will they (RTi A7) soften over time?

gp4jesus
gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
edited May 2011 in Speakers
As these get closer to "broken in" will their sound soften? they're a smidged bright. Failing that I have the means to bi/tri-amp bypassing the internal XO. Otherwise they sound awesome

thnx tony
Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
*soldered

LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
Power Conditioning & Distribution:
3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
Post edited by gp4jesus on
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Comments

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 14,629
    edited April 2010
    For music they will sound bright, They will soften a little but not much. I have the A9's and after getting the SDA's my A9's see little music..
  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,799
    edited April 2010
    Adding warm sounding components will help.
  • Agent
    Agent Posts: 65
    edited April 2010
    Yes they will soften up. Mine were very bright the first time I listened to them. In fact, even after a couple days I could tell a difference. Running them with an amp will definitely help soften them up. Need more power to get the fullness of those 7 inch woofers...trust me.
    Samsung LN52A650 : PS3 : RTi A7s : CSi5 : SVS PC12-NSD : Pioneer VSX-9040THX : Emotiva XPA-3 = :D
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 14,629
    edited April 2010
    Agent wrote: »
    Yes they will soften up. Mine were very bright the first time I listened to them. In fact, even after a couple days I could tell a difference. Running them with an amp will definitely help soften them up. Need more power to get the fullness of those 7 inch woofers...trust me.

    It don't matter what you do the RTi series is a bright speaker. Yes they soften a little but when it comes to music even after 16 months they are still bright, some people like the bright sound me not so much.
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited April 2010
    For music they will sound bright, They will soften a little but not much. I have the A9's and after getting the SDA's my A9's see little music..

    My RTi A9s sound phenomenal with my Pioneer SC-27. Honestly, they are a match made in heaven that really crushes and semblance of brightness. As for the SDAs, they're basically on the other end of the spectrum. To me, the SDAs are way too warm and relaxed, not even close to neutral.
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited April 2010
    It don't matter what you do the RTi series is a bright speaker. Yes they soften a little but when it comes to music even after 16 months they are still bright, some people like the bright sound me not so much.

    I suppose it also helps that I have a fully treated room and have taken some serious time to dial these puppies in . . . too bad I will be replacing them soon :)
  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 14,629
    edited April 2010
    SolidSqual wrote: »
    My RTi A9s sound phenomenal with my Pioneer SC-27. Honestly, they are a match made in heaven that really crushes and semblance of brightness.
    \

    I am running the A9's with my SC-07, and I have a fully treated room as well. I am not saying they suck just that they are bright. for HT they are fantastic, for music they are ok IMO.. Like I said some people like the bright side of some speakers..
    SolidSqual wrote: »
    . As for the SDAs, they're basically on the other end of the spectrum. To me, the SDAs are way too warm and relaxed, not even close to neutral.

    You need to come over my house, not sure what SDA's you have had your ears on or how the were powered, and placed, but my SDA's blow the A9's so far out of the water it ain't even funny, there is no comparison. now I am talking 2 channel of course. The A9's don't have near the detail, sound stage, clarity, and Lower end of my SDA's.

    This is why I like having an HT setup, and a 2 channel setup.Best of both worlds.

    As it is said we all hear things differently. the main thing is to enjoy what we have..:cool:
  • SolidSqual
    SolidSqual Posts: 5,218
    edited April 2010
    \

    I am running the A9's with my SC-07, and I have a fully treated room as well. I am not saying they suck just that they are bright. for HT they are fantastic, for music they are ok IMO.. Like I said some people like the bright side of some speakers..



    You need to come over my house, not sure what SDA's you have had your ears on or how the were powered, and placed, but my SDA's blow the A9's so far out of the water it ain't even funny, there is no comparison. now I am talking 2 channel of course. The A9's don't have near the detail, sound stage, clarity, and Lower end of my SDA's.

    This is why I like having an HT setup, and a 2 channel setup.Best of both worlds.

    As it is said we all hear things differently. the main thing is to enjoy what we have..:cool:

    Oh, I'm not disputing the SDAs are a better speaker. That I know is true. But, I still don't care for their tone given the three systems I've heard.

    I gotta say, I know the RTi A9s are a cheap speaker. Hell, given what I've spent on gear in the past, they are chump change, but man o' man lately they have been sounding so good. Honestly, I know there is better sound. I'm just pumped how I've tweaked my 9s.
  • leroyjr1
    leroyjr1 Posts: 8,799
    edited April 2010
    Solid, what are you moving to next?
  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited April 2010
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    As these get closer to "broken in" will their sound soften? they're a smidged bright. Failing that I have the means to bi/tri-amp bypassing the internal XO. Otherwise they sound awesome

    thnx tony

    Hi Tony
    What kind of speaker cables and interconnects are you using? Maybe a good quality set of copper speaker cables and or IC's will tame things.

    Happy Easter by the way
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,145
    edited April 2010
    What receiver are you using? An external amp helps. Midrange and lows are boosted, providing a more balanced sound. Using a receiver and ICs with a reputation for warmth will help too.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited April 2010
    to all:
    I forget to mention they seem a little lean in the bass, too. Will that change (fill out) as time goes on?

    Please check my signature for equipment. Will add CD* & IC info etc to my signature soon. Meanwhile: MC Coax for music; MC toslink for the DVD-haven't watched any DVDs yet; MC reference between RSP and Belles. 3' run of budget 14 guage**. After the OFC wire, some internal rewiring, bi &/or (posibly) tri-amping, I'll execute some ideas from a "capacitor shootout" elsewhere on this forum.
    * try a different CD player. just remembered my Phillips changer is little bright .
    ** shorter run of OFC 12 guage AFTER completion of new cabinet to house equipment.

    to NJPolker:
    what exit? I'm formally from NJ too*; exit 139 (I think) on the GSP. Happy Resurection Day (Easter) to all; He lives!

    to solidsqual:
    "I'm just pumped how I've tweaked my 9s." What did you do?

    to agent:
    I forgot I started this "A7 brightness" thread

    thnx to all for your help & readg this far cheers tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited April 2010
    Ooops! Forgot. I'll try one of my Hafler XL280s to tame the brightness; retain the Belles for it's bottom end for the bottom end
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • NJPOLKER
    NJPOLKER Posts: 3,474
    edited April 2010
    gp4jesus wrote: »
    to all:
    I forget to mention they seem a little lean in the bass, too. Will that change (fill out) as time goes on?

    Please check my signature for equipment. Will add CD* & IC info etc to my signature soon. Meanwhile: MC Coax for music; MC toslink for the DVD-haven't watched any DVDs yet; MC reference between RSP and Belles. 3' run of budget 14 guage**. After the OFC wire, some internal rewiring, bi &/or (posibly) tri-amping, I'll execute some ideas from a "capacitor shootout" elsewhere on this forum.
    * try a different CD player. just remembered my Phillips changer is little bright .
    ** shorter run of OFC 12 guage AFTER completion of new cabinet to house equipment.

    to NJPolker:
    what exit? I'm formally from NJ too*; exit 139 (I think) on the GSP. Happy Resurection Day (Easter) to all; He lives!

    to solidsqual:
    "I'm just pumped how I've tweaked my 9s." What did you do?

    to agent:
    I forgot I started this "A7 brightness" thread

    thnx to all for your help & readg this far cheers tony


    I am from the central/western part of NJ, Hunterdon County. I don't blame you for leaving :)

    Question for you.
    What do you think you need to do to get those speakers to sing?
    My feeling is its all about the power source but what do I know!!!!!!
  • maximillian
    maximillian Posts: 2,136
    edited April 2010
    gp4jesus,

    Not sure if you will ever tame the brightness of the A7's. I had RTi6's and didn't like the tweeters either. I went with LSi speakers. Better amplification, biamping, better IC's, etc. will help but you may come to the realization that the speakers are not for you. Then there are other people who will say that the laid back LSi tweeter is too laid back for them and the speakers lack "shine". If the RTi's or the LSi's don't do it for you then you may need to either look at vintage Polk's or another brand.

    Lack of bass... for HT most will want a subwoofer regardless of what towers you use (generally speaking). Some of the bigger towers A7's, A9's, LSi15's may be OK for music by themselves. It all depends on your music taste. I run my LSi9's with a sub for music and like the combo.
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited April 2010
    I mentioned in my last reply I'll try my other changer as a first step to tame the brightness. I've favored the Phillips for it's coax output. If y'all take into account all the ICs involved in my system, you'll agree 1 coax is 1 less IC to contend with! BTW I use CDs I listened to for years, ones I know well, that have smooth, yet full tone.

    to NJPOLKER:
    had I stayed in NJ we could have been neighbors; grew up in Warren twsp! Do you feel a Belles or Halfler XL280 can't cut it? Maybe either alone won't. But together, bi-amping the A7s, Polk style or for real... ...I have several EXOs to do it right.

    To MAX, NJ, et al:

    I've had Belles' for years; these have an awesome bottom; used them to drive subs*. DIYaudio thread on Haflers say the XL280 have a sweeter mid-topend than the Belles. I believe in quality ICs and wire to a point. I believe the research from the 'Capacitor shootout**' can & will produce more satifying & less pricy results than high dollar ICs & wire
    * chk my sig, I'm using one to drive my current sub
    ** been there before! w/1 inexpensive replacement back in the '80s

    I don't want to start cutting* OCF 12 or some 10 gage untill after completing my new equipment rack. I'll then rearrange and add the remaining amp(s). My current amoire is maxed out. I can then get serious about bi/tri-amping, rewiring the A7s**, etc. Along the way I can execute the filter*** upgrades to the A3 portion****.
    * I like to keep speaker wire runs as short as posible
    ** speakers are wired w/cheap, thin wire & cheap caps
    *** bypassing the LP filter maybe all the A7s need. 125hz LP filters suck up alot of power
    **** the A7 top half is an A3

    Carefully check my signature for equipment/amps. I plan to add one or more XL280s for the L/R (A7s). Then I'll use the Belles* to drive just those A7 "subs." Even though I have a sub** I want to get the L/R highs/mid/bass balanced. I don't believe in using subs to "fix a bass" shortcoming.
    * depending upon impedence I may use 1 Belles per channel
    ** though it's "gettin' it done," upgrade to DSW PRO 600 pending

    thank you all for your patience/reading this far. In a separate post I'll post my experience with rewiring speakers as I've gotten long winded in this one.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited April 2010
    Here's 2 sucessful experiences that confirm "size does matter"

    My EXPERIENCE on gage is simple: BIGGER IS BETTER!!. I've told these stories many times, but untill recently, not on-line.

    Experience 1: a pair of speakers that I paid $650 in 1980. About 6 months after I got them I decided to rewire them w/some leftover* 12 ga Monster Cable. Did one cabinet. Reconnected it to my system w/the other the other speaker still stock. Had to adjust balance ctrl between 10 & 11 o'clock to "balance" the modest volume setting. when I did the other speaker the "balance" problem went away.
    * had same between the amp and speakers

    Experience 2: about 10 years later, had a pair of subs with 2 12s in each, one driver daisy-chained to the other. They came hard wired w/about 12' each of 10 ga Monster cable. I EXO'd @ 110 hz, connected to a Belles Series I power amp. 6 months later I decided to "rewire" them. In a nutshell, I cut the cable in half, giving each driver its own connection. Yeah that right-twice as thick, half as long. Had to make a signifcant change to XO LP output setting because EVERYTHING sounded fat & heavy.

    Experience 2 fortified my belief in experience 1. I plan to rewire all my HT speakers given time & bi-amp the LCR channels.

    So to anyone that preaches wire size doesn't matter... ...you best plan to take 30 years to change my mind! And it will be a hard sell!"
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited April 2010
    to solidsqual:

    "I'm just pumped how I've tweaked my 9s."

    What did you do??
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited April 2010
    Replaed the Polk Jumpers w/18* ga OFC, yesterday. Very slight softening of highs. Along the way delighted over the bottom posts connected to "subs."
    * will replace w/AR 12 ga OFC pending bi-amping

    Before Church this am used some CRANKED UP Southern Gospel to wakeup the kids! As I move around the house, I realized my HT room* is a little small as I had no trouble picking out the bass** work in other parts of the house, was impressed w/ their extended bottom end.
    * approxametly 16' squared?
    ** BTW I play bass

    all for now
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited April 2010
    Talked to Polk Tech spt today. Learned the subs are 4 ohm drivers wired in parallel. Now to get time to study the mid/sub XO to bypass both to bi-amp...
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited April 2010
    I ment 2 4 ohm drivers in series, not parallel. Sorry for the mistake!
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited April 2010
    Upgraded to AR 12ga OFC last weekend; have 100+ hours on them since starting this thread. Listened to the same Donald Fagen/Steely Dan tracks the first time I cranked them up the day after they arrived about 5 weeks ago. They are noticably softer w/reduced brightness at the same (loud!) volume levels.

    Couldn't make time to do full blown mid/tweet bi-amp Wednesday night. Did make time to do the following to gain more insight for cause on edgy brightness:

    Ran thru a lively Steely Dan track 4 times. (Kid Charlemenge)
    1. Right side w/the mid only, full range, no filtering; left side as Polk built it with a pillow over the tweeter: little difference; right side fractionally softer

    2. right side-4 order active LP @ 2.2K*; left-same. Big difference; w-a-y smoother & cleaner.

    3. Right side @ 2.8K*; left: as above. As clean, etc w/ more top end (of course)

    4. Right side @ 3.5K*; left: as above. As clean, etc still more top (of course)
    * Polk's site has them @ 2.7K 12dB, HP & LP...


    May run the above mid test again at higher freqencies, up to 6K for grins.

    Will try same test on tweeter alone starting @ 2K stopping @ 6K w/active HP next.

    Then full blown bi-amp w/both channel to confirm above results.

    Meanwhile my conclusions*:
    Posibly the mid/tweeter over lapped (cascaded?)
    Cone breakup near XO frequency w/ passive filter?
    Either upgrade caps or bi-amp the mid/tweeter.
    * premature maybe

    Stay tuned. Cheers tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited April 2010
    No mic or measuring software?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited May 2010
    The above was a quick test. I used duct tape to hold the wire onto the driver terminals, ran the wire through the port below the mid.
    No mic or measuring software?
    Thnx for your help/interest, & the tip/reminder. Would an RTA* w/mic** qualify as software/mic? Its all I have. Wish I had time to set it up. Will make time to use same next test. Thnx U in advance for any advice as I'm entering "unchartered territory" for me.
    * contained w/in my sub EQ, Behringer DEQ 2496 ** Behringer ECM 8000

    Have similar post on another thread you've replied to: Thread for the passive XO gurus (RTi A7)

    The first of next round of tests, I will connect one channel to a Hafler XL280, w/the other connected to the Belles*, and listen to those same tracks. For the rest of the tests I posted earlier, I'll use the Hafler** exclusively.
    * I used the Belles: 1. because I used it for the previous LR speakers 2. for it's great bottom end.
    ** I wanted Haflers across the front all along. Wkg 50 hours a week & dad of 6 keeps me busy. Pulled one out of storage today. When new rack is finished will use 1 Belles per channel to drive the subs!

    I doubt I'll have time "to play" tomorow. Wife's SUV needs a battery; house AC has blocked drain tube.

    stay tuned. cheers tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2010
    I'm not familiar with using the DEQ as a mic preamp. That mic is fine though, I have the same one.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited May 2010
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited May 2010
    Ooops! It had a built-in RTA plus many other processors.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,416
    edited May 2010
    \

    You need to come over my house, not sure what SDA's you have had your ears on.....As it is said we all hear things differently. the main thing is to enjoy what we have..:cool:

    He has his ears on HIS SDA's, and even if he had them on YOUR SDA's he would probably hear the same thing:D;):p.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 ch. 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony Bravia KDL-40R510C TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Boston VR-920 Center Channel, SVS NSD-12 SB12 Subwoofer, Polk DSW 400 Subwoofer, Polk FXi-3 Surround Speakers
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited May 2010
    Cfriz

    I'm having trouble getting how this relates to RTi A7 edgy brightness.
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,621
    edited May 2010
    They're softer, less fatiguing these days.

    RTA* testing several weeks ago showed a broad 3-5dB* peak around 10K. Life has kept me from posting results.
    * low res display

    Still commited to bi/triamping as final, no-cost* solution. May pursue passive mid/tweet XO cap upgrade**-$ & which brand to buy, stumbling block
    * for me anyway
    ** purely out of curiousity
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED
    Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro
    Samsung BDP, Dish Rcvr, Xbox, Phillips CD chgr

    Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; CC outside
    BJC 10 ga - LCR mids, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline - LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered

    LR: tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; M&T - 981
    CC: Rotel RB981 -> bi-amped CSi A6
    5 Audio Pro Subs: LFE & CC - B1.39; all others - Evidence
    Surrounds: Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3
    Power Conditioning & Distribution:
    3 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 4 Furman Miniport 20s
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