 - "the beginner's aftermarket power cord".

Systems · January 2013

Venom 3 is pretty good bang for buck from what I have read.
I am a die hard VH "style" type myself.
Just depends on your taste, you might have to try several to see what your tastes are in power cables.

Clipdat · January 2013

bthogan wrote: »

Oh believe me...once the bank account recovers from the holidays, I will go a-shopping...already have my eye on the Shunyata Venom 3 - "the beginner's aftermarket power cord".

Will you also be switching out the cord for your cd6004?

bthogan · January 2013

Clipdat wrote: »

Will you also be switching out the cord for your cd6004?

I'd like to, at least to give it a shot. I'd also like to put one on my McCormack DNA-1, when I get it back, along with cdp and pre. Won't be cheap, though, even with the Venom 3. There's actually a Venom 3 specifically for low-draw components like preamps and cd players, that I'd love to try out on my cdp and pre. I've read comments from some folks who say the difference on non-amplifying components is even more noticeable than it is on amps.

I'll need an extension cord for a couple of them...and there is, in fact, a Venom 3 extension cord, which is not much cheaper than the conventional cord.

Hoping for a sale some time in the near-future.

zingo · January 2013

The only thing I look at on cheap power cords is the current rating. Some of the cheaper ones are only rated for 10A, and should not be used with large amplifiers. Other than that, use what you have and it should work great!

ViperZ · January 2013

zingo wrote: »

The only thing I look at on cheap power cords is the current rating. Some of the cheaper ones are only rated for 10A, and should not be used with large amplifiers. Other than that, use what you have and it should work great!

Just out of curiosity I 'crunched some numbers'. Lets take 10A continuous current load, so the amp at 125V supply voltage should be consuming 1250 Watts of power continuously. That would be a crazy huge amp. Say, the amp is 60% efficient, that would be 750 Watts of continous sound output power. We are talking about some giant concert amp or one of those Krell 900e monoblocks being pushed continuously here

zingo · January 2013

In theory yes, but I feel more comfortable using power cords that have the same rating as my outlets, then cheap Chinese ones with below-spec ratings; even if that rating still exceeds my equipment.

It's like putting a 20A outlet on a 15A circuit. Even if you will never will draw that current (and know not to anyway), it still makes me feel uncomfortable because of the what if factory with not having a circuit with matched ratings.

bklynNupe · January 2013

Paul makes great pc's for stupid cheap.

F1nut · January 2013

ViperZ wrote: »

Just out of curiosity I 'crunched some numbers'. Lets take 10A continuous current load, so the amp at 125V supply voltage should be consuming 1250 Watts of power continuously. That would be a crazy huge amp. Say, the amp is 60% efficient, that would be 750 Watts of continous sound output power. We are talking about some giant concert amp or one of those Krell 900e monoblocks being pushed continuously here

If you have ever gone from your standard 14 gauge, 15 amp max house wire to 10 gauge, 30 amp max house wire, you'll know why having a properly rated (overrated is even better) power cord makes all the difference in the world. :cool:

ViperZ · January 2013

F1nut wrote: »

If you have ever gone from your standard 14 gauge, 15 amp max house wire to 10 gauge, 30 amp max house wire, you'll know why having a properly rated (overrated is even better) power cord makes all the difference in the world. :cool:

I used to work on the space shuttle systems, and now design signal systems for trains, which includes power equipment. Trust me, I know how a big power cable looks like and what it can do.
I don't mind using well-designed thick cables in my home equipment. But by your theory, I should go get a nice 2/0 cable, which I am using to power a fairly large transformer, and hook it up to my home theater amp?

F1nut · January 2013

If I could figure out how to connect a 2 gauge wire to the outlet you're damn right I'd do it. :twisted:

GlennDog · January 2013

ViperZ wrote: »

I should go get a nice 2/0 cable, which I am using to power a fairly large transformer, and hook it up to my home theater amp?

That's what I'm talk'n about!!

Systems · January 2013

F1nut wrote: »

If you have ever gone from your standard 14 gauge, 15 amp max house wire to 10 gauge, 30 amp max house wire, you'll know why having a properly rated (overrated is even better) power cord makes all the difference in the world. :cool:

Your component will draw what it needs.
A 15 amp amplifier does not draw 15 amps, only what is needed, and if it needs 13 amps it will draw it (your breaker will prolly trip before then if it is 15 amp).
Each component draws what is needed only.

Not many components have over 16-14 ga wire internally anyway.
I am a firm believer in PC's don't get me wrong.

Love me some "dedicated lines" though, from the breaker box.
Only thing running on that breaker is your stereo.
Pretty damn sweet, I have 2.

KILLER BANG FOR BUCK!:cheesygrin:

Promise!

Systems · January 2013

What I should have said is.......a 15 amp circuit will not draw 15 amps, rarely can it draw that much current with a 15 amp breaker (without tripping the breaker).

More about the "Dedicated Lines":
I have 2- VH Audio (no affiliation) cryoed 10 ga "Dedicated Lines", 20 amp breakers, 20 amp receptacle.
More bang for buck to do a dedicated line as opposed to power cables.
IMHO do it first then get into power cables, JMHO.

F1nut · January 2013

pepster wrote: »

Your component will draw what it needs.
A 15 amp amplifier does not draw 15 amps, only what is needed, and if it needs 13 amps it will draw it (your breaker will prolly trip before then if it is 15 amp).
Each component draws what is needed only.

No sheeet Sherlock. Not taking amps here, talking gauge.

Not many components have over 16-14 ga wire internally anyway.

Seems to matter more getting the juice there, like speaker cables matter more than what's inside the cabinet.

I am a firm believer in PC's don't get me wrong.

You ought to be, you sell'em

Love me some "dedicated lines" though, from the breaker box.

Audio 101

Speedskater · January 2013

pepster wrote: »

What I should have said is.......a 15 amp circuit will not draw 15 amps, rarely can it draw that much current with a 15 amp breaker (without tripping the breaker).

JMHO.

It's not as simple as that. Remember those old (fast disappearing) incandescent light bulbs? Connect a bunch of them to a switched 15 Amp circuit until the total current draw is 15 Amps. Switch them off and let them cool down. When you first switch them back on the current will be 150 Amps! Then the current will settle down to the continuous 15 Amps. The important thing is that circuit breakers and wires can and do safely carry way more than their rated current for short periods of time. The shorter time the greater the current. The 15 Amp current rating is for 3 hours of continuous use, like the above light bulbs.

ViperZ · January 2013

Speedskater wrote: »

It's not as simple as that. Remember those old (fast disappearing) incandescent light bulbs? Connect a bunch of them to a switched 15 Amp circuit until the total current draw is 15 Amps. Switch them off and let them cool down. When you first switch them back on the current will be 150 Amps! Then the current will settle down to the continuous 15 Amps. The important thing is that circuit breakers and wires can and do safely carry way more than their rated current for short periods of time. The shorter time the greater the current. The 15 Amp current rating is for 3 hours of continuous use, like the above light bulbs.

There is a huge difference between being able to safely carry a given amount of current continuously over time vs. being able to carry a spike of current over a few seconds. Yes, short period of time is that short when you are talking 150 amps. Otherwise, if your breaker won't trip, you'll melt your wires, I don't even want to imagine what will happen to an electronic equipment on the other end of the wire.

tonyb · January 2013

Nothing says "house fire" like melting wires.....

agfrost · January 2013

tonyb wrote: »

Nothing says "house fire" like melting wires.....

...except perhaps "a dozen Molotov cocktails." But that doesn't belong in this thread.

IEC power cords interchangeable?

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