LSi 15's - How power hungry ?

Posts: 25
edited May 2009 in Speakers
Hi everyone, I have read in many places about LSi's and power. I am considering purchasing these speakers and either an Onkyo TX-SR876 or a Yamaha RX-V1900. If you now/or have ever owned Lsi-15's, tell me, what if you run a powered sub - wouldn't this help out with the power issue, sending the deep lows through the LFE to the sub should lighten the load on your receivers amps alittle. I am also considering bi-amping them, running LSi's in a bi-amp configuration, after all, would send TWO amps of 130 to 140 watts to each of the LSi's woofer and mid/tweeter section, and then using the powered sub. Seems that this configuration could help out quite abit, OR, am I wrong in my thought processes here ? ? ? Would really appreiciate some help with this . Thank you in advance !
Post edited by Leon S. on

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  • Posts: 50,944
    edited May 2009
    You need to be absolutely sure that whatever AVR you go with is rated to drive 4 ohm speakers.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Posts: 13,415
    edited May 2009
    If you want to get the best out of the LSI's you need to budget for an amp of at least 200wpc @ 8ohms. If that isn't feasible get the RTIa's.

    All the Onkyo & Yamaha are going to do is RESTRICT what little power they are sending to the speakers to prevent them from overheating. If that fails, the receiver will shut down when it gets too hot.

    Welcome to Club Polk!
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • Posts: 26
    edited May 2009
    Leon S. wrote: »
    Hi everyone, I have read in many places about LSi's and power. I am considering purchasing these speakers and either an Onkyo TX-SR876 or a Yamaha RX-V1900. If you now/or have ever owned Lsi-15's, tell me, what if you run a powered sub - wouldn't this help out with the power issue, sending the deep lows through the LFE to the sub should lighten the load on your receivers amps alittle. I am also considering bi-amping them, running LSi's in a bi-amp configuration, after all, would send TWO amps of 130 to 140 watts to each of the LSi's woofer and mid/tweeter section, and then using the powered sub. Seems that this configuration could help out quite abit, OR, am I wrong in my thought processes here ? ? ? Would really appreiciate some help with this . Thank you in advance !

    Agree with the previous posts. I have the LSI'15's and when first purchased used an older Sony STRDA4ES to drive them. It was rated 90 watts per channel into 4 ohms. I never had the impedence switch set to 4ohms, I left it on 8. While this sounded good the Sony was pretty hot at the end of a 4 hour listening session. I bought an Emotiva LPA-1 and hooked it up to the pre-outs on the 4ES. I could not believe the difference! Soundstage, nuance, power, definition, the list could go on, all were better with the Emotiva amp. I would definitley recommend going with seperates if possible to drive the LSI's. You wont be disappointed. Good luck!

    Mick88
  • Posts: 205
    edited May 2009
    I've said it before............
    I run LSi9 mains and an LSiC center from my Onkyo 805. It runs all day, almost everyday, and barely gets warm. Movies are played at decent volumes too. The 876 should do just as well, as long as you don't close it in, so it can breathe. During initial setup of receiver, you'll be given the choice of setting up for 4 ohm speakers, or 6 ohm up to 16 ohm. If any speaker is 4 ohm, use that setting.

    External amps are nice if you can afford them, and like lots of gear hooked up to ooh & aah at, but it isn't necessary to get great sound, if you already have equipment that can handle the job. Don't mean to piss off people by saying this, but I usually do. If you can't afford an amp right away, enjoy the Onkyo until you can. :)
    Samsung HL61A750 LED DLP
    Onkyo TX-SR805 receiver
    Oppo BDP-83 blu ray player
    Polk Audio LSi9 front speakers
    Polk Audio LSiC center speaker
    Sony SS-MB100H rear speakers
    SVS PC12-NSD powered subwoofer
    Pioneer PL-514 turntable
    Logitech Harmony 628 Universal Remote
  • Posts: 13,284
    edited May 2009
    I remember hearing a pair of LSI-15s powered by a 1600 dollar Pioneer Elite pre ICE-amp. And the speakers just sounded muddy to me. NOT enough power, the Pioneer couldn't do them! It's not like they were bad but they didn't sound like the musical speaker that they are with the Pioneer and that surprised me. But also reaffirmed what a number of people are saying above. They need at least 200 watts each of good high current power.

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2009
    IIRC, they dip down to 3ohms.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Posts: 5,144
    edited May 2009
    The more power the better:cool:
    Linn AV5140 fronts
    Linn AV5120 Center
    Linn AV5140 Rears
    M&K MX-70 Sub for Music
    Odyssey Mono-Blocs
    SVS Ultra-13 Gloss Black:D
  • Posts: 1,301
    edited May 2009
    I know this has been said before, and I'm not trying to disagree with Cathy and others because the 200wpc advice is good generic advice and all, but there are many amps under 200wpc that will do the LSi series justice. For example, my Pass Labs X-150 at 150wpc @ 8ohms sounds significantly better to me than the 200wpc B&K Ref 200.5 that I previously owned.

    I don't disagree that saying "200wpc @ 8ohm" is a good blanket statement that will almost guarantee good results, but by no means is it the only way to achieve LSi greatness. A receiver just doesn't cut it though -- been there, tried that.
    Speakers: Polk LSi15
    Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
    Amp: Pass Labs X-150
    CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
    Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
    Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
    TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
    Cartridge:Denon DL-160
    Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH
  • Posts: 15,251
    edited May 2009
    My opinion on this subject is LSi speakers with an AVR are better than non-LSi speakers with an AVR, unless you get even better speakers instead. Speakers first. As the budget allows, add an amp. A minor caveat is do not waste your time with a low-end budget AVR and expect great results.

    I played 4 LSi15s and an LSiC for a few years with AVRs (Denon 3805, Sony 5000ES, Sony 7100ES) with no issues, and had hours of pleasure watching movies, and listening to music, with these speakers. Later, I purchased a Sunfire TGA-5400 and the sound, while great before, became even better. But, I am glad I did not deprive myself of the years of enjoyment I had with these speakers and an AVR.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
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    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • Posts: 584
    edited May 2009
    I recently played around using my Onk 875 to drive my LSi25s. Even without a separate amp the sound was still very pleasing. However, they are actually easier to drive than the 15s due to the powered subwoofer. As others have said, you must verify that the AVR is capable. In my case the manual clearly states
    "You can connect speakers with an impedance of
    between 4 and 16 ohms. If the impedance of any of the
    connected speakers is 4 ohms or more but less than 6,
    be sure to set the speaker impedance to 4 ohms (see
    page 45). If you use speakers with a lower impedance,
    and use the amplifier at high volume levels for a long
    period of time, the built-in amp protection circuit may
    be activated."
    If you cannot swing an amp for a long while, then you might consider either the 9s or 25s.
    MAIN: Polk Lsi9s; Polk PSW505; Lsic (in box); Onkyo SR-875; Parasound 2250; Cambridge Audio 740C; LG BD370
    OFFICE: Polk Lsi7; REL T3; HK 3490; CA 840W; Onkyo C-S5VL
    BENCHED: CS20; OWM3s
  • Posts: 1,060
    edited May 2009
    I don't know about the Onk 876 but the 806 is severely limited into 4 ohms. Make sure you check it out. I have an 805 which is far superior to the 806 for 4 ohms. My LSi 15's sounded just fine to me when driven by the 805. However when the sound got turned up fairly loud it turned to crap.

    I got an Emotiva RPA-2. It definitely provides an advantage at low sound levels with detail and soundstage, but it really shines at higher volumes. I'm not talking about ear-splitting volumes here either. I'm just talking loud like when you really want to jam (even though it will go all the way to zero with very clear sound).

    I agree with Blue Fox. If you can't afford the amp now go ahead and get an AVR-only setup. But make it your plan to get an amp down the road.
    SystemLuxman L-590AXII Integrated Amplifier|KEF Reference 1 Loudspeakers|PS Audio Directream Jr|Sansui TU-9900 Tuner|TEAC A-6100 RtR|Nakamichi RX-202 Cassette
  • Posts: 5,273
    edited May 2009
    You can probably get a decent AVR with pre-outs AND and an amp for close to the price of the AVR's you mentioned. Look used, especially for the amp. There is an Adcom 545 in the flea market right now for $200. That amp with say a Yamaha 663 will do better than either of the AVR's you mentioned (IMO) and would cost less. I happily drove my 15's with a 545 for about a year until the upgrade bug got me.
    Things work out best for those who make the best of the way things work out.-John Wooden
  • Posts: 584
    edited May 2009
    I don't know about the Onk 876 but the 806 is severely limited into 4 ohms. Make sure you check it out. I have an 805 which is far superior to the 806 for 4 ohms. My LSi 15's sounded just fine to me when driven by the 805. However when the sound got turned up fairly loud it turned to crap.
    QUOTE]

    Jet, what happend to the 06 models? I've heard other people make comments about the power supply or something like that. Do you know if the specs have changed from 805 to 806 or just the real-world performance?
    MAIN: Polk Lsi9s; Polk PSW505; Lsic (in box); Onkyo SR-875; Parasound 2250; Cambridge Audio 740C; LG BD370
    OFFICE: Polk Lsi7; REL T3; HK 3490; CA 840W; Onkyo C-S5VL
    BENCHED: CS20; OWM3s
  • Posts: 991
    edited May 2009
    Leon S. wrote: »
    Hi everyone, I have read in many places about LSi's and power. I am considering purchasing these speakers and either an Onkyo TX-SR876 or a Yamaha RX-V1900. If you now/or have ever owned Lsi-15's, tell me, what if you run a powered sub - wouldn't this help out with the power issue, sending the deep lows through the LFE to the sub should lighten the load on your receivers amps alittle. I am also considering bi-amping them, running LSi's in a bi-amp configuration, after all, would send TWO amps of 130 to 140 watts to each of the LSi's woofer and mid/tweeter section, and then using the powered sub. Seems that this configuration could help out quite abit, OR, am I wrong in my thought processes here ? ? ? Would really appreiciate some help with this . Thank you in advance !

    Hi,
    My experience. I LSi series that is excellent. Facing problems of power. Using a Denon AVR-4308CI. It resolved after further testing without the use of an amplifier. What I did was remove the Denon DVD 1740. Use a Multichannel DVD 7.1 with ability to decode Dolby and DTS. Denon AVR-4308CI my performance with LSI was great. I recommend checking before you spend money if your source DVD is a good source.



    1) DENON AVR-4308CI: Advanced 7.1 CH/5.1+2 CH/ 3.1+2+2 CH A/V Home Theater /MultiMedia Multi-Source/Zone Receiver with Networking and WiFi/170 watts x 7 channels
    2) HITACHI P55T501. 55" HD1080 Plasma HDTV
    3) OPPO DV-980H 1080p Up-Converting Universal DVD Player with HDMI and 7.1CH Audio
    4) DENON DVD-2500BTCI: Blu-ray Disc™ DVD/CD Digital Player/Transport
    5) POLKAUDIO LSiC (Center speaker)
    6) POLKAUDIO LSi15 LEFT (Front speaker)
    7) POLKAUDIO LSi15 RIGHT (Front speaker)
    8) POLKAUDIO LSif/x LEFT (Surround speaker)
    9) POLKAUDIO LSif/x RIGHT (Surround speaker)
    10) SONY SA-WP16 ( Sub Woofer 2X200W)
  • Posts: 291
    edited May 2009
    Agree with all those that suggest external amps. Although my signature suggests it, I am awaiting the MPS-2 amp to drive my LSI's (LSiC and LSi7s also in transit from my local dealer). My LSi9s were previously driven by a Rotel RB991 200 watt 8 ohm / 300 watt 4 ohm amplifier, utilising the present Denon 3808 AVR. I have since sold that Rotel amp, awaiting the Emotiva MPS-2 7 Channel 200 watt 8 ohm / 300 watt 4 ohm amp (modules being modified for 240v application).

    Where you notice a difference with an external amp is when you DON'T have it anymore. Although the sound is still acceptable with my LSi9s through the Denon only, it is nowhere near as defined - especially at lower volume levels where the bass isn't as noticeable. I state the same applied for my RTi10s - an 8 ohm speaker and easier to drive, but capable of 300 watts, again the power of an amp was noticeable at both lower and higher volume levels.

    If curiosity gets the better of you and you have an external amp, by-pass your amp and run your LSis straight off of your AVR, and you will see what I mean - having an amp also minimises possible speaker damage. Purchasing an LSi system (or any 4 ohm speaker for that matter) almost guarantees an amp purchase of sufficient true power at the same time.

    LSi's are an investment and need to receive the power they deserve to sufficiently and efficiently drive them - you take short cuts and you will end up paying the price in the long term.

    Ciao for now :)
    Regards - Gaz from the land of Oz

    Main System
    Denon - AVC-4700H
    Emotiva - XPA-9
    Cambridge Audio - Azur 851C - CXUHD
    Polk Audio - Legend L800 - Legend L400 - Legend L900 - LSiM fx - OWM3
    SVS - PB1000 x 2
    Foxtel - iQ4
    Belkin - Pure AV PF40
    Sony K77A9G

    Front Room System
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  • Posts: 13,415
    edited May 2009
    Nice summary VXR8!
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • Posts: 2,309
    edited May 2009
    It's all about QUALITY power, not purely quantity. I've heard 200wpc units sound like crap and a 38wpc tube amp make the LSi's sound terrific. AVR receivers are a temporary stop-gap, that you can use as a preamp later as long as they have the pre outs, as others have suggested.

    Pass Labs makes a fine amp, as does Monarchy. You could also go used and grab an a Musical Fidelity int. amp that will make the 15's sound terrific. At some point upgrade the x-overs to really hear the potential of the LSi design.
    Review Site_ (((AudioPursuit)))
    Founder/Publisher Affordable$$Audio 2006-13.
    Former Staff Member TONEAudio
    2 Ch. System
    Amplifiers: Parasound Halo P6 pre, Vista Audio i34, Peachtree amp500, Adcom GFP-565 GFA-535ii, 545ii, 555ii
    Digital: SimAudio HAD230 DAC, iMac 20in/Amarra,
    Speakers: Paradigm Performa F75, Magnepan .7, Totem Model 1's, ACI Emerald XL, Celestion Si Stands. Totem Dreamcatcher sub
    Analog: Technics SL-J2 w/Pickering 3000D, SimAudio LP5.3 phono pre
    Cable/Wires: Cardas, AudioArt, Shunyata Venom 3

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