Help hooking up 4 speakers & 2 tweeters to 4CH amp

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H1881
H1881 Posts: 2
edited March 2012 in Car Audio & Electronics
Hi all. I have just picked up a pair of DB691s, a pair of DB651s and a pair of DB1001 tweeters which I plan to hook up to a Alpine MRX-F30 4 channel amp.

The output of the amp is 50W RMS X 4 at 4ohms.

The DB1001s shall be on the front dash, the DB691s in the front doors and the DB651s in the rear doors.

The above is to be fitted in a Nissan Frontier.

My questions are:

1. Can I hook up the tweeters in parallel to the front speakers and if so, what effect would it have over the overall output of the front speakers?

2. Do I connect the tweeter directly to the amp output or do I have to use the connection with the tweeter attenuation wire loop?

3. If I have to use the connection with the tweeter attenuation wire, do I have to cut the yellow wire or would I have decide about that once everything is hooked up?

4. Would anyone know whether I would gain any sound benefit in lining my doors with Dynamat Xtreme?

Thanks for your help.
Post edited by H1881 on

Comments

  • Vital
    Vital Posts: 747
    edited March 2012
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    Easiest and best option as far as sound quality is to get rid of your DB651 and DB1001 and buy DB6501 which will give you a woofer and a separate tweeter all powered by 2 amp channels.
    2008 Nissan Altima
    Kenwood DNX 5140
    Arc Audio IDX and XEQ
    Polk Audio SR6500 active and SR124-dvc sealed
    Polk Audio PA500.4 and PA1200.1
  • pentoncm
    pentoncm Posts: 379
    edited March 2012
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    Yes dynamt really works. It is not going to really sound proof your doors. It can't do that by itself. What it does do is dramatically reduce the resonace of your door panel. You never want to mount a speaker on an enclosure or baffle that it itself vibrates. Mount the woofers on top of the dynamat and you will hear a difference right away. Also one of the most important things is to cover up all of the holes in the door panel so that the backwave from the speaker doesn't meet the front wave; this is the biggest source of lack of midbass because of cancellation.
    Audison Bit Ten
    Kenwood X595
    Polk MM6501
    Polk MM1240
    Mtx 704x
    Alpine MRX50
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited March 2012
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    Start by running only the db691 in your front doors. Bridge them off the amp and get 150 watts per speaker @ 4ohms. Keep your amp gains low. The 691's need more than 50 watts to sing. Seal your doors with dynamat for sure. Run it this way for a week and then see if you really need more speakers. I would not run the 6x9 in the doors and then add another pair of tweets. It would sound really bright.
  • pentoncm
    pentoncm Posts: 379
    edited March 2012
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    There seems to be a big misconception in car audio that by adding extra tweeters you get better SQ. People try to put them in strange places like right in the headrest (BOSE:eek:) or in the B pillar aimed right at your ear.

    Adding extra tweeters would make the music sound really thin and probably unbearable to listen to at loud levels.
    Audison Bit Ten
    Kenwood X595
    Polk MM6501
    Polk MM1240
    Mtx 704x
    Alpine MRX50
  • H1881
    H1881 Posts: 2
    edited March 2012
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    Thanks for the replies.

    Unfortunately, I have to make do with what I have - no Polk dealers where I live. Picked everything up on a trip to the US.

    I purchased the tweeters after speaking to someone at Polk who recommended them as my door speakers are at foot level.

    Shall definitely be investing in the Dynamat Xtreme.
  • pentoncm
    pentoncm Posts: 379
    edited March 2012
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    I wouldn't worry too much about the speakers being low. The only way i would do it is if you could attenuate the additional tweeters then it could be reasonable to just add a little top end, but otherwise i wouldn't go that way.
    Components would be the way to go if you want to have the tweeter up high.
    Audison Bit Ten
    Kenwood X595
    Polk MM6501
    Polk MM1240
    Mtx 704x
    Alpine MRX50