can i just buy some replacement tweeters?

malvrich
malvrich Posts: 49
edited January 2012 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Hi all,
i seem to have a habit of blowing tweeters in my T15s. have had the 1st pair replaced nicely from warranty, nut now have blown the tweets in another pair of T15s.
Can anyone give me the price of these tweeters? Even though my speakers are under warranty, i would rather just have a box of tweeters than to wait 3 weeks to get them replaced each time they blow.
These are great sounding speakers but the tweets are a pain in the butt.
I dont blast my music, in fact I downgraded to a LESS powerful amp when i bought these just to avoid speaker damage.
Any info would be appreciated.
Post edited by malvrich on
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Comments

  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited January 2012
    It's not only how loud you play your speakers, it's the quality/power of the amplification with which you're driving them. You need to use an amp that delivers very clean power, IOW doesn't go into clipping with musical peaks, or during loud passages.

    What kind of amp/pre amp or AVR are you using?
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • malvrich
    malvrich Posts: 49
    edited January 2012
    Harman/Kardon HK6500
    70 wpc
    pretty good amplification
    i 've never turned it up over halfway so we're talking roughly 35-40 watts continous load at most.
    also, i've noticed quite a few posters mention this happens when using a PC as a source component.
    guess what, me too.
    never a prob when playing turntable, radio or CD.
    i do like a forward top end though so i could be over EQing the sound, but COME ON
    35-40 watts.
    T15 is rated to 100 watts (not sure if thats continuous or short term max)

    thanks for a quick reply.
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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 26,925
    edited January 2012
    malvrich wrote: »
    I downgraded to a LESS powerful amp when i bought these just to avoid speaker damage.
    Any info would be appreciated.

    you did yourself no favors by doing that. You could very well be out of gas in the H/K at the 10:00 position as musical peaks will make it work very hard for it to keep up.
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  • malvrich
    malvrich Posts: 49
    edited January 2012
    i never even push it hard, or have desire to. i think its some kind of surge from the laptop prob.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 51,674
    edited January 2012
    Nah,that's not it. Your AVR is clipping and damaging the tweeters.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited January 2012
    Two things, Donwgrading was a bad idea. The bigger amp had more headroom than the one you ave now.

    Second, the PC is probably sending a signal that is too hot for the HK and the HK is clipping. You don't turn it up past 10 because it is probably already quite loud.

    How are you getting the signal from the PC to the HK?
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  • malvrich
    malvrich Posts: 49
    edited January 2012
    Fair enuff but 1st, the current amp, while less powerful, is of better quality and cleaner than the 120 wpc Sony it replaced.
    2nd, i feel its hard to believe the int amp would clip at 11 oclock.
    3rd, the signal is routed from the headphone jack via a Y adapter to a line level input to the amp.
    this is where i believe the problem lies, as i sometimes get the hum from the laptop that others have posted reference to.
    i am certainly looking for a more elegant way to interface these two. such as a wireless trans/ceiver thingy from audioengine.
    i dont mean to be contrary and do very much appreciate everyone's input.
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  • PreCd
    PreCd Posts: 786
    edited January 2012
    It could be your amp but these are book shelf speakers right? 8 ohm too. I would think your 70 watt amp would drive them. If no other source does this then you are probably on the right track.

    I TRIED to drive my SDA2Bs for years with a Yamaha R-9 which is 100wpc. The tweeters shutdown at around 10 o'clock. The receiver finally died and I purchased a Adcom GFA-555 with much better capabilities to drive my speakers. Now, if I wanted to, I could turn my volume past 12. Don't want to often but have tested it up there. No more tweeter shutdowns.


    malvrich wrote: »
    Fair enuff but 1st, the current amp, while less powerful, is of better quality and cleaner than the 120 wpc Sony it replaced.
    2nd, i feel its hard to believe the int amp would clip at 11 oclock.
    3rd, the signal is routed from the headphone jack via a Y adapter to a line level input to the amp.
    this is where i believe the problem lies, as i sometimes get the hum from the laptop that others have posted reference to.
    i am certainly looking for a more elegant way to interface these two. such as a wireless trans/ceiver thingy from audioengine.
    i dont mean to be contrary and do very much appreciate everyone's input.
    SDA2BTL
    Marantz CD5004
    Adcom GFA-545
    Bottlehead Quickie Tube Preamp
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