What Brand of amps tend to be Warm

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Comments

  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited May 2011
    toob amps are kinda warm,,some are warmer than others,,,,,others are just cool.
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • jbooker82
    jbooker82 Posts: 1,627
    edited May 2011
    I just didnt want to be buying someone elses problems.
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II
  • finfan
    finfan Posts: 35
    edited June 2011
    txcoastal1 wrote: »
    A new 7201 is $2000-$2600...minor repairs could be as little as 45 and major 200 you'll still be ahead...my .02

    Where did you see the Sunfire 7201 for $2000? The only online dealer I saw had it for $3200.
    Receiver - Onkyo TX - NR807
    CD Player - Onkyo C-S5VL
    Bluray Player - Playstation 3
    Turntable - Sony PS-LX110
    Tuner - Yamaha TX-497
    Main Speakers - Polk Audio RT 2000I
    Center Speaker - Polk Audio CSI 400I
    Rear speakers - Polk Audio FX 500I
    10" Sub - Polk Audio PSW 450
    TV - Sony Bravia KDL-52XBR9
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 2,016
    edited June 2011
    Fongolio wrote: »
    ...in the vintage category is Hafler amps sound warm as well.
    Which model Hafler? I have XL280s, had DH200s. I find the 280s warmer than the 200s. Both 'cold' compared to a Belles 1.

    The Belles, while rated at a mere 80 WPC @ 8ohms, will deliver 30 ampers peak!! It makes my 'A7s, in PrazVT's words, "pound!"

    When considering used gear, especially the vintage stuff, check DC offset. One of my amp's DC offset measures 1 volt*! [BAD!!] Under 15 mv is good. If any channel measures at or above 50mv, consider having a repair tech look at it.
    * front end needs new matched transistors

    I invite comment for which DC offset measurement method is correct: shorted or open inputs.

    I've read Rotel reviews claiming some degree of the "warmth" you seek.

    cheers

    PS: PrazVT, check my sig. we have identical speaker complements
    Samsung 60" QN65Q7FAMFXZA QLED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed” & “Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    *all connected w/Premiere ICs
    5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”

    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • love2listen
    love2listen Posts: 172
    edited June 2011
    My research on Sunfire amps (and the one Sunfire amp I own) indicate a 10 Year shelf life for capacitors - particularly the filter caps. Then expect to pay between $150-$200 for repairs.

    Perhaps not every Sunfire, but check it out online - you'd be surprised.

    Monster Jam,
    Which Sunfire do you own?
  • Monster Jam
    Monster Jam Posts: 919
    edited June 2011
    19" Sunfire Cinema Grand 200x5
    Manufactured: 1999

    Living in the desert, a cool-running amplifier was very attractive, as is an efficient one for power consumption purposes, so Sunfire was high on my list. But I think I can say with a degree of certainty that I am no TRUE audiophile. Yes, the amp makes the audio sound better - thats obvious. But I have doubts as to whether I would be able to tell the difference between this Sunfire, a brand new Sunfire, a B&K, Parasound, or an Emotiva when any of these are hooked up to the same speakers and the same source. So in essence, anything I spent over and above the cheapest option meant I paid too much. But thats just me - to each their own.

    Off Topic (somewhat) - I've had the amp for, oh, about 2 months since its caps have been replaced, and I can say this about the difference: It makes good sources sound better and it makes poor sources sound worse. That includes poorly mixed multi-channel recordings in movies as well. As I've stated in the movie/music thread, Matrix on Blu-Ray was nearly unbearable. I thought my settings were jacked up - thats how bad it was.
    Do you hear that buzzing noise? :confused:
  • jbooker82
    jbooker82 Posts: 1,627
    edited August 2011
    How are the Carver TFM series of amplifiers. I know they are older but are they or would they be a good match for a pair of RTI A7's?
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II
  • PrazVT
    PrazVT Posts: 1,607
    edited August 2011
    PS: PrazVT, check my sig. we have identical speaker complements

    Nice - same taste I guess lol. I think if I'd learned all that I have in the last year, up front before spending a penny, I may have ponied up for a single 5ch amp (ie. Parasound A51) instead of 3 amps. But I guess power-wise, they're pushing similar amounts (A21 - 250w, 60A, NC2250 - 250w 45A, NC2125 - 400W mono, 35A).

    I've never heard a Carver, Sunfire or Rotel amp - definitely curious about those. I may get my dad one for his system for xmas to check it out.
    Dali Optikon 1Mk2
    NAD D3020 V2
    Schiit Bifrost 2/64

    ..the rest are headphone setups.
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited August 2011
    Carver's are better to listen to first. Not everyone likes the Carver sound. I know they work well with SDA's but I have never heard them with any of the newer Polk Speakers.
  • stuwee
    stuwee Posts: 1,508
    edited August 2011
    Vintage SAE 2600's or 2400's, nice tone, not sure what you consider warmth in sound, but SAE's have the power and the LOOK, plus many still going strong 20+ years on :smile:
    Thorens TD125MKII, SME3009,Shure V15/ Teac V-8000S, Denon DN-790R cass, Teac 3340 RtR decks, Onix CD2...Sumo Electra Plus pre>SAE A1001 amp>Martin Logan Summit's
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    edited August 2011
    1 more for parasound 90 vintage hca 1200 warm and strong.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • TORO3 (TORI3)
    TORO3 (TORI3) Posts: 8
    edited August 2011
    finfan wrote: »
    Where did you see the Sunfire 7201 for $2000? The only online dealer I saw had it for $3200.

    Never heard the 7201, but was able to get the Sunfire Cinema Seven 17" off ebay for, if I remember correctly, $1100. I've had this amp for more than a year and it's been great in my HT. Personally, I like the style of the old Sunfire's, but I sure would like to hear a 7201.

    Finally, if you do your research and consistently look on A-Gon and ebay, you can find pretty sweet deals on some old Conrad Johnson amps, which are also very warm. I was able to snag a MF2300 for $500 out of Tucson for my 2-Channel and really haven't looked back.

    Good luck in your journey!
    HT: RTi8s, CSi5, RTi4s, HSU ULS-15, Elite VSX23, Sunfire Cinema Seven

    2-CH: Sierra-1s, Sunfire HRS-8, CJ MF2300, Parasound P3, MH Maverick SACD
  • niente
    niente Posts: 68
    edited August 2011
    There have been a couple Parasound 5250's lately on Ebay at your 1500 #

    Great sounding amp !

    As for age - i still regularly use my Sansui separates -- from the late 70's !- no problems ever
    Onkyo TX-SR804 receiver
    Parasound 5250
    LSI 15's
    LSI C
    LSI FX's
    PSW1000 Sub
    OPPO 93
    Sony CDP-C315 CD
    Monster AC line cond
    Audioquest, Blue Jeans & Monster wires/connects
    40" Sony Bravia XBR6
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2011
    jbooker82...i am using two UPA-1,s with a H/K3490..Polk M70's..i feel they are on the warm side..great sound too.I had a Carver back in the 90's and i would say they are close in sound too it.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • ViperZ
    ViperZ Posts: 2,046
    edited August 2011
    Rotel, anything from vintage to modern are very warm. Vintage NAD are also warm. I also find vintage H/K to be on the warm side (Citation 24 as an example).
    Panasonic PT-AE4000U projector for movies
    Carada 106" Precision Series (Classic Cinema White)
    Denon AVR-X3600H pre/pro
    Outlaw 770 7-channel amplifier
    B&W CDM1-SE fronts
    B&W CDM-CNT center
    B&W CDM1 rears on MoPADs
    JBL SP8CII in-ceiling height speakers
    Samsung DTB-H260F OTA HDTV tuner
    DUAL NHT SubTwo subwoofers
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-Ray player
    Belkin PF60 Power Center
    Harmony 1100 RF remote with RF extender
    Sony XBR-X950G 55" 4K HDR Smart TV + PS3 in the living room
  • 20hz
    20hz Posts: 636
    edited August 2011
    My friend has had many adcoms the 535 & 555 so I got a gfa-5300 it ran warm turns out that all MOSFET amps run warm and I think all the adcoms with 4#'s on the part # are the newer "mosfet series" amps
    SO
    The older ones are not mosfet 353,545,555 etc .
    I cant be 100% sure since I only has one adcom but regardless stick tp the older series (535,545,555) .
    and of coarse any PURE CLASS A WILL RUN WARM , or a tube amp .
  • jbooker82
    jbooker82 Posts: 1,627
    edited August 2011
    Well I don't need a super warm amp. Just one that will be a good match to the rti a series. I still want good detailed highs for HT. Kind a give em a more balanced sound.
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II
  • jbooker82
    jbooker82 Posts: 1,627
    edited August 2011
    Well I just bought a Carver A-753x. 250w x 3 in to 8 ohm. I dont feel my Onkyo TX NR808 is lacking but have been curiouse to see how the RTI A 7's and CSI A4's will sound with some umph behind them. Got to start some where so i guess I will start here.
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited August 2011
    Congrats JB! Make sure you come back and tell us what you think.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 2,016
    edited August 2011
    20hz wrote: »
    My friend has had many adcoms the 535 & 555 so I got a gfa-5300 it ran warm turns out that all MOSFET amps run warm...

    ...of course any PURE CLASS A WILL RUN WARM , or a tube amp .
    Unless I'm missing something, doesn't the concept of "warm" in recent posts refer to a sound characteristic, not temperature? See post #35.

    BTW: my Haf XL280s idle warmer than my Belles' under a "full head of steam*," but "sound" colder.

    * connected to 8 ohms

    cheers tony
    Samsung 60" QN65Q7FAMFXZA QLED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro, Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids “Foamed” & “Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop)

    LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels*. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - RB981*
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981* -> Bi-amped CSi A6
    Surrounds: Rotel 981* -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    *all connected w/Premiere ICs
    5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”

    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
  • dpowell
    dpowell Posts: 3,081
    edited August 2011
    +1 on Parasound. Stay away from Adcom if you are looking for warm.
    ____________________________________________________________

    polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, McIntosh C2300, Marantz AV7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Sim Audio Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,069
    edited August 2011
    B&K is just on the warm side of neutral and would be my vote.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • cristo
    cristo Posts: 231
    edited August 2011
    toob amps are kinda warm,,some are warmer than others,,,,,others are just cool.

    Any tube amp with 250 wpc x 5 is going to be VERY warm.
    You might not need to run the heat in your listening room in the winter.
    Might not be so good in the summer, especially if you don't have a/c in the house like me.
    cristo

    NAD C 545BEE cd player, Philips AF877 turntable / Shure V15V-MR with JICO SAS stylus,
    Tascam 122 mkIII cassette deck, Harman Kardon 3480 receiver, Terk FM-50 antenna in the attic,
    Soundcraftsmen SE550 stereo equalizer, Polk Monitor 10a speakers
    (with Sonicraft/Solen/Mills crossover rebuild)
  • 20hz
    20hz Posts: 636
    edited August 2011
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    Unless I'm missing something, doesn't the concept of "warm" in recent posts refer to a sound characteristic, not temperature? See post #35.

    BTW: my Haf XL280s idle warmer than my Belles' under a "full head of steam*," but "sound" colder.

    * connected to 8 ohms

    cheers tony

    my bad :(

    I had amps that sound "warm" but always been uneasy if the amp was physically very warm to touch so I got rid of them .
    I got rid of my adcom gfa5300 but that amp sounded very nice , I used it as referance for sound quality , not to strong on the power side .
    I wanted to compare it to a older adcom 545 (never did) ..
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,589
    edited August 2011
    Sunfires are useually used to drive low impedence speakers and there for pass a ton more current through them. I guess the more they're used , the more breakdowns are bound to happen. If you can get one cheap enough to off-set a 350.00 +shipping both way bill, if damage helps AND it still comes way below the original price by even below half, then It,t worth a chance to me.

    I bought a 4000.00 sunfire Sig 600x2 for 1300. I think. a couple years ago or more. ( thanks for pushing me "Nooshinjohn..:wink: ), Well it shut down 3 months later in the right channel. 300. total that time and they mailed back and it arrived Christmas EVE...:tongue::biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: :cool:

    It's been working fine except the gauge in the window stoped working. the light comes on in there and I'm ok with that for now for sure. The Amp powered my SDA-SRS2's for many , many hours since that Rchannel fix. Dead silence and power out the A** if need be with very little heat from the unit.

    The sound is neutral to warn but it has clarity and sense of liveness to my CDs and now records wonce in a while. I will now test the 600x2 with my Magnapan 2.5R's maybe tomorrow. I might have to switch output to the other output for planer speaker instead of cone bases like I've used for years. It will be interesting for sure! I was going to put in my sdaCRS+'s but they're a little buried in the back and the Maggies were up from sort-of.:tongue: They do look great beside those RT3000p's too. Reminisent of my old SRS2's grills black-out personality properties. I have the tweeter on the inside for now, and I'm going right now to read up on placement directions:tongue::wink::cool:

    Sorry for the rant.





    Thats about what I paid for mine after shipping. Upon discovering the noise on all channels, I contacted the seller and he immediately refunded the amount of the estimated repair charge. I got it back and now and no problems; I have a pretty good local electronics repair shop to lean on. But early on in this crisis there was angst. If I could have gone back in time, I would have bought an Emotiva product instead of the used Sunfire. Heck, I'd still like to buy an Emotiva XPA-5 so I can side by side it against the Sunfire.

    In response to Heiney's comment - I cant answer the question. I'd like to believe that Sunfire - a VERY highly respected company, uses superior internal components, but I don't know. I just know my singular experience and my research - which is not comprehensive by any stretch.

    And in full disclosure, the Sunfire amp I have is 12 years old, not 10.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.

    “Anger is an acid that can do more harm to the vessel in which it is stored than to anything on which it is poured.”
    --Mark Twain.

    “If at first you don't succeed, then skydiving definitely isn't for you.” - Steven Wright