Help... What's wrong with my setup?

LILDRAGON

Hi, here's a list of all the audio components I am running.

Polk MOMO MM124 (.88cu sealed box)
Rockford Fosgate RFX9300 Head Unit
Rockford Fosgate Power 1000bd Amp (500RMS 4ohms)
4ga Lightning Audio Power and Ground (60 amp fuse)
Stinger Dream Series RCA 4 meters


I have my amp gain set to 3/4. Is that safe since my deck is suppose to put out 5volts. In order for me to even feel the bass slightly I have to turn the SUM on the deck to max (suppose to be a volumn control for the subwoofer). The bass gain is turned all the way down and I am not using the PUNCH feature of the deck (loudness button) My freq is set to 90Hz. Is there anything I am over looking? Thanks. I really don't want to blow this sub this time. Out of money! Any and all suggestions appreciated.

PoweredByDodge

u can dial up your amp's bass boost to around1/5 - 1/4

haveing your sum out set to full is normal -- its not a boost -- its like a fader... with it all the way up its as if u had it on a normal full out.

u can dial u your bass on the head a knotch or two if u want without worrying baout anything.

[Deleted User]

What kind of car do you have and how do you have the sub facing (into corner of trunk, into seat,etc.)? It's possible that your backseat is drowning out half of your bass.

LILDRAGON

Hi my sub is seated back against the back seats. Also facing the rear of the trunk. Isn't that okay?

[Deleted User]

That is how it usually should be, but every car is different. Try moving it around to different locations in the trunk. Also, what kind of car is it(hatchback,sedan,coupe)and does it have a fold-down rear seat? Check to see if the box is sealed good, too. A leak could hinder performance.

PoweredByDodge

my buddy has a ford focus hatch w/ two old style momo 10's -- oddly enough.. if the subs aren't facing forward at about a 20 degree angle upwards, it sounds like doo doo.... but as long as their aimed as such -- and both moved together toward the center of the car, it hits pretty good.

proof positive -- every car is weird in its own way.

LILDRAGON

Okay i'll try to move the sub around in the trunk. Its a 98 Honda Accord 4 door. Yes I tried to seal the box up pretty well. Does any one know where I can bring my car to test my performance of my system? And how much does it cost?

PoweredByDodge

SPL ?

if you want someone to mic your car and check how high you'll peg on the db meter -- most shops will have a mic and will do it for nothing.

however there are many things to consider...

1- there are only two good mics on the market at this time. one is by B&k and is considered the standard. The other is by Audiocontrol and is a few db's softer (you'll hit one or two higher than on the B&K). Termpro is supposed to be "the stuff" and is going to be used by dbdrag soon i think. anything short of hte audiocontrol however will probably not be a "true" rating. crap mics and crap meters dont give you an honest reading.

2- many shops may lower sensitivty on the mic and thus throw it out of accuracy so as to make your gear that you bught somewhere else "appear" to suck... while they'll dial up the sensitivity for people who just dropped 3 grand in their shop and they want to make said people feel good about dropping that 3 grand.

3- dont judge your car by your spl rating... some of the most beautiful and best systems ever built may never break 135 db's but will put some of the 150 db boomers to shame with sound quality and imaging. overall performance, quality, durability and lifelike imaging of sound is much more important.

LILDRAGON

Hey I am thinking of selling my Rockford 1000bd. I have these amps in concideration. Also please let me know if there are any other that might be well suited for 1 MM124. Thanks

Cadence Z9000 $260 800RMS (is this to much power? blow?)
HiFonics Zeus Z6000 $215 600RMS

Also do you think these will do a better job than my current amp?

PoweredByDodge

I like the Cadence...

THD is a FRACTION of the fosgate you've got now... as a result, relative damping will be higher.

the cadence is better looking, more power to your sub, a better class (AB versus D), and all in all, i think just over 250 is a steal for that amp.

that's my pick.

far as how much power... cadence rates @ 14.4 -- so just keep the gain maybe a hair back from what you'd put it at normally... aim for something around 650.

for a rough test... get a voltmeter, put it on the speaker leads set for AC -- play a 60 hertz bass note or a heavy heavey heavy rap track... long as you're not above 13 volts at the speaker terminals, u shoud be fine

LILDRAGON

Hey thanks for all the help so far... Is there any possible chance my Rockford 1000bd is not putting out enough power to my MM124? It does not sound like its at it's full potential at all. Any other amps you have in mind. What do you think about US Amps?

sntnsupermen131

that bd is more than enough for that speaker
i personally havent "heard" us amp amplifiers but ive heard good things about them
pbd will know more about those amps than i do it seems like
-Cody

PoweredByDodge

like cody said the 1000bd is more than enough for that sub... the only advantage youd' have by switching is that you'd be able to get a smaller and cheaper amp -- so make some money off the sake of the RF ... since if u only ahve one momo udont need a big 1000bd.

far as usamps --- 600 series will do nicely but its gonna cost you around $500 on ebay.

i really think the cadence is the way to go if u're swappin out amps.

goingganzo

pulling the sub away from the seat will increase your bass if you have it 2-5 in away from the seat you will increase your thump. or you can get a better sub. like a stryhe av15 or av12 with 23mm of x max and you can blow away the momo. it is a good sub but if you want more output. ps you can get the 15 for 165. let me put it this way i have 2 of the av15 in my home and they can out gun my car any day. and even when i had 4 12

PoweredByDodge

that's not saying much though -- I could take a couple of polk EX II series subs and throw them in vented boxes in my house and with enough clean power in the right room I would blow the living hell out of a lot of cars. reason being -- vehicles have vastly different acoustics than homes do -- this is one of hte many reasons that a 60 watt home audio satellite speaker (5" woofer 1.5" tweet) with 50-60 watts on it will go "head to head" with a 125 watt car 6x9 with its rated 125 on it.

the car is a tough place to put audio -- it really is brutal -- and car speakers must go above and beyond the call of duty to produce good quality sound at loud volumes... (or even to produce loud volumes at all)... one of many reasons why car audio speakers used to be kind of ****... they had to be tough enough to last in the car, which by nature in former years meant that they had to suck **** compared to home audio... but ever since the advent of the polk DB series, that has been no longer true -- DB's were heralded as "home speakers for your car"... only they were built like tanks and I'm betting if you threw 3 sets of db 6.5" coaxials and two db 12's into a pair of home audio custom built towers with separate chambers and have somebody build you an amp big enough to push it all, I think it would sound "fair" to "very good" and blow the doors and windows right out of your house.

Actually though, I think car audio has gone a step further in a good way -- surrounds are tough, air tight, and the cones are rigid as granite. I really wish more moderately priced home audio subwoofers would take the cue and be constructed like brick shithouses like the car subs.

I cant speak on polk as I'm not real familar with the home product but Infinity / Vega / Mtx / Yamaha / Onkyo all make the junkiest goddamn home audio subwoofers i've ever seen.

I swear to god when i come into the cash, i'm going to find myself an amp that is 1000 x 2 at 2 ohms and anther that is 100 x 8 ohms... then i'm going to get a nice Carver preamp... a good rack setup, and build a pair of dual subwoofer floor modules --- two momo 12's or IDQ 12's or something comparable. a decent sq sub... and then do my research and find the best 2 channel audio satellites or floor standing loudspeakers i can.

goingganzo

check out http://www.stryke.com/
Fs: 21Hz <

---

this is a low number compared to most car subs
Qms: 4.41
Qes: .399
Qts: .366
Vas: 88 L
Re: 2.97 ohm
Z: 4 ohm
BL: 15 Tm
Cms: .25 mm/N
Mms: 228 g
Pe: 500W
1W/1m: 85.5dB
2.83V: 89.5dB
Xmax: 23 mm <

---

this is a a very highnumber compared to most subs.
Xsus: 30 mm
Sd: 498 sq cm
Vd: 2.33 L


the reason y most car subs suck in ht is they have very little x max and a very high fs. with car subs can rely in cabin gain to go low. i mean sub-sonic the suround is sweet i have 2 of the 15 in my ht. and i am getting a 12 for my car. i am putting it in a 2cube box tuned to 20hz.
or if you want 1 of the 3 best subs on the market get a http://www.acoustic-visions.com/tumult.htm
you throw 2000 wants on it and it will put out about the same as 3 15.


most of tohes ported subs are tuned high to get the boom.