Are Pre-Amp's really that good?
Conradicles
Posts: 6,081
Guys and Gals, I keep reading and hearing about how big of a difference a good Pre can make.
How does a rookie like me learn to shop for Pre-amps?
Are numbers and specs good to look for, or should I just trust positive reviews?
Thanks to all.:)
How does a rookie like me learn to shop for Pre-amps?
Are numbers and specs good to look for, or should I just trust positive reviews?
Thanks to all.:)
Post edited by Conradicles on
Comments
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First synergy is a ****. Everyone who has been around for a while knows my slight fetish with Adcom amps. They were commonly teamed with mid to lower level Adcom Pre's. This gave the "Adcom Amps" an unfair labeling as being grainy. The pre sets the flavor more than the amp in a lot of cases. The amp amplifies the signal of the Pre. Crap in is crap out. I am loving my custom DAC and passive pre setup. It has been the best in my system so far. George brought over a sweet tubed pre to Jerry's and that has been my favorite so far. Now that same pre on his Carver Amazings did not do it for me. Reading reviews online is a crap shoot at best. If you are going tube all I can say is try to demo it. Tube synergy is tougher than SS synergy. Also when swapping Pre's different wires behave differently. On My system the Shotgun S3's sounded very good on the mids. On Jerry's my cables sounded better than the Shotguns. I talked to George a little bit today and he said that my cables worked better on his latest setup than his others. I would stick around and watch what others are doing. Are you thinking SS, passive, or tube?Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
The pre-amp is a pretty critical component, at least that is what I have learned in my most recent audio journeys. It's the hub that is going to filter all the components with its sound signature. That's one of the reasons I like tube pre's, I can do a little tweaking via rolling in different tubes.DKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
The pre-amp is a pretty critical component, at least that is what I have learned in my most recent audio journeys. It's the hub that is going to filter all the components with its sound signature. That's one of the reasons I like tube pre's, I can do a little tweaking via rolling in different tubes.
TAAAA-DAAAAAA!!!!!!
Ben has some good points as well.
Eric. I have a few pre-amps lying around the house and not earning their keep (dishes, laundry, rent..etc.)
Say the word.
Russ -
Save yourself the aggravation and buy an integrated amp.HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50 LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub
"God grooves with tubes." -
Are you thinking SS, passive, or tube?
1st going to try SS (although I have been looking at some little tube gems on the gon that are not completely out of my price range).
Thanks Ben! -
I have a few pre-amps lying around the house and not earning their keep (dishes, laundry, rent..etc.)
Say the word.
Russ
Very cool Russ. I'll send you a PM, maybe I can rent 1 or 2 for a couple weeks and have some fun. -
Conradicles wrote: »Guys and Gals, I keep reading and hearing about how big of a difference a good Pre can make.
How does a rookie like me learn to shop for Pre-amps?
Thanks to all.:)
You go to Audiogon and buy a Manley Stingray.
RT1 -
Yes, the pre is critical. I basically sets the sound for the system and can have a larger impact on the final sound than other components. Pre's comes in all shapes and sizes and are one of the hardest components in the chain to remain neutral. It takes alot o care and proper design many times with expensive components to remain neutral.
It also depends on what your needs are. Simpler is ALWAYS better. A vol. control, bal. control mininal switching and a power button. If you need complex switching or tone controls and fancy contour circuits, etc..............the sound will be quite compromised until you get into the mega buck pre's. Everything in the signal path will color the final output...........good or bad.
I've auditioned many pre's in my travels mostly in the sub $2000 range and they all sounded completely different.......night and day. Experimentaion is key to find the right synergy you prefer.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Thanks H9, good info.
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In my opinion unless you go ultra cheap or ultra expensive on a SS unit then tubes are the best "deal" on a preamp.
madmaxVinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
Ben:
In my experience with Adcom amps and preamps of the 1980's, I'd say the amps were the guilty party when it came to graininess. Current models I don't have experience with.Review Site_ (((AudioPursuit)))
Founder/Publisher Affordable$$Audio 2006-13.
Former Staff Member TONEAudio
2 Ch. System
Amplifiers: Parasound Halo P6 pre, Vista Audio i34, Peachtree amp500, Adcom GFP-565 GFA-535ii, 545ii, 555ii
Digital: SimAudio HAD230 DAC, iMac 20in/Amarra,
Speakers: Paradigm Performa F75, Magnepan .7, Totem Model 1's, ACI Emerald XL, Celestion Si Stands. Totem Dreamcatcher sub
Analog: Technics SL-J2 w/Pickering 3000D, SimAudio LP5.3 phono pre
Cable/Wires: Cardas, AudioArt, Shunyata Venom 3 -
reeltrouble1 wrote: »you go to audiogon and buy a manley stingray.
Rt1"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
reeltrouble1 wrote: »You go to Audiogon and buy a Manley Stingray.
Very nice, but a wee bit out of my price range.
It is quite "Manly":D -
Yes, the pre is critical. I basically sets the sound for the system and can have a larger impact on the final sound than other components. Pre's comes in all shapes and sizes and are one of the hardest components in the chain to remain neutral. It takes alot o care and proper design many times with expensive components to remain neutral.
It also depends on what your needs are. Simpler is ALWAYS better. A vol. control, bal. control mininal switching and a power button. If you need complex switching or tone controls and fancy contour circuits, etc..............the sound will be quite compromised until you get into the mega buck pre's. Everything in the signal path will color the final output...........good or bad.
I've auditioned many pre's in my travels mostly in the sub $2000 range and they all sounded completely different.......night and day. Experimentaion is key to find the right synergy you prefer.
H9
How can a pre have the largest impact on the final sound & at the same time remain neutral? It's either adding it's own flavor to the signal or simply passing the signal unaltered (as a pre should do). These contradictions have always made me wonder....what actually is the pre's duty???? add flavor or not?"2 Channel & 11.2 HT "Two Channel:Magnepan LRSSchiit Audio Freya S - SS preConsonance Ref 50 - Tube preParasound HALO A21+ 2 channel ampBluesound NODE 2i streameriFi NEO iDSD DAC Oppo BDP-93KEF KC62 sub Home Theater:Full blown 11.2 set up. -
the pre should taste like cardboard.
RT1 -
Conradicles wrote: »Guys and Gals, I keep reading and hearing about how big of a difference a good Pre can make.
How does a rookie like me learn to shop for Pre-amps?
Are numbers and specs good to look for, or should I just trust positive reviews?
Thanks to all.:)
numbers,specs and what others say are all good BUT
trust your ears.......I have myself liking the sound of equipment that others have not liked. -
pearsall001 wrote: »How can a pre have the largest impact on the final sound & at the same time remain neutral? It's either adding it's own flavor to the signal or simply passing the signal unaltered (as a pre should do). These contradictions have always made me wonder....what actually is the pre's duty???? add flavor or not?
Exactly, notice how in my orignal post I said CAN. No component is truly 100% exactly neutal and frankly I'm not sure we would them to be. My pre is very neutral in active mode, and dead neutral (just passing the signal to the vol. pot) in passive and depending on the recording the passive CAN sound dry and flat and then on other recordings it sounds superb.
The higher up the ladder you go......the more neutral you seem too find the pre-amp. But be careful waht you wish for not everyone likes their music so neutral and in the end we WILL ALWAYS be at the mercy of the recordings.
Having a great sounding dedicated pre is usually what most people find makes the most difference when moving from using thier AVR as a pre for a 2ch set-up.......even more than adding an amp to an AVR in some cases.
The pre-amp is a very underated component in the audio chain. People need to take care in choosing wisely as it CAN have a large impact on the sound."Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
reeltrouble1 wrote: »the pre should taste like cardboard.
RT1
Mine has a slightly metallic taste, with a hint of aluminum and copperDKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
Mine tastes like petroleum jelly...................:eek:."Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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Mine has a slightly metallic taste, with a hint of aluminum and copper
hhmmmmmmm, I have heard this can occur in re-badged Pass designs. I recommend something with a sharp crunch, glass tastes better than sand.
RT1 -
Exactly, notice how in my orignal post I said CAN. No component is truly 100% exactly neutal and frankly I'm not sure we would them to be. My pre is very neutral in active mode, and dead neutral (just passing the signal to the vol. pot) in passive and depending on the recording the passive CAN sound dry and flat and then on other recordings it sounds superb.
The higher up the ladder you go......the more neutral you seem too find the pre-amp. But be careful waht you wish for not everyone likes their music so neutral and in the end we WILL ALWAYS be at the mercy of the recordings.
Having a great sounding dedicated pre is usually what most people find makes the most difference when moving from using thier AVR as a pre for a 2ch set-up.......even more than adding an amp to an AVR in some cases.
The pre-amp is a very underated component in the audio chain. People need to take care in choosing wisely as it CAN have a large impact on the sound.
Still struggling with the multiquote function,,, Brock says something in the 2nd paragraph,take heed,, about nuetrality,, took me awhile to work thru that aspect of my system (personally) Good advice.JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut) -
Mine tastes like petroleum jelly...................:eek:.
bro you are wide open on that one, take immediate cover.
RT1 -
After experiencing it myself I know preamps can make a difference in sound. I recently purchased a B&K amp from suckstobeme, I brought the Haydn's over and it sounded great.
I get home hook it up the Harman/Kardon receiver, and it didn't sound good at all, it had a harsher sound. He's letting me tryout a Parasound P/SP-1000 which made a big difference the harshness is gone, and currently my best set up to date.
I am going to try to get a good tube preamp one day.Setup:
2 Channel: Vienna Acoustics Mozart Grand, T+A P 1230R, Primare SPA21, Oppo BDP-105
PC: Vienna Acoustics Haydn Grand, Cambridge Azure 650A v2 , Peachtree iDAC, Denon DVD-3800BDCI -
I've noticed that the older the component, the more coloured the sound. Vintage Mac and Dynaco gear is very colored. Considering the quality of speakers that were available then, maybe that was a good thing.
But the lack of coloration can also be a bad thing. Combine a Cambridge CDP(pretty neutral IMO), passive preamp, and a Pass amp and you'll have the most transparent and sterile rig IMO. But that can also vary on speakers, cables, room, etc... As said here 1,000 times, it all comes down to synergy and every component is as important as the next in a rig."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche -
reeltrouble1 wrote: »hhmmmmmmm, I have heard this can occur in re-badged Pass designs. I recommend something with a sharp crunch, glass tastes better than sand.
RT1
Pure yummy Audio Research in the main 2 ch system! I thought the bits of glass were to keep your teeth clean :eek:
Tubes RuleDKG999
HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED
Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC -
reeltrouble1 wrote: »bro you are wide open on that one, take immediate cover.
RT1
It's been a crazy day...............so I thought I'd put that out there and see some of the responses ."Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
All components are important, and how they work together is a lottery ticket. For me though, the preamp has the biggest influence in the width and depth of the soundstage._________________________________________________
***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***
2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
SOPAThank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman -
Preamps are as important to the overall sound of the system as the source or loudspeakers are.I have owned several preamplifiers both SS and Tube and i prefer them to be fast and neutral over sweet and euphonic.what kind of budget are you working with and why may i ask do you want a SS preamp instead of one with tubes please dont fear tubes in a preamplifier because good small signal tubes will last for 10.000 hrs or more.thanks....WCW IIIRogue Audio stereo 100 tube amplifier - Lector Zoe preamplifier with 6H30 pi's
.Audience AU24SE speaker and ic cables- Chord Qutest DAC - Black Cat Silverstar II 75ohm digital cable-Tyler Acoustics Linbrook Signature system with large bass cabinets to accommodate 10" Seas magnesium woofers. -
W WALDECKER wrote: »what kind of budget are you working with
As of now, just trying to get my learn-on. I could not see myself spending over $350-$400 though, but who knows.
My kids keep me broke!:) -
I've known a given preamp to add dynamic excitement by matching the input/output impedances better than another preamp did while remaining neutral. And, to pass the signal without change is one tough thing to do, even for a passive.
madmaxVinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want...