Is it possible for us to primer and paint the Veneer on M10's?

RandyWilliamson
RandyWilliamson Posts: 178
edited June 2009 in Vintage Speakers
I know there are some threads on refinishing..removing and replacing with new veneering and then staining....but honestly it seems like a lot of work which I am not necessarily up for..

I'd like to "scuff" up the current veneer..primer it....then spray it...I know it's not the best...but it would limp me by until later in which case I would pay someone to refinish it for me properly.....by the way under what name would someone skilled in this art should I look under in the yellow pages?

I guess if it really can't be done this way..then I will have to wait.
But I figure if the surface can be made to take primer then paint will tack on to primer fairly nicely...making for a good temporary solution in making them match my other furniture.
Cool stuff: Adcom GFA-555, GFP-710, Oppo BDP-83, Monitor 10's w/RDO198s, rebuilt and modded XO: Sonicap/Mundorf topside, Daytons Low.
Benq W5000

"Leaning back like a maxwell tape commercial listening to pure polk bliss"
Post edited by RandyWilliamson on
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  • jimmydep
    jimmydep Posts: 1,305
    edited June 2009
    Were the speakers damaged?

    You could try furniture refinishers or I think a custom kitchen cabinet company might be cheaper. Depending upon the finish some painters might be able to do it also.
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  • nikolas812
    nikolas812 Posts: 2,915
    edited June 2009
    RandyWilliamson wrote: »
    I know there are some threads on refinishing..removing and replacing with new veneering and then staining....but honestly it seems like a lot of work which I am not necessarily up for..

    I'd like to "scuff" up the current veneer..primer it....then spray it...I know it's not the best...but it would limp me by until later in which case I would pay someone to refinish it for me properly.....by the way under what name would someone skilled in this art should I look under in the yellow pages?

    I guess if it really can't be done this way..then I will have to wait.
    But I figure if the surface can be made to take primer then paint will tack on to primer fairly nicely...making for a good temporary solution in making them match my other furniture.




    The answer is yes.


    Make sure to clean the wood VERY good before scuffing them. I use alcohol and paper towels. This will take any oils or grease out that could potential stop the primer from adhering to the wood. Then clean them again after you scuff them.


    If you need more advise let me know.




    Nick
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  • RandyWilliamson
    RandyWilliamson Posts: 178
    edited June 2009
    I am sorry for my mix up...they are not wood veneered it's that plastic or vinyl veneer.
    I just don't have the time right now to peel it off and go through the ordeal of putting on new veneer...I mean unless it maybe comes off easy...and I think I did see some wood veneer at lowes the other day.

    The problem is I am also scared to peel it off and take off the wood substrate underneath then have to deal with repairing....I just would rather paint over what's there. for now at least.
    Cool stuff: Adcom GFA-555, GFP-710, Oppo BDP-83, Monitor 10's w/RDO198s, rebuilt and modded XO: Sonicap/Mundorf topside, Daytons Low.
    Benq W5000

    "Leaning back like a maxwell tape commercial listening to pure polk bliss"
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  • nikolas812
    nikolas812 Posts: 2,915
    edited June 2009
    RandyWilliamson wrote: »
    I am sorry for my mix up...they are not wood veneered it's that plastic or vinyl veneer.
    I just don't have the time right now to peel it off and go through the ordeal of putting on new veneer...I mean unless it maybe comes off easy...and I think I did see some wood veneer at lowes the other day.

    The problem is I am also scared to peel it off and take off the wood substrate underneath then have to deal with repairing....I just would rather paint over what's there. for now at least.


    Vinyl, plastic, veneer, what ever.


    It should work. Just clean and scuff well. So the primer will adhere.




    Nick
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  • RandyWilliamson
    RandyWilliamson Posts: 178
    edited June 2009
    Nikolas,

    that's great news!!! what grit sandpaper would u recommend? I was think maybe 320? unless that's too fine?

    After primering should I re-sand finer? or just washup and spray?

    Thanks for your help.
    Cool stuff: Adcom GFA-555, GFP-710, Oppo BDP-83, Monitor 10's w/RDO198s, rebuilt and modded XO: Sonicap/Mundorf topside, Daytons Low.
    Benq W5000

    "Leaning back like a maxwell tape commercial listening to pure polk bliss"
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,815
    edited June 2009
    Paint over vinyl? Yeah, that's not the best idea, although there are paints formulated to spray over plastics, so use one of them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • rayslifecycle
    rayslifecycle Posts: 511
    edited June 2009
    Definitely not the best solution to paint over the vinyl.
    F1 nut is right in that there are specific paints for vinyl and plastic......

    How badly are they damaged? - pics please.......

    would a simple piece of fabric draped over the top...........
    - not obstructing the grill cloth - just the top and sides -
    be enough to accommodate your furniture matching requirements?

    Just temporarily until you have them refinished.......

    BTW _ the substrate for the vinyl is MDF - a very good/stable material to paint......or veneer.......
    Try using a hairdryer to help soften the vinyl before peeling........
    http://rayslifecycle.blogspot.com/
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  • jimmydep
    jimmydep Posts: 1,305
    edited June 2009
    clarknova_666 wrote: »
    BTW _ the substrate for the vinyl is MDF - a very good/stable material to paint......or veneer.......
    Try using a hairdryer to help soften the vinyl before peeling........

    I've removed the vinyl veneer on other pieces with a heat gun, just heat a 6" square area and start pulling slowly moving the heat gun to a new area, if it begins to tear try alittle less heat.
    After you remove the vinyl sand the wood smooth with 150 grit, prime and paint.....or buy a sheet of wood veneer some contact cement and a veneer trimming router bit and re-cover the speaker, It's not that hard to do and your already putting in X amount of hours anyway.

    Jimmy
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  • nikolas812
    nikolas812 Posts: 2,915
    edited June 2009
    RandyWilliamson wrote: »
    Nikolas,

    that's great news!!! what grit sandpaper would u recommend? I was think maybe 320? unless that's too fine?

    After primering should I re-sand finer? or just washup and spray?

    Thanks for your help.





    If it is a sandable primer. Then yes. If it is a sandable primer and you can apply multiple coats. I would start with a 220 grit first. Then primer. Let the primer cure according to what ever the can says. Then sand with 320 and prime again. I would repeat the last step again just for good measure.

    Then you should be ready for color....


    I would also talk to someone where ever you buy you paint and primer. And let them know what your doing and ask if everything is compatible. I've seen people use one type of spray can primer and use a different brand for the color. And the primer wrinkled on them..

    I have done this sort of stuff before with good results. But never with spray can stuff. All with a gun and automotive paints and primers.

    That said.

    Please consult you hardware guy first.





    Nick
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  • RandyWilliamson
    RandyWilliamson Posts: 178
    edited June 2009
    Nick,

    Funny u say autobody gun and paint...i got a brand new devilbiss gfgplus hvlp never been shot..and a seperate cheapy gun for primer...was supposed to be both fired to do a practice trial on an older car I have laying around but been putting that off too.

    I got some knowledge in paint compatability and sticking to one brand so I know exactly what u mean. I'm thinking I may just breakout the cheapy gun and de-virginize it for this project...u spraying a clear coat after base too :) ?? I gotta imagine you'd get one incredible lustre...

    At this stage tho...we're talking same amount of work as peeling and reveneering...

    Thanks clarck for the heads up on the MDF I'll be looking that up right now.

    Fellas they're not damaged...I just want them to match the new shelf that's going up.
    Cool stuff: Adcom GFA-555, GFP-710, Oppo BDP-83, Monitor 10's w/RDO198s, rebuilt and modded XO: Sonicap/Mundorf topside, Daytons Low.
    Benq W5000

    "Leaning back like a maxwell tape commercial listening to pure polk bliss"
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  • nikolas812
    nikolas812 Posts: 2,915
    edited June 2009
    Heres a little something from not too long ago.:cool:



    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71657












    Nick
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited June 2009
    I can't speak for anyone else's vintage Polks, but mine are all made of plain old, garden variety particle board, not MDF. Particle board is much less stable than MDF because it's just wood chips formed with glue, pressure & heat. If you do decide to paint, try using a high build, surfacing primer that will give a great base for color coats after sanding. (I usually go to at least a 600 grit wet sanding) If you do wet sand, don't get water on the P'board or MDF, whichever yours is made of, because they will both swell up just like a dry sponge!:eek: Wear a respirator!!!!!:)
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  • RandyWilliamson
    RandyWilliamson Posts: 178
    edited June 2009
    nikolas812 wrote: »
    Heres a little something from not too long ago.:cool:



    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=71657

    Nick

    Wow dude that was an unbeleivable job...absolutely gorgeous work.....I'm going to ship you my camaro some day...hahaha....that was one truly hilarious thread too...lots of comedy....

    I'm a two bit amateur who's never fired those guns onto the little old corrolla I got out back so nah in foresight I'm not going to fire those guns onto my M10's as my first practice job...(yes I'd rather the Corolla suffer that humiliation)...I may go with compatible spray as u said..or just leave them intact until I can afford to take them somewhere.(there's spray clear coat out there btw so I am rather tempted)

    You've got a great skillset and it's one I been trying to get around to learning myself...but I don't have a booth either....although on the right not windy day I hear great things about curing outside.

    Thanks for the tips...and thanks for the MDF announcement...it's impregnated with formaldehyde so a respirator either way is a must!!!!
    Cool stuff: Adcom GFA-555, GFP-710, Oppo BDP-83, Monitor 10's w/RDO198s, rebuilt and modded XO: Sonicap/Mundorf topside, Daytons Low.
    Benq W5000

    "Leaning back like a maxwell tape commercial listening to pure polk bliss"
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