Help Wiring 2 Different Subs!?

BassheadBasshead Posts: 5
edited June 2009 in Car Subwoofer Talk
Hi everyone. I have a 10" Polk Audio DX series sub and a Alpine Type R 10" sub. Both great subs but problem is that the type r is dual 2ohm while my polk is 4ohm. If anyone can tell me how to wire the type R to 4 ohm so I can hook up both subs at 4ohm that would be greatly appreciated.

And I'm going to use this amp http://www.lanzar.com/itempage.asp?MODEL=VIBE241 at the moment but will upgrade later once I get abit more money.

Also, it says the amp can produce 420 RMS x 2 @ 2 ohms. I know this is probably overrated but was wondering if I could still hook my polk audio Dx 10" up at 2 ohm without damaging it? Like I said any help is appreciated. Thanks
Post edited by Basshead on

Comments

  • exalted512exalted512 Posts: 10,796
    edited May 2009
    You dont want to mix subs, its generally not a good idea. I wouldn't even put to type Rs of different sizes in a car.

    What I would do is throw the type R in a big ported box, then wire it like this to your existing amp:
    1_2ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif
    Make sure you bridge the amp.

    I believe that would yield you the best results!
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • BassheadBasshead Posts: 5
    edited June 2009
    Ok I'll sell the polk then and get a mono amp for the Alpine. Do you know where I could go to find the specs of a ported box for type R? Thank you very much for your help!
  • exalted512exalted512 Posts: 10,796
    edited June 2009
    I would try alpines website.
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • ahardy17ahardy17 Posts: 85
    edited June 2009
    ok ready....dont bother trying to sell anything in this market haha...wire the type r's voice coils in series then wire the 2 subs in parallel. then it'll be like one big frankenstein of a 2 ohm load for the sub to push bridged! it sounds like such fun! :D
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30
  • BassheadBasshead Posts: 5
    edited June 2009
    ahardy17 wrote: »
    ok ready....dont bother trying to sell anything in this market haha...wire the type r's voice coils in series then wire the 2 subs in parallel. then it'll be like one big frankenstein of a 2 ohm load for the sub to push bridged! it sounds like such fun! :D

    So you are saying it is OK to wire up 2 different subs? I thought exalted512 said it isn't a good idea? I'm abit of a noob when it comes to wiring up subs if you could tell me where to find a diagram of what you are saying or tell me what negative to connect to what positive..etc.. that would be much appreciated. I've got a 2 channel amp and 2 subs so no point having a sub just sittin in my room I guess lol
  • nguyendotnguyendot Posts: 3,587
    edited June 2009
    I would not mix subs. Honestly it will sound like crap. Also, Lanzar is known for overrating their amps. I would invest in a higher quality amp. Alpine Type-R's are very power hungry and inefficient (i owned 2 12" Type-R with the rubber surrounds).

    I ran an MBQuart QAA 1000wrms amplifier [email protected] and it ATE power. Sounds good but you have to give it a lot of power or you will blow them.
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
  • ahardy17ahardy17 Posts: 85
    edited June 2009
    Basshead wrote: »
    So you are saying it is OK to wire up 2 different subs? I thought exalted512 said it isn't a good idea? I'm abit of a noob when it comes to wiring up subs if you could tell me where to find a diagram of what you are saying or tell me what negative to connect to what positive..etc.. that would be much appreciated. I've got a 2 channel amp and 2 subs so no point having a sub just sittin in my room I guess lol

    well...i'm saying the subs would function. they're both gonna perform differently which will be weird but you take risks of lousy sound every time joe shmoe tries to make himself a fancy ported or bandbass enclosure anyway, so mixing subs isn't much more of a crime than that. you gotta find the specs on that amp and figure out if it's bridgeable and what it's rated at for 2 and 4 ohm loads. do you have a dual sub box? if so get that amp info and i can tell you how to run it if you really want to.

    nguyendot- is there any efficiency difference between foam and rubber surrounds?
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30
  • exalted512exalted512 Posts: 10,796
    edited June 2009
    All things the same, foam surround subs are usually more efficient than rubber surround subs.
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
  • nguyendotnguyendot Posts: 3,587
    edited June 2009
    Considering surrounds only, it depends how stiff the surround is. Since foam is generally stiffer I venture to say rubber surrounds are more efficient. That Alpines are very inefficient not because of their surrounds, but because of their very heavy cones. They have heavier cones than comparable models.
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
  • ahardy17ahardy17 Posts: 85
    edited June 2009
    awww rats, conflicting answers! to be honest i think it would make sense that foam surrounds are more efficient because despite their disadvantages (deteriorating with time , etc) many companies still seem to use foam surrounds in their high-end subs.

    why would alpine use such heavy cones? that doesn't seem very practical...
    In-Car:
    Head Unit: Sony MEX-1GP
    Door speakers: Infinity Kappa 680.9cs
    Rear speakers: Polk db690
    Subwoofers: Memphis Audio 15-M3124
    Amps: Pioneer GM5300T, Kenwood KAC 6020, Memphis Audio MCD1.1100

    In-Home:
    Harmon/Kardon AVR 230
    Harmon/Kardon DVD 101
    Yamaha RX-V995
    Bose 161
    Bose 901
    Polk FXi30
  • nguyendotnguyendot Posts: 3,587
    edited June 2009
    Heavy cones make for very stiff cones - they do not flex. My type-rs had the folded surrounds. Many use foam surrounds because they are cheap and dampen well.
    Main Surround -
    Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub

    Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250

    Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD
  • exalted512exalted512 Posts: 10,796
    edited June 2009
    Foam is generally lighter than rubber, and stiffness varies from sub to sub. This is also why almost all factory speakers have foam surrounds, theyre cheaper and theyre more efficient, which means you can get the speakers louder off of a terrible source like a radio or factory amplifier.
    -Cody
    Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
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