Anybody got R15's mounted on the wall?
I have a set and I think I'm gonna mount them on the wall. They have little screw hole mounts but I'm not sure they would stay on the wall with just those.
I have them powered with a Rotel amp that's pretty stout and they will do a good job of vibrating the bedroom. I may not even hook up a sub. But I'm afraid they are gonna vibrate right off of a screw.
Anybody have any experience with the screw mounts?
I have them powered with a Rotel amp that's pretty stout and they will do a good job of vibrating the bedroom. I may not even hook up a sub. But I'm afraid they are gonna vibrate right off of a screw.
Anybody have any experience with the screw mounts?
Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
Post edited by Jstas on
Comments
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I mounted mine using only the screw hole and didn't have any any problems. I had them in a bigger room without too much vibration, but I always thought they were very stable. If you can manage to get the screw in a stud it would obviously be beneficial.Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
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NO problems. Have these on the wall in a spare bedroom."The good thing about science is that it's true whether or not you believe in it." Neil deGrasse Tyson.
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I mounted mine using only the screw hole and didn't have any any problems. I had them in a bigger room without too much vibration, but I always thought they were very stable. If you can manage to get the screw in a stud it would obviously be beneficial.
Oh, it'll be in a stud for sure. They are a little heavy to be using molly bolts or hollow wall hangers or something. At least a little too heavy for my tastes.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
Actually, the R15s are really light speakers. Not Bose light, but very easy to handle and mount. I have them mounted from the ceiling using a mount plate that attaches to a standard electrical box mount. I installed the junction boxes on the ceiling where I wanted the speakers placed and originally had speaker wall plates over them, intending to use a separate mount into a stud for the speaker with wire going back to the plate. But these mounts screw directly into the junction box attached to the ceiling stud with bare wire coming out of them for the connection. They also have a pivot that allows precise tweeter aim. The screw heads I used fit very snug in the slots. So they aren't going anywhere. But I doubt gravity would let a speaker jump off the screw heads in any case.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-v5tY4yBZwxV/p_121AM20B/Pinpoint-AM20-Black.html?showAll=Y&tp=586
edit: I think they have a wall mount option as well. -
I should add that ceiling mounting also gets the speakers out and away from the wall which may add some unwanted boominess if the speaker were mounted right on top of a hard surface.
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Dude, I know what you're saying but it's still mounted to a stud. A vibrating speaker that is this heavy mounted to a hollow wall hanger...yeah, I just see it vibrating itself right through the wall eventually. They may be light but they are still around 6-7 pounds, maybe a bit more. That's the weight of a large painting or a moderate sized mirror. Thing is, mirrors and paintings don't vibrate.
I was considering mounts like that but I'm not real keen on cutting holes in walls and mounting boxes. I'll probably just use the screw method or small shelves.Expert Moron Extraordinaire
You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you! -
I used the screw/keyhole method straight to my wall (on studs of course).
Even though I may have used the speakers as surrounds at one point, I had a Velodyne 12" sub right underneath one for HT and the vibrations never caused any problems/etc. Thought it would've been worse with the HSU subwoofer I built since it hit much harder and deeper, but no harm done.
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A vibrating speaker that is this heavy mounted to a hollow wall hanger...yeah, I just see it vibrating itself right through the wall eventually.
I agree the weak point would be the wall hanger without the stud. But the keyhole mounting method is pretty solid if the screw is anchored well into a stud. If you're concerned about it rattling around, just make sure the screw head is just thick enough so that it slides snug into the keyhole slot. The slot depth is not very deep. And a too thick screw head will not fit.
I actually had better access through attic space to just make holes for junction boxes and hammer the j-boxes to the studs from above. Nice clean look without all the exposed speaker wires. But I understand not wanting to open walls.
